I got the heaters for my roller project from McMaster-Carr.

Also I picked up a bit of woven fiberglass (neat-resistant) sleeving.

The reason for the sleeving is that the heating rods may need to be
supported along the length, and I didn't know if the nichrome was
surface-conductive or not.

What is the best way to cut the fiberglass sheathing to keep it from
unraveling? I tried sticking it into the flame on the gas kitchen stove
and it burns down a bit that way.... I have an oxy-acetylene torch
around (which of course will do it) but wondered if anyone who worked
with it a lot knows of a better method.

DougC wrote:
I got the heaters for my roller project from McMaster-Carr.

Also I picked up a bit of woven fiberglass (neat-resistant) sleeving.

The reason for the sleeving is that the heating rods may need to be
supported along the length, and I didn't know if the nichrome was
surface-conductive or not.

What is the best way to cut the fiberglass sheathing to keep it from
unraveling? I tried sticking it into the flame on the gas kitchen
stove and it burns down a bit that way.... I have an oxy-acetylene
torch around (which of course will do it) but wondered if anyone who
worked with it a lot knows of a better method.
Which elements did you buy. The ones I'm used to have an outer metal
sheath which is insulated from the internal heating element
and it's advisable to ground the outer sheath in case of a short, rare
but it does happen. For item such as glass annealing ovens this also
saves having to have an isolation switch to turn off the power to the
elements when the door is opened which would be required for safety with
bare wire elements.

On Jul 26, 3:45*pm, DougC wrote:
...
What is the best way to cut the fiberglass sheathing to keep it from
unraveling? I tried sticking it into the flame on the gas kitchen stove
and it burns down a bit that way....

I pasted the sheath of a thermocouple with wood stove cement (sodium
silicate) to keep it from unraveling. It worked until I overheated the
fiberglass and made it brittle.

jsw

On 7/26/2011 3:10 PM, David Billington wrote:

Which elements did you buy. The ones I'm used to have an outer metal
sheath which is insulated from the internal heating element
and it's advisable to ground the outer sheath in case of a short, rare
but it does happen. For item such as glass annealing ovens this also
saves having to have an isolation switch to turn off the power to the
elements when the door is opened which would be required for safety with
bare wire elements.

I got two of these-
part# 3540K36
36" long x .260" dia - 120VAC 750W - 36.45 each

I just poked around on them with a voltmeter and the outside is
isolated. Testing against one end and the sheath = open circuit, while
across both the ends is 19.7 ohms.

I saw the ceramic end caps and just assumed it had to be mounted only by
them.

DougC wrote:
On 7/26/2011 3:10 PM, David Billington wrote:

Which elements did you buy. The ones I'm used to have an outer metal
sheath which is insulated from the internal heating element
and it's advisable to ground the outer sheath in case of a short, rare
but it does happen. For item such as glass annealing ovens this also
saves having to have an isolation switch to turn off the power to the
elements when the door is opened which would be required for safety with
bare wire elements.

I got two of these-
part# 3540K36
36" long x .260" dia - 120VAC 750W - 36.45 each

I just poked around on them with a voltmeter and the outside is
isolated. Testing against one end and the sheath = open circuit, while
across both the ends is 19.7 ohms.

I saw the ceramic end caps and just assumed it had to be mounted only
by them.
I have real trouble loading any details linked on that site as it wants
me to give a user name etc, I did get details recently but can't
currently other than the item being a "tubular bendable immersion
heater" so it sounds the same as what I use in which case the outer
sheath is insulated from the inner heater with MgO IIRC. When I go to
http://www.mcmaster.com and enter a part number it just sits and spins
and is really annoying, it can be tricked into giving the details
sometimes. Maybe it's because I'm in the UK. If they were UK based I
would not do business with a website like that but I suspect that is not
the problem.

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 14:45:04 -0500, DougC
wrote:

I got the heaters for my roller project from McMaster-Carr.

Also I picked up a bit of woven fiberglass (neat-resistant) sleeving.

The reason for the sleeving is that the heating rods may need to be
supported along the length, and I didn't know if the nichrome was
surface-conductive or not.

What is the best way to cut the fiberglass sheathing to keep it from
unraveling? I tried sticking it into the flame on the gas kitchen stove
and it burns down a bit that way.... I have an oxy-acetylene torch
around (which of course will do it) but wondered if anyone who worked
with it a lot knows of a better method.

Are you familiar with Sauereisen cements? I have used it to mount
heating elements in devices.

www.sauereisen.com/product_index/76.pdf

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 22:39:53 -0400, Usual suspect
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 14:45:04 -0500, DougC
wrote:

I got the heaters for my roller project from McMaster-Carr.

Also I picked up a bit of woven fiberglass (neat-resistant) sleeving.

The reason for the sleeving is that the heating rods may need to be
supported along the length, and I didn't know if the nichrome was
surface-conductive or not.

What is the best way to cut the fiberglass sheathing to keep it from
unraveling? I tried sticking it into the flame on the gas kitchen stove
and it burns down a bit that way.... I have an oxy-acetylene torch
around (which of course will do it) but wondered if anyone who worked
with it a lot knows of a better method.

Are you familiar with Sauereisen cements? I have used it to mount
heating elements in devices.

www.sauereisen.com/product_index/76.pdf

I may...may have some quantities of such cements. I closed down a
sintered metals factory a couple years ago, and wound up basiclly
clearing everything out and tossing 90% of it. I did snag some cans of
such cements.

If anyone is interested, Ill dig em out ..assuming Ive not tossed them
in the past month or so while cleaning out Stuff..and will be happy to
ship them to you simply for the shipping costs

Gunner

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

On 7/26/2011 7:19 PM, David Billington wrote:
DougC wrote:
On 7/26/2011 3:10 PM, David Billington wrote:

Which elements did you buy. The ones I'm used to have an outer metal
sheath which is insulated from the internal heating element
and it's advisable to ground the outer sheath in case of a short, rare
but it does happen. For item such as glass annealing ovens this also
saves having to have an isolation switch to turn off the power to the
elements when the door is opened which would be required for safety with
bare wire elements.

I got two of these-
part# 3540K36
36" long x .260" dia - 120VAC 750W - 36.45 each

I just poked around on them with a voltmeter and the outside is
isolated. Testing against one end and the sheath = open circuit, while
across both the ends is 19.7 ohms.

I saw the ceramic end caps and just assumed it had to be mounted only
by them.
I have real trouble loading any details linked on that site as it wants
me to give a user name etc, I did get details recently but can't
currently other than the item being a "tubular bendable immersion
heater" so it sounds the same as what I use in which case the outer
sheath is insulated from the inner heater with MgO IIRC. When I go to
http://www.mcmaster.com and enter a part number it just sits and spins
and is really annoying, it can be tricked into giving the details
sometimes. Maybe it's because I'm in the UK. If they were UK based I
would not do business with a website like that but I suspect that is not
the problem.

The site does require that javascript be enabled. If you had that
blocked, almost nothing there will work.

DougC wrote:
On 7/26/2011 7:19 PM, David Billington wrote:
DougC wrote:
On 7/26/2011 3:10 PM, David Billington wrote:

Which elements did you buy. The ones I'm used to have an outer metal
sheath which is insulated from the internal heating element
and it's advisable to ground the outer sheath in case of a short, rare
but it does happen. For item such as glass annealing ovens this also
saves having to have an isolation switch to turn off the power to the
elements when the door is opened which would be required for safety
with
bare wire elements.

I got two of these-
part# 3540K36
36" long x .260" dia - 120VAC 750W - 36.45 each

I just poked around on them with a voltmeter and the outside is
isolated. Testing against one end and the sheath = open circuit, while
across both the ends is 19.7 ohms.

I saw the ceramic end caps and just assumed it had to be mounted only
by them.
I have real trouble loading any details linked on that site as it wants
me to give a user name etc, I did get details recently but can't
currently other than the item being a "tubular bendable immersion
heater" so it sounds the same as what I use in which case the outer
sheath is insulated from the inner heater with MgO IIRC. When I go to
http://www.mcmaster.com and enter a part number it just sits and spins
and is really annoying, it can be tricked into giving the details
sometimes. Maybe it's because I'm in the UK. If they were UK based I
would not do business with a website like that but I suspect that is not
the problem.

The site does require that javascript be enabled. If you had that
blocked, almost nothing there will work.
I have javascript enabled but if I put your part number in the search
box it goes to the page briefly and then switches to a page requiring me
to log in. Oddly if I search on "immersion heater" I can then go to the
bendable immersion heater page. They look like the ones I'm used to but
worthwhile getting a technical spec from McMaster as their description
is a bit vague. The ones I have are Incoloy sheathed and the details say
they can be brazed IIRC and that the Incoloy sheath is insulated from
the heater wire core.

David Billington wrote:

DougC wrote:
On 7/26/2011 3:10 PM, David Billington wrote:

Which elements did you buy. The ones I'm used to have an outer metal
sheath which is insulated from the internal heating element
and it's advisable to ground the outer sheath in case of a short, rare
but it does happen. For item such as glass annealing ovens this also
saves having to have an isolation switch to turn off the power to the
elements when the door is opened which would be required for safety with
bare wire elements.

I got two of these-
part# 3540K36
36" long x .260" dia - 120VAC 750W - 36.45 each

I just poked around on them with a voltmeter and the outside is
isolated. Testing against one end and the sheath = open circuit, while
across both the ends is 19.7 ohms.

I saw the ceramic end caps and just assumed it had to be mounted only
by them.
I have real trouble loading any details linked on that site as it wants
me to give a user name etc, I did get details recently but can't
currently other than the item being a "tubular bendable immersion
heater" so it sounds the same as what I use in which case the outer
sheath is insulated from the inner heater with MgO IIRC. When I go to
http://www.mcmaster.com and enter a part number it just sits and spins
and is really annoying, it can be tricked into giving the details
sometimes. Maybe it's because I'm in the UK. If they were UK based I
would not do business with a website like that but I suspect that is not
the problem.


No problem here. I used Google Chrome for the browser.


--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

On Jul 27, 12:00*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 22:39:53 -0400, Usual suspect





wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 14:45:04 -0500, DougC
wrote:

I got the heaters for my roller project from McMaster-Carr.

Also I picked up a bit of woven fiberglass (neat-resistant) sleeving.

The reason for the sleeving is that the heating rods may need to be
supported along the length, and I didn't know if the nichrome was
surface-conductive or not.

What is the best way to cut the fiberglass sheathing to keep it from
unraveling? I tried sticking it into the flame on the gas kitchen stove
and it burns down a bit that way.... I have an oxy-acetylene torch
around (which of course will do it) but wondered if anyone who worked
with it a lot knows of a better method.

Are you familiar with Sauereisen cements? I have used it to mount
heating elements in devices.

www.sauereisen.com/product_index/76.pdf

I may...may have some quantities of such cements. I closed down a
sintered metals factory a couple years ago, and wound up basiclly
clearing everything out and tossing 90% of it. I did snag some cans of
such cements.

If anyone is interested, Ill dig em out ..assuming Ive not tossed them
in the past month or so while cleaning out Stuff..and will be happy to
ship them to you simply for the shipping costs

Gunner

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Did you follow proper hazmat procedures or did you just bury the waste
in your backyard in Taft, Ca?

TMT

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 10:24:30 -0700 (PDT), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Jul 27, 12:00*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 22:39:53 -0400, Usual suspect





wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 14:45:04 -0500, DougC
wrote:

I got the heaters for my roller project from McMaster-Carr.

Also I picked up a bit of woven fiberglass (neat-resistant) sleeving.

The reason for the sleeving is that the heating rods may need to be
supported along the length, and I didn't know if the nichrome was
surface-conductive or not.

What is the best way to cut the fiberglass sheathing to keep it from
unraveling? I tried sticking it into the flame on the gas kitchen stove
and it burns down a bit that way.... I have an oxy-acetylene torch
around (which of course will do it) but wondered if anyone who worked
with it a lot knows of a better method.

Are you familiar with Sauereisen cements? I have used it to mount
heating elements in devices.

www.sauereisen.com/product_index/76.pdf

I may...may have some quantities of such cements. I closed down a
sintered metals factory a couple years ago, and wound up basiclly
clearing everything out and tossing 90% of it. I did snag some cans of
such cements.

If anyone is interested, Ill dig em out ..assuming Ive not tossed them
in the past month or so while cleaning out Stuff..and will be happy to
ship them to you simply for the shipping costs

Gunner

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Did you follow proper hazmat procedures or did you just bury the waste
in your backyard in Taft, Ca?

TMT

Hey assclown, do you have anything to contribute that is on-topic?

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 13:36:15 -0500, Benny Fishhole
wrote:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 10:24:30 -0700 (PDT), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Jul 27, 12:00*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 22:39:53 -0400, Usual suspect





wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 14:45:04 -0500, DougC
wrote:

I got the heaters for my roller project from McMaster-Carr.

Also I picked up a bit of woven fiberglass (neat-resistant) sleeving.

The reason for the sleeving is that the heating rods may need to be
supported along the length, and I didn't know if the nichrome was
surface-conductive or not.

What is the best way to cut the fiberglass sheathing to keep it from
unraveling? I tried sticking it into the flame on the gas kitchen stove
and it burns down a bit that way.... I have an oxy-acetylene torch
around (which of course will do it) but wondered if anyone who worked
with it a lot knows of a better method.

Are you familiar with Sauereisen cements? I have used it to mount
heating elements in devices.

www.sauereisen.com/product_index/76.pdf

I may...may have some quantities of such cements. I closed down a
sintered metals factory a couple years ago, and wound up basiclly
clearing everything out and tossing 90% of it. I did snag some cans of
such cements.

If anyone is interested, Ill dig em out ..assuming Ive not tossed them
in the past month or so while cleaning out Stuff..and will be happy to
ship them to you simply for the shipping costs

Gunner

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Did you follow proper hazmat procedures or did you just bury the waste
in your backyard in Taft, Ca?

TMT

Hey assclown, do you have anything to contribute that is on-topic?

Im curious as to what TMTs shop looks like. Can someone advise or ask
him to post pictures of his machinery?

Tell him his credibility depends on showing his machines.

And for the sake of fairness, here are photos of mine

https://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch



Gunner

--
"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry
capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency.
It will be far easier to limit and undo the follies of an
Obama presidency than to restore the necessary common sense
and good judgment to a depraved electorate willing to have
such a man for their? president.. Blaming the prince of the
fools should not blind anyone to the vast confederacy of
fools that made him their prince".