Le Blonde 13" lathe approx. 1947 vintage.

The tailstock quill in this lathe is loose. I've been living with it for 15 years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

Even when fully clamped and only 2" extended you can observe the quill jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from 15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

The seller alerted me to this and told me the lathe was probably used for tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

My question: Is there an inexpensive fix for this, or should I simply sell the lathe with the proper disclosures.

Only other gripe is the 500 maximum rpm along with a little vibration in some of the headstock gear settings.

Any advice would be appreciated. I would probably be happier with a smaller lathe with higher speeds.

Ivan Vegvary

Any advice would be appreciated. I would probably be happier with a smaller lathe with higher speeds.

Ivan Vegvary

I have a similar vintage leblond. The bore for the quil on mine is
slit on the back side with a bolt to tighten the quill. You can lock
it in place if needed or adjust the drag. My 10EE has same idea.

I take it you don't have this feature. Can you easily add it?

Of course you could bore it out, add a bushing and then bore again. I
think you could put a boring bar in the spindle, the tailstock in
front of the carriage and push the entire tailstock with it tightened
to just slide.

Karl

On Mon, 24 Jun 2013 23:32:42 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Le Blonde 13" lathe approx. 1947 vintage.

The tailstock quill in this lathe is loose. I've been living with it for 15 years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

Even when fully clamped and only 2" extended you can observe the quill jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from 15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

The seller alerted me to this and told me the lathe was probably used for tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

My question: Is there an inexpensive fix for this, or should I simply sell the lathe with the proper disclosures.

Only other gripe is the 500 maximum rpm along with a little vibration in some of the headstock gear settings.

Any advice would be appreciated. I would probably be happier with a smaller lathe with higher speeds.

Ivan Vegvary



the easy way is Loctite Fixmaster. Depends on where the wear is. If
its the quill..Fixmaster might do you a good job..if its the
tailstock...sleeving might be better.

http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_d...pair_final.pdf

If you know anyone in a plating shop...you might have good luck having
the quill copper plated thick..and then hard chromed.


Gunner

--
""Almost all liberal behavioral tropes track the impotent rage of small
children. Thus, for example, there is also the popular tactic of
repeating some stupid, meaningless phrase a billion times" Arms for
hostages, arms for hostages, arms for hostages, it's just about sex, just
about sex, just about sex, dumb,dumb, money in politics,money in
politics, Enron, Enron, Enron. Nothing repeated with mind-numbing
frequency in all major news outlets will not be believed by some members
of the populace. It is the permanence of evil; you can't stop it." (Ann
Coulter)

On Mon, 24 Jun 2013 23:32:42 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Le Blonde 13" lathe approx. 1947 vintage.

The tailstock quill in this lathe is loose. I've been living with it for 15 years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

Even when fully clamped and only 2" extended you can observe the quill jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from 15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

The seller alerted me to this and told me the lathe was probably used for tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

My question: Is there an inexpensive fix for this, or should I simply sell the lathe with the proper disclosures.

Only other gripe is the 500 maximum rpm along with a little vibration in some of the headstock gear settings.

Any advice would be appreciated. I would probably be happier with a smaller lathe with higher speeds.

Ivan Vegvary

There's Moglice:
http://www.moglice.com/index.php
http://www.moglice.com/handbookpdfs/handbook.pdf


You'd rough bore the tailstock to make enough clearance for the
Moglice, fixture the quill in its proper location, make dams as
required to contain the goo, inject the Moglice of the proper
viscosity, and let it set. The stuff cost $25 - $45 for a 50 - 100ml
kit.

--
Ned Simmons

On Mon, 24 Jun 2013 23:32:42 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:


I would probably be happier with a smaller lathe with higher speeds.

The above line says it all. Why spend time and money on a lathe you
are not happy with.
Remove 333 to reply.
Randy

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 09:30:10 -0400, Ned Simmons
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Jun 2013 23:32:42 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Le Blonde 13" lathe approx. 1947 vintage.

The tailstock quill in this lathe is loose. I've been living with it for 15 years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

Even when fully clamped and only 2" extended you can observe the quill jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from 15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

The seller alerted me to this and told me the lathe was probably used for tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

My question: Is there an inexpensive fix for this, or should I simply sell the lathe with the proper disclosures.

Only other gripe is the 500 maximum rpm along with a little vibration in some of the headstock gear settings.

Any advice would be appreciated. I would probably be happier with a smaller lathe with higher speeds.

Ivan Vegvary

There's Moglice:
http://www.moglice.com/index.php
http://www.moglice.com/handbookpdfs/handbook.pdf


You'd rough bore the tailstock to make enough clearance for the
Moglice, fixture the quill in its proper location, make dams as
required to contain the goo, inject the Moglice of the proper
viscosity, and let it set. The stuff cost $25 - $45 for a 50 - 100ml
kit.

Is Moglice hard enough for that? Compression strength of epoxy
(Moglice) typically is around 5,000 psi. Moglice claims 23,000 psi. I
have no freaking idea how they make that claim, unless they have some
magic filler that takes up all the load. And the side load on those
quills can be pretty high, especially if some klutz let a chuck work
lose while drilling or tapping, and bell-mouthing the bore of the
tailstock.

Anyway, since it's a straight sleeving job on many lathes (I don't
know the LeBlond), I'd press in a piece of brass tube and ream it to
fit, after grininding the quill to make sure it's straight and
uniform.

Or I'd try. Whether I'd succeed is another question. g

--
Ed Huntress

Karl, thanks for your reply. My lathe is identical. Clamping down on the slit on the rear of the quill no longer helps. Still play in the front-to-back direction.
Ivan Vegvary

Thanks Gunner,
Lot's of reading, interesting pdf
Ivan Vegvary

Thanks Ned,
will look at your suggestions.
Ivan Vegvary

Randy, I agree re smaller lathe. Le Blonde is 3 phase, might be hard to sell. (Lucked out, have 3 phase in my home shop)
Ivan Vegvary

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 10:27:10 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 09:30:10 -0400, Ned Simmons
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Jun 2013 23:32:42 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Le Blonde 13" lathe approx. 1947 vintage.

The tailstock quill in this lathe is loose. I've been living with it for 15 years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

Even when fully clamped and only 2" extended you can observe the quill jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from 15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

The seller alerted me to this and told me the lathe was probably used for tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

My question: Is there an inexpensive fix for this, or should I simply sell the lathe with the proper disclosures.

Only other gripe is the 500 maximum rpm along with a little vibration in some of the headstock gear settings.

Any advice would be appreciated. I would probably be happier with a smaller lathe with higher speeds.

Ivan Vegvary

There's Moglice:
http://www.moglice.com/index.php
http://www.moglice.com/handbookpdfs/handbook.pdf


You'd rough bore the tailstock to make enough clearance for the
Moglice, fixture the quill in its proper location, make dams as
required to contain the goo, inject the Moglice of the proper
viscosity, and let it set. The stuff cost $25 - $45 for a 50 - 100ml
kit.

Is Moglice hard enough for that? Compression strength of epoxy
(Moglice) typically is around 5,000 psi. Moglice claims 23,000 psi. I
have no freaking idea how they make that claim, unless they have some
magic filler that takes up all the load. And the side load on those
quills can be pretty high, especially if some klutz let a chuck work
lose while drilling or tapping, and bell-mouthing the bore of the
tailstock.

Anyway, since it's a straight sleeving job on many lathes (I don't
know the LeBlond), I'd press in a piece of brass tube and ream it to
fit, after grininding the quill to make sure it's straight and
uniform.

Or I'd try. Whether I'd succeed is another question. g

Though I can't vouch for the properties, Moglice is heavily filled. It
can be used to rebuild feed nuts, which I imagine is a more demanding
app than a tailstock quill.
http://www.moglice.com/applications/...oll_quill_bore

I did the way bearings on the work drive for a deep hole drill a
couple weeks ago. The work drive weighs 800 pounds, but the bearing
pressure is not too high. I'll let you know in 10 years how it worked
out. g

--
Ned Simmons

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 12:18:40 -0400, Ned Simmons
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 10:27:10 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 09:30:10 -0400, Ned Simmons
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Jun 2013 23:32:42 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Le Blonde 13" lathe approx. 1947 vintage.

The tailstock quill in this lathe is loose. I've been living with it for 15 years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

Even when fully clamped and only 2" extended you can observe the quill jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from 15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

The seller alerted me to this and told me the lathe was probably used for tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

My question: Is there an inexpensive fix for this, or should I simply sell the lathe with the proper disclosures.

Only other gripe is the 500 maximum rpm along with a little vibration in some of the headstock gear settings.

Any advice would be appreciated. I would probably be happier with a smaller lathe with higher speeds.

Ivan Vegvary

There's Moglice:
http://www.moglice.com/index.php
http://www.moglice.com/handbookpdfs/handbook.pdf


You'd rough bore the tailstock to make enough clearance for the
Moglice, fixture the quill in its proper location, make dams as
required to contain the goo, inject the Moglice of the proper
viscosity, and let it set. The stuff cost $25 - $45 for a 50 - 100ml
kit.

Is Moglice hard enough for that? Compression strength of epoxy
(Moglice) typically is around 5,000 psi. Moglice claims 23,000 psi. I
have no freaking idea how they make that claim, unless they have some
magic filler that takes up all the load. And the side load on those
quills can be pretty high, especially if some klutz let a chuck work
lose while drilling or tapping, and bell-mouthing the bore of the
tailstock.

Anyway, since it's a straight sleeving job on many lathes (I don't
know the LeBlond), I'd press in a piece of brass tube and ream it to
fit, after grininding the quill to make sure it's straight and
uniform.

Or I'd try. Whether I'd succeed is another question. g

Though I can't vouch for the properties, Moglice is heavily filled. It
can be used to rebuild feed nuts, which I imagine is a more demanding
app than a tailstock quill.
http://www.moglice.com/applications/...oll_quill_bore

I did the way bearings on the work drive for a deep hole drill a
couple weeks ago. The work drive weighs 800 pounds, but the bearing
pressure is not too high. I'll let you know in 10 years how it worked
out. g

Looking at the material properties, it looks great for way bearing
applications. Those are rarely very high specific loads.

But the load on a tailstock quill probably is a great deal higher.
I've seen the mouth of a quill socket get wrecked by one mistake --
not mine, I'm happy to say, although it scared the heck out of me to
be standing close while a big Jacobs chuck flew out on the floor. g

--
Ed Huntress

Karl Townsend wrote:



Ivan Vegvary

I have a similar vintage leblond. The bore for the quil on mine is
slit on the back side with a bolt to tighten the quill. You can lock
it in place if needed or adjust the drag. My 10EE has same idea.

I take it you don't have this feature. Can you easily add it?

Of course you could bore it out, add a bushing and then bore again. I
think you could put a boring bar in the spindle, the tailstock in
front of the carriage and push the entire tailstock with it tightened
to just slide.
That would be the plan. You could bore it and use a brass shim
rolled into a tube.

Jon

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 12:39:53 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 12:18:40 -0400, Ned Simmons
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 10:27:10 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 09:30:10 -0400, Ned Simmons
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Jun 2013 23:32:42 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Le Blonde 13" lathe approx. 1947 vintage.

The tailstock quill in this lathe is loose. I've been living with it for 15 years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

Even when fully clamped and only 2" extended you can observe the quill jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from 15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

The seller alerted me to this and told me the lathe was probably used for tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

My question: Is there an inexpensive fix for this, or should I simply sell the lathe with the proper disclosures.

Only other gripe is the 500 maximum rpm along with a little vibration in some of the headstock gear settings.

Any advice would be appreciated. I would probably be happier with a smaller lathe with higher speeds.

Ivan Vegvary

There's Moglice:
http://www.moglice.com/index.php
http://www.moglice.com/handbookpdfs/handbook.pdf


You'd rough bore the tailstock to make enough clearance for the
Moglice, fixture the quill in its proper location, make dams as
required to contain the goo, inject the Moglice of the proper
viscosity, and let it set. The stuff cost $25 - $45 for a 50 - 100ml
kit.

Is Moglice hard enough for that? Compression strength of epoxy
(Moglice) typically is around 5,000 psi. Moglice claims 23,000 psi. I
have no freaking idea how they make that claim, unless they have some
magic filler that takes up all the load. And the side load on those
quills can be pretty high, especially if some klutz let a chuck work
lose while drilling or tapping, and bell-mouthing the bore of the
tailstock.

Anyway, since it's a straight sleeving job on many lathes (I don't
know the LeBlond), I'd press in a piece of brass tube and ream it to
fit, after grininding the quill to make sure it's straight and
uniform.

Or I'd try. Whether I'd succeed is another question. g

Though I can't vouch for the properties, Moglice is heavily filled. It
can be used to rebuild feed nuts, which I imagine is a more demanding
app than a tailstock quill.
http://www.moglice.com/applications/...oll_quill_bore

I did the way bearings on the work drive for a deep hole drill a
couple weeks ago. The work drive weighs 800 pounds, but the bearing
pressure is not too high. I'll let you know in 10 years how it worked
out. g

Looking at the material properties, it looks great for way bearing
applications. Those are rarely very high specific loads.

But the load on a tailstock quill probably is a great deal higher.
I've seen the mouth of a quill socket get wrecked by one mistake --
not mine, I'm happy to say, although it scared the heck out of me to
be standing close while a big Jacobs chuck flew out on the floor. g

I can't think of any normal loads on the tailstock that would exceed
perhaps a couple hundred psi on the tailstock bore of a typical lathe.
That's an order of magnitude higher than the pressure on the Moglice I
put on the gun drill drive, but approx 2 orders of magnitude less than
the compressive strength claimed for Moglice.

Estimating the load on the tailstock by looking at the result of an
accident seems a bit like deciding whether the body metal on your car
is thick enough by running into a tree.

--
Ned Simmons

....
I can't think of any normal loads on the tailstock that would exceed
perhaps a couple hundred psi on the tailstock bore of a typical lathe.
That's an order of magnitude higher than the pressure on the Moglice I
put on the gun drill drive, but approx 2 orders of magnitude less than
the compressive strength claimed for Moglice.

Estimating the load on the tailstock by looking at the result of an
accident seems a bit like deciding whether the body metal on your car
is thick enough by running into a tree.

I'm sure you're right for *most* operations. If it were true for all
this lathe has seen, the tailstock wouldn't need a rebuild.

Maybe i just like what I know, but a rebore and sleeve seems easier
anyway.

my 2 cents

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 07:32:37 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Thanks Gunner,
Lot's of reading, interesting pdf
Ivan Vegvary

Jerwelcomen.

Gunner

--
""Almost all liberal behavioral tropes track the impotent rage of small
children. Thus, for example, there is also the popular tactic of
repeating some stupid, meaningless phrase a billion times" Arms for
hostages, arms for hostages, arms for hostages, it's just about sex, just
about sex, just about sex, dumb,dumb, money in politics,money in
politics, Enron, Enron, Enron. Nothing repeated with mind-numbing
frequency in all major news outlets will not be believed by some members
of the populace. It is the permanence of evil; you can't stop it." (Ann
Coulter)

On 6/25/2013 5:45 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jun 2013 23:32:42 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Le Blonde 13" lathe approx. 1947 vintage.

The tailstock quill in this lathe is loose. I've been living with it for 15 years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

Even when fully clamped and only 2" extended you can observe the quill jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from 15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

The seller alerted me to this and told me the lathe was probably used for tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

My question: Is there an inexpensive fix for this, or should I simply sell the lathe with the proper disclosures.

Only other gripe is the 500 maximum rpm along with a little vibration in some of the headstock gear settings.

Any advice would be appreciated. I would probably be happier with a smaller lathe with higher speeds.

Ivan Vegvary



the easy way is Loctite Fixmaster. Depends on where the wear is. If
its the quill..Fixmaster might do you a good job..if its the
tailstock...sleeving might be better.

http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_d...pair_final.pdf

If you know anyone in a plating shop...you might have good luck having
the quill copper plated thick..and then hard chromed.


Gunner


Oh MY, this is a VERY handy PDF! Thanks mucho!

On 6/25/2013 9:30 AM, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jun 2013 23:32:42 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Le Blonde 13" lathe approx. 1947 vintage.

The tailstock quill in this lathe is loose. I've been living with it for 15 years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

Even when fully clamped and only 2" extended you can observe the quill jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from 15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

The seller alerted me to this and told me the lathe was probably used for tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

My question: Is there an inexpensive fix for this, or should I simply sell the lathe with the proper disclosures.

Only other gripe is the 500 maximum rpm along with a little vibration in some of the headstock gear settings.

Any advice would be appreciated. I would probably be happier with a smaller lathe with higher speeds.

Ivan Vegvary

There's Moglice:
http://www.moglice.com/index.php
http://www.moglice.com/handbookpdfs/handbook.pdf


You'd rough bore the tailstock to make enough clearance for the
Moglice, fixture the quill in its proper location, make dams as
required to contain the goo, inject the Moglice of the proper
viscosity, and let it set. The stuff cost $25 - $45 for a 50 - 100ml
kit.



COOL STUFF! This thread has been the most valuable to me in months!
I'll be using Moglice soon! Thanks!

Do you know whether it's the quill and/or the bore that's worn? It will
make a big difference as to the repair. E.g., if it's only the bore,
then Moglice-ing it would work. But if the quill were worn in a taper,
the Moglice would make things worse (it would fill the bore to match the
quill's taper and never move again).

I never repaired a tailstock, so maybe it's always one or the other that
wears, but you still need to know which it is.

Bob

Ned Simmons wrote:



There's Moglice:
http://www.moglice.com/index.php
http://www.moglice.com/handbookpdfs/handbook.pdf


You'd rough bore the tailstock to make enough clearance for the
Moglice, fixture the quill in its proper location, make dams as
required to contain the goo, inject the Moglice of the proper
viscosity, and let it set. The stuff cost $25 - $45 for a 50 - 100ml
kit.

Ugh. Having popped a lathe saddle free off the bed after casting
Moglice on the underside of the bed, I'd be afraid you would
never get the ram out of the tailstock. If there was any wear
in the middle of the ram that reduced the diameter even .001",
you'd be completely hosed for sure. The biggest arbor press
in the world wouldn't free that ram. If you go this route
(and Moglice is REALLY great stuff!) make sure you use an extra,
extra thick layer of mold release on the ram. Actually, what
I'd recommend is to make a substitute ram plug that is a couple
thousandths undersize, cast the Moglice and then line-bore the
Moglice for alignment and fit to the ram. Then, you could
establish near zero clearance, without the nightmare of getting
the real ram stuck in there. The pseudo-ram could be any sort
of mockup, maybe even rolled-up shim stock, that would make it real
easy to peel it off the Moglice.

Jon Elson wrote:

Ned Simmons wrote:

Ugh. Having popped a lathe saddle free off the bed after casting
Moglice on the underside of the bed,

That would be on the underside of the SADDLE, of course!

Jon

"Jon Elson" wrote in message
...
Jon Elson wrote:

Ned Simmons wrote:

Ugh. Having popped a lathe saddle free off the bed after casting
Moglice on the underside of the bed,

That would be on the underside of the SADDLE, of course!

Jon


You're supposed to use a barrier; waxed-paper works pretty well from what I
understand.

Here is a pretty nice paper although I would probably bronze sleeve, bore
and hone if it were me.

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Mogli...n-Handbook.pdf

Bottom line is who cares if a drill wobbles--leave extra stock to
compensate, bore a short while with a single point off of the compound and
then follow ip with a reamer....or just bore the whole dam thing....if
you're doing work between centers, lock the quill, it'll repeat just fine
....

On 6/27/2013 6:27 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
.... and then line-bore the
Moglice for alignment and fit to the ram....

Except you'd need the tail stock to do the line boring. Catch 22! Bob

On Fri, 28 Jun 2013 09:01:52 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

On 6/27/2013 6:27 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
... and then line-bore the
Moglice for alignment and fit to the ram....

Except you'd need the tail stock to do the line boring. Catch 22! Bob

If you want to get tricky, you could set up a steady rest outboard of
the tailstock to hold the tail end of a boring bar. Getting everything
set up right would be a bit of a challenge, but it should work.

Then you have to figure out how you're going to feed the cutter.

I think I'd try rough-boring and then reaming, maybe with a D-bit
reamer -- if time is no object. My tailstock slides along pretty
smoothly if you half-tighten it and set it ahead of the carriage, and
then push it with the carriage. That would probably cost me my
membership in the precision amateur machining association. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

On Fri, 28 Jun 2013 09:01:52 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

On 6/27/2013 6:27 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
... and then line-bore the
Moglice for alignment and fit to the ram....

Except you'd need the tail stock to do the line boring. Catch 22! Bob

Or rig up something out of scrap to hold a center. Doesn't have to
have a spindle or morse taper. Getting it aligned would be tricky,
shims probably. I guess you'd use the saddle to push the tail stock.
Or bolt the tail stock top on the saddle, maybe on its side if too
tall. Alignment would again be fiddly. I'd push it if the lathe had
enough bed length. It's going to take a long floppy boring bar. Light
cuts.

If you get this done, I'll be interested. My tail stock is a little
worn too. Plus I need a line boring setup for some models I want to
build.

Pete Keillor

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:



You're supposed to use a barrier; waxed-paper works pretty well from what
I understand.
I used the recommended spray-on waxy mold release agent
sold by Devitt for use with Moglice, and put 3 layers on.
It still stuck REAL hard, but then the Sheldon saddle is
a huge piece with a lot of surface area contacting the bed.

Jon

Bob Engelhardt wrote:

On 6/27/2013 6:27 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
... and then line-bore the
Moglice for alignment and fit to the ram....

Except you'd need the tail stock to do the line boring. Catch 22! Bob
Yes, it IS a catch 22. You'd probably need to rig a temporary
support, or use a steady rest if you have one for the far end of the
boring bar.

Jon