We need to make a custom auto repair tool for extracting a bushing.
The bushing is ~~2" ID and 1.5" length.

The needed puller is best envisioned as large Greenlee punch; the inner
die will force the hollow donut into the outer cup; the cup fits atop
notches on the car frame.

The "punch" part is not the problem; it's the force needed.

Some people have made pullers with screw threads; but with conventional
thread, and the high forces, they soon get trashed. We considered buying
Acme threaded rod & nuts, but cranking down on it is a PITA anyhow as the
far end will spin...and shift off center.

Ideally, we take something that costs about what a Harbor Fright bottle
jack does, and make it pull not push. Any great ideas??


--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

David Lesher wrote:

We need to make a custom auto repair tool for extracting a bushing.
The bushing is ~~2" ID and 1.5" length.

The needed puller is best envisioned as large Greenlee punch; the inner
die will force the hollow donut into the outer cup; the cup fits atop
notches on the car frame.

The "punch" part is not the problem; it's the force needed.

Some people have made pullers with screw threads; but with conventional
thread, and the high forces, they soon get trashed. We considered buying
Acme threaded rod & nuts, but cranking down on it is a PITA anyhow as the
far end will spin...and shift off center.

Ideally, we take something that costs about what a Harbor Fright bottle
jack does, and make it pull not push. Any great ideas??

Harbor Freight has both pullback rams to go with the hand pumps that may
work as well as a clone of the Greenlee hydraulic punch puller with the
separate pull cylinder and hand pump.

We used to call them "porta power", but a google search on that now
yields rechargeable batteries, etc.

Take this link. There's bound to be some of what you need in the kits:

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...ower&Submit=Go

Pete Stanaitis
----------------

David Lesher wrote:
We need to make a custom auto repair tool for extracting a bushing.
The bushing is ~~2" ID and 1.5" length.

The needed puller is best envisioned as large Greenlee punch; the inner
die will force the hollow donut into the outer cup; the cup fits atop
notches on the car frame.

The "punch" part is not the problem; it's the force needed.

Some people have made pullers with screw threads; but with conventional
thread, and the high forces, they soon get trashed. We considered buying
Acme threaded rod & nuts, but cranking down on it is a PITA anyhow as the
far end will spin...and shift off center.

Ideally, we take something that costs about what a Harbor Fright bottle
jack does, and make it pull not push. Any great ideas??

"Pete C." writes:

Ideally, we take something that costs about what a Harbor Fright bottle
jack does, and make it pull not push. Any great ideas??

Harbor Freight has both pullback rams to go with the hand pumps that may
work as well as a clone of the Greenlee hydraulic punch puller with the
separate pull cylinder and hand pump.

At many times the price. That's the issue. A bottle jack is $10-20.
The pullback ram kits end up being $100-$150...

David Lesher writes:

At many times the price. That's the issue. A bottle jack is $10-20.
The pullback ram kits end up being $100-$150.

Surely if you're skilled and capable of doing that kind of work, your time
is worth far more than it would take to improvise a pullback ram out of a
bottle jack.

Richard J Kinch writes:

David Lesher writes:

At many times the price. That's the issue. A bottle jack is $10-20.
The pullback ram kits end up being $100-$150.

Surely if you're skilled and capable of doing that kind of work, your time
is worth far more than it would take to improvise a pullback ram out of a
bottle jack.

Given that attitude; I'd pay someone to fix my car, etc. Few hobbies make
sense from a pure dollar aspect.

I was hope the smart folks here could conceive of a new approach; one we
had overlooked.

We are not necessarly looking to make such from a bottle jack. We could,
we think. Connect "cap" to piston, build a saddle
_ _
| |
| |
| |
| |
---

for the jack to sit within, with tabs to the die that does the
pushing. The saddle must reach around the frame rail, of course.


--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

On Feb 25, 4:52*pm, David Lesher wrote:
We need to make a custom auto repair tool for extracting a bushing.
The bushing is ~~2" ID and 1.5" length.

The needed puller is best envisioned as large Greenlee punch; the inner
die will force the hollow donut into the outer cup; the cup fits atop
notches on the car frame.

The "punch" part is not the problem; it's the force needed.

Some people have made pullers with screw threads; but with conventional
thread, and the high forces, they soon get trashed. We considered buying
Acme threaded rod & nuts, but cranking down on it is a PITA anyhow as the
far end will spin...and shift off center.

Ideally, we take something that costs about what a Harbor Fright bottle
jack does, and make it pull not push. Any great ideas??

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

Here's a homemade one:
http://images31.fotki.com/v1100/phot...4/Vise1-vi.jpg

"David Lesher" wrote in message
...

We need to make a custom auto repair tool for extracting a bushing.
The bushing is ~~2" ID and 1.5" length.

The needed puller is best envisioned as large Greenlee punch; the inner
die will force the hollow donut into the outer cup; the cup fits atop
notches on the car frame.

The "punch" part is not the problem; it's the force needed.

Some people have made pullers with screw threads; but with conventional
thread, and the high forces, they soon get trashed. We considered buying
Acme threaded rod & nuts, but cranking down on it is a PITA anyhow as the
far end will spin...and shift off center.

Ideally, we take something that costs about what a Harbor Fright bottle
jack does, and make it pull not push. Any great ideas??


--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
A frame around the jack to reverse the direction of force would be the
cheapest, I think.

Don Young

Can you use a c-frame screw press like those for handling ball joints and
control arm bushings? Those can take a lot of use before they wear out, and
you can use an air ratchet or impact gun to drive them. Just keep the screw
well-lubed. Something like
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335 for
$33.

-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames

"David Lesher" wrote in message
...

We need to make a custom auto repair tool for extracting a bushing.
The bushing is ~~2" ID and 1.5" length.

The needed puller is best envisioned as large Greenlee punch; the inner
die will force the hollow donut into the outer cup; the cup fits atop
notches on the car frame.

The "punch" part is not the problem; it's the force needed.

Some people have made pullers with screw threads; but with conventional
thread, and the high forces, they soon get trashed. We considered buying
Acme threaded rod & nuts, but cranking down on it is a PITA anyhow as the
far end will spin...and shift off center.

Ideally, we take something that costs about what a Harbor Fright bottle
jack does, and make it pull not push. Any great ideas??


--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

David Lesher writes:

Surely if you're skilled and capable of doing that kind of work, your
time is worth far more than it would take to improvise a pullback ram
out of a bottle jack.

Given that attitude; I'd pay someone to fix my car, etc. Few hobbies
make sense from a pure dollar aspect.

Nothing wrong with a hobby approach. I assumed this was some kind of job.
But even in hobbies, make-or-buy ought to be a cold calculation. Not like
getting your car fixed, which I do myself as an oath-bound duty, after
suffering swindles and gouges in my earlier days, and swearing never-again.

Don Foreman writes:

The demotivator here is that folks can probably think of many
approaches that you have rejected because they didn't meet criteria
not mentioned he available space, available tools and skills,
expectation of time to make, how much force is needed, etc etc.

It's real hard to beat a long lever if there's room to deploy it.

There's nothing to pry against. And you'd pull the car off the jackstands.

We do want something easy to make; the idea is to come up with an open
source design other BMW owners/clubs can replicate. (The E30 owner is a
Linux developer...)

The factory tool is who knows, maybe $800-$1000. Aftermarket ones are a
few hundred $, and require a new jackscrew every few uses. Homemade ones
with a bolt/all-thread are one shot or two.... if they work.

If it is possible to use the pump in a bottlejack; we can buy a pull
cylinder.

The H-F "C clamp" would be a good installer but we need to pull:

-------- ---- body w/ hole

NUT
_|_
-|- die with shaft...
|
======|| | ||=====
======|| | ||=====
======|| | ||=====
======|| | ||===== subframe with long donut within
======|| | ||=====
======|| | ||=====
|
\--|-/ Cup
|
NUT

You need to pull the die through, forcing the
|| ||
donut down & out ahead of it. You can't push it out like a ball joint;
there's an upper lip, and no clearance.




--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

On Feb 25, 11:03 pm, "Pete C." wrote:

Harbor Freight has both pullback rams to go with the hand pumps that may
work as well as a clone of the Greenlee hydraulic punch puller with the
separate pull cylinder and hand pump.

I think the last flyer from Harbor Freight had the Greenlee clone at
$70. Looking on the website it was $90. ITEM 96718-3VGA

Dan

On Feb 25, 5:52*pm, David Lesher wrote:

Ideally, we take something that costs about what a Harbor Fright bottle
jack does, and make it pull not push. Any great ideas??

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=5511

You could cut the chain links off to shorten it.

Jim Wilkins

On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 22:52:34 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:


We need to make a custom auto repair tool for extracting a bushing.
The bushing is ~~2" ID and 1.5" length.

The needed puller is best envisioned as large Greenlee punch; the inner
die will force the hollow donut into the outer cup; the cup fits atop
notches on the car frame.

The "punch" part is not the problem; it's the force needed.

Some people have made pullers with screw threads; but with conventional
thread, and the high forces, they soon get trashed. We considered buying
Acme threaded rod & nuts, but cranking down on it is a PITA anyhow as the
far end will spin...and shift off center.

Ideally, we take something that costs about what a Harbor Fright bottle
jack does, and make it pull not push. Any great ideas??

What you need is a hollow ram cylinder for a porta power.
Unfortunately I've not seen any cheap imitations of the name brands in
these. Sometimes you can get lucky on ebay or at a auction (where I
got mine).

Jim Wilkins writes:

On Feb 25, 5:52=A0pm, David Lesher wrote:

Ideally, we take something that costs about what a Harbor Fright bottle
jack does, and make it pull not push. Any great ideas??

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...mnumber=3D5511


The Specifications for this item are not
currently available online, or the item has
been discontinued
--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 22:52:34 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:

snip
Some people have made pullers with screw threads; but with conventional
thread, and the high forces, they soon get trashed. We considered buying
Acme threaded rod & nuts, but cranking down on it is a PITA anyhow as the
far end will spin...and shift off center.

I think you would be okay using the thread method as long as
you include a thrust bearing. Like this Harbor Freight
punch:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91201

Note the thrust bearing by the head of the bolt. I've used
this type before (not by HF though) and the thrust bearing
makes a world of difference.

Get the largest bolt practical and/or thrust bearing to go
along with it. If it don't work well enough you can keep
your eye open for a hydraulic method that fits your budget
(shrug).

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 22:52:34 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:


We need to make a custom auto repair tool for extracting a bushing.
The bushing is ~~2" ID and 1.5" length.

The needed puller is best envisioned as large Greenlee punch; the inner
die will force the hollow donut into the outer cup; the cup fits atop
notches on the car frame.

The "punch" part is not the problem; it's the force needed.

Some people have made pullers with screw threads; but with conventional
thread, and the high forces, they soon get trashed. We considered buying
Acme threaded rod & nuts, but cranking down on it is a PITA anyhow as the
far end will spin...and shift off center.

Ideally, we take something that costs about what a Harbor Fright bottle
jack does, and make it pull not push. Any great ideas??

Leon Fisk noted the benefit of a thrust bearing. Note that it would
need to ride on a hardened disc or surface.

Now, consider a bolt inside a bushing that is threaded both inside and
outside. The bolt might be 18 TPI while the bushing on the outside
might be 16 TPI riding in a threaded collar. In use, you use two
wrenches, simultaneously rotating the bolt clockwise and the bushing
counterclockwise, effectively screwing the bolt "in" as the bushing
screws "out" (for RH threads). The result is a differential motion of
1/16 - 1\18 inch per turn, or 1/144 inch (.00694) net. You get the
benefit of thick, robust threads while the differential action
provides enormous mechanical advantage. Lube the threads with
high-pressure lube.

For pulling use a hollow ram with a pull rod through the center, powered by
a hydraulic hand pump. No C-frame required. Like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Enerpac-RCH-202-...1%7C240%3A1318

From Enerpac site:
http://www.enerpac.com/en/products/c...hollow-plunger
and
http://www.enerpac.com/en/literature...system-set-ups

Neither Northern Tool nor Harbor Freight seem to offer a comparable one for
hobby use.

David Merrill


"David Lesher" wrote in message
...

We need to make a custom auto repair tool for extracting a bushing.
The bushing is ~~2" ID and 1.5" length.

The needed puller is best envisioned as large Greenlee punch; the inner
die will force the hollow donut into the outer cup; the cup fits atop
notches on the car frame.

The "punch" part is not the problem; it's the force needed.

Some people have made pullers with screw threads; but with conventional
thread, and the high forces, they soon get trashed. We considered buying
Acme threaded rod & nuts, but cranking down on it is a PITA anyhow as the
far end will spin...and shift off center.

Ideally, we take something that costs about what a Harbor Fright bottle
jack does, and make it pull not push. Any great ideas??

"David Merrill" writes:

For pulling use a hollow ram with a pull rod through the center, powered by
a hydraulic hand pump.

Hmm. So the shaft passes all the way through the piston; while the
piston pushes the cup.

Many of the jacks have threaded extenders; if you pull same, what is
under it? Is the whole piston hollow?


--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 01:17:26 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:

"David Merrill" writes:

For pulling use a hollow ram with a pull rod through the center, powered by
a hydraulic hand pump.

Hmm. So the shaft passes all the way through the piston; while the
piston pushes the cup.

Many of the jacks have threaded extenders; if you pull same, what is
under it? Is the whole piston hollow?

The piston is hollow but you will pull the thread insert out.

On Thu, 26 Feb 2009 15:20:16 -0400, the infamous Leon Fisk
scrawled the following:

On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 22:52:34 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:

snip
Some people have made pullers with screw threads; but with conventional
thread, and the high forces, they soon get trashed. We considered buying
Acme threaded rod & nuts, but cranking down on it is a PITA anyhow as the
far end will spin...and shift off center.

I think you would be okay using the thread method as long as
you include a thrust bearing. Like this Harbor Freight
punch:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91201

RUN AWAY! RUN AWAY! I tried one of these and immediately took it back
for my money back. The difference between diameters of the die
threads and bolt threads was about 0.02, enough to wobble noticeably
and never quite tighten down, let alone CUT something between the
dies. I picked up a Greenlee 737 kit for the same price off eBay.

--
"Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein
-=-=-

Andy Asberry writes:

Many of the jacks have threaded extenders; if you pull same, what is
under it? Is the whole piston hollow?

The piston is hollow but you will pull the thread insert out.

The piston will push; I want the tension rod to go through it and attach
to the base...

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

David Lesher wrote:
Andy Asberry writes:

Many of the jacks have threaded extenders; if you pull same, what is
under it? Is the whole piston hollow?

The piston is hollow but you will pull the thread insert out.

The piston will push; I want the tension rod to go through it and attach
to the base...

You could use a dual - acting cylinder and suck the sleeve out:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...name=hydraulic

Himfella will pull with a force of ~1900 lbs. if provided 2000 PSIG oil.

As you can see, there are *many* other sizes of cylinder available
from these folks.

--Winston


--

Welds made for grinding.
Faces made for USENET.
rec.crafts.metalworking

"David Lesher" wrote in message
...

We need to make a custom auto repair tool for extracting a bushing.
The bushing is ~~2" ID and 1.5" length.

The needed puller is best envisioned as large Greenlee punch; the inner
die will force the hollow donut into the outer cup; the cup fits atop
notches on the car frame.

The "punch" part is not the problem; it's the force needed.

Some people have made pullers with screw threads; but with conventional
thread, and the high forces, they soon get trashed. We considered buying
Acme threaded rod & nuts, but cranking down on it is a PITA anyhow as the
far end will spin...and shift off center.

Ideally, we take something that costs about what a Harbor Fright bottle
jack does, and make it pull not push. Any great ideas??


For some one off jobs, at the shop I used to work at the boss made shop made
porta-power type cylinders. He wetted leather and made cup seals and
drilled and installed a grease zerk for pressure. The hydraulic pump was a
grease gun and the hydraulic fluid was grease. Some grease guns pump up to
10,000 PSI. You have to clean the grease out of it and re-assemble after
every use but it made an easy specialty porta-power cylinder.

RogerN

On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 22:52:34 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:


We need to make a custom auto repair tool for extracting a bushing.
The bushing is ~~2" ID and 1.5" length.

The needed puller is best envisioned as large Greenlee punch; the inner
die will force the hollow donut into the outer cup; the cup fits atop
notches on the car frame.

The "punch" part is not the problem; it's the force needed.

Some people have made pullers with screw threads; but with conventional
thread, and the high forces, they soon get trashed. We considered buying
Acme threaded rod & nuts, but cranking down on it is a PITA anyhow as the
far end will spin...and shift off center.

Ideally, we take something that costs about what a Harbor Fright bottle
jack does, and make it pull not push. Any great ideas??

No ideas, but some of you might get a chuckle from this photo
http://www.citlink.net/~wmbjk/images/pinpuller.jpg of a somewhat
similar project - to pull 4 seized pins out of two old road graders. I
built a frame to accommodate the ram from my 50 ton press (10,000 psi
pump), and welded the frame to each pin in succession. On a couple of
them I thought I was going to run out of hydraulic force just before
they popped free. A whole day's work required because decades ago some
folks couldn't be bothered to use a little ant-seize.

Wayne

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 07:42:46 -0700,
wrote:

snip
No ideas, but some of you might get a chuckle from this photo
http://www.citlink.net/~wmbjk/images/pinpuller.jpg of a somewhat
similar project - to pull 4 seized pins out of two old road graders. I
built a frame to accommodate the ram from my 50 ton press (10,000 psi
pump), and welded the frame to each pin in succession. On a couple of
them I thought I was going to run out of hydraulic force just before
they popped free. A whole day's work required because decades ago some
folks couldn't be bothered to use a little ant-seize.

Sweet! I like how you used two support jacks to hold up the
whole works.

I'll bet the big POP/wrenching noise the ornery ones gave
when they let loose was almost as good as an orgasm. Of
course, if you are old enough, it was probably even better
;-)

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Thu, 26 Feb 2009 14:10:41 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

Leon Fisk noted the benefit of a thrust bearing. Note that it would
need to ride on a hardened disc or surface.

Now, consider a bolt inside a bushing that is threaded both inside and
outside. The bolt might be 18 TPI while the bushing on the outside
might be 16 TPI riding in a threaded collar. In use, you use two
wrenches, simultaneously rotating the bolt clockwise and the bushing
counterclockwise, effectively screwing the bolt "in" as the bushing
screws "out" (for RH threads). The result is a differential motion of
1/16 - 1\18 inch per turn, or 1/144 inch (.00694) net. You get the
benefit of thick, robust threads while the differential action
provides enormous mechanical advantage. Lube the threads with
high-pressure lube.

This thrust bearing:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#60715K15

has the following specs:

Part Number: 60715K15 $18.55 Each
Type Integrated Ball Bearings
Integrated Ball Bearing Type Shielded
For Shaft Diameter 1"
Outside Diameter 1-31/32"
Thickness 5/8"
Dynamic Thrust Load Cap, lbs. 6,700
Maximum rpm 3,800
Bearing Material Steel
Washer Material 52100 Hardened Steel
Temperature Range -40° to +250° F

Provided you can make something to go on the end of a 1 inch
bolt to hook the inside of the bushing.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 14:52:29 -0600, Andy Asberry
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 07:42:46 -0700, wrote:



No ideas, but some of you might get a chuckle from this photo
http://www.citlink.net/~wmbjk/images/pinpuller.jpg of a somewhat
similar project - to pull 4 seized pins out of two old road graders. I
built a frame to accommodate the ram from my 50 ton press (10,000 psi
pump), and welded the frame to each pin in succession. On a couple of
them I thought I was going to run out of hydraulic force just before
they popped free. A whole day's work required because decades ago some
folks couldn't be bothered to use a little ant-seize.

Wayne


A hose with 10,000 psi sure gets stiff, don't it?

Heck, I didn't even notice. The pins are supposed to be a slip fit, so
I started out with short welds thinking I could save some time
grinding them off later. On the first pin I went through the break
it/reweld it process twice before finally getting the weld strong
enough to handle the force. So all I was thinking about when pumping
the lever was that with every stroke getting harder, it'll either pop
or else I'm in for another half-hour. :-)

Wayne

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 15:01:35 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 07:42:46 -0700,
wrote:

snip
No ideas, but some of you might get a chuckle from this photo
http://www.citlink.net/~wmbjk/images/pinpuller.jpg of a somewhat
similar project - to pull 4 seized pins out of two old road graders. I
built a frame to accommodate the ram from my 50 ton press (10,000 psi
pump), and welded the frame to each pin in succession. On a couple of
them I thought I was going to run out of hydraulic force just before
they popped free. A whole day's work required because decades ago some
folks couldn't be bothered to use a little ant-seize.

Sweet! I like how you used two support jacks to hold up the
whole works.

I needed the bottle jack to take the load off the front axle. There
was another one there earlier to hold the frame up until it was welded
to the pin. It was one of those jobs where it takes a half hour just
to drag all the tools back to the shop. Note wheelbarrow here
http://www.citlink.net/~wmbjk/images/debrisfield.jpg.

I'll bet the big POP/wrenching noise the ornery ones gave
when they let loose was almost as good as an orgasm. Of
course, if you are old enough, it was probably even better
;-)

If I'd thought of it, I might have struck a hands-on-hip Superman
pose. :-)

Wayne