hi, sorry to keep asking for help.
have a floor standing electric fan, found it, freebie on the street, didn't
work (nice fan, practically brand new) took it apart (years ago), found what
i thought was the problem (a small glass electronic thingy (diode or
resistor or some sort) that looked to be "burned out" (at the time i thought
it was a fuse red face) de-soldered it, removed it and re-soldered the
wire back where the diode was. when i turned on the fan it ran backwards, i
figured "someday" i'd open it back up again and give it another try (thought
i must've transposed two wires) today i was like "ok, gonna throw it out"
but thought first i'd give it ONE more try. now it's been so long i can't
remember which wire i de-soldered. i THINK it was the wire with the white
fabric covered insulation (in the photo) but can't remember. i don't think
i transposed any of the wires when i de-re-soldered them. wondering if it's
possible for someone to diagnose the problem by only just looking at a
picture.

http://www.frontiernet.net/~wwixon/fanmotor.jpg

oh, and one more thing. this fan has three speeds, when i run it on the
highest speed it STILL seems slow to me, seems as if it is running HALF of
what "3" should be.

(so, it runs backwards and i think at half speed) :-(

cold outside now but i'm sure this coming summer i'm going to be KICKING
myself in the ass for throwing this fan away.

b.w.

I think Your jumper should be from black to gray from the looks of it. The
device that failed was prob. a thermal fuse.
Jim

"William Wixon" wrote in message
...
hi, sorry to keep asking for help.
have a floor standing electric fan, found it, freebie on the street,
didn't work (nice fan, practically brand new) took it apart (years ago),
found what i thought was the problem (a small glass electronic thingy
(diode or resistor or some sort) that looked to be "burned out" (at the
time i thought it was a fuse red face) de-soldered it, removed it and
re-soldered the wire back where the diode was. when i turned on the fan
it ran backwards, i figured "someday" i'd open it back up again and give
it another try (thought i must've transposed two wires) today i was like
"ok, gonna throw it out" but thought first i'd give it ONE more try. now
it's been so long i can't remember which wire i de-soldered. i THINK it
was the wire with the white fabric covered insulation (in the photo) but
can't remember. i don't think i transposed any of the wires when i
de-re-soldered them. wondering if it's possible for someone to diagnose
the problem by only just looking at a picture.

http://www.frontiernet.net/~wwixon/fanmotor.jpg

oh, and one more thing. this fan has three speeds, when i run it on the
highest speed it STILL seems slow to me, seems as if it is running HALF of
what "3" should be.

(so, it runs backwards and i think at half speed) :-(

cold outside now but i'm sure this coming summer i'm going to be KICKING
myself in the ass for throwing this fan away.

b.w.

"James R. Freeman" wrote in message
...
I think Your jumper should be from black to gray from the looks of it. The
device that failed was prob. a thermal fuse.
Jim


Hey Jim, Thanks! :-)
i was so anxious to get this thing FINALLY fixed i absentmindedly
desoldered the jumper from the white and put it to grey and when i put it
back together i got NOTHING. i was like "DANG!" but opened it back up and
realized what i'd done, changed it black to grey, put it back together and
it seems to be running fine now. weee!!! i'm sure i'll be thanking you big
time this coming summer. thing is, now "1" is the fastest speed (thought
"3" was supposed to be fastest). it's running the right direction and it
seems it's also running at full speed. i took a picture (with streamer on
fan) to show you(ze). i was afraid someone was going to say "you just took
a picture when it was windy" so i stuck a pitchfork in the frozen ground
behind it w/ a streamer to show it wasn't windy. :-)
you said the device i removed was probably a thremal fuse, so, i'm assuming
it would be best to not run it unattended now (which i don't do anyhow).

thanks again Jim, you really made my day. practically-brand-new fan rescued
from untimely demise.

http://www.frontiernet.net/~wwixon/fanmotor1.jpg

b.w.



"William Wixon" wrote in message
...
hi, sorry to keep asking for help.
have a floor standing electric fan, found it, freebie on the street,

-snip-

On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 20:47:26 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote:

"James R. Freeman" wrote in message
...
I think Your jumper should be from black to gray from the looks of it. The
device that failed was prob. a thermal fuse.
Jim


Hey Jim, Thanks! :-)
i was so anxious to get this thing FINALLY fixed i absentmindedly
desoldered the jumper from the white and put it to grey and when i put it
back together i got NOTHING. i was like "DANG!" but opened it back up and
realized what i'd done, changed it black to grey, put it back together and
it seems to be running fine now. weee!!! i'm sure i'll be thanking you big
time this coming summer. thing is, now "1" is the fastest speed (thought
"3" was supposed to be fastest). it's running the right direction and it
seems it's also running at full speed. i took a picture (with streamer on
fan) to show you(ze). i was afraid someone was going to say "you just took
a picture when it was windy" so i stuck a pitchfork in the frozen ground
behind it w/ a streamer to show it wasn't windy. :-)
you said the device i removed was probably a thremal fuse, so, i'm assuming
it would be best to not run it unattended now (which i don't do anyhow).

thanks again Jim, you really made my day. practically-brand-new fan rescued
from untimely demise.

http://www.frontiernet.net/~wwixon/fanmotor1.jpg

b.w.
Your problem now is that when your motor fills up with lint and starts
to overheat, there is no thermal cutout to turn it off before it gets
to the point where it starts smouldering and blowing glowing particles
along with a forced draft all over your girlfriends bikini or your
slumbering body.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...
Your problem now is that when your motor fills up with lint and starts
to overheat, there is no thermal cutout to turn it off before it gets
to the point where it starts smouldering and blowing glowing particles
along with a forced draft all over your girlfriends bikini or your
slumbering body.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


yeah, just hope that doesn't happen too soon. i usually don't leave a fan
running unattended, waste of energy. but, if someone knows of what
size/what kind/where i can get one of those tiny glass diode/resistor shaped
thermal "fuses" maybe i could solder one back in and won't have to worry
about setting my girlfriend's bikini on fire etc.

b.w.


flame bikini...
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...venue/8600.jpg

William Wixon wrote:
"Gerald Miller" wrote:
Your problem now is that when your motor fills up with lint and starts
to overheat, there is no thermal cutout to turn it off before it gets
to the point where it starts smouldering and blowing glowing particles
along with a forced draft all over your girlfriends bikini or your
slumbering body.
Gerry :-)}

yeah, just hope that doesn't happen too soon. i usually don't leave a fan
running unattended, waste of energy. but, if someone knows of what
size/what kind/where i can get one of those tiny glass diode/resistor shaped
thermal "fuses" maybe i could solder one back in and won't have to worry
about setting my girlfriend's bikini on fire etc.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/search.aspx?...hermal%20Fuses
--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- &
[dot]=.
*Warning* SPAM TRAP set in header, Use email address in sig. if you must.

On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 08:03:50 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote:

yeah, just hope that doesn't happen too soon. i usually don't leave a fan
running unattended, waste of energy. but, if someone knows of what
size/what kind/where i can get one of those tiny glass diode/resistor shaped
thermal "fuses" maybe i could solder one back in and won't have to worry
about setting my girlfriend's bikini on fire etc.

Hi William,

I don't recall if you said whether or not you still had the
old one. They come in different values and you would most
likely need the old one to get the proper value. Radio Shack
carries some:

http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...thermal%20fuse

Personally I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. Just don't set
it up by a gas can, tissue paper, sheer curtains... We got
along pretty well for a good many years without those
thermal devices in everything with a bit of common sense.
Which seems to be sorely lacking nowadays...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 08:03:50 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote:



yeah, just hope that doesn't happen too soon. i usually don't leave a fan
running unattended, waste of energy. but, if someone knows of what
size/what kind/where i can get one of those tiny glass diode/resistor shaped
thermal "fuses" maybe i could solder one back in and won't have to worry
about setting my girlfriend's bikini on fire etc.

b.w.


flame bikini...
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...venue/8600.jpg

Last time I needed one, I bought it at the local Radio Shack.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 08:03:50 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote:


"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
.. .
Your problem now is that when your motor fills up with lint and starts
to overheat, there is no thermal cutout to turn it off before it gets
to the point where it starts smouldering and blowing glowing particles
along with a forced draft all over your girlfriends bikini or your
slumbering body.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


yeah, just hope that doesn't happen too soon. i usually don't leave a fan
running unattended, waste of energy. but, if someone knows of what
size/what kind/where i can get one of those tiny glass diode/resistor shaped
thermal "fuses" maybe i could solder one back in and won't have to worry
about setting my girlfriend's bikini on fire etc.

The trick is reading the part number on the old piece to get the
rating - usually in Degrees Celsius. Or finding the manufacturer to
get the right rating. Any decent appliance parts supplier has them.

You can guess, but if you do guess LOW. Better to deal with a
nuisance trip than flames.

-- Bruce --



--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

On Fri, 24 Feb 2006 04:26:02 GMT, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 08:03:50 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote:


"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
. ..
Your problem now is that when your motor fills up with lint and starts
to overheat, there is no thermal cutout to turn it off before it gets
to the point where it starts smouldering and blowing glowing particles
along with a forced draft all over your girlfriends bikini or your
slumbering body.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


Generally they are 144C units.
RatShack thermal fuse # 270-1320, a 144 degree C, $1.49 part

Also available from your local Chrysler dealer. Ask for a Dodge
Stratus heater resistor thermal fuse. It'll cost you about 10 times as
much as the "shack" part.




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