Is this a good deal ?

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/tls/1404924594.html

Best Regards
Tom.

On Sat, 3 Oct 2009 17:01:48 -0700, the infamous "azotic"
scrawled the following:

Is this a good deal ?

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/tls/1404924594.html

Maybe. I just failed to sell the old frozen Lincoon SAE-300
for $299. A guy who saw the ad and didn't bid is coming over tomorrow
to see it, though. I'd like to get at least $200 out of it, but I'll
settle for scrap price if needed. sigh

Bids?

--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all
progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

Good possibility it is a Lincoln SA-200. One of those in somewhat
running condition and without MAJOR issues like an extremely tired
engine might be worth the $350 or much more. Or much less. If the engine
works, doesn't smoke too bad, and it welds (more or less), it should be
worth the money.

azotic wrote:
Is this a good deal ?

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/tls/1404924594.html

Best Regards
Tom.

On Sat, 03 Oct 2009 18:55:43 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 3 Oct 2009 17:01:48 -0700, the infamous "azotic"
scrawled the following:

Is this a good deal ?

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/tls/1404924594.html

Maybe. I just failed to sell the old frozen Lincoon SAE-300
for $299. A guy who saw the ad and didn't bid is coming over tomorrow
to see it, though. I'd like to get at least $200 out of it, but I'll
settle for scrap price if needed. sigh

Bids?


Crap~ Is that thing still unsold? Know anyone coming down to
California that can haul it? Ill swap you something worth more than you
are asking for it, and help with some gas money.


Gunner, who's Miller Trailblazer 55G is being rebuilt


Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

No running time meter.

Here is the manual for the SA-200
http://content.lincolnelectric.com//...r/im/IM142.pdf

A couple of things:
The Continental engine is a tough old beast, easy to work on, but parts
are expensive.

The 120 volt plug is DC, you can run lights and power tools with brushes
but not anything with an AC motor.

For that price, I'd just fire it up with a heavy rod and see if it
works. Assume the engine will last forever in hobbyist use, plan on a
rebuild if you use it commercially.

azotic wrote:
"RoyJ" wrote in message
m...
Good possibility it is a Lincoln SA-200. One of those in somewhat running
condition and without MAJOR issues like an extremely tired engine might be
worth the $350 or much more. Or much less. If the engine works, doesn't
smoke too bad, and it welds (more or less), it should be worth the money.

azotic wrote:
Is this a good deal ?

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/tls/1404924594.html

Best Regards
Tom.

Gonna check it out, take some tools with me. I figure
a quick compression test should give some indication
of how worn the engine is. Anyone know if these welders
have a hour meter and where its located ?

Best Regards
Tom.

"RoyJ" wrote in message
m...
Good possibility it is a Lincoln SA-200. One of those in somewhat running
condition and without MAJOR issues like an extremely tired engine might be
worth the $350 or much more. Or much less. If the engine works, doesn't
smoke too bad, and it welds (more or less), it should be worth the money.

azotic wrote:
Is this a good deal ?

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/tls/1404924594.html

Best Regards
Tom.

I bought one for $350, and ended up putting $600 in it. Main thing is to
see if it will crank, and the engine will turn. After that, you have to run
the engine to test the electrical components. If it runs and the generator
is good, you can fix all the rest of the stuff for not a lot of money. The
circuit board is $100. The other stuff is just mechanical. Make sure it's
all there. The Continental engines that were put in there are just about
bulletproof.

Steve

"azotic" wrote in message
...

"RoyJ" wrote in message
m...
Good possibility it is a Lincoln SA-200. One of those in somewhat running
condition and without MAJOR issues like an extremely tired engine might
be worth the $350 or much more. Or much less. If the engine works,
doesn't smoke too bad, and it welds (more or less), it should be worth
the money.

azotic wrote:
Is this a good deal ?

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/tls/1404924594.html

Best Regards
Tom.

Gonna check it out, take some tools with me. I figure
a quick compression test should give some indication
of how worn the engine is. Anyone know if these welders
have a hour meter and where its located ?

Best Regards
Tom.

Most did not. It will be on the end panel if one is there. Does this have
a red or black end panel? The reds are older and worth more.

Steve

"RoyJ" wrote in message
m...
No running time meter.

Here is the manual for the SA-200
http://content.lincolnelectric.com//...r/im/IM142.pdf

A couple of things:
The Continental engine is a tough old beast, easy to work on, but parts
are expensive.

The 120 volt plug is DC, you can run lights and power tools with brushes
but not anything with an AC motor.

For that price, I'd just fire it up with a heavy rod and see if it works.
Assume the engine will last forever in hobbyist use, plan on a rebuild if
you use it commercially.

azotic wrote:
"RoyJ" wrote in message
m...
Good possibility it is a Lincoln SA-200. One of those in somewhat
running condition and without MAJOR issues like an extremely tired
engine might be worth the $350 or much more. Or much less. If the engine
works, doesn't smoke too bad, and it welds (more or less), it should be
worth the money.

azotic wrote:
Is this a good deal ?

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/tls/1404924594.html

Best Regards
Tom.

Gonna check it out, take some tools with me. I figure
a quick compression test should give some indication
of how worn the engine is. Anyone know if these welders
have a hour meter and where its located ?

Best Regards
Tom.

If the exciter and electric circuit are fried, you can buy a digital tach
from Northern tools for $30, and run it at 1450, making a mechanical
linkage. Either idle or 1450. That is what I did, figuring I'd do it until
I got it all fixed. Now, it works so good, I am just going to leave it like
that. I already have it sold for $1,000 if I ever want to sell it.

Steve

On Sun, 04 Oct 2009 08:51:44 -0600, SteveB wrote:
"RoyJ" ... wrote [...]
http://content.lincolnelectric.com//...r/im/IM142.pdf

A couple of things:
The Continental engine is a tough old beast, easy to work on, but parts
are expensive.

The 120 volt plug is DC, you can run lights and power tools with
brushes but not anything with an AC motor.

For that price, I'd just fire it up with a heavy rod and see if it
works. Assume the engine will last forever in hobbyist use, plan on a
rebuild if you use it commercially.

azotic wrote:
"RoyJ" ... wrote [...]
azotic wrote:
Is this a good deal ?
http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/tls/1404924594.html

Gonna check it out, take some tools with me. I figure a quick
compression test should give some indication of how worn the engine
is. Anyone know if these welders have a hour meter and where its
located ?

If the exciter and electric circuit are fried, you can buy a digital
tach from Northern tools for $30, and run it at 1450, making a
mechanical linkage. Either idle or 1450. That is what I did, figuring
I'd do it until I got it all fixed. Now, it works so good, I am just
going to leave it like that. I already have it sold for $1,000 if I
ever want to sell it.

If you mean one of
http://www2.northerntool.com/engines/small-engine-accessories/item-160590.htm
http://www2.northerntool.com/engines/small-engine-accessories/item-160595.htm
looks like the price has gone up $10.

By mechanical linkage, you mean something like a hand controlled
throttle lever, or some kind of actuator where the tach controls
the throttle?

--
jiw

"James Waldby" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 04 Oct 2009 08:51:44 -0600, SteveB wrote:
"RoyJ" ... wrote [...]
http://content.lincolnelectric.com//...r/im/IM142.pdf

A couple of things:
The Continental engine is a tough old beast, easy to work on, but parts
are expensive.

The 120 volt plug is DC, you can run lights and power tools with
brushes but not anything with an AC motor.

For that price, I'd just fire it up with a heavy rod and see if it
works. Assume the engine will last forever in hobbyist use, plan on a
rebuild if you use it commercially.

azotic wrote:
"RoyJ" ... wrote [...]
azotic wrote:
Is this a good deal ?
http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/tls/1404924594.html

Gonna check it out, take some tools with me. I figure a quick
compression test should give some indication of how worn the engine
is. Anyone know if these welders have a hour meter and where its
located ?

If the exciter and electric circuit are fried, you can buy a digital
tach from Northern tools for $30, and run it at 1450, making a
mechanical linkage. Either idle or 1450. That is what I did, figuring
I'd do it until I got it all fixed. Now, it works so good, I am just
going to leave it like that. I already have it sold for $1,000 if I
ever want to sell it.

If you mean one of
http://www2.northerntool.com/engines/small-engine-accessories/item-160590.htm
http://www2.northerntool.com/engines/small-engine-accessories/item-160595.htm
looks like the price has gone up $10.

By mechanical linkage, you mean something like a hand controlled
throttle lever, or some kind of actuator where the tach controls
the throttle?

--
jiw

Solid rod. Either idle or pull it and set it in stop, and it's at 1450.
When you're done welding, or go back to idle, pull the rod out of the slot.
If you try to start it with the rod left in that position, it is difficult
to start. Like I said, works fine. I found out the operating RPM of the
engine, and bought a tach to set it to that rpm. Yes, the exciter circuit
board and everything working together would be nice, but I'd rather spend
$100 (maybe more, the Lincoln guy said if everything was smoked it would be
$300) for something else.

That IS the tach I got from NT. But once I had the rpm set, it was not
necessary, and it would have just sat out in the weather, so I pulled it off
after using it a short time. Four modes. ON, idle, run, and OFF.

Ran some 7018 the other day, and it sure looks purty. I'm going to do some
6011 stinger negative soon to weld some hangers to the thin metal in my
container. Will see just how low this machine will go.

Steve