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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
I've painted a lot of walls & ceilings with rollers (rental properties).
I just recently came up with a technique that makes it faster & easier. I use a dishpan to hold the paint, with a roller screen in it. The roller screen I mean is the one made for painting directly from a 5 gal bucket of paint. http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/PaintTray.jpg I also put the dishpan in a regular roller tray to tip it up & bring the paint to the front. The advantages: - it holds a lot of paint. As much as a gallon. So refilling time is cut down, if not out. - it's more secure. Paint's not as likely to slop over the edge - the screen works better than the solid surface of a tray. - it's a better angle than having the screen in a 5 gal bucket, when you're using an extension handle. I also just discovered lambs wool roller covers. They put a lot more paint on the wall, per dip. About twice as much as the synthetic covers that I had been using. They don't seem to hold more paint, rather release more. I.e., the synthetics seem to keep more paint in the cover. Lambs wool is lot a more expensive (about $8), but well worth it. Bob |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
On Sep 23, 9:34*pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
I've painted a lot of walls & ceilings with rollers (rental properties). * I just recently came up with a technique that makes it faster & easier. *I use a dishpan to hold the paint, with a roller screen in it. * The roller screen I mean is the one made for painting directly from a 5 gal bucket of paint. http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/PaintTray.jpg I also put the dishpan in a regular roller tray to tip it up & bring the paint to the front. The advantages: - it holds a lot of paint. *As much as a gallon. *So refilling time is cut down, if not out. - it's more secure. *Paint's not as likely to slop over the edge - the screen works better than the solid surface of a tray. - it's a better angle than having the screen in a 5 gal bucket, when you're using an extension handle. I also just discovered lambs wool roller covers. *They put a lot more paint on the wall, per dip. *About twice as much as the synthetic covers that I had been using. *They don't seem to hold more paint, rather release more. *I.e., the synthetics seem to keep more paint in the cover. *Lambs wool is lot a more expensive (about $8), but well worth it. |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 06:15:32 -0700, XR650L_Dave wrote:
On Sep 23, 9:34*pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote: I've painted a lot of walls & ceilings with rollers (rental properties). * I just recently came up with a technique that makes it faster & easier. *I use a dishpan to hold the paint, with a roller screen in it. * The roller screen I mean is the one made for painting directly from a 5 gal bucket of paint. http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/PaintTray.jpg I also put the dishpan in a regular roller tray to tip it up & bring the paint to the front. The advantages: - it holds a lot of paint. *As much as a gallon. *So refilling time is cut down, if not out. - it's more secure. *Paint's not as likely to slop over the edge - the screen works better than the solid surface of a tray. - it's a better angle than having the screen in a 5 gal bucket, when you're using an extension handle. I also just discovered lambs wool roller covers. *They put a lot more paint on the wall, per dip. *About twice as much as the synthetic covers that I had been using. *They don't seem to hold more paint, rather release more. *I.e., the synthetics seem to keep more paint in the cover. *Lambs wool is lot a more expensive (about $8), but well worth it. Cool idea. How is the lambs wool wrt releasing little clumps- more resistant? Is it any different from the synthetics when cleaning up? Thanks, Rich |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
Bob Engelhardt wrote:
I've painted a lot of walls & ceilings with rollers (rental properties). I just recently came up with a technique that makes it faster & easier. I use a dishpan to hold the paint, with a roller screen in it. The roller screen I mean is the one made for painting directly from a 5 gal bucket of paint. http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/PaintTray.jpg I also put the dishpan in a regular roller tray to tip it up & bring the paint to the front. The advantages: - it holds a lot of paint. As much as a gallon. So refilling time is cut down, if not out. - it's more secure. Paint's not as likely to slop over the edge - the screen works better than the solid surface of a tray. - it's a better angle than having the screen in a 5 gal bucket, when you're using an extension handle. I also just discovered lambs wool roller covers. They put a lot more paint on the wall, per dip. About twice as much as the synthetic covers that I had been using. They don't seem to hold more paint, rather release more. I.e., the synthetics seem to keep more paint in the cover. Lambs wool is lot a more expensive (about $8), but well worth it. Bob Airless sprayer! Spend a few hours taping everything you don't want to paint, and then Spray! I just HATE cleaning rollers. Stuart |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 10:50:36 -0700, the infamous Rich Grise
scrawled the following: On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 06:15:32 -0700, XR650L_Dave wrote: On Sep 23, 9:34*pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote: I've painted a lot of walls & ceilings with rollers (rental properties). * I just recently came up with a technique that makes it faster & easier. *I use a dishpan to hold the paint, with a roller screen in it. * The roller screen I mean is the one made for painting directly from a 5 gal bucket of paint. http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/PaintTray.jpg I also put the dishpan in a regular roller tray to tip it up & bring the paint to the front. The advantages: - it holds a lot of paint. *As much as a gallon. *So refilling time is cut down, if not out. - it's more secure. *Paint's not as likely to slop over the edge - the screen works better than the solid surface of a tray. - it's a better angle than having the screen in a 5 gal bucket, when you're using an extension handle. I also just discovered lambs wool roller covers. *They put a lot more paint on the wall, per dip. *About twice as much as the synthetic covers that I had been using. *They don't seem to hold more paint, rather release more. *I.e., the synthetics seem to keep more paint in the cover. *Lambs wool is lot a more expensive (about $8), but well worth it. Cool idea. How is the lambs wool wrt releasing little clumps- more resistant? Is it any different from the synthetics when cleaning up? Figure a longer cleanup time, since they're more expensive so you'll want to take better care of them. My secret weapon for paint speed is a paint stick. I LOVE these things! $20, and will pay for itself the first job. http://www.homeright.com/showcat.asp?cat=1 -- The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man. -- George Bernard Shaw |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 17:38:51 -0400, Stuart Wheaton
wrote: Bob Engelhardt wrote: I've painted a lot of walls & ceilings with rollers (rental properties). I just recently came up with a technique that makes it faster & easier. I use a dishpan to hold the paint, with a roller screen in it. The roller screen I mean is the one made for painting directly from a 5 gal bucket of paint. http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/PaintTray.jpg I also put the dishpan in a regular roller tray to tip it up & bring the paint to the front. The advantages: - it holds a lot of paint. As much as a gallon. So refilling time is cut down, if not out. - it's more secure. Paint's not as likely to slop over the edge - the screen works better than the solid surface of a tray. - it's a better angle than having the screen in a 5 gal bucket, when you're using an extension handle. I also just discovered lambs wool roller covers. They put a lot more paint on the wall, per dip. About twice as much as the synthetic covers that I had been using. They don't seem to hold more paint, rather release more. I.e., the synthetics seem to keep more paint in the cover. Lambs wool is lot a more expensive (about $8), but well worth it. Bob Airless sprayer! Spend a few hours taping everything you don't want to paint, and then Spray! I just HATE cleaning rollers. If it's for rental properties, you're wasting your time masking - the professionals just bring in an airless and a full 5-gallon pail of flat Off White and paint-bomb anything that doesn't move. They can do two or three units in a day. They usually mask the switch toggles, doors and the door jambs/trim... Usually. If they are in a rush, they'll just use a sheet of cardboard as a mask or frisket and bomb up to the straightedge, and who cares about the overspray. It's a rental. Says the electrician who has had to pry the receptacle and switch plates off the wall of a lot of apartments, with ten coats of paint gluing them to both the wall and the receptacle or switch itself. And I usually end up replacing both the receptacle and the plate because it looks REALLY stupid putting the old plate on a new outlet. Then again, the average r.c.m reader has a little higher regard for the job, so at least pop the plate off and wrap some Blue Masking Tape around the device. It looks SO Much better and only takes minutes. -- Bruce -- |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
XR650L_Dave wrote:
How is the lambs wool wrt releasing little clumps- more resistant? You mean clumps of the cover coming off? None at all. Bob |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
Rich Grise wrote:
Is it any different from the synthetics when cleaning up? Not significantly. Bob |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
Larry Jaques wrote:
Figure a longer cleanup time, since they're more expensive so you'll want to take better care of them. Especially at first. Then complacency will set in. My secret weapon for paint speed is a paint stick. I LOVE these things! $20, and will pay for itself the first job. http://www.homeright.com/showcat.asp?cat=1 I'm always leery of those kinds of things. They never seem to work as well as you expect. And have gotcha's, like having to buy their covers, 'cause they're perforated. And the manual has 14 steps to cleaning it. Bob |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
Stuart Wheaton wrote:
Airless sprayer! Spend a few hours taping everything you don't want to paint, and then Spray! No thanks. I can roll just about as fast as taping. And I like the texture that a roller leaves. I just HATE cleaning rollers. Ah, it's not so bad. The real trick is to use a detergent - I like TSP. Rinse to get the bulk out, then a little TSP in hot water to actually wash it. Rinse again, spin, & Bob's your uncle. Bob |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 08:54:24 -0400, the infamous Bob Engelhardt
scrawled the following: Larry Jaques wrote: Figure a longer cleanup time, since they're more expensive so you'll want to take better care of them. Especially at first. Then complacency will set in. It's then that you made the famous discovery: Instant Gratification Takes Too Long. My secret weapon for paint speed is a paint stick. I LOVE these things! $20, and will pay for itself the first job. http://www.homeright.com/showcat.asp?cat=1 I'm always leery of those kinds of things. They never seem to work as well as you expect. And have gotcha's, like having to buy their covers, 'cause they're perforated. And the manual has 14 steps to cleaning it. The paint sticks take a little longer to clean due to the extra parts, and you lose an extra ounce or two of paint, but they speed up the painting so much that it's cheaper to the client to buy a paint stick and let you throw it away after the job, or let them clean it. Covers are $6 instead of $2, but I've successfully reused them for a year, a whole interior's worth. shrug Tips: Keep the little rubber valve clean. Denatured or rubbing alcohol cleans it nicely. That's the only drawback I've had with these things over the past 7 years. -- The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man. -- George Bernard Shaw |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 08:59:51 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote: Stuart Wheaton wrote: Airless sprayer! Spend a few hours taping everything you don't want to paint, and then Spray! No thanks. I can roll just about as fast as taping. And I like the texture that a roller leaves. I just HATE cleaning rollers. Ah, it's not so bad. The real trick is to use a detergent - I like TSP. Rinse to get the bulk out, then a little TSP in hot water to actually wash it. Rinse again, spin, & Bob's your uncle. Bob Have you looked at/tried the Wagner Power Rollers? I've heard that they work well, but have no experience with them myself. "Complete kit for trim, corners and large projects. Feeds directly from paint can. Ergonomic, soft grip, quick-disconnect handle. Reversing feature and quick clean connection for fast clean-up. Comes with 20 ft. hose for 40 ft. work area. -120V electric power for optimum performance -Variable speed - paint up to 53 square feet per minute -Reverse feature and quick clean connection for fast clean-up -Complete kit includes trim pad, corner pad, 18" extension, -3/8" nap roller cover, 3/4" nap roller cover -MFG Brand Name : Wagner -MFG Model # : 0514009 -MFG Part # : 0514009" Home Depot has them, along with many other places: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053 -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
Leon Fisk wrote:
Have you looked at/tried the Wagner Power Rollers? I've heard that they work well, but have no experience with them myself. .... Funny you should mention them. When I knew that I had a whole apt to do, I thought about the Wagner & went online to find out about them. There was near unanimous opinion that they stunk. I forget the particulars. It was during that search that I also got sheep's wool cover recommendations. Bob |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 15:06:49 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote: Leon Fisk wrote: Have you looked at/tried the Wagner Power Rollers? I've heard that they work well, but have no experience with them myself. ... Funny you should mention them. When I knew that I had a whole apt to do, I thought about the Wagner & went online to find out about them. There was near unanimous opinion that they stunk. I forget the particulars. It was during that search that I also got sheep's wool cover recommendations. Bob This is from Amazon, most of the reviews were okay. Biggest bitch is clean-up, which sucks with any kind of painting that I have done/tried (rattle-can is the simplest G). http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Product...owViewpoints=1 But I don't think that model is available anymore. The current model (990) has a much poorer review: http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-514001-...DateDescending It sounds like the newer version has some plastic parts that break pretty easy. Who woulda-thunk that ;-) -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 17:38:51 -0400, Stuart Wheaton wrote: Bob Engelhardt wrote: I've painted a lot of walls & ceilings with rollers (rental properties). I just recently came up with a technique that makes it faster & easier. I use a dishpan to hold the paint, with a roller screen in it. The roller screen I mean is the one made for painting directly from a 5 gal bucket of paint. http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/PaintTray.jpg I also put the dishpan in a regular roller tray to tip it up & bring the paint to the front. The advantages: - it holds a lot of paint. As much as a gallon. So refilling time is cut down, if not out. - it's more secure. Paint's not as likely to slop over the edge - the screen works better than the solid surface of a tray. - it's a better angle than having the screen in a 5 gal bucket, when you're using an extension handle. I also just discovered lambs wool roller covers. They put a lot more paint on the wall, per dip. About twice as much as the synthetic covers that I had been using. They don't seem to hold more paint, rather release more. I.e., the synthetics seem to keep more paint in the cover. Lambs wool is lot a more expensive (about $8), but well worth it. Bob Airless sprayer! Spend a few hours taping everything you don't want to paint, and then Spray! I just HATE cleaning rollers. If it's for rental properties, you're wasting your time masking - the professionals just bring in an airless and a full 5-gallon pail of flat Off White and paint-bomb anything that doesn't move. They can do two or three units in a day. I'm a small landlord, I do my own and I don't need or want to do more than a few units a year! And I care too much to "Bomb" anything. The only time I ever said "Damn the overspray" was when I was painting before the replacement windows came in. They usually mask the switch toggles, doors and the door jambs/trim... Usually. If they are in a rush, they'll just use a sheet of cardboard as a mask or frisket and bomb up to the straightedge, and who cares about the overspray. It's a rental. I always pull the plates, and since most of these units are in their first turnover in my ownership, I often replace all the devices as I run the ground wires and do other upgrades needed. I like a bone wall with pure white plates and devices, sets things off and looks clean and professional. I usually label and pull all the doors, then I can tape and paper the jambs really easily, tape and paper the windows and other fixtures, and start spraying. I let the wall tops spray slightly over onto the ceiling and I can do a 2 BR apt in about an hour of painting, I rinse out the sprayer, and leave it soaking overnight... The next day I tape a line of 1' wide masking paper around the tops of the walls, cover the ceiling fixtures, put the ceiling paint bucket in the sprayer, and the same 2BR apt takes about 45 minutes to finish. Clean the machine, and I can start pulling paper and tape that afternoon. I do roll & brush kitchens and baths because masking them is usually more trouble than they are worth, though sometimes ceilings are sprayed, but since they get gloss paint they would need a separate spray step. I'm using a Graco pump that came well recommended by a cousin who used to run a airless and compressor sales and service business. Stuart |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 14:28:20 -0400, the infamous Leon Fisk
scrawled the following: On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 08:59:51 -0400, Bob Engelhardt wrote: Stuart Wheaton wrote: Airless sprayer! Spend a few hours taping everything you don't want to paint, and then Spray! No thanks. I can roll just about as fast as taping. And I like the texture that a roller leaves. I just HATE cleaning rollers. Ah, it's not so bad. The real trick is to use a detergent - I like TSP. Rinse to get the bulk out, then a little TSP in hot water to actually wash it. Rinse again, spin, & Bob's your uncle. Bob Have you looked at/tried the Wagner Power Rollers? I've heard that they work well, but have no experience with them myself. I've heard nothing but rantss against them. They're evidently the "Thompson's WaterSeal" of paint machines. -- The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man. -- George Bernard Shaw |
#17
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT - painting tip. Roller painting, that is.
I tried one several years ago and really liked it. Worked just as
advertised. A little more clean up, but well worth it with water soluble paints. "Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 08:54:24 -0400, the infamous Bob Engelhardt scrawled the following: Larry Jaques wrote: Figure a longer cleanup time, since they're more expensive so you'll want to take better care of them. Especially at first. Then complacency will set in. It's then that you made the famous discovery: Instant Gratification Takes Too Long. My secret weapon for paint speed is a paint stick. I LOVE these things! $20, and will pay for itself the first job. http://www.homeright.com/showcat.asp?cat=1 I'm always leery of those kinds of things. They never seem to work as well as you expect. And have gotcha's, like having to buy their covers, 'cause they're perforated. And the manual has 14 steps to cleaning it. The paint sticks take a little longer to clean due to the extra parts, and you lose an extra ounce or two of paint, but they speed up the painting so much that it's cheaper to the client to buy a paint stick and let you throw it away after the job, or let them clean it. Covers are $6 instead of $2, but I've successfully reused them for a year, a whole interior's worth. shrug Tips: Keep the little rubber valve clean. Denatured or rubbing alcohol cleans it nicely. That's the only drawback I've had with these things over the past 7 years. -- The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man. -- George Bernard Shaw |
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