Photos:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1a.html

Manual pages showing spec of motors and drives etc:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1b.html

First job is to find a servo drive to test the motors. If all is well with
these, then I can move along......



JB

On 2011-03-11, JB wrote:
Photos:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1a.html

Manual pages showing spec of motors and drives etc:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1b.html

First job is to find a servo drive to test the motors. If all is well with
these, then I can move along......

Looks like a nice, used machine. Congrats.

You can use any DC power source to test the motors. Examples are a car
battery, car battery charger, etc.

i

On 2011-03-11, Ignoramus16274 wrote:
On 2011-03-11, JB wrote:
Photos:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1a.html

Manual pages showing spec of motors and drives etc:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1b.html

First job is to find a servo drive to test the motors. If all is well with
these, then I can move along......

Looks like a nice, used machine. Congrats.

You can use any DC power source to test the motors. Examples are a car
battery, car battery charger, etc.

i

you need to put a skirt on the Y axis before you use any kind of
coolant or make chips.

"Ignoramus16274" wrote in message
...
On 2011-03-11, Ignoramus16274 wrote:
On 2011-03-11, JB wrote:
Photos:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1a.html

Manual pages showing spec of motors and drives etc:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1b.html

First job is to find a servo drive to test the motors. If all is well
with
these, then I can move along......

Looks like a nice, used machine. Congrats.

You can use any DC power source to test the motors. Examples are a car
battery, car battery charger, etc.

i

you need to put a skirt on the Y axis before you use any kind of
coolant or make chips.

Yes we will. The rubber got ripped off when we fitted the sling for lifting
it onto the truck.

JB

"Ignoramus16274" wrote in message
...
On 2011-03-11, JB wrote:
Photos:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1a.html

Manual pages showing spec of motors and drives etc:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1b.html

First job is to find a servo drive to test the motors. If all is well
with
these, then I can move along......

Looks like a nice, used machine. Congrats.

You can use any DC power source to test the motors. Examples are a car
battery, car battery charger, etc.

I'll try my big 0-30VDC 4A lab PSU then I think.
Thanks again.

JB

Man, that big beefy machine with those box ways make me GWE.

You can have some fun with the bird's nest. Rip it all out. You may re
use a bit but its actually easier to start with an empty box. That way
you can have a nice component layout.

Karl

On 2011-03-11, JB wrote:

"Ignoramus16274" wrote in message
...
On 2011-03-11, JB wrote:
Photos:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1a.html

Manual pages showing spec of motors and drives etc:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1b.html

First job is to find a servo drive to test the motors. If all is well
with
these, then I can move along......

Looks like a nice, used machine. Congrats.

You can use any DC power source to test the motors. Examples are a car
battery, car battery charger, etc.

I'll try my big 0-30VDC 4A lab PSU then I think.
Thanks again.

Start with a low voltage -- it will accelerate *fast* with full
voltage and current, and you might not get it stopped before it hits the
stops.

And you say four brushes. Typically, two are heavy duty ones (or
have heavy duty wires running to them) and the other two (at right
angles to the first two) are lighter. They are where the tach feedback
pickoff brushes, and probably should not get much current to allow for
clean pickoff of the tach feedback signals.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
Man, that big beefy machine with those box ways make me GWE.

:)

You can have some fun with the bird's nest. Rip it all out. You may re
use a bit but its actually easier to start with an empty box. That way
you can have a nice component layout.

That's the plan. Strip it all out and start afresh. I'll update on progress
as time allows.
cheers,
JB

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2011-03-11, JB wrote:

"Ignoramus16274" wrote in message
...
On 2011-03-11, JB wrote:
Photos:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1a.html

Manual pages showing spec of motors and drives etc:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1b.html

First job is to find a servo drive to test the motors. If all is well
with
these, then I can move along......

Looks like a nice, used machine. Congrats.

You can use any DC power source to test the motors. Examples are a car
battery, car battery charger, etc.

I'll try my big 0-30VDC 4A lab PSU then I think.
Thanks again.

Start with a low voltage -- it will accelerate *fast* with full
voltage and current, and you might not get it stopped before it hits the
stops.

Good advice! These are big motors.

And you say four brushes. Typically, two are heavy duty ones (or
have heavy duty wires running to them) and the other two (at right
angles to the first two) are lighter. They are where the tach feedback
pickoff brushes, and probably should not get much current to allow for
clean pickoff of the tach feedback signals.

I'll look into this when i detach all of the wiring next week.
cheers,
JB

On Fri, 11 Mar 2011 15:08:08 -0000, "JB" wrote:

Photos:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1a.html

Manual pages showing spec of motors and drives etc:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1b.html

First job is to find a servo drive to test the motors. If all is well with
these, then I can move along......

JB

Man oh man.....that is a "brick sh**house" of a mill. Beautiful
machine with great potential after the rebuild.

You say your friend "gave" you that mill and it had only been used to
mill some plastics? That is a great friend, because that machine is a
real Cadillac.

Please keep the pictures of your progress comming.
Dave

JB wrote:



And you say four brushes. Typically, two are heavy duty ones (or
have heavy duty wires running to them) and the other two (at right
angles to the first two) are lighter. They are where the tach feedback
pickoff brushes, and probably should not get much current to allow for
clean pickoff of the tach feedback signals.
No, generally, these are 4-pole motors, they use all 4 brushes for the
power armature. Electrocraft made their "motomatic" that had a tach winding
with a separate commutator on the other end of the armature, but the power
and tach windings were in the same slots.

But, I've never seen a motomatic on a servo-driven machine tool. I think
you will find the brushes exactly opposite each other are connected
together, and the other pair also connected.

I've never seen anything with tach and power brushes on the same commutator.

Jon

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 11 Mar 2011 15:08:08 -0000, "JB" wrote:

Photos:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1a.html

Manual pages showing spec of motors and drives etc:
http://www.jmbyrne.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1b.html

First job is to find a servo drive to test the motors. If all is well with
these, then I can move along......

JB

Man oh man.....that is a "brick sh**house" of a mill. Beautiful
machine with great potential after the rebuild.

Indeed. It does seem to hacked out of the solid! I do like overengineered
things. I ride a Moto Guzzi. Enough said.

You say your friend "gave" you that mill and it had only been used to
mill some plastics? That is a great friend, because that machine is a
real Cadillac.

Yp. He gave me the machine as it was just too large for his home garage. He
got it given to him by another guy on our motorcycle newsgroup who runs a
plastics laser cutting and fabrication company.

Please keep the pictures of your progress comming.

Will do. Servo testing next week. Then ripping out the old wiring/controls.
cheers,

JB

"Jon Elson" wrote in message
news
JB wrote:



And you say four brushes. Typically, two are heavy duty ones (or
have heavy duty wires running to them) and the other two (at right
angles to the first two) are lighter. They are where the tach feedback
pickoff brushes, and probably should not get much current to allow for
clean pickoff of the tach feedback signals.
No, generally, these are 4-pole motors, they use all 4 brushes for the
power armature. Electrocraft made their "motomatic" that had a tach
winding
with a separate commutator on the other end of the armature, but the power
and tach windings were in the same slots.

But, I've never seen a motomatic on a servo-driven machine tool. I think
you will find the brushes exactly opposite each other are connected
together, and the other pair also connected.

I've never seen anything with tach and power brushes on the same
commutator.

Agreed. Looking at the conductor diameters, these are _not_ tacho wires.
I'll post some photos next week.
cheers,
JB

On Sun, 13 Mar 2011 18:59:24 -0000, "JB" wrote:

wrote in message
. ..

Man oh man.....that is a "brick sh**house" of a mill. Beautiful
machine with great potential after the rebuild.

Indeed. It does seem to hacked out of the solid! I do like overengineered
things. I ride a Moto Guzzi. Enough said.
JB

You will be able to make huge sized cuts with high accuracy and very
minimal chatter in really tough materials like cast iron judging by
the rigidity of construction of that machine.
Dave

On 2011-03-13, Jon Elson wrote:
JB wrote:



And you say four brushes. Typically, two are heavy duty ones (or
have heavy duty wires running to them) and the other two (at right
angles to the first two) are lighter. They are where the tach feedback
pickoff brushes, and probably should not get much current to allow for
clean pickoff of the tach feedback signals.
No, generally, these are 4-pole motors, they use all 4 brushes for the
power armature. Electrocraft made their "motomatic" that had a tach winding
with a separate commutator on the other end of the armature, but the power
and tach windings were in the same slots.

O.K. You are correct. My motors are SEM (Small Electric
Motors), and I never saw any extra brushes for the tach -- so I just
visited their site and downloaded the service manual (among other
things), and find that the tach brushes are hiding behind the encoder.

I also discovered that these particular motors can be
disassembled without losing magnetic strength.



But, I've never seen a motomatic on a servo-driven machine tool. I think
you will find the brushes exactly opposite each other are connected
together, and the other pair also connected.

As they are. Thank you!

I've never seen anything with tach and power brushes on the same commutator.

I did sort of wonder about this -- but in the absence of other
visible brushes, I jumped to an incorrect conclusion.

Thanks,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2011-03-14, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2011-03-13, Jon Elson wrote:
JB wrote:



And you say four brushes. Typically, two are heavy duty ones (or
have heavy duty wires running to them) and the other two (at right
angles to the first two) are lighter. They are where the tach feedback
pickoff brushes, and probably should not get much current to allow for
clean pickoff of the tach feedback signals.
No, generally, these are 4-pole motors, they use all 4 brushes for the
power armature. Electrocraft made their "motomatic" that had a tach winding
with a separate commutator on the other end of the armature, but the power
and tach windings were in the same slots.

O.K. You are correct. My motors are SEM (Small Electric
Motors), and I never saw any extra brushes for the tach -- so I just
visited their site and downloaded the service manual (among other
things), and find that the tach brushes are hiding behind the encoder.

They are inside the motor, I have a picture of them on my website.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...-0004.jpg.html

i

On 2011-03-14, Ignoramus858 wrote:
On 2011-03-14, DoN. Nichols wrote:

[ ... ]

O.K. You are correct. My motors are SEM (Small Electric
Motors), and I never saw any extra brushes for the tach -- so I just
visited their site and downloaded the service manual (among other
things), and find that the tach brushes are hiding behind the encoder.

They are inside the motor, I have a picture of them on my website.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...-0004.jpg.html

As the drawings in the downloaded service manual shows.

Thanks,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---