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SteveB[_9_] SteveB[_9_] is offline
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Default Craigslist pipeline welder


"James Waldby" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 04 Oct 2009 08:51:44 -0600, SteveB wrote:
"RoyJ" ... wrote [...]
http://content.lincolnelectric.com//...r/im/IM142.pdf

A couple of things:
The Continental engine is a tough old beast, easy to work on, but parts
are expensive.

The 120 volt plug is DC, you can run lights and power tools with
brushes but not anything with an AC motor.

For that price, I'd just fire it up with a heavy rod and see if it
works. Assume the engine will last forever in hobbyist use, plan on a
rebuild if you use it commercially.

azotic wrote:
"RoyJ" ... wrote [...]
azotic wrote:
Is this a good deal ?
http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/tls/1404924594.html


Gonna check it out, take some tools with me. I figure a quick
compression test should give some indication of how worn the engine
is. Anyone know if these welders have a hour meter and where its
located ?


If the exciter and electric circuit are fried, you can buy a digital
tach from Northern tools for $30, and run it at 1450, making a
mechanical linkage. Either idle or 1450. That is what I did, figuring
I'd do it until I got it all fixed. Now, it works so good, I am just
going to leave it like that. I already have it sold for $1,000 if I
ever want to sell it.


If you mean one of
http://www2.northerntool.com/engines/small-engine-accessories/item-160590.htm
http://www2.northerntool.com/engines/small-engine-accessories/item-160595.htm
looks like the price has gone up $10.

By mechanical linkage, you mean something like a hand controlled
throttle lever, or some kind of actuator where the tach controls
the throttle?

--
jiw


Solid rod. Either idle or pull it and set it in stop, and it's at 1450.
When you're done welding, or go back to idle, pull the rod out of the slot.
If you try to start it with the rod left in that position, it is difficult
to start. Like I said, works fine. I found out the operating RPM of the
engine, and bought a tach to set it to that rpm. Yes, the exciter circuit
board and everything working together would be nice, but I'd rather spend
$100 (maybe more, the Lincoln guy said if everything was smoked it would be
$300) for something else.

That IS the tach I got from NT. But once I had the rpm set, it was not
necessary, and it would have just sat out in the weather, so I pulled it off
after using it a short time. Four modes. ON, idle, run, and OFF.

Ran some 7018 the other day, and it sure looks purty. I'm going to do some
6011 stinger negative soon to weld some hangers to the thin metal in my
container. Will see just how low this machine will go.

Steve