On 2012-01-21, Ignoramus32441 wrote:
On 2012-01-21, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus32441 wrote:
On 2012-01-20, Steve W. wrote:

[ ... ]

It isn't that hard to change those IF you needed to (I would since the
original owner knows the current combination)
You need the correct change key and the correct directions. Or just pay
a smith to change it.

OK, how much would it cost? Very interesting.

i

Depends on the local market. Around here the usual charge runs about $75.00
If you have the key DIY isn't hard.

Diebold provides service for them.


Thanks. I will definitely consider it.

I am also thinking, what should I do with this safe, in the sense of
bolting it down. How is that properly done. It weighs only about 600
lbs and is in a place with pallet jacks and forklifts. Someone could
just forklift it out of there.

Just to be clear, I am not anticipating storing any high value stuff
in there, but I like to do things the right way, so I want to know how
are safes properly secured.

Now, regarding key: the safe has a key hole in the lock. I do not have
that key, and the safe seems to open and close without the need for
any key. So, what is the purpose of that key? For changing
combination? Is that what you were referring to?

That key keeps you from turning the handle to open it even if
you have the combination. It is really not as secure as the
combination, fairly easy to pick, but it was a belt and suspenders setup.
Perhaps person "N" had the key and person "P" had the combination, so
both had to be present -- unless the handle was kept unlocked, as was
fairly common, and is the status here. You need the key to lock it as
well as to unlock it.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2012-01-21, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2012-01-21, Ignoramus32441 wrote:
On 2012-01-21, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus32441 wrote:
On 2012-01-20, Steve W. wrote:

[ ... ]

It isn't that hard to change those IF you needed to (I would since the
original owner knows the current combination)
You need the correct change key and the correct directions. Or just pay
a smith to change it.

OK, how much would it cost? Very interesting.

i

Depends on the local market. Around here the usual charge runs about $75.00
If you have the key DIY isn't hard.

Diebold provides service for them.


Thanks. I will definitely consider it.

I am also thinking, what should I do with this safe, in the sense of
bolting it down. How is that properly done. It weighs only about 600
lbs and is in a place with pallet jacks and forklifts. Someone could
just forklift it out of there.

Just to be clear, I am not anticipating storing any high value stuff
in there, but I like to do things the right way, so I want to know how
are safes properly secured.

Now, regarding key: the safe has a key hole in the lock. I do not have
that key, and the safe seems to open and close without the need for
any key. So, what is the purpose of that key? For changing
combination? Is that what you were referring to?

That key keeps you from turning the handle to open it even if
you have the combination. It is really not as secure as the
combination, fairly easy to pick, but it was a belt and suspenders setup.
Perhaps person "N" had the key and person "P" had the combination, so
both had to be present -- unless the handle was kept unlocked, as was
fairly common, and is the status here. You need the key to lock it as
well as to unlock it.

Enjoy,
DoN.


I will use this safe mostly for storing new carbide cutters, stuff
that is worth a pretty penny. Thanks for explaining the purpose of the
key. I think that I do not need it for what I do. I practiced
throughout the day today and I think that I am getting a grip on it.

Despite the flimsy outer shell, this is a very secure Class C
safe with a very strong inner shell.

``C-Rating Steel construction with doors at least one inch thick and
walls at least half an inch thick.''


i

On 2012-01-21, Ignoramus32441 wrote:
On 2012-01-21, DoN. Nichols wrote:

[ ... ]

That key keeps you from turning the handle to open it even if
you have the combination. It is really not as secure as the
combination, fairly easy to pick, but it was a belt and suspenders setup.
Perhaps person "N" had the key and person "P" had the combination, so
both had to be present -- unless the handle was kept unlocked, as was
fairly common, and is the status here. You need the key to lock it as
well as to unlock it.

[ ... ]

I will use this safe mostly for storing new carbide cutters, stuff
that is worth a pretty penny. Thanks for explaining the purpose of the
key. I think that I do not need it for what I do. I practiced
throughout the day today and I think that I am getting a grip on it.

O.K. The main reason to have a key (or to remove the core of
the lock) is so someone does not pick the lock closed on you.

Despite the flimsy outer shell, this is a very secure Class C
safe with a very strong inner shell.

``C-Rating Steel construction with doors at least one inch thick and
walls at least half an inch thick.''

Probably made mostly for protecting documents from fire.
(Especially given the provisions for file cabinet drawers inside.)

Later safes were rated to protect documents in a fire for a
certain time, to protect contents from "access by manipulation of the
lock" a much shorter time, and from "forcible entry" where it is very
obvious that someone has broken in) for zero man minutes. This was the
kind of rating on government security file cabinets. Against forcible
entry, the main purpose that the security file cabinet serves is making
it very quickly obvious when something has been stolen.

The thickness of the walls is mostly asbestos in concrete, I
believe. The outer skin of metal, and possibly a similar inner skin is
mostly to keep the concrete/asbestos together.

However, for your purpose, it should be good enough, except that
it will make it *look* like you have something much more valuable in
there, and encourage someone to bring along a safecracker friend. There
is something to be said for making things not look too seriously
protected. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 22:58:05 -0600, Ignoramus32441
wrote:

On 2012-01-21, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2012-01-21, Ignoramus32441 wrote:
On 2012-01-21, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus32441 wrote:
On 2012-01-20, Steve W. wrote:

[ ... ]

It isn't that hard to change those IF you needed to (I would since the
original owner knows the current combination)
You need the correct change key and the correct directions. Or just pay
a smith to change it.

OK, how much would it cost? Very interesting.

i

Depends on the local market. Around here the usual charge runs about $75.00
If you have the key DIY isn't hard.

Diebold provides service for them.


Thanks. I will definitely consider it.

I am also thinking, what should I do with this safe, in the sense of
bolting it down. How is that properly done. It weighs only about 600
lbs and is in a place with pallet jacks and forklifts. Someone could
just forklift it out of there.

Just to be clear, I am not anticipating storing any high value stuff
in there, but I like to do things the right way, so I want to know how
are safes properly secured.

Now, regarding key: the safe has a key hole in the lock. I do not have
that key, and the safe seems to open and close without the need for
any key. So, what is the purpose of that key? For changing
combination? Is that what you were referring to?

That key keeps you from turning the handle to open it even if
you have the combination. It is really not as secure as the
combination, fairly easy to pick, but it was a belt and suspenders setup.
Perhaps person "N" had the key and person "P" had the combination, so
both had to be present -- unless the handle was kept unlocked, as was
fairly common, and is the status here. You need the key to lock it as
well as to unlock it.

Enjoy,
DoN.


I will use this safe mostly for storing new carbide cutters, stuff
that is worth a pretty penny. Thanks for explaining the purpose of the
key. I think that I do not need it for what I do. I practiced
throughout the day today and I think that I am getting a grip on it.

Despite the flimsy outer shell, this is a very secure Class C
safe with a very strong inner shell.

``C-Rating Steel construction with doors at least one inch thick and
walls at least half an inch thick.''


i

About 1 minute with a plasma cutter.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 22:58:05 -0600, Ignoramus32441
wrote:

I will use this safe mostly for storing new carbide cutters, stuff
that is worth a pretty penny. Thanks for explaining the purpose of the
key. I think that I do not need it for what I do. I practiced
throughout the day today and I think that I am getting a grip on it.

Won't that first burglar be surprised? Har!

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807