The picture is he

I mounted the knee gear motor, with the encoder on it.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...-8111.jpg.html

All other pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...ntrol-to-Knee/

The motor basically hangs on the knee in a vertical position, and is
kept in one angular position by a brace, made up of steel angle and a
steel flat.

I tried running it from just a DC power supply, and it does run just
fine, moving the knee up and down, at least with pneumatic assist.

So, the next task is to put one more servo drive inside the cabinet,
which is a pain in the butt. I also need to route power and encoder
cable, which is also a pain due to needing to drill an extra hole in
the enclosure. I am afraid that drilling chips may short some piece of
electronics.

i

On Feb 26, 4:15*pm, Ignoramus15145 ignoramus15...@NOSPAM.
15145.invalid wrote:
The picture is he

I mounted the knee gear motor, with the encoder on it.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...teract-2-CNC-M...

All other pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...teract-2-CNC-M...

The motor basically hangs on the knee in a vertical position, and is
kept in one angular position by a brace, made up of steel angle and a
steel flat.

I tried running it from just a DC power supply, and it does run just
fine, moving the knee up and down, at least with pneumatic assist.

So, the next task is to put one more servo drive inside the cabinet,
which is a pain in the butt. I also need to route power and encoder
cable, which is also a pain due to needing to drill an extra hole in
the enclosure. I am afraid that drilling chips may short some piece of
electronics.

i

Make a cup out of duct tape and stick it inside the box to catch any
chips. Or, you could put a generous layer of grease on the drill bit
to pick up the chips.

rangerssuck fired this volley in news:65b0ce59-
:

Make a cup out of duct tape and stick it inside the box to catch any
chips. Or, you could put a generous layer of grease on the drill bit
to pick up the chips.


Or you can drill through a wad a plasticine (modeling clay). Common trick.

LLoyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
rangerssuck fired this volley in news:65b0ce59-
:

Make a cup out of duct tape and stick it inside the box to catch any
chips. Or, you could put a generous layer of grease on the drill bit
to pick up the chips.


Or you can drill through a wad a plasticine (modeling clay). Common
trick.

LLoyd


Cheap $15 round hole chassis punch will do it. I bought some & use them for
other jobs too.

"Ignoramus15145" wrote in message
...


So, the next task is to put one more servo drive inside the cabinet,
which is a pain in the butt.

Mount it in a separate enclosure then.

--

On Feb 26, 9:49*pm, "Dennis" wrote:
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in messagenews:Xns9E98BC75A214Alloydspmindspringcom@2 16.168.3.70...

rangerssuck fired this volley in news:65b0ce59-
:

Make a cup out of duct tape and stick it inside the box to catch any
chips. Or, you could put a generous layer of grease on the drill bit
to pick up the chips.

Or you can drill through a wad a plasticine (modeling clay). *Common
trick.

LLoyd

Cheap $15 round hole chassis punch will do it. I bought some & use them for
other jobs too.

But the punch needs a hole to start in.

On 2011-02-27, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

"Ignoramus15145" wrote in message
...


So, the next task is to put one more servo drive inside the cabinet,
which is a pain in the butt.

Mount it in a separate enclosure then.


I want, to the extent possible, things to be neat and workmanlike.

i

On 2011-02-26, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
rangerssuck fired this volley in news:65b0ce59-
:

Make a cup out of duct tape and stick it inside the box to catch any
chips. Or, you could put a generous layer of grease on the drill bit
to pick up the chips.


Or you can drill through a wad a plasticine (modeling clay). Common trick.

LLoyd

That's a smart idea.

i

Ignoramus15145 wrote:

I also need to route power and encoder
cable, which is also a pain due to needing to drill an extra hole in
the enclosure. I am afraid that drilling chips may short some piece of
electronics.

HF sells a hydraulic punch/driver set that can be had for ~$70 or so on
sale / coupon. You still need to drill a pilot hole for the punch driver
and can use clay, magnets or a shop vac to catch chips from that, but
after that you can punch nice clean holes up through 2"+ size with ease.
I've used the $800+ Greenlee hydraulic punch drivers and the HF one
works just as well.

On 2011-02-27, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus15145 wrote:

I also need to route power and encoder
cable, which is also a pain due to needing to drill an extra hole in
the enclosure. I am afraid that drilling chips may short some piece of
electronics.

HF sells a hydraulic punch/driver set that can be had for ~$70 or so on
sale / coupon. You still need to drill a pilot hole for the punch driver
and can use clay, magnets or a shop vac to catch chips from that, but
after that you can punch nice clean holes up through 2"+ size with ease.
I've used the $800+ Greenlee hydraulic punch drivers and the HF one
works just as well.

Pete, which HF item number are you referring to? I will definitely get
it.

i

On Sun, 27 Feb 2011 09:00:33 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Ignoramus15145 wrote:

I also need to route power and encoder
cable, which is also a pain due to needing to drill an extra hole in
the enclosure. I am afraid that drilling chips may short some piece of
electronics.

HF sells a hydraulic punch/driver set that can be had for ~$70 or so on
sale / coupon. You still need to drill a pilot hole for the punch driver
and can use clay, magnets or a shop vac to catch chips from that, but
after that you can punch nice clean holes up through 2"+ size with ease.
I've used the $800+ Greenlee hydraulic punch drivers and the HF one
works just as well.

I'll bet the hydraulic set is nice.

That said, let me warn you about the -manual- punch set. The dies must
have been made in Taiwan and the screw in China, because the interface
was so loose, the die wobbled 3/16". Upon first use, it stripped out
at about 15in/lbs, before I even got a dent in the workpiece metal.

http://www.harborfreight.com/knockou...kit-91201.html -=AVOID!=-

I found a used Greenlee pair on eBay for $18 (2 sizes plus leather
pouch) which did the trick the first time.

--
You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club.
--Jack London

"Ignoramus15145" wrote in message
...
The picture is he

I mounted the knee gear motor, with the encoder on it.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...-8111.jpg.html

All other pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...ntrol-to-Knee/

The motor basically hangs on the knee in a vertical position, and is
kept in one angular position by a brace, made up of steel angle and a
steel flat.

I tried running it from just a DC power supply, and it does run just
fine, moving the knee up and down, at least with pneumatic assist.

So, the next task is to put one more servo drive inside the cabinet,
which is a pain in the butt. I also need to route power and encoder
cable, which is also a pain due to needing to drill an extra hole in
the enclosure. I am afraid that drilling chips may short some piece of
electronics.

i

Just wondering, what about driving the knee up and down with a power supply
and reversing contactor. It won't position real accurate but the error
could be taken care of with Z axis coordinate offset. It seems as long as
you could read the position accurately you wouldn't have to position both
knee and quill accurately. If the knee positions a little off, the quill
could compensate. It would save you a drive and installation maybe.

RogerN

"Ignoramus15145" wrote in message
...
On 2011-02-27, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

"Ignoramus15145" wrote in message
...


So, the next task is to put one more servo drive inside the cabinet,
which is a pain in the butt.

Mount it in a separate enclosure then.


I want, to the extent possible, things to be neat and workmanlike.


As do I--and especially I dislike crowded enclosures.

--

Ignoramus31412 wrote:

On 2011-02-27, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus15145 wrote:

I also need to route power and encoder
cable, which is also a pain due to needing to drill an extra hole in
the enclosure. I am afraid that drilling chips may short some piece of
electronics.

HF sells a hydraulic punch/driver set that can be had for ~$70 or so on
sale / coupon. You still need to drill a pilot hole for the punch driver
and can use clay, magnets or a shop vac to catch chips from that, but
after that you can punch nice clean holes up through 2"+ size with ease.
I've used the $800+ Greenlee hydraulic punch drivers and the HF one
works just as well.

Pete, which HF item number are you referring to? I will definitely get
it.

i

http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraul...kit-96718.html

Also recommended is:

http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraul...ool-66150.html

I'll note on the crimper that the dies are simple rectangles of steel
with locating pins threaded into the back and both halves of the die set
are identical, making it very easy to make your own custom dies.

Ignoramus31412 wrote:

On 2011-02-27, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus15145 wrote:

I also need to route power and encoder
cable, which is also a pain due to needing to drill an extra hole in
the enclosure. I am afraid that drilling chips may short some piece of
electronics.

HF sells a hydraulic punch/driver set that can be had for ~$70 or so on
sale / coupon. You still need to drill a pilot hole for the punch driver
and can use clay, magnets or a shop vac to catch chips from that, but
after that you can punch nice clean holes up through 2"+ size with ease.
I've used the $800+ Greenlee hydraulic punch drivers and the HF one
works just as well.

Pete, which HF item number are you referring to? I will definitely get
it.

i

http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraul...kit-96718.html

Also recommended is:

http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraul...ool-66150.html

I'll note on the crimper that the dies are simple rectangles of steel
with locating pins threaded into the back and both halves of the die set
are identical, making it very easy to make your own custom dies.

On 2011-02-27, RogerN wrote:
Just wondering, what about driving the knee up and down with a power supply
and reversing contactor.

That works.

It won't position real accurate but the error could be taken care of
with Z axis coordinate offset. It seems as long as you could read
the position accurately you wouldn't have to position both knee and
quill accurately. If the knee positions a little off, the quill
could compensate. It would save you a drive and installation maybe.

Well, what I know by now is that the drive works just fine.

Furthermore, with the motor connected to PPMC DAC output number 3
(fourth), if I set ppmc.0.DAC.3 to +10, -10, or 0, the knee moves
as expected.

What I have yet to make work correctly, is to make EMC output to DAC 3
when a change in W is commanded. I thought that I did everything
right for it to do that, but it does not yet work.

i

On 2011-03-01, Ignoramus28206 wrote:
On 2011-02-27, RogerN wrote:
Just wondering, what about driving the knee up and down with a power supply
and reversing contactor.

That works.

It won't position real accurate but the error could be taken care of
with Z axis coordinate offset. It seems as long as you could read
the position accurately you wouldn't have to position both knee and
quill accurately. If the knee positions a little off, the quill
could compensate. It would save you a drive and installation maybe.

Well, what I know by now is that the drive works just fine.

Furthermore, with the motor connected to PPMC DAC output number 3
(fourth), if I set ppmc.0.DAC.3 to +10, -10, or 0, the knee moves
as expected.

And reported position is displayed accordingly.

What I have yet to make work correctly, is to make EMC output to DAC 3
when a change in W is commanded. I thought that I did everything
right for it to do that, but it does not yet work.

i