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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Coolant tank materials
Ok... I have cobbled together an idea in my mind for a pressurized coolant
system with relatively easy recovery. Two tanks. One is a pressurized tank for coolant with a pickup near the bottom of the tank. (Also a large drain for flushing). The other is a collection tank for run off from the machine. A large filter assemble keeps chips out of the recovery tank. When the recovery tank starts to get full you close a valve from the filter, open a valve to the pressure vessel, and the pressure equalizes allowing the collected lubricant to flow into the pressure tank. When done just reverse. Close the valve between the tanks and slowly open the one from the filter. A little crude experimentation has shown that relatively low pressure and volume is needed to work a rig like this. You do not even need a fill port on the pressure tank when coolant runs low. Just pour it into the recovery tank. Air pressure does the work. My thoughts are that with pure oil based lubricant coolants (can't use a water based on my mill) there is no risk of ignition. No vapor or mist with a liquid stream, and no potential ignition source as part of the coolant system like a pump motor. My concerns are what materials easily at hand to use for the tanks. Obviously would need to be impervious to oil, and other petroleum distillates and water displacers. Also, not likely to fail catastrophically. I'm thinking aluminum or steel. I would be open to other ideas for materials. I would probably have to make the tanks to size and area available. I know I am probably re-inventing the wheel here, but it's a fun mental exercise if nothing else. |
#2
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Coolant tank materials
On Wed, 6 Jan 2010 10:57:26 -0700, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
My concerns are what materials easily at hand to use for the tanks. A couple of scrap fire extinguishers? Mark Rand RTFM |
#3
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Coolant tank materials
"Mark Rand" wrote in message
... On Wed, 6 Jan 2010 10:57:26 -0700, "Bob La Londe" wrote: My concerns are what materials easily at hand to use for the tanks. A couple of scrap fire extinguishers? That is not a horrible idea at all. Heck they are cheap enough these days for the small ones that I could just waste a couple. I'll have to study how the heads go on and see if there are any elegant applications there. |
#4
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Coolant tank materials
look at "pressure bleeder" for cars, you can buy this already made
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... Ok... I have cobbled together an idea in my mind for a pressurized coolant system with relatively easy recovery. Two tanks. One is a pressurized tank for coolant with a pickup near the bottom of the tank. (Also a large drain for flushing). The other is a collection tank for run off from the machine. A large filter assemble keeps chips out of the recovery tank. When the recovery tank starts to get full you close a valve from the filter, open a valve to the pressure vessel, and the pressure equalizes allowing the collected lubricant to flow into the pressure tank. When done just reverse. Close the valve between the tanks and slowly open the one from the filter. A little crude experimentation has shown that relatively low pressure and volume is needed to work a rig like this. You do not even need a fill port on the pressure tank when coolant runs low. Just pour it into the recovery tank. Air pressure does the work. My thoughts are that with pure oil based lubricant coolants (can't use a water based on my mill) there is no risk of ignition. No vapor or mist with a liquid stream, and no potential ignition source as part of the coolant system like a pump motor. My concerns are what materials easily at hand to use for the tanks. Obviously would need to be impervious to oil, and other petroleum distillates and water displacers. Also, not likely to fail catastrophically. I'm thinking aluminum or steel. I would be open to other ideas for materials. I would probably have to make the tanks to size and area available. I know I am probably re-inventing the wheel here, but it's a fun mental exercise if nothing else. |
#5
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Coolant tank materials
On Jan 6, 5:57*pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
My concerns are what materials easily at hand to use for the tanks. Obviously would need to be impervious to oil, and other petroleum distillates and water displacers. *Also, not likely to fail catastrophically. *I'm thinking aluminum or steel. *I would be open to other ideas for materials. *I would probably have to make the tanks to size and area available. I know I am probably re-inventing the wheel here, but it's a fun mental exercise if nothing else. How big do you want the tanks? What about propane tanks? Either the 5 gallon ones or the little disposable tanks. The five gallon propane tanks have valves that screw into a standard pipe thread. Dan |
#6
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Coolant tank materials
wrote in message
... On Jan 6, 5:57 pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote: My concerns are what materials easily at hand to use for the tanks. Obviously would need to be impervious to oil, and other petroleum distillates and water displacers. Also, not likely to fail catastrophically. I'm thinking aluminum or steel. I would be open to other ideas for materials. I would probably have to make the tanks to size and area available. I know I am probably re-inventing the wheel here, but it's a fun mental exercise if nothing else. How big do you want the tanks? I was think gallon and a half for the pressure tank and about a gallon for the recover tank. What about propane tanks? Not a bad idea. They can certainly stand the pressure if you can get all the goo out of them. Either the 5 gallon ones And there are plenty of them around with the old style valves cheap enough. However, I have never figured out a way one of us ordinary guys can get the stupid valve out. or the little disposable tanks. A little small, but maybe workable gotta think about it. Initially I'll want the whol thing small enough I can move it between my lathe and my mill. If it works I would build two of them. The five gallon propane tanks have valves that screw into a standard pipe thread. If you can get the old valve out. |
#7
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Coolant tank materials
On Jan 6, 6:31*pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
wrote in message ... On Jan 6, 5:57 pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote: My concerns are what materials easily at hand to use for the tanks. Obviously would need to be impervious to oil, and other petroleum distillates and water displacers. *Also, not likely to fail catastrophically. *I'm thinking aluminum or steel. *I would be open to other ideas for materials. *I would probably have to make the tanks to size and area available. I know I am probably re-inventing the wheel here, but it's a fun mental exercise if nothing else. How big do you want the tanks? I was think gallon and a half for the pressure tank and about a gallon for the recover tank. What about propane tanks? Not a bad idea. *They can certainly stand the pressure if you can get all the goo out of them. * Either the 5 gallon ones And there are plenty of them around with the old style valves cheap enough. However, I have never figured out a way one of us ordinary guys can get the stupid valve out. or the little disposable tanks. A little small, but maybe workable gotta think about it. *Initially I'll want the whol thing small enough I can move it between my lathe and my mill. If it works I would build two of them. The five gallon propane tanks have valves that screw into a standard pipe thread. If you can get the old valve out. Maybe the disposable helium or freon tanks. |
#8
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Coolant tank materials
On Jan 6, 11:31*pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
The five gallon propane tanks have valves that screw into a standard pipe thread. If you can get the old valve out. It can be done. I have made air tanks out of a couple of propane tanks. But for the size you want, you might be able to find a couple of stainless steel garden sprayers that are used for spraying weed killer. Dan |
#9
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Coolant tank materials
On Wed, 6 Jan 2010 17:59:50 -0800 (PST), Jesse wrote:
On Jan 6, 6:31*pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote: wrote... On Jan 6, 5:57 pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote: What about propane tanks? Not a bad idea. *They can certainly stand the pressure if you can get all the goo out of them. The trick is neutralizing the methyl mercaptan (sulfur compound) stink without having every homeowner within five miles calling the Fire Department screaming "Gas leak! Big One! Get out here!!!" (Can also be Ethyl Mercaptan or Butyl Mercaptan...) Hydrogen peroxide and chlorine bleach are supposed to neutralize mercaptans - but not both at the same time... Don't let it spill into the earth, or the stink can persist for months. And there are plenty of them around with the old style valves cheap enough. However, I have never figured out a way one of us ordinary guys can get the stupid valve out. Big open end wrench to the square boss on the base of the valve, make your own out of plate with "flare wrench" tangs at the open end to grip all four corners - it's brass, it will round off in a heartbeat if you don't. I saw a factory wrench at one propane dealer (probably from the valve supplier) another one made his own. And you make a big Chain Wrench out of a chain binder to hold the tank steady to a post. It's standard 3/4" NPT, IIRC. You can get weld-on tank bungs from McMaster Carr - you'll need a few 3/4" bungs for the bottom of the top tank to fill into the second, and then other 3/4" bungs for the "outlet" and "drain". And a few smaller ones, 1/4" or 3/8" for the "air fill" and "air vent" for both tanks. If you want to rig a level sight glass, two weld bung fittings, two 90-degree tube X NPT fittings, and some clear polyethylene tube. Then a few chunks of steel angle or tubing welded between the tanks, so the entire weight isn't resting on the nipples and ball valve between the two tanks. or the little disposable tanks. A little small, but maybe workable gotta think about it. *Initially I'll want the whol thing small enough I can move it between my lathe and my mill. If it works I would build two of them. The five gallon propane tanks have valves that screw into a standard pipe thread. If you can get the old valve out. Maybe the disposable helium or freon tanks. Nah, too thin. They are a bit too disposable, they'll rust through without much of an excuse. Plus, you'll have to weld up the rupture disc on the top, or it will rust through right there. -- Bruce -- |
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