Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded rod
with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off wheel
in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to change
methods according to demand.


Do you need all 4" to be threaded?

Buy 4" threaded studs and just do the bend?

Best Regards
Tom.
--
http://fija.org/

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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On 1/27/2012 8:38 PM, azotic wrote:
Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.


Do you need all 4" to be threaded?

Buy 4" threaded studs and just do the bend?

Best Regards
Tom.


I assumed it would be a LOT cheaper to use All-thread even with the
added operations.
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing


Tom Gardner wrote:

On 1/27/2012 8:38 PM, azotic wrote:
Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.


Do you need all 4" to be threaded?

Buy 4" threaded studs and just do the bend?

Best Regards
Tom.


I assumed it would be a LOT cheaper to use All-thread even with the
added operations.


I presume you can't use plain 1/4" rod and the non threaded spring clip
nuts that press on and dig in?
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing


"Pete C." wrote:

Tom Gardner wrote:

On 1/27/2012 8:38 PM, azotic wrote:
Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.

Do you need all 4" to be threaded?

Buy 4" threaded studs and just do the bend?

Best Regards
Tom.


I assumed it would be a LOT cheaper to use All-thread even with the
added operations.


I presume you can't use plain 1/4" rod and the non threaded spring clip
nuts that press on and dig in?


Or for that matter use plain rod, put a plain washer on and the
crimp/deform the rod to lock things in place.


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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing


"Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
On 1/27/2012 8:38 PM, azotic wrote:
Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.


Do you need all 4" to be threaded?

Buy 4" threaded studs and just do the bend?

Best Regards
Tom.


I assumed it would be a LOT cheaper to use All-thread even with the added
operations.


Check the thomas register? Maybe a screw machine shop?

All depends on your shops fixed costs and tooling you have available.
Parting on your punch press will be the most cost effective. Use a
Outside Chamfering Mill to clean up the threads, then bend.

Best Regards
Tom.





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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

In smaller quantities we have welded the ends of long pieces of all thread
together so we could run the bundle (10-20) through an automatic feed band
saw for the cutting. You could set up a stop on a power shear but since
you'd most likely have to feed by hand I think the saw would win. For
deburring we did it by hand on a belt sander with something like 80 or 120
grit and just put a 45 degree chamfer about 1/16" wide. This was on 6 mm
rod so about the same as 1/4-20. That's where I think you need the most
improvement over what we did.

-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
...

On 1/27/2012 8:38 PM, azotic wrote:
Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.


Do you need all 4" to be threaded?

Buy 4" threaded studs and just do the bend?

Best Regards
Tom.


I assumed it would be a LOT cheaper to use All-thread even with the
added operations.


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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

So then, this didn't work out: "One of the guys is fairly certain he
knows how to part the rod and still be able to start a nut easily."?

(RCM 6/20/2010, "Accuratly bending threaded rod---SOLVED". Google
groups: http://tinyurl.com/7lluxra)

I have a great memory for the trivial,
Bob
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On Fri, 27 Jan 2012 20:09:14 -0500, Tom Gardner mars@tacks wrote:

I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.

I put a nut on before cutting with a bandsaw, then hit the edges
with the belt sander before removing the nut. Works every time.
Ptting on 2 nuts and cutting between the nuts makes both ends useable.
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On Fri, 27 Jan 2012 21:16:32 -0500, Tom Gardner mars@tacks wrote:

On 1/27/2012 8:38 PM, azotic wrote:
Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.


Do you need all 4" to be threaded?

Buy 4" threaded studs and just do the bend?

Best Regards
Tom.


I assumed it would be a LOT cheaper to use All-thread even with the
added operations.

ANd virtually any cheap allthread will bend 20 degrees, cold, without
cracking.


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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

Can you buy threaded rods of the proper size, in quantity, and only
perform bending? I think that it will be a lot cheaper than cutting
allthread.

i
On 2012-01-28, Tom Gardner mars@tacks wrote:
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.

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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing


"Ignoramus19608" wrote in message
...
Can you buy threaded rods of the proper size, in quantity, and only
perform bending? I think that it will be a lot cheaper than cutting
allthread.

i


Cutting allthread to length with a punch press is very
fast and accurate. Depending on the press and die set
you could crank out a 1000 an hour easily on the right press
with a automatic feeder.

Best Regards
Tom.
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http://fija.org/

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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On Fri, 27 Jan 2012 21:16:32 -0500, Tom Gardner mars@tacks wrote:

On 1/27/2012 8:38 PM, azotic wrote:
Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.


Do you need all 4" to be threaded?

Buy 4" threaded studs and just do the bend?

Best Regards
Tom.


I assumed it would be a LOT cheaper to use All-thread even with the
added operations.


Have the raw bar stock cut to length, then stick it in a lathe with a
die or CNC lathe with threading tool, thread, remove, turn around,
thread the other end.

For CNC, Id recommend an OmniTurn CNC lathe, or for threading..a
Grisholt threading lathe, or even a basic thread roller.

The OmniTurn would be the most expensive, but Id get a commission G

The Grisholt or thread roller can be found on Ebay or a local dealer

When the two ends are threaded, stick it into a bender and voila!

Threading a blank would take very little time. My best guess would be
8-10 seconds for both ends on an OmniTurn but..shrug

Grisholts or thread rollers..even less for a simple thread roller


There are shops that specialize in this sort of part and do many
thousands a day for very little money if you supply the material

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-LATHE-LA...-/130631837524

http://www.ebay.com/itm/THREAD-ROLLE...-/350351280714

While a bowl feeder May..may be set up..its a long part..so a hand feed
thread roller may be best. Dies are available also on Ebay

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 04:44:10 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:

writes:

I put a nut on before cutting with a bandsaw, then hit the edges
with the belt sander before removing the nut. Works every time.
Ptting on 2 nuts and cutting between the nuts makes both ends useable.


FWIW: I've found that cutting screws with a Dremal wheel leaves the threads
clean.


When there's room, I've used a die grinder and 3" cutting wheel. If
the screw is loose, I can always dress the end in nothing flat.

--
The most decisive actions of our life - I mean those that are most
likely to decide the whole course of our future - are, more often
than not, unconsidered.
-- Andre Gide


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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On Fri, 27 Jan 2012 21:52:02 -0500, "Carl Ijames"
wrote:

In smaller quantities we have welded the ends of long pieces of all thread
together so we could run the bundle (10-20) through an automatic feed band
saw for the cutting. You could set up a stop on a power shear but since
you'd most likely have to feed by hand I think the saw would win. For
deburring we did it by hand on a belt sander with something like 80 or 120
grit and just put a 45 degree chamfer about 1/16" wide. This was on 6 mm
rod so about the same as 1/4-20. That's where I think you need the most
improvement over what we did.

-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
m...

On 1/27/2012 8:38 PM, azotic wrote:
Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.


Do you need all 4" to be threaded?

Buy 4" threaded studs and just do the bend?

Best Regards
Tom.


I assumed it would be a LOT cheaper to use All-thread even with the
added operations.

Look for threaded rod cutting dies and machines. There are all sorts
available. I would try to use rolled thread stock instead of cut
thread stock. The rolled threads are much better quality and the stock
bends better without fracturing. Much better. There are also companies
with machines that are just for cutting to length and chamfering round
stock. They can use coiled stock and spit out straight parts really
cheap. If coiled stock is available in the correct diameter, and I bet
it is, then threads could be rolled onto the ends of the 4 inch long
pieces. You could also use a Geometric type die head and cut the
threads yourself on pre cut pieces. I could put 1.5 inches of thread
on each end of a 4 inch long part with a cycle time of less than 15
seconds per part with a die head. Even faster if the thread is rolled.
And I'm just a job shop not set up for doing thousands of parts per
job. In case you are not familiar with die heads they open up to
release the cutters or rollers so the spindle doesn't need to stop or
reverse. As the dies head is cycled off the part a cam is set up to
close the head again. The head can be closed by hand or a cam. The
head can be opened by either stopping forward motion of the head or
with a cam.
ERS
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On 1/27/2012 9:32 PM, Pete C. wrote:

"Pete C." wrote:

Tom Gardner wrote:

On 1/27/2012 8:38 PM, azotic wrote:
Tom Gardner"mars@tacks wrote in message
...
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.

Do you need all 4" to be threaded?

Buy 4" threaded studs and just do the bend?

Best Regards
Tom.

I assumed it would be a LOT cheaper to use All-thread even with the
added operations.


I presume you can't use plain 1/4" rod and the non threaded spring clip
nuts that press on and dig in?


Or for that matter use plain rod, put a plain washer on and the
crimp/deform the rod to lock things in place.


Unfortunately not,the end user needs to be able to easily replace the
wood parts held in place with these fasteners using simple tools.
Otherwise I could glue and air nail it all together like I do with other
products.
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On 1/27/2012 9:51 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
"Tom Gardner"mars@tacks wrote in message
...
On 1/27/2012 8:38 PM, azotic wrote:
Tom Gardner"mars@tacks wrote in message
...
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.

Do you need all 4" to be threaded?

Buy 4" threaded studs and just do the bend?

Best Regards
Tom.


I assumed it would be a LOT cheaper to use All-thread even with the added
operations.


Check the thomas register? Maybe a screw machine shop?

All depends on your shops fixed costs and tooling you have available.
Parting on your punch press will be the most cost effective. Use a
Outside Chamfering Mill to clean up the threads, then bend.

Best Regards
Tom.


I do have a couple of screw machine companies that do other jobs for me
and I do believe that that will be the most cost effective solution when
the quantities are large enough. I need to keep it in-house until the
product takes root.

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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On 1/28/2012 1:34 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 27 Jan 2012 21:52:02 -0500, "Carl Ijames"
wrote:

In smaller quantities we have welded the ends of long pieces of all thread
together so we could run the bundle (10-20) through an automatic feed band
saw for the cutting. You could set up a stop on a power shear but since
you'd most likely have to feed by hand I think the saw would win. For
deburring we did it by hand on a belt sander with something like 80 or 120
grit and just put a 45 degree chamfer about 1/16" wide. This was on 6 mm
rod so about the same as 1/4-20. That's where I think you need the most
improvement over what we did.

-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
...

On 1/27/2012 8:38 PM, azotic wrote:
Tom Gardner"mars@tacks wrote in message
...
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.

Do you need all 4" to be threaded?

Buy 4" threaded studs and just do the bend?

Best Regards
Tom.


I assumed it would be a LOT cheaper to use All-thread even with the
added operations.

Look for threaded rod cutting dies and machines. There are all sorts
available. I would try to use rolled thread stock instead of cut
thread stock. The rolled threads are much better quality and the stock
bends better without fracturing. Much better. There are also companies
with machines that are just for cutting to length and chamfering round
stock. They can use coiled stock and spit out straight parts really
cheap. If coiled stock is available in the correct diameter, and I bet
it is, then threads could be rolled onto the ends of the 4 inch long
pieces. You could also use a Geometric type die head and cut the
threads yourself on pre cut pieces. I could put 1.5 inches of thread
on each end of a 4 inch long part with a cycle time of less than 15
seconds per part with a die head. Even faster if the thread is rolled.
And I'm just a job shop not set up for doing thousands of parts per
job. In case you are not familiar with die heads they open up to
release the cutters or rollers so the spindle doesn't need to stop or
reverse. As the dies head is cycled off the part a cam is set up to
close the head again. The head can be closed by hand or a cam. The
head can be opened by either stopping forward motion of the head or
with a cam.
ERS


Interesting! Thanks.
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing


"Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
On 1/27/2012 9:51 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
"Tom Gardner"mars@tacks wrote in message
...
On 1/27/2012 8:38 PM, azotic wrote:
Tom Gardner"mars@tacks wrote in message
...
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.

Do you need all 4" to be threaded?

Buy 4" threaded studs and just do the bend?

Best Regards
Tom.

I assumed it would be a LOT cheaper to use All-thread even with the
added
operations.


Check the thomas register? Maybe a screw machine shop?

All depends on your shops fixed costs and tooling you have available.
Parting on your punch press will be the most cost effective. Use a
Outside Chamfering Mill to clean up the threads, then bend.

Best Regards
Tom.


I do have a couple of screw machine companies that do other jobs for me
and I do believe that that will be the most cost effective solution when
the quantities are large enough. I need to keep it in-house until the
product takes root.


Thats a tough one. Estimating monthly sales on new products is a bitch.
Been there done that. Sounds like your gonna be stuck with labor
intensive cost until you get enough volume to farm it out.

Best Regards
Tom.
--
http://fija.org/



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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On 1/27/2012 10:54 PM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
So then, this didn't work out: "One of the guys is fairly certain he
knows how to part the rod and still be able to start a nut easily."?

(RCM 6/20/2010, "Accuratly bending threaded rod---SOLVED". Google
groups: http://tinyurl.com/7lluxra)

I have a great memory for the trivial,
Bob


Well, that guy has retired and we have to start with a clean sheet and I
still don't know enough about rod grades and deburring Doing higher
volume production is a LOT easier than starting from the get-go with .
The obvious solution is to farm out the job and throw money at it.

To design and build the die work is expensive and time consuming. This
project has finally come to the front burner so it has passed from the
theoretical to reality. It might be best to resurrect the original idea
but it wasn't mine and I just can't "see" it in my head. Maybe the burr
won't be an issue but it sure would ruin production time if the assembly
operator has issues with getting nuts started.

Chances are that any rod won't crack with only a 20 degree bend but if
there is a failure problem, the buyers will drop a new product like a
hot coal.

That's the trouble with working on a number of things at the same time,
as I get older I find I can't keep as many balls in the air.
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On Friday, January 27, 2012 5:09:14 PM UTC-8, Tom Gardner wrote:
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. ...
-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?


If you make a suitable jig (I'm imagining soft jaws in a vise, clamp
on an aluminum shim, drill/tap transversely and remove the shim
to make 1/4-20 jaws), then the cutoff wheel in a chop saw will do you
fine. A friction-type blade will do, too.

It'll make a sharp edge, though; the easiest way to make that into a
good nut lead-in might be to pre-grind a (ring) notch on the site of
your subsequent parting cut. I sometimes finish on a wire
wheel, but for production... that could get awkward.

Grind the allthread narrower, then cut. Deburr.
Electroplate on a little zinc/zinc-chromate/whatever.
Bending would be the last step.
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 04:44:10 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:

writes:

I put a nut on before cutting with a bandsaw, then hit the edges
with the belt sander before removing the nut. Works every time.
Ptting on 2 nuts and cutting between the nuts makes both ends useable.


FWIW: I've found that cutting screws with a Dremal wheel leaves the threads
clean.

But it gets expensive after a while.
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On 1/27/2012 5:09 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off wheel
in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.

Somewhere, I found a link to a video, possibly Utube, that showed a
machine that formed a "U" clamp rod to used as part of a clamp to hold
onto a steel tube, like a TV antenna mast. The operator placed a rod
with threaded ends into a holder that exactly centered to rod.

Then he pressed the "go" buttons and a round die was used to pull the
rod into a forming die that made a speci
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On 1/28/2012 2:16 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:

I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center.

I do have a couple of screw machine companies that do other jobs for me
and I do believe that that will be the most cost effective solution when
the quantities are large enough. I need to keep it in-house until the
product takes root.


Wire forming companies specialize in this. It may not be worthwhile to
agonize over it until you get a couple of quotes, even for lower quantities.

Kevin Gallimore


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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On 1/27/2012 5:09 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off wheel
in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.

You have had lots of great suggestions, now for mine. I discovered this
video a while back when I was looking for u-bolts to use in mounting a
new ham radio antenna to a steel mast.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xR1tYzCQpk

This is perfect for your need, if you just change the dies and machine
stroke. And use rods that are already threaded on the ends.

Good luck!

I had to make my own u-bolts using 3/8 stainless steel rods. Threaded
ends with a die in the lathe, then used a hand powered metal bender.

Paul
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing


"Paul Drahn" wrote in message
...
On 1/27/2012 5:09 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off wheel
in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.

You have had lots of great suggestions, now for mine. I discovered this
video a while back when I was looking for u-bolts to use in mounting a new
ham radio antenna to a steel mast.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xR1tYzCQpk

This is perfect for your need, if you just change the dies and machine
stroke. And use rods that are already threaded on the ends.

Good luck!

I had to make my own u-bolts using 3/8 stainless steel rods. Threaded ends
with a die in the lathe, then used a hand powered metal bender.

Paul


Thats a cool tool, bookmarked that video.

Best Regards
Tom.
--
http://fija.org/

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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

Using studs sounds good if your size is readily available, ie off
the shelf. If you can buy in 1000's & 10000's, pricing might look
attractive.

Hul

Tom Gardner mars@tacks wrote:
On 1/27/2012 8:38 PM, azotic wrote:
Tom Gardner" mars@tacks wrote in message
...
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off
wheel in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.


Do you need all 4" to be threaded?

Buy 4" threaded studs and just do the bend?

Best Regards
Tom.


I assumed it would be a LOT cheaper to use All-thread even with the
added operations.

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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On 1/28/2012 4:21 PM, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 1/27/2012 5:09 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off wheel
in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.

You have had lots of great suggestions, now for mine. I discovered this
video a while back when I was looking for u-bolts to use in mounting a
new ham radio antenna to a steel mast.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xR1tYzCQpk

This is perfect for your need, if you just change the dies and machine
stroke. And use rods that are already threaded on the ends.

Good luck!

I had to make my own u-bolts using 3/8 stainless steel rods. Threaded
ends with a die in the lathe, then used a hand powered metal bender.

Paul


Cool! It looks almost like the bender we made for conduit handles for
another project! I'm thinking it would be easy to adapt.
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On 1/28/2012 4:01 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 1/28/2012 4:21 PM, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 1/27/2012 5:09 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off wheel
in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?

This is for a new product so I will be ramping up and might have to
change methods according to demand.

You have had lots of great suggestions, now for mine. I discovered this
video a while back when I was looking for u-bolts to use in mounting a
new ham radio antenna to a steel mast.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xR1tYzCQpk

This is perfect for your need, if you just change the dies and machine
stroke. And use rods that are already threaded on the ends.

Good luck!

I had to make my own u-bolts using 3/8 stainless steel rods. Threaded
ends with a die in the lathe, then used a hand powered metal bender.

Paul


Cool! It looks almost like the bender we made for conduit handles for
another project! I'm thinking it would be easy to adapt.

Well, there you go. A little tweek here and a mod there and you'r in the
money!

Paul


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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On 1/28/2012 3:09, Tom Gardner wrote:
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off wheel
in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?


Threaded rod cutter? From Ridgid or others..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTCFYGccce8
Just add a depth limit to get all pieces same length..

Kristian Ukkonen.
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On 1/30/2012 11:14 AM, Kristian Ukkonen wrote:
On 1/28/2012 3:09, Tom Gardner wrote:
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off wheel
in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?


Threaded rod cutter? From Ridgid or others..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTCFYGccce8
Just add a depth limit to get all pieces same length..

Kristian Ukkonen.


That's the ticket! I se a couple on ebay, it could easily be automated
or even but just the dies and set up a press.
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Default 1/4" Threaded rod cutting, bending and deburing

On 01/30/2012 07:45 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 1/30/2012 11:14 AM, Kristian Ukkonen wrote:
On 1/28/2012 3:09, Tom Gardner wrote:
I need to make thousands of fasteners consisting of 1/4" x 4" threaded
rod with a 20 degree bend in the center. The ends will each get a 1/4"
nylon-insert lock nut. I plan on doing the bend on a punch press. I'm
concerned about:

-What grade of All-thread so the rod doesn't crack at the bend?

-How to cut the rod? (parting die on punch press, bandsaw, cut-off wheel
in chop saw, etc)

-How to deburr so the nuts will start?


Threaded rod cutter? From Ridgid or others..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTCFYGccce8
Just add a depth limit to get all pieces same length..

Kristian Ukkonen.


That's the ticket! I se a couple on ebay, it could easily be automated
or even but just the dies and set up a press.


Check that both sides of the cut are clean.
Most cutters will do one side OK, but burr the other side.
You don't want to cut twice, and waste material. Do you?

--
Gary A. Gorgen | "From ideas to PRODUCTS"
| Tunxis Design Inc.
| Cupertino, Ca. 95014
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