On Mon, 5 Aug 2013 05:05:37 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

I have a 2n I use to bushhog a grass field. It has been runing fine for about 3 years. A few weeks ago I started having an intermittenant start problem. I replaced the points and condenser and now it will not start. The old coil was cracked I noticed so I put another coil on it I had. (I also tried a new coil which did not help either). I am pretty sure I put everythign together right, there is a picture in my manual I got from TSC. The gap is .015. (Slight drag with this feeler guage.) The problem is definitely no spark.



This is the front mount distributor with the square coil. I have contenuity with the top post of the coil and the curly spring on the bottom. I am getting 12 volts on the wire to the coil but noticed something. With the distributor on the engine, I have trouble getting any voltage when I check the top terminal of the coil. However, if I take the distributor off the engine, I get the 12 volts. I am assuming I am not getting the voltage when installed becasue the distributor is grounded to the engine. Does this sound right?

I took the distributor off and installed just the coil. I get continutity from the top post of the coil to anything including the points inside the distributor.(regardless if the points are open or closed). I get continuity from the top part of the cap where the other coil terminal rests to the rotor button on the cap. However, with the cap installed I do not get continuity touching that same spot where the other coil terminal rests on the cap to any of the spark plug outlets on the cap, even while spinning the distributor by hand. I assume this is ok becasue the rotor is not supposed to touch the actual cylinder terminals inside the cap.



After putting the new points and condenser on I jecked the static timing as is described in the manual with two rulers. (This is difficult to do by yourself). The best I could tell the tang on the bottom of the distributot is 1/4 inch away from the bolt hole as it should be.



My only guess is there is something drounded on the breaker plate that is not supposed to be or something??? I am not sure how to tell or what I need to look for.



As always I appreciate any help!
Time to troubleshoot.
Disconnect the low tension wire from the distributor. Turn on the
ignition. diconnect the coil wire from the distributor.
Hold the coil wire 1/4" from ground and strike the low tension wire to
ground. Do you get a small spark at the low tension wire and a zap
from the coil wire when you break contact with the Low tension wire?
If so, the problem is with the points, condenser, or connections.

If not, you have a coil problem or a bad connection between the
distributor end of the low tension wire and the battery (ignition
switch, primary wiring, etc)

If you have spark, reconnect the low tension wire, making sure the
insulator on the terminal is correctly assembled and the points and
condenser are properly assembled so they are not permanently grounded.
Tken, with the points open, ground the moveable point with a jumper ot
screw driver and see if you get spark (and spark at the coil wire when
released). If you do, chances are oretty good the points are old and
need burnishing because the tungsten coating is oxidized.

Onother test is to connect a test light from the low tensinn connector
to ground with the ignition turned on. The light should light with the
points open, and go out with them closed. If the light does not go out
either bad points or bad ground. If it does not come on, either bad
condenser or the connections at the low tension terminal (point
connection on the distributor) assembled wrong.. Disconnect the
consenser. If the light goes on and off when the points are opened and
closed, the condenser is shorted.


This should pin down the problem.