If you want to make it a project, take a 12 TPI saw blade, clamp it between
a couple of pieces of angle stock, and scrape the surface sideways. :-)

Take two pieces of said sawblade, and use them in the jointer/planer
head? Make sure you align the teeth (though if one points left and
one right you might get squarish grooves?). Maybe go up a size or
three, 8tpi, 6tpi, 4?
--Glenn Lyford

On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 17:22:47 -0800, Gunner Asch wrote:

Ive built a number of machines for a friend of mine, who slots PVC pipe
for the water industry.

Any pics handy? Have been involved with a few homemade machines over the years
and always interested in seeing others.
--
William

On 3 Jan 2011 04:55:54 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2011-01-03, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 18:39:36 -0500, William Bagwell
wrote:

Have not used a horizontal mill since 1977! Come to think of it I can not
recall even seeing a (manual) horizontal any where in the past 20 years. Big
CNC one I saw at an auction a few years back lacked the long arbor I remember
from school though one was probably available.

While I've got a small manual horizontal mill -- the Nichols,
appropriately enough. :-)

But another idea to consider for the future. Will start keeping my eye out for
a cheap horizontal mill.

You really want to take the idea, but not the horizontal mill.
The spindle speeds are not fast enough for clean woodwork.

Ah, good point. Plus either a jointer or a gang saw can easily be built into an
existing table and not take up any additional room.

(snips)

We are putting 4" carbide tipped slotting saws on the arbors, with
ground spacers between them..sometimes we have (30) .015 saws .125"
apart all running on an arbor at 3600 rpm.

While I think that he needs probably 0.125" saws, and spacers of
0.375" for a half inch center to center spacing. (Or do the bats prefer
closer groove spacing?)

Not sure if they prefer it but I can see no reason they would dislike having
them closer. I think that most others in the past have stopped at 'close
enough' because of the excessive labor of spacing them closer. May ask about
this on the bat house forum.
--
William

On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 23:02:54 -0800, Gunner Asch wrote:

On 3 Jan 2011 04:55:54 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:
(snips)
Especially if you can find a batch of first time resharpened
ones. You don't want a mix of different number of resharps because the
diameters would vary too much.

Im not sure in his application thats all that negative.

No, and if it was only ten or fifteen thousandths would probably not even be
noticeable to most folks.
--
William

On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 20:45:22 -0500, axolotl wrote:

On 1/2/2011 8:23 PM, William Bagwell wrote:


Maternity colony, so more like bat bordellos than bleachers.
I recently have been seeing expanded
*cardboard* being used as packing materiel.

A couple of ideas. Old sawmills sometimes used a shop built rotary
planer- a horizontal spinning disc of wood with a single tooth sticking
down. If the rough sawn wood was fed slowly, you got a smoother plank.
If fed too fast, you got a series of arcs across the face of the lumber.
You could feed fast.

Need to Google this sometime. Sounds almost like a fly cutter.

Plan B would be to purchase 1/4" corrugated cardboard honeycomb as is
used in packing, lay it on the plywood, and spray it with acrylic for
weather protection and adhesion.

The corrugated sounds good but not the cardboard. Don't think it would be
simple to keep it from falling apart in the presence of bat urine.

Plan C?

Recycle the tread of old tires. Charge more because the bat bordello is
now green.

Someone has already experimented with old tire tread on the outside of bat
houses.
http://bathouseforum.org/forum/old-t...it=tires#p4652

If you stayed away from bald slick tires it might possibly work for an interior
surface as well. I want to experiment with small amounts of sand mixed with the
plastic. (Rotomolding) Not sure it will be rough enough for the bats to cling
to. Worth a try...

Plan D?

Buy the bark slab at the sawmill that is usually burned as waste. Use it
inside out to build the bathouse.

Slabs would probably be too rounded, but I also want to try making a few
baffles the same way they make bark shingles. Siding not roof, and not kidding
here! Traditionally American chestnut was used and there are still a few
surviving examples. Tulip popular is a poor substitute. Probably actually
easier to work with than chestnut however I can not imagine it lasting anywhere
near as long.
--
William

On Tue, 04 Jan 2011 08:35:23 -0800, Rich Grise
wrote:

William Bagwell wrote:
...
BTW these grooves need to be slightly rough. While I want to avoid
splinters extremely smooth groves are not what I need or want. Nor do I
want any radius at the top or bottom of the grooves. This would defeat the
whole purpose of having grooves for the bats little toenails to grip

Bats? Just get some rough-sawn wood or take some very coarse grit paper and
rough up the surface. They'll figure it out. They're able to cling to the
ceilings of caves, you know.

I actually discussed rough-sawn with a sawmill that supplies the pallet
industry a few days ago. Described my needs and they believe that in relatively
small quantities they can beat the price per square foot of exterior plywood.
Sadly my prototype run will not be large enough to cover the set up charge.

If you want to make it a project, take a 12 TPI saw blade, clamp it between
a couple of pieces of angle stock, and scrape the surface sideways. :-)

Power hack saw blades! In a jointer, not hand scraping... If your idea works
they would be incredibly easy to make and replace when dull.
--
William

On Tue, 4 Jan 2011 19:45:01 -0800 (PST), Glenn Lyford
wrote:

If you want to make it a project, take a 12 TPI saw blade, clamp it between
a couple of pieces of angle stock, and scrape the surface sideways. :-)

Take two pieces of said sawblade, and use them in the jointer/planer
head? Make sure you align the teeth (though if one points left and
one right you might get squarish grooves?). Maybe go up a size or
three, 8tpi, 6tpi, 4?

Ah, even better. Two saw blades would probably be about the same thickness as
one jointer blade.
--
William

On Thu, 06 Jan 2011 19:13:55 -0500, William Bagwell
wrote:

On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 17:22:47 -0800, Gunner Asch wrote:

Ive built a number of machines for a friend of mine, who slots PVC pipe
for the water industry.

Any pics handy? Have been involved with a few homemade machines over the years
and always interested in seeing others.

Ill try to remember to take some next week when I go down, with his
permission.

This is the sort of thing they do with my machines:

http://www.certainteed.com/resources...ing403733f.pdf

Gunner



--

"You can have peace. Or you can have freedom. Don't ever count on having both at once."
Robert A. Heinlein

On Sat, 01 Jan 2011 10:51:17 -0500, William Bagwell
wrote:

Need shallow grooves in wood, *lots* of shallow grooves in lots of wood. At
least 48 in each side of dozens of 16 X 24" pieces of plywood and almost as
many boards grooved on only one side.

Remote possibility this will become a recurring need and I will be able to
afford machinery and or custom tooling to make this easy. For now I'm doing a
limited run of prototypes and could resort to cutting them one by one with a
circular saw. Perhaps even two at a time with two blades in a table saw. But
where is the fun in that?

Have access to an old 6" jointer and think modifying the knives with a series
of flats leaving a row of cutting tips spaced approximately 1/2" apart *might*
just work. Cutting at least 12 grooves in one pass.

Looking for ideas that are better than just goobering up a set of jointer
knives with a hand held abrasive blade. Have no free access to a surface
grinder or any machine shop equipment more sophisticated than a worn out
drill-mill combo.

BTW these grooves need to be slightly rough. While I want to avoid splinters
extremely smooth groves are not what I need or want. Nor do I want any radius
at the top or bottom of the grooves. This would defeat the whole purpose of
having grooves for the bats little toenails to grip

Got a lot of helpful replies to this back in January and wanted to update every
one on my glacially slow progress. Ended up grinding 16, 1/4" wide slots in
each jointer knife, two at a time, with a bench grinder. Resulting 1/8" wide
tips do a half way decent job of putting groves in wood which is what I set out
to do. http://alt-config.net/modifiedjointer.html Scroll down for the metal
related stuff.

Ran a few proto type shells in March then realized I still needed a bunch more
wood working equipment to build baffles in quantities. Next acquisition will be
a thickness planner since all the rough sawn lumber available locally is too
thick, or varies too much, or involves an expensive set up charge, or... Will
also try next door in the wood working group for help on the planner.

Have a few more metal related ideas I want to try eventually but don't need the
distractions at the moment.
--
William

On 7/24/2011 7:57 AM, William Bagwell wrote:
On Sat, 01 Jan 2011 10:51:17 -0500, William Bagwell
wrote:

Need shallow grooves in wood, *lots* of shallow grooves in lots of wood. At
least 48 in each side of dozens of 16 X 24" pieces of plywood and almost as
many boards grooved on only one side.

Remote possibility this will become a recurring need and I will be able to
afford machinery and or custom tooling to make this easy. For now I'm doing a
limited run of prototypes and could resort to cutting them one by one with a
circular saw. Perhaps even two at a time with two blades in a table saw. But
where is the fun in that?

Have access to an old 6" jointer and think modifying the knives with a series
of flats leaving a row of cutting tips spaced approximately 1/2" apart *might*
just work. Cutting at least 12 grooves in one pass.

Looking for ideas that are better than just goobering up a set of jointer
knives with a hand held abrasive blade. Have no free access to a surface
grinder or any machine shop equipment more sophisticated than a worn out
drill-mill combo.

BTW these grooves need to be slightly rough. While I want to avoid splinters
extremely smooth groves are not what I need or want. Nor do I want any radius
at the top or bottom of the grooves. This would defeat the whole purpose of
having grooves for the bats little toenails to grip

Got a lot of helpful replies to this back in January and wanted to update every
one on my glacially slow progress. Ended up grinding 16, 1/4" wide slots in
each jointer knife, two at a time, with a bench grinder. Resulting 1/8" wide
tips do a half way decent job of putting groves in wood which is what I set out
to do. http://alt-config.net/modifiedjointer.html Scroll down for the metal
related stuff.


I feel your pain - I have tried a similar thing for (rehab birds)using a
table saw and making multiple passes. It gets v tedious after a while
but unlike yourself, it's not something that has to be repeated often.
I gather you are making bat houses, a worthwhile endeavor IMO.

Laurie Forbes

William Bagwell wrote:
On Sat, 01 Jan 2011 10:51:17 -0500, William Bagwell
wrote:

Need shallow grooves in wood, *lots* of shallow grooves in lots of wood. At
least 48 in each side of dozens of 16 X 24" pieces of plywood and almost as
many boards grooved on only one side.

Remote possibility this will become a recurring need and I will be able to
afford machinery and or custom tooling to make this easy. For now I'm doing a
limited run of prototypes and could resort to cutting them one by one with a
circular saw. Perhaps even two at a time with two blades in a table saw. But
where is the fun in that?

Have access to an old 6" jointer and think modifying the knives with a series
of flats leaving a row of cutting tips spaced approximately 1/2" apart *might*
just work. Cutting at least 12 grooves in one pass.

Looking for ideas that are better than just goobering up a set of jointer
knives with a hand held abrasive blade. Have no free access to a surface
grinder or any machine shop equipment more sophisticated than a worn out
drill-mill combo.

BTW these grooves need to be slightly rough. While I want to avoid splinters
extremely smooth groves are not what I need or want. Nor do I want any radius
at the top or bottom of the grooves. This would defeat the whole purpose of
having grooves for the bats little toenails to grip

Got a lot of helpful replies to this back in January and wanted to update every
one on my glacially slow progress. Ended up grinding 16, 1/4" wide slots in
each jointer knife, two at a time, with a bench grinder. Resulting 1/8" wide
tips do a half way decent job of putting groves in wood which is what I set out
to do. http://alt-config.net/modifiedjointer.html Scroll down for the metal
related stuff.

Ran a few proto type shells in March then realized I still needed a bunch more
wood working equipment to build baffles in quantities. Next acquisition will be
a thickness planner since all the rough sawn lumber available locally is too
thick, or varies too much, or involves an expensive set up charge, or... Will
also try next door in the wood working group for help on the planner.

Have a few more metal related ideas I want to try eventually but don't need the
distractions at the moment.

If it works great. I do some wood forming and usually cut relief grooves
using a similar set-up. I built an arbor that allowed me to stack small
saw blades and machine washers. The blades are the ones used with toe
kick saws.

--
Steve W.

On Jul 24, 3:46*pm, "Steve W." wrote:
...

How about blasting the wood with a pressure washer?

jsw

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 10:43:47 -0600, Laurie Forbes wrote:

I feel your pain - I have tried a similar thing for (rehab birds)using a
table saw and making multiple passes. It gets v tedious after a while
but unlike yourself, it's not something that has to be repeated often.
I gather you are making bat houses, a worthwhile endeavor IMO.

Yes, bat houses and very worth while for the little critters. Therapeutic for
my sanity too, but a bit hard on the wallet
--
William

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 15:46:41 -0400, "Steve W." wrote:

If it works great. I do some wood forming and usually cut relief grooves
using a similar set-up. I built an arbor that allowed me to stack small
saw blades and machine washers. The blades are the ones used with toe
kick saws.

It works great, not sure how long it will last before it needs re-sharpening.
If I ever out grow this rig something very similar to what you describe is
probably the next step. Will need to do a 24" wide board (even if more than one
pass) so the arbor size will have to be beefy.
--
William

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 14:47:58 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins wrote:

How about blasting the wood with a pressure washer?

Even if I found that perfect combination of hard / soft grain layers and water
pressure, it would probably be way too labor intensive. And likely a bit too
rounded of grooves as well. Basically the same problems as sand blasting except
you trade dust for drying time.

Still worth experimenting with a bit though...
--
William

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:30:41 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote:

For wood working machines of all sorts...contact

He also sells on Ebay. If he doesnt have what you need, he can probably
find it for you.

http://stores.ebay.com/Great-Machine...Machine?_rdc=1

A very good and very honest seller.

Left coast? Shipping will likely negate any possible savings but will contact
him with my needs. Going to look for used commercial first over hobbyist (or
full industrial. No 3 phase) since I need fast not smooth.
--
William

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 20:31:41 -0400, William Bagwell
wrote:

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:30:41 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote:

For wood working machines of all sorts...contact

He also sells on Ebay. If he doesnt have what you need, he can probably
find it for you.

http://stores.ebay.com/Great-Machine...Machine?_rdc=1

A very good and very honest seller.

Left coast? Shipping will likely negate any possible savings but will contact
him with my needs. Going to look for used commercial first over hobbyist (or
full industrial. No 3 phase) since I need fast not smooth.

He gets cheaper shipping than anyone I know. He has some working
agreements with a number of shipping resources.

Gunner

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 20:08:31 -0400, William Bagwell
wrote:

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 10:43:47 -0600, Laurie Forbes wrote:

I feel your pain - I have tried a similar thing for (rehab birds)using a
table saw and making multiple passes. It gets v tedious after a while
but unlike yourself, it's not something that has to be repeated often.
I gather you are making bat houses, a worthwhile endeavor IMO.

Yes, bat houses and very worth while for the little critters. Therapeutic for
my sanity too, but a bit hard on the wallet

From what I understand, dem leetle guyses have tiny feetzes and tiny
clawzes on 'em so a single cut with a table saw blade will give them
enough purchase to climb and roost.

That's what I used for my neighbor's bat houses. He tells me he hasn't
seen any occupants yet. shrug
http://www.fws.gov/Asheville/pdfs/beneficialbats.pdf

Do NOT stain the inside like the idiot from the NWF site suggests.
It's both toxic to animals and the smell will drive them off.

--
[Television is] the triumph of machine over people.
-- Fred Allen

William Bagwell wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 15:46:41 -0400, "Steve W." wrote:

If it works great. I do some wood forming and usually cut relief grooves
using a similar set-up. I built an arbor that allowed me to stack small
saw blades and machine washers. The blades are the ones used with toe
kick saws.

It works great, not sure how long it will last before it needs re-sharpening.
If I ever out grow this rig something very similar to what you describe is
probably the next step. Will need to do a 24" wide board (even if more than one
pass) so the arbor size will have to be beefy.

Well you could cheat and support the arbor between the blades. Just use
a narrow bearing and a simple stantion mount.

--
Steve W.

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 19:40:55 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

From what I understand, dem leetle guyses have tiny feetzes and tiny
clawzes on 'em so a single cut with a table saw blade will give them
enough purchase to climb and roost.

That's what I used for my neighbor's bat houses. He tells me he hasn't
seen any occupants yet. shrug

How long has it been up? Current consensus is that if it fails to attract bats
after two years try moving it to a different location. I got lucky and had a
few in a house less than two months after I put it up. Sadly they only stayed a
couple of weeks then left at the same time the slightly larger colony they had
split from left its roost in the eaves of our house.

http://www.fws.gov/Asheville/pdfs/beneficialbats.pdf

Do NOT stain the inside like the idiot from the NWF site suggests.
It's both toxic to animals and the smell will drive them off.

At least they specify water based stain, but some of that stuff stinks too.
Have not tried either yet, but charcoal and homemade 'stain' from walnut husks
are both supposed to work well. Only need to darken the wood that sticks out in
the light and the bottom few inches of each baffle. The rest of the interior
absolutely does not need any paint or stain.
--
William

On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 05:52:24 -0400, William Bagwell
wrote:

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 19:40:55 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

From what I understand, dem leetle guyses have tiny feetzes and tiny
clawzes on 'em so a single cut with a table saw blade will give them
enough purchase to climb and roost.

That's what I used for my neighbor's bat houses. He tells me he hasn't
seen any occupants yet. shrug

How long has it been up? Current consensus is that if it fails to attract bats
after two years try moving it to a different location. I got lucky and had a
few in a house less than two months after I put it up. Sadly they only stayed a
couple of weeks then left at the same time the slightly larger colony they had
split from left its roost in the eaves of our house.

Yeah, they've been up a couple years now. I'll mention it to him.


http://www.fws.gov/Asheville/pdfs/beneficialbats.pdf

Do NOT stain the inside like the idiot from the NWF site suggests.
It's both toxic to animals and the smell will drive them off.

At least they specify water based stain, but some of that stuff stinks too.
Have not tried either yet, but charcoal and homemade 'stain' from walnut husks
are both supposed to work well. Only need to darken the wood that sticks out in
the light and the bottom few inches of each baffle. The rest of the interior
absolutely does not need any paint or stain.

If you're doing this as a talking point for your house, stain.
If you're doing it for the bats, don't.

--
[Television is] the triumph of machine over people.
-- Fred Allen

On Jul 24, 7:57*am, William Bagwell
wrote:
On Sat, 01 Jan 2011 10:51:17 -0500, William Bagwell





wrote:
Need shallow grooves in wood, *lots* of shallow grooves in lots of wood. At
least 48 in each side of dozens of 16 X 24" pieces of plywood and almost as
many boards grooved on only one side.

Remote possibility this will become a recurring need and I will be able to
afford machinery and or custom tooling to make this easy. For now I'm doing a
limited run of prototypes and could resort to cutting them one by one with a
circular saw. Perhaps even two at a time with two blades in a table saw. But
where is the fun in that?

Have access to an old 6" jointer and think modifying the knives with a series
of flats leaving a row of cutting tips spaced approximately 1/2" apart *might*
just work. Cutting at least 12 grooves in one pass.

Looking for ideas that are better than just goobering up a set of jointer
knives with a hand held abrasive blade. Have no free access to a surface
grinder or any machine shop equipment more sophisticated than a worn out
drill-mill combo.

BTW these grooves need to be slightly rough. While I want to avoid splinters
extremely smooth groves are not what I need or want. Nor do I want any radius
at the top or bottom of the grooves. This would defeat the whole purpose of
having grooves for the bats little toenails to grip

Got a lot of helpful replies to this back in January and wanted to update every
one on my glacially slow progress. Ended up grinding 16, 1/4" wide slots in
each jointer knife, two at a time, with a bench grinder. Resulting 1/8" wide
tips do a half way decent job of putting groves in wood which is what I set out
to do.http://alt-config.net/modifiedjointer.htmlScroll down for the metal
related stuff.

Ran a few proto type shells in March then realized I still needed a bunch more
wood working equipment to build baffles in quantities. Next acquisition will be
a thickness planner since all the rough sawn lumber available locally is too
thick, or varies too much, or involves an expensive set up charge, or... Will
also try next door in the wood working group for help on the planner.

Have a few more metal related ideas I want to try eventually but don't need the
distractions at the moment.
--
William- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If you're not looking for a big piece of permanently installed
equipment, have a look at the portable planers. I've got a DeWalt
that works very well for making a stack of blanks uniform, but don't
forget the dust control bits. Even taking off just a 1/64" will bury
you in shavings and dust. I've run hundreds of feet of slats and
nominal 2x without problems other than hitting a staple. Buy extra
blades, too. www.toolking.com sometimes has factory refurbs for
cheap, shipping may get you on that, though. DeWalt now has a rolling
tool base for their portable saws and planers, works pretty well..

Stan

William Bagwell wrote:
How long has it been up? Current consensus is that if it fails to attract bats
after two years try moving it to a different location. ...

My bat story:

When we remodeled, many years ago, some siding and trim was removed from
the house, giving a few very small openings into the attic. The bats
found those openings almost immediately and took up residence. Which we
didn't realize until we finished the remodeling, closing up the
openings, and forcing the bats to exit the attic through the crack under
a door, into the house.

Intending to seize the opportunity to have a bat colony, I made a bat
house and mounted it on the side of our house. It took them 11 YEARS to
take up in that bat house! I guess that my bat house just didn't have
the appeal that the attic did.

Bob

On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 04:41:36 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

If you're not looking for a big piece of permanently installed
equipment, have a look at the portable planers. I've got a DeWalt
that works very well for making a stack of blanks uniform, but don't
forget the dust control bits. Even taking off just a 1/64" will bury
you in shavings and dust. I've run hundreds of feet of slats and
nominal 2x without problems other than hitting a staple. Buy extra
blades, too. www.toolking.com sometimes has factory refurbs for
cheap, shipping may get you on that, though. DeWalt now has a rolling
tool base for their portable saws and planers, works pretty well..

As I mentioned to someone else, I'm looking first at used commercial. (Though
the factory refurbs in your link look good!) Have no 3 phase nor the desire to
fool with converters so full industrial is out unless it so cheap I can afford
to swap the motor. Have looked at the hobbyist grade planers in the local big
box stores (Lowes and Home Depot) and not liking what I'm seeing at all. The
only two speed is the ~$600 DeWalt and it has *way* too much plastic on it for
my tastes. (I work in plastics and have noted that the big machines that make
things out of plastic have very little of the stuff themselves. Makes you
wonder...)

Since I'm going to turn around and put grooves in the wood I want fast over
smooth.
--
William

On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 19:54:43 -0400, William Bagwell wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 04:41:36 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
If you're not looking for a big piece of permanently installed
equipment, have a look at the portable planers. I've got a DeWalt that
works very well for making a stack of blanks uniform, but don't forget
the dust control bits. Even taking off just a 1/64" will bury you in
shavings and dust. I've run hundreds of feet of slats and nominal 2x
without problems other than hitting a staple. Buy extra blades, too.
www.toolking.com sometimes has factory refurbs for cheap, shipping may
get you on that, though. DeWalt now has a rolling tool base for their
portable saws and planers, works pretty well..

As I mentioned to someone else, I'm looking first at used commercial.
(Though the factory refurbs in your link look good!) Have no 3 phase nor
the desire to fool with converters so full industrial is out unless it
so cheap I can afford to swap the motor. Have looked at the hobbyist
grade planers in the local big box stores (Lowes and Home Depot) and not
liking what I'm seeing at all. The only two speed is the ~$600 DeWalt
and it has *way* too much plastic on it for my tastes. (I work in
plastics and have noted that the big machines that make things out of
plastic have very little of the stuff themselves. Makes you wonder...)

Since I'm going to turn around and put grooves in the wood I want fast
over smooth.

As stans4 points out, the planer will produce lots of shavings. Do you
plan to take off 1/4" from 3/4"-thick wood, or more than that? You can
take off about 1/8" per pass, but of course can run 2 or 3 sticks
through at the same time.

If you start with 1"x4"-s, you might consider resawing them on a band
saw. A good bandsaw with tightly-tensioned fast-running blade should
have little trouble resawing 1x4 pine, and a really good bandsaw can
resaw 6"-wide wood ok. You would end up with twice as many square
feet of output from resawing vs planing.

--
jiw