Okay, I finally took the electric motor (3/4 hp, capacitor start) off the
cement mixer. This is the motor that got flooded under water for about a
day or two (about 4 months ago).

Shaft will not turn. What's my next step? Tap on it with a soft mallet?
Try to take the end caps off? Move the shaft axially?

If you've done this, please advise. If you think it's a lost cause, tell
me.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

On 2009-08-06, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Okay, I finally took the electric motor (3/4 hp, capacitor start) off the
cement mixer. This is the motor that got flooded under water for about a
day or two (about 4 months ago).

Shaft will not turn. What's my next step? Tap on it with a soft mallet?
Try to take the end caps off? Move the shaft axially?

If you've done this, please advise. If you think it's a lost cause, tell
me.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary


I would disassemble and then see. Maybe silt solidified inside or
something like that, or just fluffy rust.

For $100 I can sell you a 1 HP cap start motor, 3450 rpm.

i

Pull the end caps. If it is ball bearing, the bearings will need to be
replaced. If sleeve bearings, a bit of cleaning and oil should get
things spinning. Clean out any residual dried out muck, check to see
that the centrifugal switch is working freely and the contacts are clean.

Worth fixing? If it just got wet it's worth a try. If the inside is
caked with mud from a standard muddy river, it's still worth a try but
odds are not with you.

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Okay, I finally took the electric motor (3/4 hp, capacitor start) off
the cement mixer. This is the motor that got flooded under water for
about a day or two (about 4 months ago).

Shaft will not turn. What's my next step? Tap on it with a soft
mallet? Try to take the end caps off? Move the shaft axially?

If you've done this, please advise. If you think it's a lost cause,
tell me.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

On Aug 6, 5:05*am, "Ivan Vegvary" wrote:
Okay, I finally took the electric motor (3/4 hp, capacitor start) off the
cement mixer. *This is the motor that got flooded under water for about a
day or two (about 4 months ago).

Shaft will not turn. *What's my next step? *Tap on it with a soft mallet?
Try to take the end caps off? *Move the shaft axially?

If you've done this, please advise. *If you think it's a lost cause, tell
me.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

My guess is that there is rust/ mud between the rotor and stator. So
take the end bells off and see if the rotor can be pulled out of the
stator. If it is rust as I suspect clean if off and put something on
to prevent rusting. I use something like ATF with some wax dissolved
in it. The bearing may be alright. You can figure that out after you
get it cleaned up.

Definitely worth taking apart and looking.

Dan

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Okay, I finally took the electric motor (3/4 hp, capacitor start) off the
cement mixer. This is the motor that got flooded under water for about a
day or two (about 4 months ago).

Shaft will not turn. What's my next step? Tap on it with a soft mallet?
Try to take the end caps off? Move the shaft axially?

If you've done this, please advise. If you think it's a lost cause, tell
me.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

Product called PB Blaster. Aerosol in a can. Watch what you put it on,
like plastics and rubber. For frozen metal, it's great. Kroil (sp?) is
good, too.

Steve

On Thu, 06 Aug 2009 04:05:08 +0000, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

Okay, I finally took the electric motor (3/4 hp, capacitor start) off
the cement mixer. This is the motor that got flooded under water for
about a day or two (about 4 months ago).

Shaft will not turn. What's my next step? Tap on it with a soft
mallet? Try to take the end caps off? Move the shaft axially?

If you've done this, please advise. If you think it's a lost cause,
tell me.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

From the comments so far, I'd be tempted to disassemble the thing
completely* for a thorough cleaning, then reassemble with all due
attention paid to rusted-out parts and proper lubrication -- but then, I
like taking things apart.

Whatever else you do, when you're in there you should probably replace
the switch or the contacts, as appropriate.

* Well, without unwinding the stator windings...

--
www.wescottdesign.com

On Thu, 06 Aug 2009 04:05:08 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"
wrote:

Okay, I finally took the electric motor (3/4 hp, capacitor start) off the
cement mixer. This is the motor that got flooded under water for about a
day or two (about 4 months ago).

Shaft will not turn. What's my next step? Tap on it with a soft mallet?
Try to take the end caps off? Move the shaft axially?

If you've done this, please advise. If you think it's a lost cause, tell
me.

I'd say Tentative Lost Cause - because replacement motors are FAR
cheaper than the time and effort it would take to save that one. Just
getting two new bearings and a "Dip and Bake" done on the windings
will push the price past a new motor.

(If that was a 10-HP plus, or a specialty motor that the machine was
constructed around that isn't available at commodity prices like some
Bridgeports, then it starts getting cheaper to fix the old one than
buy a replacement.)

Open it up, clean it out. Check and/or clean and lube the bearings.

Ohm out and visually inspect the windings, a Megger insulation test
if you have the tool. No sense doing any work if it's just going to
let out the Magic Smoke in thirty seconds.

And if it won't go, it's out - call around for a replacement. You
need to write everything down from the label or just take the dead
motor in with you. Frame size, HPO, RPM, Rotation (some are
reversible easily, some are not...) Servicer Factor...

Oh - Don't forget to clean out the bearings and gearbox on the cement
mixer, and lube everything - if the motor got wet, they did too.

-- Bruce --

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Okay, I finally took the electric motor (3/4 hp, capacitor start) off the
cement mixer. This is the motor that got flooded under water for about a
day or two (about 4 months ago).

Shaft will not turn. What's my next step? Tap on it with a soft mallet?
Try to take the end caps off? Move the shaft axially?

If you've done this, please advise. If you think it's a lost cause, tell
me.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary


There is nothing to fear. Take it apart. You can't make it any worse.
A quality, name brand motor should be worth saving, and will be designed for
easy repair.
Junk, 3rd world motors are just scrap.

Removed motor from cement mixer. Chiseled off chunks of splattered concrete
from motor. Used a bearing puller to remove crusted on small pulley from
motor shaft. While tapping on the end of the puller the motor shaft
suddenly freed up and was able to turn.
Plugged it in and it runs fine. Fairly quiet!

Question: Tear it down further to look at bearings .. or .. use as is.

BTW motor is: Dayton, 1HP, Cap. Start, Therm. Protected model 6K562F. Took
a lot of scrubbing to get that information. Bearings = Ball Note on
nameplate says that they are permanently lubricated and require no further
lubrication. Does this mean they are sealed and water cannot get in?

What would you guys do? Use it as is (while cautiously waiting for bearing
noise to develop) or, make it a new project.

Thanks for all the previous advice.

Ivan Vegvary
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Okay, I finally took the electric motor (3/4 hp, capacitor start) off the
cement mixer. This is the motor that got flooded under water for about a
day or two (about 4 months ago).

Shaft will not turn. What's my next step? Tap on it with a soft mallet?
Try to take the end caps off? Move the shaft axially?

If you've done this, please advise. If you think it's a lost cause, tell
me.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

bearings fot this size motor should be dirt cheap, and ez o change

i
r
On 2009-08-06, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Removed motor from cement mixer. Chiseled off chunks of splattered concrete
from motor. Used a bearing puller to remove crusted on small pulley from
motor shaft. While tapping on the end of the puller the motor shaft
suddenly freed up and was able to turn.
Plugged it in and it runs fine. Fairly quiet!

Question: Tear it down further to look at bearings .. or .. use as is.

BTW motor is: Dayton, 1HP, Cap. Start, Therm. Protected model 6K562F. Took
a lot of scrubbing to get that information. Bearings = Ball Note on
nameplate says that they are permanently lubricated and require no further
lubrication. Does this mean they are sealed and water cannot get in?

What would you guys do? Use it as is (while cautiously waiting for bearing
noise to develop) or, make it a new project.

Thanks for all the previous advice.

Ivan Vegvary
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Okay, I finally took the electric motor (3/4 hp, capacitor start) off the
cement mixer. This is the motor that got flooded under water for about a
day or two (about 4 months ago).

Shaft will not turn. What's my next step? Tap on it with a soft mallet?
Try to take the end caps off? Move the shaft axially?

If you've done this, please advise. If you think it's a lost cause, tell
me.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

On Aug 6, 10:59*pm, "Ivan Vegvary" wrote:
Removed motor from cement mixer. *Chiseled off chunks of splattered concrete
from motor. *Used a bearing puller to remove crusted on small pulley from
motor shaft. *While tapping on the end of the puller the motor shaft
suddenly freed up and was able to turn.
Plugged it in and it runs fine. *Fairly quiet!

Question: *Tear it down further to look at bearings .. or .. use as is.


Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

My guess is still dirt or rust between the rotor and stator was the
cause. I would still take the end bells off , pull the rotor out,
clean the rotor and stator and put something on to inhibit rust.
Maybe wash off the windings with some water and a little detergent
before putting on something to inhibit rust. I would not worry about
the bearings. You can always replace them later. Maybe write the
bearing sizes somewhere if they are not easily read on the nameplate.
So if it starts to get noisy, you can get some new bearings so you
have them when it gets too bad.

Should take less than an hour to do the above. Of course if you need
to use the motor right now, you can always do what I suggest later.

Dan

On Thu, 06 Aug 2009 21:59:54 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"
wrote:

Removed motor from cement mixer. Chiseled off chunks of splattered concrete
from motor. Used a bearing puller to remove crusted on small pulley from
motor shaft. While tapping on the end of the puller the motor shaft
suddenly freed up and was able to turn.
Plugged it in and it runs fine. Fairly quiet!

Question: Tear it down further to look at bearings .. or .. use as is.

BTW motor is: Dayton, 1HP, Cap. Start, Therm. Protected model 6K562F. Took
a lot of scrubbing to get that information. Bearings = Ball Note on
nameplate says that they are permanently lubricated and require no further
lubrication. Does this mean they are sealed and water cannot get in?

What would you guys do? Use it as is (while cautiously waiting for bearing
noise to develop) or, make it a new project.

Thanks for all the previous advice.


If the motor has been under water it seems logical to replace the
bearings and to wash, bake, and re varnish the windings.

Washing can be done with soap and water, simple Green, or other
solvents (that do not dissolve any existing varnish), baking can be
done by the use of high wattage "spot lights" or even in the kitchen
oven and insulating varnish is available in spray cans.

Cheers,

John B.
(johnbslocombatgmaildotcom)

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Removed motor from cement mixer. Chiseled off chunks of splattered
concrete from motor. Used a bearing puller to remove crusted on small
pulley from motor shaft. While tapping on the end of the puller the motor
shaft suddenly freed up and was able to turn.
Plugged it in and it runs fine. Fairly quiet!

Question: Tear it down further to look at bearings .. or .. use as is.

BTW motor is: Dayton, 1HP, Cap. Start, Therm. Protected model 6K562F.
Took a lot of scrubbing to get that information. Bearings = Ball Note on
nameplate says that they are permanently lubricated and require no further
lubrication. Does this mean they are sealed and water cannot get in?

What would you guys do? Use it as is (while cautiously waiting for
bearing noise to develop) or, make it a new project.


Good motor with "sealed" bearings.
Mark both end shells against the body shell so that you can re-assemble the
same way, but each end likely has small alignment pins. Clean the shaft and
unscrew the end bolts and tap off one end. Look inside before pulling
completely to see if there is anything caught or rubbing. It's easy from
there.

Typical prices for import bearings that fit these motors =$6 each.
Change 'em!

Other than that, just run it!

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Removed motor from cement mixer. Chiseled off chunks of splattered
concrete from motor. Used a bearing puller to remove crusted on small
pulley from motor shaft. While tapping on the end of the puller the
motor shaft suddenly freed up and was able to turn.
Plugged it in and it runs fine. Fairly quiet!

Question: Tear it down further to look at bearings .. or .. use as is.

BTW motor is: Dayton, 1HP, Cap. Start, Therm. Protected model 6K562F.
Took a lot of scrubbing to get that information. Bearings = Ball Note
on nameplate says that they are permanently lubricated and require no
further lubrication. Does this mean they are sealed and water cannot
get in?

What would you guys do? Use it as is (while cautiously waiting for
bearing noise to develop) or, make it a new project.

Thanks for all the previous advice.

Ivan Vegvary
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Okay, I finally took the electric motor (3/4 hp, capacitor start) off
the cement mixer. This is the motor that got flooded under water for
about a day or two (about 4 months ago).

Shaft will not turn. What's my next step? Tap on it with a soft
mallet? Try to take the end caps off? Move the shaft axially?

If you've done this, please advise. If you think it's a lost cause,
tell me.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

wrote in message
...
On Aug 6, 10:59 pm, "Ivan Vegvary" wrote:
Removed motor from cement mixer. Chiseled off chunks of splattered
concrete
from motor. Used a bearing puller to remove crusted on small pulley from
motor shaft. While tapping on the end of the puller the motor shaft
suddenly freed up and was able to turn.
Plugged it in and it runs fine. Fairly quiet!

Question: Tear it down further to look at bearings .. or .. use as is.


Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

My guess is still dirt or rust between the rotor and stator was the
cause. I would still take the end bells off , pull the rotor out,
clean the rotor and stator and put something on to inhibit rust.
Maybe wash off the windings with some water and a little detergent
before putting on something to inhibit rust. I would not worry about
the bearings. You can always replace them later. Maybe write the
bearing sizes somewhere if they are not easily read on the nameplate.
So if it starts to get noisy, you can get some new bearings so you
have them when it gets too bad.

Should take less than an hour to do the above. Of course if you need
to use the motor right now, you can always do what I suggest later.

Dan



my thought was it would suck if it mysteriously seized up again during a
concrete pour.

b.w.

On Thu, 06 Aug 2009 21:59:54 +0000, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

Removed motor from cement mixer. Chiseled off chunks of splattered concrete
from motor. Used a bearing puller to remove crusted on small pulley from
motor shaft. While tapping on the end of the puller the motor shaft
suddenly freed up and was able to turn.
Plugged it in and it runs fine. Fairly quiet!

Question: Tear it down further to look at bearings .. or .. use as is.

I vote, if it works, don't fix it. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

I'd oil the bearings if nothing else. Oil might have floated away.
Martin

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Removed motor from cement mixer. Chiseled off chunks of splattered
concrete from motor. Used a bearing puller to remove crusted on small
pulley from motor shaft. While tapping on the end of the puller the
motor shaft suddenly freed up and was able to turn.
Plugged it in and it runs fine. Fairly quiet!

Question: Tear it down further to look at bearings .. or .. use as is.

BTW motor is: Dayton, 1HP, Cap. Start, Therm. Protected model 6K562F.
Took a lot of scrubbing to get that information. Bearings = Ball Note
on nameplate says that they are permanently lubricated and require no
further lubrication. Does this mean they are sealed and water cannot
get in?

What would you guys do? Use it as is (while cautiously waiting for
bearing noise to develop) or, make it a new project.

Thanks for all the previous advice.

Ivan Vegvary
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Okay, I finally took the electric motor (3/4 hp, capacitor start) off
the cement mixer. This is the motor that got flooded under water for
about a day or two (about 4 months ago).

Shaft will not turn. What's my next step? Tap on it with a soft
mallet? Try to take the end caps off? Move the shaft axially?

If you've done this, please advise. If you think it's a lost cause,
tell me.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

Right.
If you replace the $7 bearings with the cheap import ones - then what -
do it every year ?

Martin


Rich Grise wrote:
On Thu, 06 Aug 2009 21:59:54 +0000, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

Removed motor from cement mixer. Chiseled off chunks of splattered concrete
from motor. Used a bearing puller to remove crusted on small pulley from
motor shaft. While tapping on the end of the puller the motor shaft
suddenly freed up and was able to turn.
Plugged it in and it runs fine. Fairly quiet!

Question: Tear it down further to look at bearings .. or .. use as is.

I vote, if it works, don't fix it. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 20:41:55 -0500, the infamous "Martin H. Eastburn"
scrawled the following:

Right.
If you replace the $7 bearings with the cheap import ones - then what -
do it every year ?

Have you had trouble with premature failure of import bearings,
Martin?

I wouldn't use one on my spaceship's gyro, but wouldn't hesitate to
use them elsewhere.

--
Content thyself to be obscurely good. When vice prevails, and
impious men bear sway, the post of honor is a private station.
-- Joseph Addison, 'Cato'

On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 20:41:55 -0500, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote:

Right.
If you replace the $7 bearings with the cheap import ones - then what -
do it every year ?

Martin


Rich Grise wrote:
On Thu, 06 Aug 2009 21:59:54 +0000, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

Removed motor from cement mixer. Chiseled off chunks of splattered concrete
from motor. Used a bearing puller to remove crusted on small pulley from
motor shaft. While tapping on the end of the puller the motor shaft
suddenly freed up and was able to turn.
Plugged it in and it runs fine. Fairly quiet!

Question: Tear it down further to look at bearings .. or .. use as is.

I vote, if it works, don't fix it. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

Difference in price from cheap crap import to decent quality bearing
is likely less than 20%. Going for the ultimate, a factor of 5 or
more. If you go to the work of changing them, use good enough parts
that you only need to do it once.

On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 19:33:28 GMT, Rich Grise
wrote:

On Thu, 06 Aug 2009 21:59:54 +0000, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

Removed motor from cement mixer. Chiseled off chunks of splattered concrete
from motor. Used a bearing puller to remove crusted on small pulley from
motor shaft. While tapping on the end of the puller the motor shaft
suddenly freed up and was able to turn.
Plugged it in and it runs fine. Fairly quiet!

Question: Tear it down further to look at bearings .. or .. use as is.

I vote, if it works, don't fix it. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich
If it's worth doing it's worth doing right.

On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 19:36:38 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 20:41:55 -0500, the infamous "Martin H. Eastburn"
scrawled the following:

Right.
If you replace the $7 bearings with the cheap import ones - then what -
do it every year ?

Have you had trouble with premature failure of import bearings,
Martin?

I wouldn't use one on my spaceship's gyro, but wouldn't hesitate to
use them elsewhere.

Depends on the "import". I've had some that out of the box were worse
than what I was replacing.
Won't even think about russian. Polish are not too bad. Taiwanese are
often pretty decent - japanese can be excellent. Howe about British,
German, or Australian? They are imports too. For me, Made in USA is an
import.

On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 23:33:23 -0400, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 20:41:55 -0500, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote:

Right.
If you replace the $7 bearings with the cheap import ones - then what -
do it every year ?

Martin


Rich Grise wrote:
On Thu, 06 Aug 2009 21:59:54 +0000, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

Removed motor from cement mixer. Chiseled off chunks of splattered concrete
from motor. Used a bearing puller to remove crusted on small pulley from
motor shaft. While tapping on the end of the puller the motor shaft
suddenly freed up and was able to turn.
Plugged it in and it runs fine. Fairly quiet!

Question: Tear it down further to look at bearings .. or .. use as is.

I vote, if it works, don't fix it. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

Difference in price from cheap crap import to decent quality bearing
is likely less than 20%. Going for the ultimate, a factor of 5 or
more. If you go to the work of changing them, use good enough parts
that you only need to do it once.

When I wanted an idler bearing for a drill press pulley, the guys in
Medford wanted $20 and change for an SKF bearing and retainer
snapring. Nealy Bearing here in GP sold an import and retainer to me
for $7 and change. That's a wee bit more than a 20% difference.

Some day, if I can get enough crap moved out of the shop to get out
there and work in it again, I'll install it. sigh

--
Content thyself to be obscurely good. When vice prevails, and
impious men bear sway, the post of honor is a private station.
-- Joseph Addison, 'Cato'

On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 23:36:57 -0400, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 19:36:38 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 20:41:55 -0500, the infamous "Martin H. Eastburn"
scrawled the following:

Right.
If you replace the $7 bearings with the cheap import ones - then what -
do it every year ?

Have you had trouble with premature failure of import bearings,
Martin?

I wouldn't use one on my spaceship's gyro, but wouldn't hesitate to
use them elsewhere.

Depends on the "import". I've had some that out of the box were worse
than what I was replacing.

OMG! What brand?


Won't even think about russian.

I think the only good things coming out of Russia are its lovely women
(vavavoom!) and its good vacuum tubes.


Polish are not too bad. Taiwanese are
often pretty decent - japanese can be excellent.

I've only seen and used Chinese and Japanese, all without any
failures. But I don't replace bearings as often as I used to when I
was wrenching.


Howe about British,
German, or Australian? They are imports too.

Haven't seen/used any.


For me, Made in USA is an import.

Hah! You give us new perspective, Clare.

--
Content thyself to be obscurely good. When vice prevails, and
impious men bear sway, the post of honor is a private station.
-- Joseph Addison, 'Cato'

On Aug 8, 4:33*am, wrote:

If it's worth doing it's worth doing right.

I subscribe to the saying in " The Soul of a New Machine ".

"Everything worth doing is not worth doing well"

Dan.

If you consider what a bad bearing could do - freeze a shaft and blow up
the motor physically. Flywheel jerking around as a bearing grips and lets
go... Flywheel explodes.

Martin

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 23:36:57 -0400, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 19:36:38 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 20:41:55 -0500, the infamous "Martin H. Eastburn"
scrawled the following:

Right.
If you replace the $7 bearings with the cheap import ones - then what -
do it every year ?
Have you had trouble with premature failure of import bearings,
Martin?

I wouldn't use one on my spaceship's gyro, but wouldn't hesitate to
use them elsewhere.
Depends on the "import". I've had some that out of the box were worse
than what I was replacing.

OMG! What brand?


Won't even think about russian.

I think the only good things coming out of Russia are its lovely women
(vavavoom!) and its good vacuum tubes.


Polish are not too bad. Taiwanese are
often pretty decent - japanese can be excellent.

I've only seen and used Chinese and Japanese, all without any
failures. But I don't replace bearings as often as I used to when I
was wrenching.


Howe about British,
German, or Australian? They are imports too.

Haven't seen/used any.


For me, Made in USA is an import.

Hah! You give us new perspective, Clare.

--
Content thyself to be obscurely good. When vice prevails, and
impious men bear sway, the post of honor is a private station.
-- Joseph Addison, 'Cato'

On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 23:36:57 -0400, clare wrote:
....
German, or Australian? They are imports too. For me, Made in USA is an
import.

"In Paris, Ballantine's is imported beer!"
--- Frazier Crane

Cheers!
Rich

On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 23:33:23 -0400, clare wrote:

Difference in price from cheap crap import to decent quality bearing
is likely less than 20%. Going for the ultimate, a factor of 5 or
more. If you go to the work of changing them, use good enough parts
that you only need to do it once.

Apropos not much of anything, I was once working on a new design,
and needed to spec a bearing. I was using AutoCad, and SKF had
downloadable autocad drawings on their website. I found one that
would work, and imported it into my autocad drawing.

My drawing was in inches, the SKF drawing was in millimeters. When
I imported it, the bearing was bigger than the whole assembly!

(I just scaled it by .03937, and everything came out OK.)

Cheers!
Rich

On Sat, 08 Aug 2009 22:07:28 -0500, the infamous "Martin H. Eastburn"
scrawled the following:

If you consider what a bad bearing could do - freeze a shaft and blow up
the motor physically. Flywheel jerking around as a bearing grips and lets
go... Flywheel explodes.

I used to work for Palomar Technology in Carlsbad, CA back when they
were being purchased by SKF. We built vibration monitoring and
inspecting equipment to detect bearing failure prior to it happening.
Another good flak-causing explosion would be a 30' turbine blade at
the local electric generation plant. We wondered if pieces would hit
in Vista if it blew at the SDG&E's Encina Power Plant in Carlsbad.
But PT Vibralogs were showing the bearings to be sound, so we slept at
night. g

Once SKF took over, the corporate feel crept in, Dilbert reared his
ugly head, and they moved the shop to Sandy Eggo (well, Clairmont
Mesa/Little Vietnam.) I bailed with an early retirement package and
started DIVERSIFY! rather than start commuting 3 hours a day for a
$10/hr job. Feh!

--
Content thyself to be obscurely good. When vice prevails, and
impious men bear sway, the post of honor is a private station.
-- Joseph Addison, 'Cato'

Many years ago I serviced by hardware backup to tech support and
software and applications to a large computer company 'up north'.

They had a bedroom sized stone flywheel that continuously runs under
power and it in turn drives a alternator for the equipment floor.

The power company could switch taps and such - this would cause havoc
in the labs - until the flywheel was installed.

The engineering teams were positioned on a diagonal from the axis -
just in case it went rolling through the wall or flying end over end.

That was one impressive stone!
It was the best power in the state. Never missed a half cycle or
brownout. The flywheel kept on trucking.

Martin

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 08 Aug 2009 22:07:28 -0500, the infamous "Martin H. Eastburn"
scrawled the following:

If you consider what a bad bearing could do - freeze a shaft and blow up
the motor physically. Flywheel jerking around as a bearing grips and lets
go... Flywheel explodes.

I used to work for Palomar Technology in Carlsbad, CA back when they
were being purchased by SKF. We built vibration monitoring and
inspecting equipment to detect bearing failure prior to it happening.
Another good flak-causing explosion would be a 30' turbine blade at
the local electric generation plant. We wondered if pieces would hit
in Vista if it blew at the SDG&E's Encina Power Plant in Carlsbad.
But PT Vibralogs were showing the bearings to be sound, so we slept at
night. g

Once SKF took over, the corporate feel crept in, Dilbert reared his
ugly head, and they moved the shop to Sandy Eggo (well, Clairmont
Mesa/Little Vietnam.) I bailed with an early retirement package and
started DIVERSIFY! rather than start commuting 3 hours a day for a
$10/hr job. Feh!

--
Content thyself to be obscurely good. When vice prevails, and
impious men bear sway, the post of honor is a private station.
-- Joseph Addison, 'Cato'