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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
Hi folks.
I am trying to repair a vertical woodcutting bandsaw. It is a Crescent/Delta 20" made in "back in the day" When I bought it, the upper wheel axle or shaft was scored from a locked-up bearing. I repaired it by tig brazing and used the saw for a few years. Just recently, the whole shaft broke. A replacement shaft is not availble, so I was planning to make a replacement. I have acess to a lathe, but no heat treating or grinding equipment. The following links are from my first repair.The shaft is 1" in diameter at it's largest and about 9.5" long. http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_shaft_repair.txt http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_001.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_002.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_003.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_005.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_007.jpg I hope to buy a chunk of steel from McMaster-Carr and have at it. They sell a dizzying array of steel alloys, and I dont' know which to choose. Can anyone recommend a type of steel? Can I just machine a shaft and not harden it? Any and all advice appretiated. Thanks, Andy Lynn, MA |
#2
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
On Dec 31, 5:11*pm, andy wrote:
Hi folks. I am trying to repair a vertical woodcutting bandsaw. *It is a Crescent/Delta 20" made in "back in the day" ... Can anyone recommend a type of steel? Can I just machine a shaft and not harden it? *Any and all advice appretiated. Andy Lynn, MA That's how I fixed a 10" Delta, drill rod and new bronze bushings. jsw |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"andy" wrote in message ... Hi folks. I am trying to repair a vertical woodcutting bandsaw. It is a Crescent/Delta 20" made in "back in the day" When I bought it, the upper wheel axle or shaft was scored from a locked-up bearing. I repaired it by tig brazing and used the saw for a few years. Just recently, the whole shaft broke. A replacement shaft is not availble, so I was planning to make a replacement. I have acess to a lathe, but no heat treating or grinding equipment. The following links are from my first repair.The shaft is 1" in diameter at it's largest and about 9.5" long. http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_shaft_repair.txt http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_001.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_002.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_003.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_005.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_007.jpg I hope to buy a chunk of steel from McMaster-Carr and have at it. They sell a dizzying array of steel alloys, and I dont' know which to choose. Can anyone recommend a type of steel? Can I just machine a shaft and not harden it? Any and all advice appretiated. Thanks, Andy Lynn, MA 4140 would be a good choice. Normalized, it's machineable, if not quickly machineable, and has a yield of around 95 kips. You can more than double that in the oil-quenched condition, but single-point turning anything above about Rc 40 requires some good technique. Chances are that the normalized condition will do it for you, but if M-C has some medium-tempered steel, you might try that if you have a rigid lathe and some carbide tools. Just take it slow. Here are properties of various 4000-series alloys. Those are good choices for all but the most extreme applications. Good luck. http://www.matweb.com/Search/Materia...px?GroupID=230 -- Ed Huntress |
#4
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 14:11:08 -0800 (PST), andy
wrote: Hi folks. I am trying to repair a vertical woodcutting bandsaw. It is a Crescent/Delta 20" made in "back in the day" When I bought it, the upper wheel axle or shaft was scored from a locked-up bearing. I repaired it by tig brazing and used the saw for a few years. Just recently, the whole shaft broke. A replacement shaft is not availble, so I was planning to make a replacement. I have acess to a lathe, but no heat treating or grinding equipment. The following links are from my first repair.The shaft is 1" in diameter at it's largest and about 9.5" long. http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_shaft_repair.txt http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_001.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_002.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_003.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_005.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_007.jpg I hope to buy a chunk of steel from McMaster-Carr and have at it. They sell a dizzying array of steel alloys, and I dont' know which to choose. Can anyone recommend a type of steel? Can I just machine a shaft and not harden it? Any and all advice appretiated. I'd use "Stressproof," which is a tradename for AISI 1144. See the bottom of McMaster p.3605. You'll have to start with an oversize piece if the 1" dimension needs to be close to 1.000. My second choice would be 1045 TGP (turned, ground & polished), but only if starting with an accurate OD is a help. McM p.3601 If you want something even stronger, you could use 4140 pre-hard, but at the expense of stability and machinability. McM p.3609 -- Ned Simmons |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
In article
, andy wrote: Hi folks. I am trying to repair a vertical woodcutting bandsaw. It is a Crescent/Delta 20" made in "back in the day" When I bought it, the upper wheel axle or shaft was scored from a locked-up bearing. I repaired it by tig brazing and used the saw for a few years. Just recently, the whole shaft broke. A replacement shaft is not availble, so I was planning to make a replacement. I have acess to a lathe, but no heat treating or grinding equipment. The following links are from my first repair.The shaft is 1" in diameter at it's largest and about 9.5" long. http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_shaft_repair.txt http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_001.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_002.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_003.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_005.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_007.jpg I hope to buy a chunk of steel from McMaster-Carr and have at it. They sell a dizzying array of steel alloys, and I dont' know which to choose. Can anyone recommend a type of steel? Can I just machine a shaft and not harden it? Any and all advice appretiated. Was the shaft ever hard? Try filing the end remote from the TIG brazing. There is a good chance that the shaft is ordinary mild steel, as Delta was making these by the million for small dollars. If mild steel, a leaded steel (like 12L14) would work dandy. Touch the old shaft to a grinder and look at the sparks. This will tell you if the shaft is alloy steel. Joe Gwinn |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
Ed Huntress wrote:
"andy" wrote in message ... Hi folks. I am trying to repair a vertical woodcutting bandsaw. It is a Crescent/Delta 20" made in "back in the day" When I bought it, the upper wheel axle or shaft was scored from a locked-up bearing. I repaired it by tig brazing and used the saw for a few years. Just recently, the whole shaft broke. A replacement shaft is not availble, so I was planning to make a replacement. I have acess to a lathe, but no heat treating or grinding equipment. The following links are from my first repair.The shaft is 1" in diameter at it's largest and about 9.5" long. http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_shaft_repair.txt http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_001.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_002.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_003.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_005.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_007.jpg I hope to buy a chunk of steel from McMaster-Carr and have at it. They sell a dizzying array of steel alloys, and I dont' know which to choose. Can anyone recommend a type of steel? Can I just machine a shaft and not harden it? Any and all advice appretiated. Thanks, Andy Lynn, MA 4140 would be a good choice. Normalized, it's machineable, if not quickly machineable, and has a yield of around 95 kips. -- Ed Huntress I used normalized 4140 for swingarm bushings for my motorcycle . Slow speeds , light cuts , and normal feed rates . Dwell in one spot too long and you'll be grinding the hardened layer off you just created . I used very sharp M35/M42 in a lantern toolpost on an old Logan . Finishes beautifully ... -- Snag "90 FLHTCU "Strider" '39 WLDD "PopCycle" BS 132/SENS/DOF |
#7
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
On Dec 31, 5:49*pm, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
... There is a good chance that the shaft is ordinary mild steel, as Delta was making these by the million for small dollars. *If mild steel, a leaded steel (like 12L14) would work dandy. * Touch the old shaft to a grinder and look at the sparks. *This will tell you if the shaft is alloy steel. Joe Gwinn The original shaft from my 10" Delta files and sparks like mild steel, and the pulley setscrew dug deeply into it. The end shows that it was cut to length with a bandsaw. You could make it from solid drill rod the size of the bearings and sleeve the pulley bore on the large end. I found out the hard way that drill rod needs annealing after a TIG weld. jsw |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"Snag" wrote in message ... Ed Huntress wrote: "andy" wrote in message ... Hi folks. I am trying to repair a vertical woodcutting bandsaw. It is a Crescent/Delta 20" made in "back in the day" When I bought it, the upper wheel axle or shaft was scored from a locked-up bearing. I repaired it by tig brazing and used the saw for a few years. Just recently, the whole shaft broke. A replacement shaft is not availble, so I was planning to make a replacement. I have acess to a lathe, but no heat treating or grinding equipment. The following links are from my first repair.The shaft is 1" in diameter at it's largest and about 9.5" long. http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_shaft_repair.txt http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_001.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_002.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_003.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_005.jpg http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/saw_...repair_007.jpg I hope to buy a chunk of steel from McMaster-Carr and have at it. They sell a dizzying array of steel alloys, and I dont' know which to choose. Can anyone recommend a type of steel? Can I just machine a shaft and not harden it? Any and all advice appretiated. Thanks, Andy Lynn, MA 4140 would be a good choice. Normalized, it's machineable, if not quickly machineable, and has a yield of around 95 kips. -- Ed Huntress I used normalized 4140 for swingarm bushings for my motorcycle . Slow speeds , light cuts , and normal feed rates . Dwell in one spot too long and you'll be grinding the hardened layer off you just created . I used very sharp M35/M42 in a lantern toolpost on an old Logan . Finishes beautifully ... -- Snag Yup, that's been my experience with it, too. I use it because I happen to have a couple of bars of normalized 4140 that were given to me, and I've used it for a number of little shaft jobs, turning it with what is probably M2 -- my ancient stash of Crucible Rex (no number) -- on a 64-year-old South Bend 10L, with a rocker (lantern) toolpost. It cuts nicely. I've also machined pre-hardened 4140, but that was on an old Reed-Prentice lathe with carbide cutters. My SB and I don't do very well on steel harder than Rc 40 or so. I've managed it a couple of times, but not reliably. Anyway, that's a pretty strong steel, and it makes a good high-end solution. Others have recommended Stressproof, which is extra-hard-drawn 1144 with a stress relief heat treatment. It has about the same yield (around 100 kips) as normalized 4140 but only about half the elongation. Better elongation is the primary advantage of 4000 Series over other carbon steels, but it shouldn't make any difference in this application, because if it takes a permanent bend, you're screwed anyway. g I'd use whichever of the two is more readily available. -- Ed Huntress |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
In article
, Jim Wilkins wrote: On Dec 31, 5:49*pm, Joseph Gwinn wrote: ... There is a good chance that the shaft is ordinary mild steel, as Delta was making these by the million for small dollars. *If mild steel, a leaded steel (like 12L14) would work dandy. * Touch the old shaft to a grinder and look at the sparks. *This will tell you if the shaft is alloy steel. Joe Gwinn The original shaft from my 10" Delta files and sparks like mild steel, and the pulley setscrew dug deeply into it. The end shows that it was cut to length with a bandsaw. Bingo. I suspected as much. It's cheaper for Delta to make this part big enough that ordinary steel is good enough, so that's what they did. You could make it from solid drill rod the size of the bearings and sleeve the pulley bore on the large end. I found out the hard way that drill rod needs annealing after a TIG weld. There are lots of alloys used to make drill rod, and some are air hardening. I would just make the new axle from 12L14 (which is a bit stronger than ordinary mild steel like 1018), and put the money and effort into good bearings and accurate fitting to the shaft, so no repeat drama. Joe Gwinn |
#10
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
Ed Huntress wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message I used normalized 4140 for swingarm bushings for my motorcycle . Slow speeds , light cuts , and normal feed rates . Dwell in one spot too long and you'll be grinding the hardened layer off you just created . I used very sharp M35/M42 in a lantern toolpost on an old Logan . Finishes beautifully ... -- Snag Yup, that's been my experience with it, too. I use it because I happen to have a couple of bars of normalized 4140 that were given to me, and I've used it for a number of little shaft jobs, turning it with what is probably M2 -- my ancient stash of Crucible Rex (no number) -- on a 64-year-old South Bend 10L, with a rocker (lantern) toolpost. It cuts nicely. -- Ed Huntress Cabinet shop I useta work at got a new CNC router (4'X12' bed) . I ended up with three pieces of (pretty sure) 4140 that were 2 3/8 to 3 1/4 dia and 6 ft long ... They were part of the shipping bracing ... this stuff throws a spark identical to known 4140 , and hardens exactly like it . I've used about 2 feet ...also got some 3/8" plate brackets an' stuff , same material .. And about 20 feet of 1 1/4 rebar ... hey , ya gonna throw that old chunk of metal away ? Well , throw it MY way ! -- Snag "90 FLHTCU "Strider" '39 WLDD "PopCycle" BS 132/SENS/DOF |
#11
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"Ed Huntress" wrote:
Yup, that's been my experience with it, too. I use it because I happen to have a couple of bars of normalized 4140 that were given to me, and I've used it for a number of little shaft jobs, turning it with what is probably M2 -- my ancient stash of Crucible Rex (no number) -- on a 64-year-old South Bend 10L, with a rocker (lantern) toolpost. It cuts nicely. Is 41L40 much different that 4140? Reason I asked, is I ordered a piece of that to make something and got impatient when I saw it wasn't going to make it to me until 1/4/2010. I really hate turning 1.25" dia stock into 9/16" dia stock but I didn't feel like waiting. 12L14 is a joy btw. Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller |
#12
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"Wes" wrote in message ... "Ed Huntress" wrote: Yup, that's been my experience with it, too. I use it because I happen to have a couple of bars of normalized 4140 that were given to me, and I've used it for a number of little shaft jobs, turning it with what is probably M2 -- my ancient stash of Crucible Rex (no number) -- on a 64-year-old South Bend 10L, with a rocker (lantern) toolpost. It cuts nicely. Is 41L40 much different that 4140? Reason I asked, is I ordered a piece of that to make something and got impatient when I saw it wasn't going to make it to me until 1/4/2010. I really hate turning 1.25" dia stock into 9/16" dia stock but I didn't feel like waiting. 12L14 is a joy btw. Wes 'Don't know about it, Wes, and I've never machined it. If it's as advertised, it must be something like 12L14 is to 1214. If you try it, please let us know how it is. -- Ed Huntress |
#13
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
On Dec 31, 6:43*pm, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
... I would just make the new axle from 12L14 (which is a bit stronger than ordinary mild steel like 1018), and put the money and effort into good bearings and accurate fitting to the shaft, so no repeat drama. Joe Gwinn I forgot to mention that part. Oilite bronze bushings compress when pressed in and probably will have to be reamed to fit. IIRC I pulled the reamer through, with centering shims (tape?) around the shank, so the two holes would line up. Reamers don't always cut well backwards. The 5/8" one I used had been ground on the shank with a round-edged wheel that left enough of an angle on the back end of the flutes to self-center. I have others that are almost square there and make a mess backwards. jsw |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"Ed Huntress" wrote:
'Don't know about it, Wes, and I've never machined it. If it's as advertised, it must be something like 12L14 is to 1214. If you try it, please let us know how it is. I'll thread another tool post stud for grins after I get it. Will post a followup. Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller |
#15
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
Thanks all for the responses. Quick too! I ordered up a piece of 1144
(stress proof) 1.25" diameter. 1" would have been nicer, but I assume tolerance= -0.006 means the piece is smaller than what I need. I checked out all the other steels recommended and "fair machinability" scares me. This shaft has three diameters, and is threaded in two spots. Did I mention that i am a wood guy? I really like this saw however, and will give it my best shot to get it running again. I took the old shaft to the grinder, and the sparks were more "fireworky" than a piece of steel pipe. I assume this means it is an alloy steel of some type. A file cuts into it easily, so it is not hardened. Luckilly there was not a lot of drama when the shaft broke. The blade fell off the machine while cutting, and when I tried to re-mount it, the upper wheel broke free. I will take some photos and post my replacement shaft. Thanks and happy new year! Andy |
#16
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"Snag" wrote in message ... Ed Huntress wrote: "Snag" wrote in message I used normalized 4140 for swingarm bushings for my motorcycle . Slow speeds , light cuts , and normal feed rates . Dwell in one spot too long and you'll be grinding the hardened layer off you just created . I used very sharp M35/M42 in a lantern toolpost on an old Logan . Finishes beautifully ... -- Snag Yup, that's been my experience with it, too. I use it because I happen to have a couple of bars of normalized 4140 that were given to me, and I've used it for a number of little shaft jobs, turning it with what is probably M2 -- my ancient stash of Crucible Rex (no number) -- on a 64-year-old South Bend 10L, with a rocker (lantern) toolpost. It cuts nicely. -- Ed Huntress Cabinet shop I useta work at got a new CNC router (4'X12' bed) . I ended up with three pieces of (pretty sure) 4140 that were 2 3/8 to 3 1/4 dia and 6 ft long ... They were part of the shipping bracing ... this stuff throws a spark identical to known 4140 , and hardens exactly like it . I've used about 2 feet ...also got some 3/8" plate brackets an' stuff , same material . And about 20 feet of 1 1/4 rebar ... hey , ya gonna throw that old chunk of metal away ? Well , throw it MY way ! -- Snag "90 FLHTCU "Strider" '39 WLDD "PopCycle" BS 132/SENS/DOF The 4140 is a useful material to have around, and it's especially good for transportation machines, like your motorcycles. The extra elongation makes it safer in applications where it might be loaded to failure, as in a crash. You can get equal strength in plain carbon steels but not the elongation, which is another way of saying it has good ductility. Even though it has only 40 points of carbon, it will harden and strengthen as if it had a lot more. That's the result of the chromium in the alloy. -- Ed Huntress |
#17
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
In article
, Jim Wilkins wrote: On Dec 31, 6:43*pm, Joseph Gwinn wrote: ... I would just make the new axle from 12L14 (which is a bit stronger than ordinary mild steel like 1018), and put the money and effort into good bearings and accurate fitting to the shaft, so no repeat drama. Joe Gwinn I forgot to mention that part. Oilite bronze bushings compress when pressed in and probably will have to be reamed to fit. IIRC I pulled the reamer through, with centering shims (tape?) around the shank, so the two holes would line up. I don't visualize what you need to do. Nor did I realize that the bearing is oilite. Or was it solid bronze or babbit metal? These are stronger than oilite. Reamers don't always cut well backwards. The 5/8" one I used had been ground on the shank with a round-edged wheel that left enough of an angle on the back end of the flutes to self-center. I have others that are almost square there and make a mess backwards. I would think one would be using a hand reamer. The adjustable ones would allow one to creep up on the dimension. I recall from old books that people used a reamer with a long shaft at one end and a T-handle at the other, plus a bushing that went into the other bearing and accepted the long shaft, ensuring that the two bearings were lined up correctly after reaming to size. While I have not seen such a reamer in present-day catalogs, I haven't looked either. Joe Gwinn |
#18
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"andy" wrote in message ... Thanks all for the responses. Quick too! I ordered up a piece of 1144 (stress proof) 1.25" diameter. Ok, if it's Stressproof(tm), and not just normalized 1144. Stressproof has a yield strength of around 100 kips (thousands of pounds per square inch). Ordinary normalized 1144 yields at 58 kips. That probably will do the job, but if it isn't Stressproof, it's not what you may think you're ordering. 1" would have been nicer, but I assume tolerance= -0.006 means the piece is smaller than what I need. I checked out all the other steels recommended and "fair machinability" scares me. This shaft has three diameters, and is threaded in two spots. Did I mention that i am a wood guy? I really like this saw however, and will give it my best shot to get it running again. I took the old shaft to the grinder, and the sparks were more "fireworky" than a piece of steel pipe. I assume this means it is an alloy steel of some type. A file cuts into it easily, so it is not hardened. More sparks generally mean more carbon. Alloys, in general, make fatter, less-sharp sparks. Although some folks here will disagree, my guess, based on some materials experience, is that the original is a piece of cold-rolled, medium carbon steel. The most likely grade is 1040. That's a very common steel for mass-produced parts that have to withstand a medium load. It's probably the most common steel used for machinery parts, and it's even used for things that we think are very demanding, like the shafts on McPherson struts. As a rule I go upscale from what I think the original is, if I'm machining a replacement part for something. 1020 may do the job but I'm not going to machine a part twice to find out, when I could have used stronger steel and done the job once. Luckilly there was not a lot of drama when the shaft broke. The blade fell off the machine while cutting, and when I tried to re-mount it, the upper wheel broke free. I will take some photos and post my replacement shaft. Thanks and happy new year! Andy Happy New Year to you, too, Andy. And good luck making the part! -- Ed Huntress |
#19
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
On Dec 31, 9:12*pm, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
*Jim Wilkins wrote: ... I would think one would be using a hand reamer. *The adjustable ones would allow one to creep up on the dimension. *I recall from old books that people used a reamer with a long shaft at one end and a T-handle at the other, plus a bushing that went into the other bearing and accepted the long shaft, ensuring that the two bearings were lined up correctly after reaming to size. While I have not seen such a reamer in present-day catalogs, I haven't looked either. Joe Gwinn This is a machine reamer with a setscrew flat on the shank. I turned it by hand with a Crescent wrench. It was second hand and may have been modified to go on a turret lathe. It wasn't meant for the use you described but it worked. The shaft could be turned to fit after reaming, or even turned small to the unreamed size. It's much easier to fine tune the shaft diameter with a lathe than the hole size with a reamer. I assume the bandsaw has pressed-in bronze bushings like mine since the shaft looked similar. jsw |
#20
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
In article
, Jim Wilkins wrote: On Dec 31, 9:12*pm, Joseph Gwinn wrote: *Jim Wilkins wrote: ... I would think one would be using a hand reamer. *The adjustable ones would allow one to creep up on the dimension. *I recall from old books that people used a reamer with a long shaft at one end and a T-handle at the other, plus a bushing that went into the other bearing and accepted the long shaft, ensuring that the two bearings were lined up correctly after reaming to size. While I have not seen such a reamer in present-day catalogs, I haven't looked either. Joe Gwinn This is a machine reamer with a setscrew flat on the shank. I turned it by hand with a Crescent wrench. It was second hand and may have been modified to go on a turret lathe. It wasn't meant for the use you described but it worked. If I picture this, you used the long straight shank of the reamer (plus a bushing?) as the pilot shaft in the other bearing to ensure that bearing being reamed lines up with pilot-shaft bearing? The shaft could be turned to fit after reaming, or even turned small to the unreamed size. It's much easier to fine tune the shaft diameter with a lathe than the hole size with a reamer. I assume the bandsaw has pressed-in bronze bushings like mine since the shaft looked similar. That was the implication, and the pictures of the upper axle tend to support this. Too old to be built with ball bearings. Joe Gwinn |
#21
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 12:12:31 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote: That was the implication, and the pictures of the upper axle tend to support this. Too old to be built with ball bearings. The ball bearings and locknuts are shown in the first photo, but the appearance of the bearing housing does suggest that the saw was originally designed with babbitt or bronze bearings. I had a 36" Crescent saw that I bought at an auction of a furniture factory in VT in 1980 or so. I was surprised when I removed the wheels to move the saw that it had needle bearings where I expected to find babbitt, so I don't think it was unusual for a mfr to make this sort of change while continuing to reuse the old castings. This is the same Crescent saw that I had, but it's old enough that it has babbitt bearings. http://wiki.owwm.com/Default.aspx?Pa...ookieSupport=1 -- Ned Simmons |
#22
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
On Jan 1, 12:12*pm, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
*Jim Wilkins wrote: ... If I picture this, you used the long straight shank of the reamer (plus a bushing?) as the pilot shaft in the other bearing to ensure that bearing being reamed lines up with pilot-shaft bearing? ... Joe Gwinn Yes. I fixed the bandsaw about 20 years ago and don't remember it as well as the brass bearings on my front end loader, so I may be mixing the two jobs. The 'bushing' on the reamer shank was probably a thick layer of aluminum auto body tape. Some reamers work better than others backwards. They are ground with a bevel on the normal leading end and may have a short, imperceptible taper on the cutting edges. Without these they can chatter or not cut concentric with the drilled hole. I have a tool and cutter grinding setup that can bevel them to cut backwards. Presumably few others do and I don't know a good way to grind a reamer by hand. Lautard(?) mentioned a honing fixture for them but it doesn't control diameter. You can make a D bit that serves as a reamer with simple equipment, possibly only a bench grinder. If you make it on the end of drill rod you can use the rod as the pilot. I think you would have to press in only one bearing first and bush the drill rod to the other opening. After reaming the first bearing you could use it to guide the rod for reaming the second. I'm using my HDTV as the laptop's display since it shows two full .pdf pages at once. It's fine for reading (a download of Holtzapffel book1), sort of awkward for typing because it's so far out of line with the keyboard. Sorry for any missed typos. jsw |
#23
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
In article ,
Ned Simmons wrote: On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 12:12:31 -0500, Joseph Gwinn wrote: That was the implication, and the pictures of the upper axle tend to support this. Too old to be built with ball bearings. The ball bearings and locknuts are shown in the first photo, but the appearance of the bearing housing does suggest that the saw was originally designed with babbitt or bronze bearings. I had a 36" Crescent saw that I bought at an auction of a furniture factory in VT in 1980 or so. I was surprised when I removed the wheels to move the saw that it had needle bearings where I expected to find babbitt, so I don't think it was unusual for a mfr to make this sort of change while continuing to reuse the old castings. This is the same Crescent saw that I had, but it's old enough that it has babbitt bearings. http://wiki.owwm.com/Default.aspx?Page=CrescentBandSawRestoration1&Aspx AutoDetectCookieSupport=1 Very interesting webpage. I assume that the "Georgia Agrirama" is a museum. Joe Gwinn |
#24
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message ... "Ed wrote: Yup, that's been my experience with it, too. I use it because I happen to have a couple of bars of normalized 4140 that were given to me, and I've used it for a number of little shaft jobs, turning it with what is probably M2 -- my ancient stash of Crucible Rex (no number) -- on a 64-year-old South Bend 10L, with a rocker (lantern) toolpost. It cuts nicely. Is 41L40 much different that 4140? Reason I asked, is I ordered a piece of that to make something and got impatient when I saw it wasn't going to make it to me until 1/4/2010. I really hate turning 1.25" dia stock into 9/16" dia stock but I didn't feel like waiting. 12L14 is a joy btw. Wes 'Don't know about it, Wes, and I've never machined it. If it's as advertised, it must be something like 12L14 is to 1214. If you try it, please let us know how it is. 41L40 has lead in it to make machining easier. It is not recommended to weld because of the lead. 4140 can be easy or hard to cut depending on the sulfur content. I think the max allowable sulfur is .2% The more sulfur the harder it is to weld it, but the easier it is to machine it. If you get a piece with no sulfur in it machining will be miserable. John |
#25
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
andy wrote:
Thanks all for the responses. Quick too! I ordered up a piece of 1144 (stress proof) 1.25" diameter. 1" would have been nicer, but I assume tolerance= -0.006 means the piece is smaller than what I need. I checked out all the other steels recommended and "fair machinability" scares me. This shaft has three diameters, and is threaded in two spots. Did I mention that i am a wood guy? I really like this saw however, and will give it my best shot to get it running again. I took the old shaft to the grinder, and the sparks were more "fireworky" than a piece of steel pipe. I assume this means it is an alloy steel of some type. A file cuts into it easily, so it is not hardened. Luckilly there was not a lot of drama when the shaft broke. The blade fell off the machine while cutting, and when I tried to re-mount it, the upper wheel broke free. I will take some photos and post my replacement shaft. Thanks and happy new year! Andy The sparks are an indication of carbon content in the steel. If the sparks were more numerous than the steel pipe but of the same general color and shape, you probably had a shaft of 1045 steel. Alloy steel usually sparks less than mild steel. Try grinding the end of an old file and see the sparks. The file is usually 1090 steel, the xx90 indicating 90 points of carbon. John |
#26
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"john" wrote in message ... Ed Huntress wrote: wrote in message ... "Ed wrote: Yup, that's been my experience with it, too. I use it because I happen to have a couple of bars of normalized 4140 that were given to me, and I've used it for a number of little shaft jobs, turning it with what is probably M2 -- my ancient stash of Crucible Rex (no number) -- on a 64-year-old South Bend 10L, with a rocker (lantern) toolpost. It cuts nicely. Is 41L40 much different that 4140? Reason I asked, is I ordered a piece of that to make something and got impatient when I saw it wasn't going to make it to me until 1/4/2010. I really hate turning 1.25" dia stock into 9/16" dia stock but I didn't feel like waiting. 12L14 is a joy btw. Wes 'Don't know about it, Wes, and I've never machined it. If it's as advertised, it must be something like 12L14 is to 1214. If you try it, please let us know how it is. 41L40 has lead in it to make machining easier. It is not recommended to weld because of the lead. 4140 can be easy or hard to cut depending on the sulfur content. I think the max allowable sulfur is .2% The more sulfur the harder it is to weld it, but the easier it is to machine it. If you get a piece with no sulfur in it machining will be miserable. John Huh. It's interesting that a strict alloy like 4140 would allow enough difference in sulfur to have much effect on machineability. It's not something I have a lot of experience with, and most that I've turned probably all came from the same batch. -- Ed Huntress |
#27
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"Ed Huntress" wrote:
"Wes" wrote in message ... "Ed Huntress" wrote: Yup, that's been my experience with it, too. I use it because I happen to have a couple of bars of normalized 4140 that were given to me, and I've used it for a number of little shaft jobs, turning it with what is probably M2 -- my ancient stash of Crucible Rex (no number) -- on a 64-year-old South Bend 10L, with a rocker (lantern) toolpost. It cuts nicely. Is 41L40 much different that 4140? Reason I asked, is I ordered a piece of that to make something and got impatient when I saw it wasn't going to make it to me until 1/4/2010. I really hate turning 1.25" dia stock into 9/16" dia stock but I didn't feel like waiting. 12L14 is a joy btw. Wes 'Don't know about it, Wes, and I've never machined it. If it's as advertised, it must be something like 12L14 is to 1214. If you try it, please let us know how it is. I think I'm going to turn it into bolts for my RGG gatling gun. I turned some 1144 today at work. That was pretty nice to work with. Not sure how this thread got brought back to life. Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller |
#28
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"Wes" wrote in message ... "Ed Huntress" wrote: "Wes" wrote in message ... "Ed Huntress" wrote: Yup, that's been my experience with it, too. I use it because I happen to have a couple of bars of normalized 4140 that were given to me, and I've used it for a number of little shaft jobs, turning it with what is probably M2 -- my ancient stash of Crucible Rex (no number) -- on a 64-year-old South Bend 10L, with a rocker (lantern) toolpost. It cuts nicely. Is 41L40 much different that 4140? Reason I asked, is I ordered a piece of that to make something and got impatient when I saw it wasn't going to make it to me until 1/4/2010. I really hate turning 1.25" dia stock into 9/16" dia stock but I didn't feel like waiting. 12L14 is a joy btw. Wes 'Don't know about it, Wes, and I've never machined it. If it's as advertised, it must be something like 12L14 is to 1214. If you try it, please let us know how it is. I think I'm going to turn it into bolts for my RGG gatling gun. I turned some 1144 today at work. That was pretty nice to work with. Now, what in the HELL are you going to do with a Gatling gun? Are you doing Civil War re-enactments, or are you joining the Michigan Militia? g Not sure how this thread got brought back to life. Somebody just checks in every once in a while, probably. -- Ed Huntress |
#29
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message ... Ed Huntress wrote: wrote in message ... "Ed wrote: Yup, that's been my experience with it, too. I use it because I happen to have a couple of bars of normalized 4140 that were given to me, and I've used it for a number of little shaft jobs, turning it with what is probably M2 -- my ancient stash of Crucible Rex (no number) -- on a 64-year-old South Bend 10L, with a rocker (lantern) toolpost. It cuts nicely. Is 41L40 much different that 4140? Reason I asked, is I ordered a piece of that to make something and got impatient when I saw it wasn't going to make it to me until 1/4/2010. I really hate turning 1.25" dia stock into 9/16" dia stock but I didn't feel like waiting. 12L14 is a joy btw. Wes 'Don't know about it, Wes, and I've never machined it. If it's as advertised, it must be something like 12L14 is to 1214. If you try it, please let us know how it is. 41L40 has lead in it to make machining easier. It is not recommended to weld because of the lead. 4140 can be easy or hard to cut depending on the sulfur content. I think the max allowable sulfur is .2% The more sulfur the harder it is to weld it, but the easier it is to machine it. If you get a piece with no sulfur in it machining will be miserable. John Huh. It's interesting that a strict alloy like 4140 would allow enough difference in sulfur to have much effect on machineability. It's not something I have a lot of experience with, and most that I've turned probably all came from the same batch. I learned about the sulfur from hard experience. I was running a job making pins from 4140 and the job was going good. I would make about 500 at a run. Well one run was giving me a lot of grief. busting inserts, not holding size, and a bunch of other problems. I tested the hardness and checked the certs. I had the metal assayed and it agreed with the certs papers. The only thing different in this batch of material was that it had absolutely no sulfur content in it. ( it came from Romania) I guess the sulfur gives the necessary lubrication to make cutting it easy. John |
#30
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"John" wrote in message ... Ed Huntress wrote: wrote in message ... Ed Huntress wrote: wrote in message ... "Ed wrote: Yup, that's been my experience with it, too. I use it because I happen to have a couple of bars of normalized 4140 that were given to me, and I've used it for a number of little shaft jobs, turning it with what is probably M2 -- my ancient stash of Crucible Rex (no number) -- on a 64-year-old South Bend 10L, with a rocker (lantern) toolpost. It cuts nicely. Is 41L40 much different that 4140? Reason I asked, is I ordered a piece of that to make something and got impatient when I saw it wasn't going to make it to me until 1/4/2010. I really hate turning 1.25" dia stock into 9/16" dia stock but I didn't feel like waiting. 12L14 is a joy btw. Wes 'Don't know about it, Wes, and I've never machined it. If it's as advertised, it must be something like 12L14 is to 1214. If you try it, please let us know how it is. 41L40 has lead in it to make machining easier. It is not recommended to weld because of the lead. 4140 can be easy or hard to cut depending on the sulfur content. I think the max allowable sulfur is .2% The more sulfur the harder it is to weld it, but the easier it is to machine it. If you get a piece with no sulfur in it machining will be miserable. John Huh. It's interesting that a strict alloy like 4140 would allow enough difference in sulfur to have much effect on machineability. It's not something I have a lot of experience with, and most that I've turned probably all came from the same batch. I learned about the sulfur from hard experience. I was running a job making pins from 4140 and the job was going good. I would make about 500 at a run. Well one run was giving me a lot of grief. busting inserts, not holding size, and a bunch of other problems. I tested the hardness and checked the certs. I had the metal assayed and it agreed with the certs papers. The only thing different in this batch of material was that it had absolutely no sulfur content in it. ( it came from Romania) I guess the sulfur gives the necessary lubrication to make cutting it easy. John Yes, and it doesn't take much sulfur. There are two ways to introduce it into a steel alloy, and one method, called "microalloying," produces a big gain in machineability with small amounts of sulfur. But it doesn't just happen by dumping in some sulfur. I don't remember what the microalloying is all about, but it requires a specific process. Lead and bismuth are other elements added to improve machineability. And some screw-machine stock, made for applications where lead and sulfur can't be tolerated, gets a machineability boost from the addition of calcium. In the late '70s, calcium-containing alloys became popular for making a lot of automobile parts. -- Ed Huntress |
#31
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message ... "Ed wrote: wrote in message ... "Ed wrote: Yup, that's been my experience with it, too. I use it because I happen to have a couple of bars of normalized 4140 that were given to me, and I've used it for a number of little shaft jobs, turning it with what is probably M2 -- my ancient stash of Crucible Rex (no number) -- on a 64-year-old South Bend 10L, with a rocker (lantern) toolpost. It cuts nicely. Is 41L40 much different that 4140? Reason I asked, is I ordered a piece of that to make something and got impatient when I saw it wasn't going to make it to me until 1/4/2010. I really hate turning 1.25" dia stock into 9/16" dia stock but I didn't feel like waiting. 12L14 is a joy btw. Wes 'Don't know about it, Wes, and I've never machined it. If it's as advertised, it must be something like 12L14 is to 1214. If you try it, please let us know how it is. I think I'm going to turn it into bolts for my RGG gatling gun. I turned some 1144 today at work. That was pretty nice to work with. Now, what in the HELL are you going to do with a Gatling gun? Are you doing Civil War re-enactments, or are you joining the Michigan Militia?g Not sure how this thread got brought back to life. Somebody just checks in every once in a while, probably. It was me not paying attention to the dates of the last post. The bandsaw axle sort of got my attention. I bought a DoAll model C-80 out of the scrap yard for 400 bucks a while ago and had to make new spindles for it. The bearings had spun on the axles and they had to be replaced as well as the bearings. The metal I used was from some of the scrap of the pins I made of the 4140. I still have a barrel full of the out of tol. pins accumulated over the years. I just used another piece today to make up a lathe chuck wrench. By the way to get a good finish on the metal you have to take at least ten thou. per side and turn at least 300 ft/min. John John |
#32
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"John" wrote in message ... Ed Huntress wrote: wrote in message ... "Ed wrote: wrote in message ... "Ed wrote: Yup, that's been my experience with it, too. I use it because I happen to have a couple of bars of normalized 4140 that were given to me, and I've used it for a number of little shaft jobs, turning it with what is probably M2 -- my ancient stash of Crucible Rex (no number) -- on a 64-year-old South Bend 10L, with a rocker (lantern) toolpost. It cuts nicely. Is 41L40 much different that 4140? Reason I asked, is I ordered a piece of that to make something and got impatient when I saw it wasn't going to make it to me until 1/4/2010. I really hate turning 1.25" dia stock into 9/16" dia stock but I didn't feel like waiting. 12L14 is a joy btw. Wes 'Don't know about it, Wes, and I've never machined it. If it's as advertised, it must be something like 12L14 is to 1214. If you try it, please let us know how it is. I think I'm going to turn it into bolts for my RGG gatling gun. I turned some 1144 today at work. That was pretty nice to work with. Now, what in the HELL are you going to do with a Gatling gun? Are you doing Civil War re-enactments, or are you joining the Michigan Militia?g Not sure how this thread got brought back to life. Somebody just checks in every once in a while, probably. It was me not paying attention to the dates of the last post. The bandsaw axle sort of got my attention. I bought a DoAll model C-80 out of the scrap yard for 400 bucks a while ago and had to make new spindles for it. The bearings had spun on the axles and they had to be replaced as well as the bearings. The metal I used was from some of the scrap of the pins I made of the 4140. I still have a barrel full of the out of tol. pins accumulated over the years. I just used another piece today to make up a lathe chuck wrench. By the way to get a good finish on the metal you have to take at least ten thou. per side and turn at least 300 ft/min. John Is that the 4140 without sulfur? It's been so long since I've turned that alloy that I can hardly remember it. -- Ed Huntress |
#33
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
It was me not paying attention to the dates of the last post. The bandsaw axle sort of got my attention. I bought a DoAll model C-80 out of the scrap yard for 400 bucks a while ago and had to make new spindles for it. The bearings had spun on the axles and they had to be replaced as well as the bearings. The metal I used was from some of the scrap of the pins I made of the 4140. I still have a barrel full of the out of tol. pins accumulated over the years. I just used another piece today to make up a lathe chuck wrench. By the way to get a good finish on the metal you have to take at least ten thou. per side and turn at least 300 ft/min. John Is that the 4140 without sulfur? It's been so long since I've turned that alloy that I can hardly remember it. I switched suppliers after that bad batch and had no more problems with cutting the metal. We had to supply certifications so I kept an eye on the sulfur content and made sure it was always on the high end of the limits. It ran on the high end of the permitted amounts, I only machined it and didn't weld on it. I think the percentage ran about .18 At that percentage it would run well at those speeds. The part we ran required holding +/- .0005 in. on 6 inch turn and once the machine stabilized it ran all day with almost no scrap. The only problem was the air chuck would sometimes not hold the piece properly and it would slip if we had the feed or rpm running too high. I made thousands of those parts. |
#34
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"John" wrote in message ... It was me not paying attention to the dates of the last post. The bandsaw axle sort of got my attention. I bought a DoAll model C-80 out of the scrap yard for 400 bucks a while ago and had to make new spindles for it. The bearings had spun on the axles and they had to be replaced as well as the bearings. The metal I used was from some of the scrap of the pins I made of the 4140. I still have a barrel full of the out of tol. pins accumulated over the years. I just used another piece today to make up a lathe chuck wrench. By the way to get a good finish on the metal you have to take at least ten thou. per side and turn at least 300 ft/min. John Is that the 4140 without sulfur? It's been so long since I've turned that alloy that I can hardly remember it. I switched suppliers after that bad batch and had no more problems with cutting the metal. We had to supply certifications so I kept an eye on the sulfur content and made sure it was always on the high end of the limits. It ran on the high end of the permitted amounts, I only machined it and didn't weld on it. I think the percentage ran about .18 At that percentage it would run well at those speeds. The part we ran required holding +/- .0005 in. on 6 inch turn and once the machine stabilized it ran all day with almost no scrap. The only problem was the air chuck would sometimes not hold the piece properly and it would slip if we had the feed or rpm running too high. I made thousands of those parts. Machining a lot of metal in batch- or continuous production really gives one a feel for subtleties that we don't usually pick up in ordinary hobby machining. If you made thousands, you must really know the material. Note what Don reported about the standard for sulfur content in 4140 -- 0.040% maximum. Another thing that shows up is slight "modifications" to standard alloy specifications, sometimes done for a good reason. You may have run into one of those circumstances. I've heard of 4000-series alloys that contained more chromium and less carbon than the specs require, for the purpose of meeting the elongation specification, which apparently is not easy. But, like most technical things about materials, I haven't spoken to metallurgical engineers for decades. It used to be a major part of my job. -- Ed Huntress |
#35
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"Ed Huntress" wrote:
I think I'm going to turn it into bolts for my RGG gatling gun. I turned some 1144 today at work. That was pretty nice to work with. Now, what in the HELL are you going to do with a Gatling gun? Are you doing Civil War re-enactments, or are you joining the Michigan Militia? g It is only a .22 . Maybe mount motors and a search/acquisition radar and it could be a Phalanx Close-In Weapons System (CIWS) for Michigan Mosquitoes. Caliber might be a bit small though. Wes |
#36
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"Wes" wrote in message ... "Ed Huntress" wrote: I think I'm going to turn it into bolts for my RGG gatling gun. I turned some 1144 today at work. That was pretty nice to work with. Now, what in the HELL are you going to do with a Gatling gun? Are you doing Civil War re-enactments, or are you joining the Michigan Militia? g It is only a .22 . Maybe mount motors and a search/acquisition radar and it could be a Phalanx Close-In Weapons System (CIWS) for Michigan Mosquitoes. Caliber might be a bit small though. Wes I'll bet you're going to be hell on rabbits. They'll be pre-tenderized. g -- Ed Huntress |
#37
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Steel recomendations for bandsaw axle
"Ed Huntress" wrote:
I'll bet you're going to be hell on rabbits. They'll be pre-tenderized. g The sad thing is, rabbits are not very plentiful where I live. We have too many coyotes now. I wish I had the patience for hunting coyote. Wes |
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