Hello,

What is the best way to cut threaded bar? Dribble's hacksaw or the
group favourite angle grinder?

I thought you were supposed to cut it with a nut on and then unscrew
the nut to clean the threads but my attempts yesterday were
inconsistent.

On a screwfix forum there is talk of using a die. Is that really
necessary? How does that work, do you fit it to the good end and screw
it along and off the damaged bottom? Is it worth picking up a tap and
die set for this and other jobs?

Thanks,
Stephen.

Stephen wrote:
Hello,

What is the best way to cut threaded bar? Dribble's hacksaw or the
group favourite angle grinder?

I thought you were supposed to cut it with a nut on and then unscrew
the nut to clean the threads but my attempts yesterday were
inconsistent.

On a screwfix forum there is talk of using a die. Is that really
necessary? How does that work, do you fit it to the good end and screw
it along and off the damaged bottom? Is it worth picking up a tap and
die set for this and other jobs?

Thanks,
Stephen.

I've often cut threaded rod and bolts themselves, just by winding on a
nut first and then taking it off to straighten the thread out. I don't
recall ever not being able to get a nut started again although
occasionally this involves a bit of fiddling about.

Andy C

Stephen formulated the question :
Hello,

What is the best way to cut threaded bar? Dribble's hacksaw or the
group favourite angle grinder?

I thought you were supposed to cut it with a nut on and then unscrew
the nut to clean the threads but my attempts yesterday were
inconsistent.

On a screwfix forum there is talk of using a die. Is that really
necessary? How does that work, do you fit it to the good end and screw
it along and off the damaged bottom? Is it worth picking up a tap and
die set for this and other jobs?

Thanks,
Stephen.

Angle grinder with a cut off blade or saw, makes no difference really.
Then grind around the corner of the cut thread holding the rod at 45
degrees and do it gently, so as not to raise a burr. Nut should then go
straight on with not much difficulty and will go on even easier the
next time. If you must, get a thread file and use that to clean up the
thread before trying the nut.

It is defiantly worth picking up a tap and die set, but not for this
job.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On Sun, 26 Jun 2011 13:42:19 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:


Angle grinder with a cut off blade or saw, makes no difference really.
Then grind around the corner of the cut thread holding the rod at 45
degrees and do it gently, so as not to raise a burr. Nut should then go
straight on with not much difficulty and will go on even easier the
next time.

I think the one thing I didn't do was bevel the end. Perhaps that was
why my results were only 50% successful. Thanks.

It is defiantly worth picking up a tap and die set, but not for this
job.

What jobs do you use them for?

Thanks,
Stephen.

In article ,
Stephen wrote:
On Sun, 26 Jun 2011 13:42:19 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:


Angle grinder with a cut off blade or saw, makes no difference really.
Then grind around the corner of the cut thread holding the rod at 45
degrees and do it gently, so as not to raise a burr. Nut should then go
straight on with not much difficulty and will go on even easier the
next time.

I think the one thing I didn't do was bevel the end. Perhaps that was
why my results were only 50% successful. Thanks.

It makes things easier - but shouldn't have prevented you screwing on a
nut. There must have been other problems at the start of the thread - try
looking at it with a magnifying glass.

It is defiantly worth picking up a tap and die set, but not for this
job.

What jobs do you use them for?

Forming new threads. There are special tools for cleaning up old or
damaged ones.

Thanks,
Stephen.

--
*If a parsley farmer is sued, can they garnish his wages?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Screw on a nut. Cut to length with a hacksaw. File the end square and put
a bevelled edge on it (so you have a slight taper to the start of the
thread). Easiest to do the last two bits with a bench grinder if you have
one. But not difficult with a file.

--
*It's lonely at the top, but you eat better.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 26 Jun 2011 13:20:52 +0100, Stephen wrote:

What is the best way to cut threaded bar? Dribble's hacksaw or the
group favourite angle grinder?

Hacksaw then a file or bench grinder to shape the end to make
starting easier, finally a needle file to clean the threads.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Stephen wrote:

What is the best way to cut threaded bar? Dribble's hacksaw or the
group favourite angle grinder?

Angle grinder IMO. I've had to cut the ends of threaded rod poiking out
from steel plates used to stabilise a rubble wall. There were eight of
these in every room at the rear of the house. With an angle grinder it
took a few seconds for each one and left a clean finish. The rod was 1"
diameter.

For smaller diameters it still works well but it's a good idea if you
have one of those dinky Lidl/Aldi angle grinder holders that turns the
angle grinder into a cut-off tool.

In the past, the long dead past, I used a mechanical belt-driven hacksaw
to do the same job and produced hundreds of lengths of threaded rod per
day as a holiday job to earn beer money.

On Sun, 26 Jun 2011 14:14:22 +0100, (Steve Firth)
wrote:

Stephen wrote:

What is the best way to cut threaded bar? Dribble's hacksaw or the
group favourite angle grinder?

Angle grinder IMO. I've had to cut the ends of threaded rod poiking out
from steel plates used to stabilise a rubble wall. There were eight of
these in every room at the rear of the house. With an angle grinder it
took a few seconds for each one and left a clean finish. The rod was 1"
diameter.

For smaller diameters it still works well but it's a good idea if you
have one of those dinky Lidl/Aldi angle grinder holders that turns the
angle grinder into a cut-off tool.

In the past, the long dead past, I used a mechanical belt-driven hacksaw
to do the same job and produced hundreds of lengths of threaded rod per
day as a holiday job to earn beer money.

I am a big fan of the angle grinder, but for the odd bit of threaded
rod I find Any Capp's approach is pretty good. The odd bit of fiddling
to start the nut is far more convenient than the angle grinder
procedure. [Unless of course it is lying on the workbench with an
appropriate disk, plugged in and you have the goggles handy].


HN

In article ,
H. Neary wrote:
I am a big fan of the angle grinder, but for the odd bit of threaded
rod I find Any Capp's approach is pretty good. The odd bit of fiddling
to start the nut is far more convenient than the angle grinder
procedure. [Unless of course it is lying on the workbench with an
appropriate disk, plugged in and you have the goggles handy].

If you have the space, a bench grinder can be bought pretty cheaply and is
ideal for this sort of thing. And far less 'challenging' to use than an
angle grinder.

--
*Pentium wise, pen and paper foolish *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Wed, 29 Jun 2011 10:20:45 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

If you have the space, a bench grinder can be bought pretty cheaply ...

Think mine was about a tenner, Performance Power, it works. It's very
useful as well, one of those "how did I manage without it" tools.

... and is ideal for this sort of thing.

Shaping the end after cutting with a hacksaw yes but not cutting the
threaded bar in the first place, Shirley?

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article o.uk,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 29 Jun 2011 10:20:45 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

If you have the space, a bench grinder can be bought pretty cheaply ...

Think mine was about a tenner, Performance Power, it works. It's very
useful as well, one of those "how did I manage without it" tools.

... and is ideal for this sort of thing.

Shaping the end after cutting with a hacksaw yes but not cutting the
threaded bar in the first place, Shirley?

Yup. I'd not dream of bothering with an angle grinder to cut a bit of
threaded rod. A hacksaw with a decent blade takes less time than plugging
one in...

--
*Modulation in all things *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.