I'm buying a safe for personal papers and possibly some light valuables...
But God only knows what I'll be using it for 5 years from now.

It has holes in the bottom to bolt it down and I think I can get a 3/4"
thick metal plate in there too with holes in the same locations to further
beef up the bottom...

What would *you* do to properly secure a safe to the floor, wall, etc.?

I'm not to worried about someone breaching the door as I'm not keeping
super-valuables in there, but I do plan on making sure that anyone who tries
to simply run away with the safe has one heck of a hard time getting it off
the concrete floor...

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
I'm buying a safe for personal papers and possibly some light valuables...
But God only knows what I'll be using it for 5 years from now.

It has holes in the bottom to bolt it down and I think I can get a 3/4"
thick metal plate in there too with holes in the same locations to further
beef up the bottom...

What would *you* do to properly secure a safe to the floor, wall, etc.?

I'm not to worried about someone breaching the door as I'm not keeping
super-valuables in there, but I do plan on making sure that anyone who tries
to simply run away with the safe has one heck of a hard time getting it off
the concrete floor...

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R





I would get a plate and drill and tap it to fit the hole pattern on the
bottom of the safe. Then I would Lag the plate to the floor. Put ths
safe on top of the plate and use some studs , nuts and washers to bolt
the safe to the plate. You could also just put some cement anchors in
the floor to match the bolt hole location of the safe.

John

In article ,
"Joe AutoDrill" wrote:

What would *you* do to properly secure a safe to the floor, wall, etc.?

I'm not to worried about someone breaching the door as I'm not keeping
super-valuables in there, but I do plan on making sure that anyone who tries
to simply run away with the safe has one heck of a hard time getting it off
the concrete floor...

Step 1, don't mention it.

Step 2, hide it. Step 2a - provide a decoy that's easy to find. Tie that
into the alarm system, if you have one, and use a cheap bolt to "hold it
down" on the alarm switch. Might as well alarm its door while you
are at it. Do the same for the real one if you can run the wires so they
don't give it away. Video as well, depending what you have.

Step 3, which is related to step 2, wrap the whole thing in reinforcing
steel and cast it in concrete. Bolts can be pried loose or broken. Check
door clearance before building the forms. If you add a lip forward you
can make the door harder to pry (for a cheap "safe" that's not very
pry-resistant, anyway.)

Step 0 - plan so you don't need to move it. You'll need a sledgehammer
at the minimum to get it out. Nothing is theft-proof, but you can make
it slow and loud to get out. The only time you violate step 1 should be
after you've sold the building it's in. If you move, plan to buy a new
one.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in message
...
I'm buying a safe for personal papers and possibly some light valuables...
But God only knows what I'll be using it for 5 years from now.

It has holes in the bottom to bolt it down and I think I can get a 3/4"
thick metal plate in there too with holes in the same locations to further
beef up the bottom...

What would *you* do to properly secure a safe to the floor, wall, etc.?

I'm not to worried about someone breaching the door as I'm not keeping
super-valuables in there, but I do plan on making sure that anyone who
tries to simply run away with the safe has one heck of a hard time getting
it off the concrete floor...

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

I would do what you said, add the plate INSIDE the safe. Then I would use
BIG Red Heads drilled into the concrete. 3" minimum. Yes, your main
concern is to fasten it as close to the floor as you can, and that includes
making the sides come down straight to meet the floor. As in don't give
them a groove where they can get a prybar in between the safe and floor to
get any leverage.

Have fun.

SteveB

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Download the book $10
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in message
...
I'm buying a safe for personal papers and possibly some light valuables...
But God only knows what I'll be using it for 5 years from now.

It has holes in the bottom to bolt it down and I think I can get a 3/4"
thick metal plate in there too with holes in the same locations to further
beef up the bottom...

What would *you* do to properly secure a safe to the floor, wall, etc.?

Drive in expansion anchor.

On 3/7/2011 9:43 AM, Ecnerwal wrote:

Step 3, which is related to step 2, wrap the whole thing in reinforcing
steel and cast it in concrete. Bolts can be pried loose or broken. Check
door clearance before building the forms. If you add a lip forward you
can make the door harder to pry (for a cheap "safe" that's not very
pry-resistant, anyway.)

If I owned instead of renting, I always thought I'd get an in floor
safe. Move my Bridgeport a couple feet and install, secure my valuables,
move the mill back.
It's really not terribly difficult to move a mill 2' by myself.


Jon

Joe AutoDrill wrote:

I'm buying a safe for personal papers and possibly some light valuables...
But God only knows what I'll be using it for 5 years from now.

It has holes in the bottom to bolt it down and I think I can get a 3/4"
thick metal plate in there too with holes in the same locations to further
beef up the bottom...

What would *you* do to properly secure a safe to the floor, wall, etc.?

I'm not to worried about someone breaching the door as I'm not keeping
super-valuables in there, but I do plan on making sure that anyone who tries
to simply run away with the safe has one heck of a hard time getting it off
the concrete floor...

I'd mark the floor through the holes, hammer drill and install Hilti
1/2-13 threaded insert anchors (or equiv), and bolt the safe down to
those with some grade 8 bolts and large washers (or your plate). Unless
your concrete is crap, those anchors have a very high pullout load
rating, so they won't be getting the safe off the floor without opening
it or using heavy equipment.

On Mon, 7 Mar 2011 12:21:36 -0500, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

I'm buying a safe for personal papers and possibly some light valuables...
But God only knows what I'll be using it for 5 years from now.

It has holes in the bottom to bolt it down and I think I can get a 3/4"
thick metal plate in there too with holes in the same locations to further
beef up the bottom...

What would *you* do to properly secure a safe to the floor, wall, etc.?

I'm not to worried about someone breaching the door as I'm not keeping
super-valuables in there, but I do plan on making sure that anyone who tries
to simply run away with the safe has one heck of a hard time getting it off
the concrete floor...



Joe,
No need to go overboard here, if you ever watched the show "it
takes a theif" the new one on home security that is. Just use lead
sheilds or thunder studs and bolt it down, if it's half way hard to
take the average theif will leave it. They want to be in and out
fast.

Run a peice of thermostat wire to it, just so it appears to be
connected to an alarm circuit.

UNLESS... you think the theif might have a long to work at it, like
your house is way off the beaten path and no one will notice, then get
a better grade of safe and use the other suggestions to bolt the hell
out of it.

McMaster version of what I call a thunder stud.....97046A119

Randy

"Randy333" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 7 Mar 2011 12:21:36 -0500, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

I'm buying a safe for personal papers and possibly some light valuables...
But God only knows what I'll be using it for 5 years from now.

It has holes in the bottom to bolt it down and I think I can get a 3/4"
thick metal plate in there too with holes in the same locations to further
beef up the bottom...

What would *you* do to properly secure a safe to the floor, wall, etc.?

I'm not to worried about someone breaching the door as I'm not keeping
super-valuables in there, but I do plan on making sure that anyone who
tries
to simply run away with the safe has one heck of a hard time getting it
off
the concrete floor...



Joe,
No need to go overboard here, if you ever watched the show "it
takes a theif" the new one on home security that is. Just use lead
sheilds or thunder studs and bolt it down, if it's half way hard to
take the average theif will leave it. They want to be in and out
fast.

Run a peice of thermostat wire to it, just so it appears to be
connected to an alarm circuit.

UNLESS... you think the theif might have a long to work at it, like
your house is way off the beaten path and no one will notice, then get
a better grade of safe and use the other suggestions to bolt the hell
out of it.

McMaster version of what I call a thunder stud.....97046A119


Mine is a ~1911 Mosler Cannonball and it was embedded in the concrete
foundation ~1962 or thereabouts.

So far as the legend goes the owner was awakened in his sleep sometime in
1964 or so and was held at gunpoint while his wife was taken
downstairs...though she had no idea what the combination was...

--Later, he was taken downstairs and finally he opened it after several
tries, proving his previous claims of it's being empty..

As it sits, nowadays it cannot be shut--let alone be locked unless someone
were to re-install the main hinge pins etc which are all intact and sitting
inside the safe.

Luckily, nobody was killed in the process--and the perps were caught...

Still, I suggest rent a safety deposit box at your local bank instead.

--

On Wed, 9 Mar 2011 20:16:52 -0800, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


"Randy333" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 7 Mar 2011 12:21:36 -0500, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

I'm buying a safe for personal papers and possibly some light valuables...
But God only knows what I'll be using it for 5 years from now.

It has holes in the bottom to bolt it down and I think I can get a 3/4"
thick metal plate in there too with holes in the same locations to further
beef up the bottom...

What would *you* do to properly secure a safe to the floor, wall, etc.?

I'm not to worried about someone breaching the door as I'm not keeping
super-valuables in there, but I do plan on making sure that anyone who
tries
to simply run away with the safe has one heck of a hard time getting it
off
the concrete floor...



Joe,
No need to go overboard here, if you ever watched the show "it
takes a theif" the new one on home security that is. Just use lead
sheilds or thunder studs and bolt it down, if it's half way hard to
take the average theif will leave it. They want to be in and out
fast.

Run a peice of thermostat wire to it, just so it appears to be
connected to an alarm circuit.

UNLESS... you think the theif might have a long to work at it, like
your house is way off the beaten path and no one will notice, then get
a better grade of safe and use the other suggestions to bolt the hell
out of it.

McMaster version of what I call a thunder stud.....97046A119


Mine is a ~1911 Mosler Cannonball and it was embedded in the concrete
foundation ~1962 or thereabouts.

So far as the legend goes the owner was awakened in his sleep sometime in
1964 or so and was held at gunpoint while his wife was taken
downstairs...though she had no idea what the combination was...

--Later, he was taken downstairs and finally he opened it after several
tries, proving his previous claims of it's being empty..

As it sits, nowadays it cannot be shut--let alone be locked unless someone
were to re-install the main hinge pins etc which are all intact and sitting
inside the safe.

Luckily, nobody was killed in the process--and the perps were caught...

Still, I suggest rent a safety deposit box at your local bank instead.


I would say a safe is for keeping your stuff from being stolen while
you are not home. If you are home and they threaten you, open it.