Lewis Hartswick wrote:
Winston wrote:
here in SF Bay Area.
Thanks!

--Winston

Right there is your basic problem. :-)
...lew...

Today again, we had no weather.
That made chores very easy indeed.



--Winston

Lewis Hartswick wrote:
Winston wrote:
They have *weather* in the free world. (Shudder).



--Winston
But they have Earth Quakes in SF. :-)

About five years ago, I was in the front yard doing an oil
change and felt a little temblor underfoot.

My new neighbor and family shot out of their house and stood
in the front yard, obviously shaken .

I looked over and said "That's the reason that long term California
residents will all be victims of the next Big Quake:
We never have the sense to get out of the house."

Luckily they smiled.

--Winston

GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:

(...)

Coleman fuel smells the same to me.

Same stuff.

Unobtainium in my neck of the woods.

Funny, that.

--Winston

Jon Danniken wrote:
Winston wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
Camp stove / lantern fuel might be a viable substitute that would be
better than highway gasoline.

I agree. It's unobtainium here in SF Bay Area.
Thanks!

Try REI, they sell white gas for backpacking stoves.

http://www.rei.com/search?query=white+gas

Thanks Jon!

Store about 10 miles away claims to still stock it.

Nothing in the two stores near me though.

Much appreciated.

--Winston

GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:
On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 09:28:30 -0700,
wrote:

'Varnish Makers and Painter's' naptha is the only way
I've found for removing baked-on grease from metal surfaces:
http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarest...er-618030.aspx


Someone recommended spray on oven cleaner and I tried it recently. It
worked faster than the purple cleaner. Spray it on and start wiping.

Yup. It is on the list.

Thanks!

--Winston

Gunner Asch wrote:

(...)

You cant find lantern fuel at Walmart????

OK I haven't looked there!

Thanks!


--Winston

Ignoramus31161 wrote:
I use oven cleaner to remove baked on grease.

Come to think about it, this is what oven cleaner is supposed to do:
removing baked on grease.

Just do not breathe that stuff.

Yup. It's on the list to try.

Thanks!

--Winston

Tom Gardner wrote:

(...)

Use wire brushes! Cheaper, reusable and better for the environment.

They're too good, Tom.
The porcelain gets all scratched up, even with a light touch.

--Winston

On Jun 8, 8:47*am, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
"Winston" wrote in message

...









PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

(...)

Coleman fuel AKA white gas

Forgive my faux pas.

I didn't mention that I wasn't able to locate this stuff
under any of it's synonyms, either.
White Spirit
Coleman Fuel
White Gas (I remember when that was available at the *gas station*.
Etc etc.

Thanks!

--Winston

I bought some just a few years ago at Home Depot. I'd also try a big paint
store. Have you looked for Coleman Fuel at a chain sporting goods store?
Target has it here.

However, as a solvent, it's pretty close to gasoline.

--
Ed Huntress

Walmart carries Colman gas.
Karl

Ignoramus31161 wrote:

I use oven cleaner to remove baked on grease.

Come to think about it, this is what oven cleaner is supposed to do:
removing baked on grease.

Just do not breathe that stuff.

And use heavy-duty elbow-length rubber gloves. The stuff is caustic,
and will burn holes in your skin.

Cheers!
Rich

On Jun 8, 11:57*pm, "Tom Gardner" wrote:


Use wire brushes! *Cheaper, reusable and better for the environment.

I thought your recommendation was use wire brush once and then throw
it away and buy a new one.

Dan

On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 19:39:44 -0600, Lewis Hartswick
wrote:

Winston wrote:
here in SF Bay Area.
Thanks!

--Winston

Right there is your basic problem. :-)

That's right. He was bent over and Californicated by the majority,
tree-huggin', ecoterrorist Dems.

--
Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects.
--anon

On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 20:13:43 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 16:36:14 -0700,
wrote:

Rich Grise wrote:
Winston wrote:

'Varnish Makers and Painter's' naptha is the only way
I've found for removing baked-on grease from metal surfaces:

http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarest...er-618030.aspx

It's disappeared from the shelves at all the hardware stores in
my area. Some now carry a 'substitute' product in gallon cans,
but I don't want to spend over 20 bucks and then have to drive
it to Hazmat Disposal if it works as well as do most
'substitutes'.

What's a practical alternative? Gasoline?

Ronsonol or Zippo lighter fluid. It's almost pure naphtha - it will
even get gum out of hair.

It's great stuff.

I advise ya'all to stock up before you get hit with the
same wave of regulation.

Holy ****, Batman! $41 a QUART?
http://www.nextag.com/coleman-fuel/compare-html
Or $48 a gallon from Coleman.

Heh!

That site shows *me* exactly zero citations for
the actual fuel itself. Plenty lanterns and stoves
but no fuel. Interesting, no?

There were a total of two listings for the fuel. Google did the same
thing to me. It showed me everything built by Coleman or fueled by
Coleman fuel.

Hey, the VERY FIRST LISTING is a gallon of Coleman Fuel @ $48.
It resolves to Amazon. http://goo.gl/Jkz0k

--
Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects.
--anon

On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 20:16:33 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 17:49:46 -0700,
wrote:

(...)

Heh! My dad thought gasoline was the cat's pajamas for
cleaning stuff (while smoking).

Amazing.

He was damned lucky. 3 in a week in LV: http://goo.gl/uRuJc

OUCH!

MEGA OUCH! doesn't even begin to touch it. Burns are something every
living thing wants to avoid every second of their lives.

--
Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects.
--anon

On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 20:15:00 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Pete C. wrote:

88F and 46% here now at 7:48pm, 14 MPH breeze, hammock weather

Yessir.

14mph is a hurricane, not a breeze, boys.

--
Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects.
--anon

Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)

Hey, the VERY FIRST LISTING is a gallon of Coleman Fuel @ $48.
It resolves to Amazon. http://goo.gl/Jkz0k

Overpriced fuel from a criminal organization,
It just gets better and better!

--
Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects.
--anon

Have you ever had an object fall off a workbench and bounce
sarcastically? I have. A 'sarcastic' bounce is the same
as a regular bounce, except it lasts longer and is somehow
louder.

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 20:16:33 -0700,
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 17:49:46 -0700,
wrote:

(...)

Heh! My dad thought gasoline was the cat's pajamas for
cleaning stuff (while smoking).

Amazing.

He was damned lucky. 3 in a week in LV: http://goo.gl/uRuJc

OUCH!

MEGA OUCH! doesn't even begin to touch it. Burns are something every
living thing wants to avoid every second of their lives.

Yup. I replied in another post (about electrical flash-over), that
there are some accidental injuries where survival is not necessarily
the best option.

--Winston

wrote:

(...)

Walmart carries Colman gas.
Karl

Not mine!

http://www.walmart.com/search/search...constrai nt=0

Thanks anyway, Karl.

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2011 23:57:21 -0400, "Tom
wrote:

(...)

Use wire brushes! Cheaper, reusable and better for the environment.

And go _green_! Buy only brushes made in the USA.
Why not try Ohio Brush for your next set, Winnie?

Jeeze, Larry.

Even Tawm pointed out the spammy nature of those sentiments.

I tried wire brushes early on. Even a fine brush run lightly tends to scratch
the heck out of the surface, which gives subsequent grease a better grip.
Wire brushes are great! But not for this.

--Winston

Pete C. wrote:

(...)

Point me to their online store where I can order their products...
(hint)

Online stores are *so* 2010.

Tawm has a Turing AI that accepts orders in spoken or printed English:

(216) 791-3265

FAX: (216) 791-6615

E-mail:


--Winston

On Thu, 09 Jun 2011 09:02:48 -0700, Winston
wrote:

wrote:

(...)

Walmart carries Colman gas.
Karl

Not mine!

http://www.walmart.com/search/search...constrai nt=0

Thanks anyway, Karl.

--Winston

Try the Instore search. Your search above only covers online sales. No
one ships such fuels

Gunner

"As physicists now know, there is some nonzero probability that any object will,
through quantum effects, tunnel from the workbench in your shop to Floyds Knobs,
Indiana (unless your shop is already in Indiana, in which case the object will
tunnel to Trotters, North Dakota).

The smaller mass of the object, the higher the probability.
Therefore, disassembled parts, particularly small ones,
of machines disappear much faster than assembled machines."
Greg Dermer: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 06/08/2011 12:37 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message
...
Ed Huntress wrote:

(...)


FWIW, as a purple cleaner, oven cleaner, and gasoline user, I'd try them in
that order, unless you don't mind the gasoline fumes, in which case that
would be second.

I mix my own oven cleaner for cleaning my charcoal grill but it's a bugger
to get straight lye these days. The only over-the-counter retail source I've
seen identified by others is Roebic Crystal Drain Cleaner, which I buy from
Lowe's at $11.00 for two poundsouch!! It's now $1.98 for two pounds
online, under different names, but then I pay $10 shipping. d8-(

I do buy 20 pounds or so at a time online once in a while. You want 100%
sodium hydroxide crystals or pellets; mix 20% with water by weight; dump in
some diatomaceous earth to make it stick a little to the grill. You can use
potassium hydroxide but it's more expensive.

Mix 40% for cleaning drains, and stand back...At 40%, it's like thin syrup.


What do you think of this "stuff" for cleaning the grunge out of a
two-stroke expansion chamber? Castor oil is great for bearing life, but
kinda messy in the exhaust... thanks for any suggestions.

bill

"Bill Martin" wrote in message
...
On 06/08/2011 12:37 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message
...
Ed Huntress wrote:

(...)


FWIW, as a purple cleaner, oven cleaner, and gasoline user, I'd try them
in
that order, unless you don't mind the gasoline fumes, in which case that
would be second.

I mix my own oven cleaner for cleaning my charcoal grill but it's a
bugger
to get straight lye these days. The only over-the-counter retail source
I've
seen identified by others is Roebic Crystal Drain Cleaner, which I buy
from
Lowe's at $11.00 for two poundsouch!! It's now $1.98 for two pounds
online, under different names, but then I pay $10 shipping. d8-(

I do buy 20 pounds or so at a time online once in a while. You want 100%
sodium hydroxide crystals or pellets; mix 20% with water by weight; dump
in
some diatomaceous earth to make it stick a little to the grill. You can
use
potassium hydroxide but it's more expensive.

Mix 40% for cleaning drains, and stand back...At 40%, it's like thin
syrup.


What do you think of this "stuff" for cleaning the grunge out of a
two-stroke expansion chamber? Castor oil is great for bearing life, but
kinda messy in the exhaust... thanks for any suggestions.

I doubt if it would do much, Bill. This is straight lye, with goop in it to
keep it from sliding off of surfaces. It will saponify fats and oils, and it
will attack some polymers and proteins (like the ones in your body cells),
but it won't touch carbon.

If the problem is partially-burned castor oil with some carbon mixed in, it
might work. But, chemically, it's no different from "heavy duty" version of
Easy-Off oven cleaner. You might try that first. It's less hassle for small
projects.

I've never had much luck finding a chemical way to get carbon out of an
engine. There supposedly is some treatment but I can't remember what it is,
nor have I tried it. When I did it, I used scrapers. Ugh.

--
Ed Huntress



bill

"Bill Martin" wrote in message
...
On 06/08/2011 12:37 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message
...
Ed Huntress wrote:

(...)


FWIW, as a purple cleaner, oven cleaner, and gasoline user, I'd try them
in
that order, unless you don't mind the gasoline fumes, in which case that
would be second.

I mix my own oven cleaner for cleaning my charcoal grill but it's a
bugger
to get straight lye these days. The only over-the-counter retail source
I've
seen identified by others is Roebic Crystal Drain Cleaner, which I buy
from
Lowe's at $11.00 for two poundsouch!! It's now $1.98 for two pounds
online, under different names, but then I pay $10 shipping. d8-(

I do buy 20 pounds or so at a time online once in a while. You want 100%
sodium hydroxide crystals or pellets; mix 20% with water by weight; dump
in
some diatomaceous earth to make it stick a little to the grill. You can
use
potassium hydroxide but it's more expensive.

Mix 40% for cleaning drains, and stand back...At 40%, it's like thin
syrup.


What do you think of this "stuff" for cleaning the grunge out of a
two-stroke expansion chamber? Castor oil is great for bearing life, but
kinda messy in the exhaust... thanks for any suggestions.

bill

BTW, don't use this stuff (or Easy-Off) on aluminum or galvanized steel. It
eats aluminum and zinc for lunch. It's no problem on other platings, but
chrome is porous, and it will get through it and attack the copper plating
underneath, bubbling off the chrome, if you leave it on too long.

That's the voice of sad experience. d8-(

--
Ed Huntress

On 06/09/2011 10:51 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
"Bill wrote in message
...
On 06/08/2011 12:37 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message
...
Ed Huntress wrote:


What do you think of this "stuff" for cleaning the grunge out of a
two-stroke expansion chamber? Castor oil is great for bearing life, but
kinda messy in the exhaust... thanks for any suggestions.

I doubt if it would do much, Bill. This is straight lye, with goop in it to
keep it from sliding off of surfaces. It will saponify fats and oils, and it
will attack some polymers and proteins (like the ones in your body cells),
but it won't touch carbon.

If the problem is partially-burned castor oil with some carbon mixed in, it
might work. But, chemically, it's no different from "heavy duty" version of
Easy-Off oven cleaner. You might try that first. It's less hassle for small
projects.

I've never had much luck finding a chemical way to get carbon out of an
engine. There supposedly is some treatment but I can't remember what it is,
nor have I tried it. When I did it, I used scrapers. Ugh.

Tried the oven cleaner already, not so great. Sandblast would be
interesting, but the shape of the pipe makes it impossible to really get
inside with a normal nozzle. I'm actually desperate enough to be
thinking of making a high velocity water jet with sand entrainment to
try and scrape the gunk off "around the corner" of the chamber. Right
now, I can get a reasonable cleanout only if I'm willing to spend hours
fussing with it, and getting pretty grubby in the process. Must be a
better way...

bill

"Bill Martin" wrote in message
...
On 06/09/2011 10:51 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
"Bill wrote in message
...
On 06/08/2011 12:37 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message
...
Ed Huntress wrote:


What do you think of this "stuff" for cleaning the grunge out of a
two-stroke expansion chamber? Castor oil is great for bearing life, but
kinda messy in the exhaust... thanks for any suggestions.

I doubt if it would do much, Bill. This is straight lye, with goop in it
to
keep it from sliding off of surfaces. It will saponify fats and oils, and
it
will attack some polymers and proteins (like the ones in your body
cells),
but it won't touch carbon.

If the problem is partially-burned castor oil with some carbon mixed in,
it
might work. But, chemically, it's no different from "heavy duty" version
of
Easy-Off oven cleaner. You might try that first. It's less hassle for
small
projects.

I've never had much luck finding a chemical way to get carbon out of an
engine. There supposedly is some treatment but I can't remember what it
is,
nor have I tried it. When I did it, I used scrapers. Ugh.

Tried the oven cleaner already, not so great. Sandblast would be
interesting, but the shape of the pipe makes it impossible to really get
inside with a normal nozzle. I'm actually desperate enough to be thinking
of making a high velocity water jet with sand entrainment to try and
scrape the gunk off "around the corner" of the chamber. Right now, I can
get a reasonable cleanout only if I'm willing to spend hours fussing with
it, and getting pretty grubby in the process. Must be a better way...

bill

Yeah, well, good luck. If you find something that works, let us know. I
don't have to de-coke old British engine cylinder heads anymore, but it may
be useful for something. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress wrote:

"Bill Martin" wrote in message
...
On 06/09/2011 10:51 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
"Bill wrote in message
...
On 06/08/2011 12:37 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message
...
Ed Huntress wrote:


What do you think of this "stuff" for cleaning the grunge out of a
two-stroke expansion chamber? Castor oil is great for bearing life, but
kinda messy in the exhaust... thanks for any suggestions.

I doubt if it would do much, Bill. This is straight lye, with goop in it
to
keep it from sliding off of surfaces. It will saponify fats and oils, and
it
will attack some polymers and proteins (like the ones in your body
cells),
but it won't touch carbon.

If the problem is partially-burned castor oil with some carbon mixed in,
it
might work. But, chemically, it's no different from "heavy duty" version
of
Easy-Off oven cleaner. You might try that first. It's less hassle for
small
projects.

I've never had much luck finding a chemical way to get carbon out of an
engine. There supposedly is some treatment but I can't remember what it
is,
nor have I tried it. When I did it, I used scrapers. Ugh.

Tried the oven cleaner already, not so great. Sandblast would be
interesting, but the shape of the pipe makes it impossible to really get
inside with a normal nozzle. I'm actually desperate enough to be thinking
of making a high velocity water jet with sand entrainment to try and
scrape the gunk off "around the corner" of the chamber. Right now, I can
get a reasonable cleanout only if I'm willing to spend hours fussing with
it, and getting pretty grubby in the process. Must be a better way...

bill

Yeah, well, good luck. If you find something that works, let us know. I
don't have to de-coke old British engine cylinder heads anymore, but it may
be useful for something. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

"Extrude-hone" comes to mind, forcing an abrasive paste/slury through
the inaccessible passages. Perhaps that will spark some DIY ideas...

On 6/9/2011 1:19 PM, Bill Martin wrote:

What do you think of this "stuff" for cleaning the grunge out of a
two-stroke expansion chamber? Castor oil is great for bearing life, but
kinda messy in the exhaust... thanks for any suggestions.

bill


Alkaline degreaser will loosen/remove carbon deposits.

I used to soak Quincy 2-stage air compressor heads in it at a previous
job, to remove the coked oil & crud from the internal passages before
rebuilding & it worked very very well & even left the paint on them.

MikeB

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Ed Huntress wrote:

"Bill Martin" wrote in message
...
On 06/09/2011 10:51 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
"Bill wrote in message
...
On 06/08/2011 12:37 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message
...
Ed Huntress wrote:


What do you think of this "stuff" for cleaning the grunge out of a
two-stroke expansion chamber? Castor oil is great for bearing life,
but
kinda messy in the exhaust... thanks for any suggestions.

I doubt if it would do much, Bill. This is straight lye, with goop in
it
to
keep it from sliding off of surfaces. It will saponify fats and oils,
and
it
will attack some polymers and proteins (like the ones in your body
cells),
but it won't touch carbon.

If the problem is partially-burned castor oil with some carbon mixed
in,
it
might work. But, chemically, it's no different from "heavy duty"
version
of
Easy-Off oven cleaner. You might try that first. It's less hassle for
small
projects.

I've never had much luck finding a chemical way to get carbon out of
an
engine. There supposedly is some treatment but I can't remember what
it
is,
nor have I tried it. When I did it, I used scrapers. Ugh.

Tried the oven cleaner already, not so great. Sandblast would be
interesting, but the shape of the pipe makes it impossible to really
get
inside with a normal nozzle. I'm actually desperate enough to be
thinking
of making a high velocity water jet with sand entrainment to try and
scrape the gunk off "around the corner" of the chamber. Right now, I
can
get a reasonable cleanout only if I'm willing to spend hours fussing
with
it, and getting pretty grubby in the process. Must be a better way...

bill

Yeah, well, good luck. If you find something that works, let us know. I
don't have to de-coke old British engine cylinder heads anymore, but it
may
be useful for something. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

"Extrude-hone" comes to mind, forcing an abrasive paste/slury through
the inaccessible passages. Perhaps that will spark some DIY ideas...

It's a great product, but you'd really have to apply some imagination to use
the principle for something like this.

Maybe someone with the required imagination will get involved. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 19:52:46 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Stormin Mormon wrote:

I'd be thinking kerosene, instead of gasoline. Kero
evaporates more slowly, and much less flammable. Sorry you
aren't finding naptha as camp stove fuel. I'd be tempted to
buy a gallon of camp stove fuel and try it out, as
degreaser. Might be just relabelled.

Purple degreaser can be found at HVAC / R supply houses,
under brand names like Alkli Foam, or Nu Brite. Hydroxide
and some soap. Usual precautions, gloves, safety goggles,
etc. If it gets on skin, it turns oil to soap, makes the
skin slippery. A splash of diluted vinegar makes your skin
feel normal again.

I get the Zep brand purple degreaser in 5 gal pails at 'Depot. Actually,
the last time I needed some specialty Zep product it seems 'Depot
couldn't get it and I ended up buying it direct from Zep and picking it
up at a Zep facility not too far away to save shipping costs.

I use the Zep Heavy Duty version (gray bottle). I have not found
anything that works better.

If I want things *really* clean I do a two stage process:
1) Varsol to get the worst of it
2) Zep followed by successive hot water rinses.

Usually after this the piece will pass the Waterbreak test.
Word of caution - if used on steel make the final rinse with distilled
water. Delays the onset of rusting.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

I can get at Walmart, Kmart, and sporting goods stores. None
of those near you?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Winston" wrote in message
...
GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:

(...)

Coleman fuel smells the same to me.

Same stuff.

Unobtainium in my neck of the woods.

Funny, that.

--Winston

wrote:

(...)

If I want things *really* clean I do a two stage process:
1) Varsol to get the worst of it

Gaaah! Another naptha synonym:
"Varsol™ fluids are traditional solvents that are also known as
mineral spirits or white spirits."


Thanks Michael

--Winston

"Winston" wrote in message
...
wrote:

(...)

If I want things *really* clean I do a two stage process:
1) Varsol to get the worst of it

Gaaah! Another naptha synonym:
"Varsol™ fluids are traditional solvents that are also known as
mineral spirits or white spirits."


Thanks Michael

--Winston

g You're really getting caught up in an overlapping lexicon. Varsol is a
brand name, but it also became a sort of generic name for unbranded Stoddard
solvent and similar types of hydrocarbon solvent. It was standard-issue
paint solvent and cleaner, moderately slow-drying. It also is 50% of WD-40.
An old-time hardware store in my town, now deceased, sold it from a tap. You
brought your own can.

Mineral spirits, white spirit, Stoddard solvent, etc., are pretty much the
same, unless you're a professional painter and are tuned into slight
differences in drying speed. All of these closely-related hydrocarbons have
similar characteristics. They're aliphatic hydrocarbons (relatively safe),
sometimes with some aromatic hydrocarbons (very unsafe) in low percentages
(making them safe enough for home use, more or less).

Naptha sold for painting use, known as Naptha VM&P ("varnish makers and
painters), is not a precise product. Like the generic "mineral spirits," it
covers a pretty broad range of volatility, and it may have small percentages
of phenol and other dangerous crap in it. I think it's a bit more volatile
than the usual run of "mineral spirits," but that's based on limited
experience and long ago.

There is more, but my knowledge of chemistry taps out right here. I don't
want to lead you astray. For your cleaning use, it seems unlikely that
you'll notice any difference among these products, but maybe you will.

If you want a handy thing to try, give WD-40 a shot. As I said, it's 50%
solvent that's in the Stoddard-solvent class, plus 15% mineral oil of some
type, and the balance is propellant. If naptha works, WD-40 should work.
Maybe. g

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress wrote:

(...)

g You're really getting caught up in an overlapping lexicon. Varsol is a
brand name, but it also became a sort of generic name for unbranded Stoddard
solvent and similar types of hydrocarbon solvent. It was standard-issue
paint solvent and cleaner, moderately slow-drying. It also is 50% of WD-40.
An old-time hardware store in my town, now deceased, sold it from a tap. You
brought your own can.

I remember the local _Star and Bar_ gas station had a separate pump
for 'White Gas'!

Mineral spirits, white spirit, Stoddard solvent, etc., are pretty much the
same, unless you're a professional painter and are tuned into slight
differences in drying speed. All of these closely-related hydrocarbons have
similar characteristics. They're aliphatic hydrocarbons (relatively safe),
sometimes with some aromatic hydrocarbons (very unsafe) in low percentages
(making them safe enough for home use, more or less).

VM&P was the only stuff I found that would remove the rubber 'spots'
left on my hardwood floor by 'throw rug' non-skid 'backing'.
Left the floor shiny, and nice looking, it did.
I used *lots* of ventilation.

Naptha sold for painting use, known as Naptha VM&P ("varnish makers and
painters), is not a precise product. Like the generic "mineral spirits," it
covers a pretty broad range of volatility, and it may have small percentages
of phenol and other dangerous crap in it. I think it's a bit more volatile
than the usual run of "mineral spirits," but that's based on limited
experience and long ago.

There is more, but my knowledge of chemistry taps out right here. I don't
want to lead you astray. For your cleaning use, it seems unlikely that
you'll notice any difference among these products, but maybe you will.

Doubtless the VM&P I've used over the years has been a Dukes Mixture
of leftovers from higher quality product. I never noticed, though.
It always worked a treat.

If you want a handy thing to try, give WD-40 a shot. As I said, it's 50%
solvent that's in the Stoddard-solvent class, plus 15% mineral oil of some
type, and the balance is propellant. If naptha works, WD-40 should work.
Maybe.g

In my misspent yout, I soaked the table of my sheet metal shear with
WD-40 as a rust preventative. Oops. After the volatiles totally
disappeared, I was left with a mottled waxy surface that *still* allowed
rust spots to develop. I cleaned it off with some naptha and then,
following an old trick gleaned from an ancient _Mechanix Illustrated_,
I 'whooshed' on some dry graphite and rubbed it in with a cloth towel.
The surface remains pristine and rather nice looking.

--Winston

Winston wrote:
Pete C. wrote:

(...)

I get the Zep brand purple degreaser in 5 gal pails at 'Depot. Actually,
the last time I needed some specialty Zep product it seems 'Depot
couldn't get it and I ended up buying it direct from Zep and picking it
up at a Zep facility not too far away to save shipping costs.

Prompted by this, I tried 'Zep green':
http://www.amazon.com/Zep-32Oz-Clean.../dp/B003K1ZWG8

It works nearly as well as naptha!

I'm still going to check out the others but this is a very
cool discovery.

This morning, I lit the burner and, in a bit, I was greeted
by the musty aroma of burning Zep. Ooops.
I want my naptha back!



--Winston -- It's clean, though.

On Thu, 09 Jun 2011 08:49:40 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)

Hey, the VERY FIRST LISTING is a gallon of Coleman Fuel @ $48.
It resolves to Amazon. http://goo.gl/Jkz0k

Overpriced fuel from a criminal organization,
It just gets better and better!

Who and why? Coleman or Amazon? Cite?


--
Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects.
--anon

Have you ever had an object fall off a workbench and bounce
sarcastically? I have. A 'sarcastic' bounce is the same
as a regular bounce, except it lasts longer and is somehow
louder.

That sounds like good old Christian Guilt. g

--
Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects.
--anon

On Thu, 09 Jun 2011 09:09:23 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2011 23:57:21 -0400, "Tom
wrote:

(...)

Use wire brushes! Cheaper, reusable and better for the environment.

And go _green_! Buy only brushes made in the USA.
Why not try Ohio Brush for your next set, Winnie?

Jeeze, Larry.

Even Tawm pointed out the spammy nature of those sentiments.

Who cares? I'm just waiting for my fat check.


I tried wire brushes early on. Even a fine brush run lightly tends to scratch
the heck out of the surface, which gives subsequent grease a better grip.
Wire brushes are great! But not for this.

Then you asked the wrong question and didn't give us guessers enough
info to go on. That's shameful, sir.

--
Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects.
--anon

wrote:

On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 19:52:46 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Stormin Mormon wrote:

I'd be thinking kerosene, instead of gasoline. Kero
evaporates more slowly, and much less flammable. Sorry you
aren't finding naptha as camp stove fuel. I'd be tempted to
buy a gallon of camp stove fuel and try it out, as
degreaser. Might be just relabelled.

Purple degreaser can be found at HVAC / R supply houses,
under brand names like Alkli Foam, or Nu Brite. Hydroxide
and some soap. Usual precautions, gloves, safety goggles,
etc. If it gets on skin, it turns oil to soap, makes the
skin slippery. A splash of diluted vinegar makes your skin
feel normal again.

I get the Zep brand purple degreaser in 5 gal pails at 'Depot. Actually,
the last time I needed some specialty Zep product it seems 'Depot
couldn't get it and I ended up buying it direct from Zep and picking it
up at a Zep facility not too far away to save shipping costs.

I use the Zep Heavy Duty version (gray bottle). I have not found
anything that works better.

If I want things *really* clean I do a two stage process:
1) Varsol to get the worst of it
2) Zep followed by successive hot water rinses.

Usually after this the piece will pass the Waterbreak test.
Word of caution - if used on steel make the final rinse with distilled
water. Delays the onset of rusting.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Oddly enough, the specialty Zep product I got was their Anti-Rust (5gal)
that I use in the water table of my small CNC plasma cutter.

On Thu, 09 Jun 2011 09:12:38 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Pete C. wrote:

(...)

Point me to their online store where I can order their products...
(hint)

Online stores are *so* 2010.

Tawm has a Turing AI that accepts orders in spoken or printed English:

(216) 791-3265

FAX: (216) 791-6615

E-mail:


Minimum order: 1/2 a brush or $4,000, whichever is greater.

--
Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects.
--anon

On Thu, 09 Jun 2011 10:19:24 -0700, Bill Martin
wrote:

On 06/08/2011 12:37 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message
...
Ed Huntress wrote:

(...)


FWIW, as a purple cleaner, oven cleaner, and gasoline user, I'd try them in
that order, unless you don't mind the gasoline fumes, in which case that
would be second.

I mix my own oven cleaner for cleaning my charcoal grill but it's a bugger
to get straight lye these days. The only over-the-counter retail source I've
seen identified by others is Roebic Crystal Drain Cleaner, which I buy from
Lowe's at $11.00 for two poundsouch!! It's now $1.98 for two pounds
online, under different names, but then I pay $10 shipping. d8-(

I do buy 20 pounds or so at a time online once in a while. You want 100%
sodium hydroxide crystals or pellets; mix 20% with water by weight; dump in
some diatomaceous earth to make it stick a little to the grill. You can use
potassium hydroxide but it's more expensive.

Mix 40% for cleaning drains, and stand back...At 40%, it's like thin syrup.


What do you think of this "stuff" for cleaning the grunge out of a
two-stroke expansion chamber? Castor oil is great for bearing life, but
kinda messy in the exhaust... thanks for any suggestions.

Try Simple Green. (Now in lemon scent, which I prefer.) It cleans
burnt pine tars off tablesaw blades in 15 minutes. I'll bet it would
work in an expansion chamber. A gallon might fill it. Tape one end
and fill 'er up. You can prolly reuse it several times.

$6.99 at a Homey's Despot store near you. ($8.99 original)

--
Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects.
--anon