I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)

I had the first batch waterjet cut and it was both expensive and somewhat wateful of the expensive screen.

I tried setting up a fixutre on my CNC mill to mill a circle in two steps....
(Unclamp one set of clamps and reclamp a different set of already set clamps) and the quality of the edge
was not good as the loose wires on the edge enede up splayed apart vertically as the mill cut them.
I really need a clean cut leaving the material flat.
It also took forever.....


Some sort of punch arangement might work, but its an odd size so I'd probably have to make the
punch inner and outer myself and doing 400 operations on the hand pumped hydralic press does not sound fun.


Any good ideas?

wrote in message
...
I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)

I had the first batch waterjet cut and it was both expensive and somewhat
wateful of the expensive screen.

I tried setting up a fixutre on my CNC mill to mill a circle in two
steps....
(Unclamp one set of clamps and reclamp a different set of already set
clamps) and the quality of the edge
was not good as the loose wires on the edge enede up splayed apart
vertically as the mill cut them.
I really need a clean cut leaving the material flat.
It also took forever.....


Some sort of punch arangement might work, but its an odd size so I'd
probably have to make the
punch inner and outer myself and doing 400 operations on the hand pumped
hydralic press does not sound fun.


Any good ideas?


I just cut some steel screen with my CNC plasma cutter and was pleased with
the way it turned out. I can't comment on the nickel screen but plasma table
time is considerably cheaper than waterjet.
Steve

On 2009-02-19, wrote:
I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)

I had the first batch waterjet cut and it was both expensive and somewhat wateful of the expensive screen.

I tried setting up a fixutre on my CNC mill to mill a circle in two steps....
(Unclamp one set of clamps and reclamp a different set of already set clamps) and the quality of the edge
was not good as the loose wires on the edge enede up splayed apart vertically as the mill cut them.
I really need a clean cut leaving the material flat.
It also took forever.....


Some sort of punch arangement might work, but its an odd size so I'd probably have to make the
punch inner and outer myself and doing 400 operations on the hand pumped hydralic press does not sound fun.

plasma cutter with circle attachment? (do not forget ventilation)

air over hydraulic press?
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

wrote in message
...
I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)

I had the first batch waterjet cut and it was both expensive and somewhat
wateful of the expensive screen.

I tried setting up a fixutre on my CNC mill to mill a circle in two
steps....
(Unclamp one set of clamps and reclamp a different set of already set
clamps) and the quality of the edge
was not good as the loose wires on the edge enede up splayed apart
vertically as the mill cut them.
I really need a clean cut leaving the material flat.
It also took forever.....


Some sort of punch arangement might work, but its an odd size so I'd
probably have to make the
punch inner and outer myself and doing 400 operations on the hand pumped
hydralic press does not sound fun.


Any good ideas?

(1) Laser.

(2) Steel-rule die. But because it's a circle, and not too large, I wouldn't
send out to have a conventional steel-rule die made. I'd turn one out of a
disk of steel on the lathe and harden it. As it dulls, you can just re-grind
(or even re-turn) the edge.

Then I'd try cutting out the screen by whacking the back of the die with a
plastic mallet. Try cutting into end-grain wood. If that's too soft, cut
into a sheet of aluminum.

This would be tedious for 400 pieces but you probably could turn the die and
cut the pieces before you could make a matching punch-and-die set and set up
the clearance and alignment, etc.

BTW, don't be tempted by wirecut EDM. The electrical discontinuity will keep
breaking wires.

--
Ed Huntress

On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 11:24:13 -0800, wrote:

I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)

Perhaps one of these places has a suitable tool.
http://www.bokers.com/fast_quote.asp
http://www.phoenixspecialty.com/prod_quote.php

--
Ned Simmons

fired this volley in
:

I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)


I'd check with one of the firms that makes injection moulding filters.
They might be able to do a short run cheaper than you can make or buy
the tools.

LLoyd

wrote:
I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)

I had the first batch waterjet cut and it was both expensive and somewhat wateful of the expensive screen.

I tried setting up a fixutre on my CNC mill to mill a circle in two steps....
(Unclamp one set of clamps and reclamp a different set of already set clamps) and the quality of the edge
was not good as the loose wires on the edge enede up splayed apart vertically as the mill cut them.
I really need a clean cut leaving the material flat.
It also took forever.....


Some sort of punch arangement might work, but its an odd size so I'd probably have to make the
punch inner and outer myself and doing 400 operations on the hand pumped hydralic press does not sound fun.


Any good ideas?









If you can make the punch and die yourself then what about a fly press,
called a screw press in the US I think. In the UK they are cheap 2nd
hand and readily available.

On Feb 19, 7:24 pm, wrote:
I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)

Any good ideas?

I am not sure it is a good idea, but my first try would be to make
something more or less like the steel rule die described by Ed
Huntress. Except I would have a shank on it so it was like a
toothless hole saw. Then try using it in my drillpress at the lowest
speed possible. I would probably try out the concept with one made
from some 1 inch dia steel bar, before making the full sized one.


Dan

wrote in message
...
On Feb 19, 7:24 pm, wrote:
I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)

Any good ideas?

I am not sure it is a good idea, but my first try would be to make
something more or less like the steel rule die described by Ed
Huntress. Except I would have a shank on it so it was like a
toothless hole saw. Then try using it in my drillpress at the lowest
speed possible. I would probably try out the concept with one made
from some 1 inch dia steel bar, before making the full sized one.



I work with nickel 200 all the time Dan and as a forged solid it just mushes
unless the cutting edge is extermely sharp. Screen would be a real pain.
Water Jet is probably going to give the best result and the circles can be
laid out to optomize the material.
I wouldn't even bother to try and laser cut it.

JC

wrote in message
...
I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)

I had the first batch waterjet cut and it was both expensive and somewhat
wateful of the expensive screen.

I tried setting up a fixutre on my CNC mill to mill a circle in two
steps....
(Unclamp one set of clamps and reclamp a different set of already set
clamps) and the quality of the edge
was not good as the loose wires on the edge enede up splayed apart
vertically as the mill cut them.
I really need a clean cut leaving the material flat.
It also took forever.....


Some sort of punch arangement might work, but its an odd size so I'd
probably have to make the
punch inner and outer myself and doing 400 operations on the hand pumped
hydralic press does not sound fun.


Any good ideas?



Have you considered clamping them between two steel diameters on a lathe,
rotating them at 10 to 20 rpm, and cross grinding them with a 4.5" grinder
and sanding disk?

You might be able to do several at a time.

On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 11:24:13 -0800, wrote:

I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)

I had the first batch waterjet cut and it was both expensive and somewhat wateful of the expensive screen.

I tried setting up a fixutre on my CNC mill to mill a circle in two steps....
(Unclamp one set of clamps and reclamp a different set of already set clamps) and the quality of the edge
was not good as the loose wires on the edge enede up splayed apart vertically as the mill cut them.
I really need a clean cut leaving the material flat.
It also took forever.....


Some sort of punch arangement might work, but its an odd size so I'd probably have to make the
punch inner and outer myself and doing 400 operations on the hand pumped hydralic press does not sound fun.


Any good ideas?
===========
My first thought would be to do a web search and contact the
screen manufacturers and buy the parts complete. This may be an
off the shelf part for an aircraft fuel filter or something.

If you don't have one, do a good drawing of the part, or complete
specs, and send them an email w/attachment.

google on circles OR disks "woven wire" for 17.8k hits or see

http://www.darbywire.com/pennsylvania_wire_cloth.htm
http://www.hillsidewirecloth.com/
http://uniquewire.com/
http://www.integritywovenwire.com/
http://www.engnetglobal.com/c/c.aspx/MER001
to start

Good luck, and Let the group know what you find and how you make
out.


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
-------------------------------------------
He that will not apply new remedies,
must expect new evils:
for Time is the greatest innovator: and
if Time, of course, alter things to the worse,
and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better,
what shall be the end?

Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman.
Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).

First thought would be to call Purolator EFP in Texas and see if they can
punch them.
They are the supplier for my extruder screenpacks, nice people.

Second choice would be to try it on the CNC router. Toss the screen on a
spoilboard,
top it with a sheet of thin vinyl and hit the vacuum to hold it. Then cut
it with a solid
carbide straight O flute cutter.

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)

I had the first batch waterjet cut and it was both expensive and
somewhat
wateful of the expensive screen.

I tried setting up a fixutre on my CNC mill to mill a circle in two
steps....
(Unclamp one set of clamps and reclamp a different set of already set
clamps) and the quality of the edge
was not good as the loose wires on the edge enede up splayed apart
vertically as the mill cut them.
I really need a clean cut leaving the material flat.
It also took forever.....


Some sort of punch arangement might work, but its an odd size so I'd
probably have to make the
punch inner and outer myself and doing 400 operations on the hand pumped
hydralic press does not sound fun.


Any good ideas?

(1) Laser.

(2) Steel-rule die. But because it's a circle, and not too large, I
wouldn't
send out to have a conventional steel-rule die made. I'd turn one out of a
disk of steel on the lathe and harden it. As it dulls, you can just
re-grind
(or even re-turn) the edge.

Then I'd try cutting out the screen by whacking the back of the die with a
plastic mallet. Try cutting into end-grain wood. If that's too soft, cut
into a sheet of aluminum.

This would be tedious for 400 pieces but you probably could turn the die
and
cut the pieces before you could make a matching punch-and-die set and set
up
the clearance and alignment, etc.



I second the idea of a steel rule die, and at the price of them I would not
hesitate to get the die made up. They are just chunks of plywood with a
strip of pre-sharpened spring steel fir into a saw kerf in the plywood.

For a press you could use an arbor press and that should have enough oomph
to do the job. Harbor freight has some cheapies that would do just fine on
a task like this.

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.

wrote in message
...
I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)

I had the first batch waterjet cut and it was both expensive and somewhat
wateful of the expensive screen.

I tried setting up a fixutre on my CNC mill to mill a circle in two
steps....
(Unclamp one set of clamps and reclamp a different set of already set
clamps) and the quality of the edge
was not good as the loose wires on the edge enede up splayed apart
vertically as the mill cut them.
I really need a clean cut leaving the material flat.
It also took forever.....


Some sort of punch arangement might work, but its an odd size so I'd
probably have to make the
punch inner and outer myself and doing 400 operations on the hand pumped
hydralic press does not sound fun.


Any good ideas?

Punch and die on a press. If you make the punch and die, I'll run them for
free. I'd want @$200 to do the die work.

Igii - you missed the CNC plasma. Like I have maybe.
I turn on the Hypertherm 600 into restart mode - not one start pulse
and it will cut wire screen or stuff with lots of holes.

I cut circles out of my scrap metal. Figure I can always use large
fender washers or stack plates..... - let the circle rust on concrete
not the machine...

Martin

Ignoramus8591 wrote:
On 2009-02-19, wrote:
I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)

I had the first batch waterjet cut and it was both expensive and somewhat wateful of the expensive screen.

I tried setting up a fixutre on my CNC mill to mill a circle in two steps....
(Unclamp one set of clamps and reclamp a different set of already set clamps) and the quality of the edge
was not good as the loose wires on the edge enede up splayed apart vertically as the mill cut them.
I really need a clean cut leaving the material flat.
It also took forever.....


Some sort of punch arangement might work, but its an odd size so I'd probably have to make the
punch inner and outer myself and doing 400 operations on the hand pumped hydralic press does not sound fun.

plasma cutter with circle attachment? (do not forget ventilation)

air over hydraulic press?

wrote:

I had the first batch waterjet cut and it was both expensive and somewhat wateful of the expensive screen.

Why was it wasteful?

Wes

"John R. Carroll" wrote:

I work with nickel 200 all the time Dan and as a forged solid it just mushes
unless the cutting edge is extermely sharp.

How hard is Nickel 200? I wasn't doing so well with my google tonight.

Before I got down to your post I raised the question of why is waterjet wasteful. I've
only worked with non abrasive WJ but abrasive jet can't have that much more kerf.

The steel rule die ideas seemed like they might not be a good idea. I know what those
are, I've re-ruled a few in a past occupation. We made package trays out of formed wood
fiber. Developing a 2D blank for a 3D forming application took a bit of empirical work.

Tip, draw a cross hatch of lines on a non trimmed blank. Interpolate and plot from there.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

"Wes" wrote in message
...
"John R. Carroll" wrote:

I work with nickel 200 all the time Dan and as a forged solid it just
mushes
unless the cutting edge is extermely sharp.

How hard is Nickel 200?

It's about like copper. Deburring the stuff is a real problem.

JC

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 02:59:58 -0500, Wes wrote:

The steel rule die ideas seemed like they might not be a good idea.

A clicker die might be more suitable. They're not very expensive, easy
to resharpen, and much sturdier than a steel rule die.

--
Ned Simmons

"John R. Carroll" wrote:

How hard is Nickel 200?

It's about like copper. Deburring the stuff is a real problem.


Thanks

On Feb 19, 9:59 pm, "John R. Carroll"

I work with nickel 200 all the time Dan and as a forged solid it just mushes
unless the cutting edge is extermely sharp. Screen would be a real pain.
Water Jet is probably going to give the best result and the circles can be
laid out to optomize the material.
I wouldn't even bother to try and laser cut it.

JC

Like I said, it might not be a good idea, but I would try it anyway.
Making a 1 inch diameter tool would not take much time and it could be
tried on scrap material from the first batch that were made. If it
mushes, but separates, then one can decide if the edge is acceptable.
I don't know the application, so maybe the edge would be acceptable.

Dan

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 02:59:58 -0500, Wes wrote:

The steel rule die ideas seemed like they might not be a good idea.

A clicker die might be more suitable. They're not very expensive, easy
to resharpen, and much sturdier than a steel rule die.

--
Ned Simmons

This is just a guess, but any kind of two-piece die, it seems to me, is
going to be tricky for cutting nickel-based screen material.

There are two problems I can see with it. First, the material is thin, so
clearances are going to be close and fairly critical, especially because you
only need to leave one wire incompletely cut to make a mess of the mesh. The
punch would only have to be slightly misaligned and it would leave uncut
wires. Second, nickel alloys are generally gummy, which makes it important
to keep edges sharp in the die.

Of course, guessing is not a good way to engineer a die, and there may be
some info around somewhere about dies for cutting wire screen. But I still
think a steel-rule die, probably into aluminum sheet, is going to give the
best result, short of a good two-piece dieset with guides and perfect
clearances.

It's something you could test in a few minutes, if you have a lathe and a
piece of oil-hardening tool steel handy.

--
Ed Huntress

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 09:47:25 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 02:59:58 -0500, Wes wrote:

The steel rule die ideas seemed like they might not be a good idea.

A clicker die might be more suitable. They're not very expensive, easy
to resharpen, and much sturdier than a steel rule die.

--
Ned Simmons

This is just a guess, but any kind of two-piece die, it seems to me, is
going to be tricky for cutting nickel-based screen material.

A clicker die is not two pieces -- it's much like a steel rule die,
but is beefier and has no backing.

steel rule dies:
http://www.schroederinc.com/flat/

clicker dies:
http://www.schroederinc.com/clicker/

--
Ned Simmons

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 09:47:25 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 02:59:58 -0500, Wes wrote:

The steel rule die ideas seemed like they might not be a good idea.

A clicker die might be more suitable. They're not very expensive, easy
to resharpen, and much sturdier than a steel rule die.

--
Ned Simmons

This is just a guess, but any kind of two-piece die, it seems to me, is
going to be tricky for cutting nickel-based screen material.

A clicker die is not two pieces -- it's much like a steel rule die,
but is beefier and has no backing.

steel rule dies:
http://www.schroederinc.com/flat/

clicker dies:
http://www.schroederinc.com/clicker/

--
Ned Simmons

I think of clicker dies for cutting soft fabric, but aren't they about the
same thing as what we're describing? If you take a piece of steel bar, for
example, and recess the end so that you have a steel-rule-type edge, isn't
that about the same as a clicker die, only a lot more rigid?

--
Ed Huntress

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 02:59:58 -0500, Wes wrote:

The steel rule die ideas seemed like they might not be a good idea.

A clicker die might be more suitable. They're not very expensive, easy
to resharpen, and much sturdier than a steel rule die.

--
Ned Simmons

Ah, I'm getting too many things mixed up in my mind. When you first
mentioned clicker dies, I was thinking about those two-edged dies made out
of a single piece of steel, used for cutting foil and other thin materials.
Then "clicker" clicked, and I forgot what I had been thinking about before.
g

Sorry for the confusion, Ned.

--
Ed Huntress

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 09:47:25 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:

Here's what I'm talking about, only a circle die can be easily turned on a
lathe, rather than milled:

http://www.swansondie.com/milled.htm

The illustrations are not clear, but what it amounts to is a steel-rule or
clicker die milled (or turned) from a solid piece of stock.

--
Ed Huntress

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:20:15 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 09:47:25 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 02:59:58 -0500, Wes wrote:

The steel rule die ideas seemed like they might not be a good idea.

A clicker die might be more suitable. They're not very expensive, easy
to resharpen, and much sturdier than a steel rule die.

--
Ned Simmons

This is just a guess, but any kind of two-piece die, it seems to me, is
going to be tricky for cutting nickel-based screen material.

A clicker die is not two pieces -- it's much like a steel rule die,
but is beefier and has no backing.

steel rule dies:
http://www.schroederinc.com/flat/

clicker dies:
http://www.schroederinc.com/clicker/

--
Ned Simmons

I think of clicker dies for cutting soft fabric, but aren't they about the
same thing as what we're describing? If you take a piece of steel bar, for
example, and recess the end so that you have a steel-rule-type edge, isn't
that about the same as a clicker die, only a lot more rigid?

Here in what used to be shoe country a steel rule die is a light strip
of steel set in a plywood backing that's usually mounted in a press.

A clicker die is typically loose and manually placed on the material
to be cut by the operator. The head on a clicker press swings out of
the way to allow placement of the dies or dies and removal of the cut
pieces. Multiple dies can be used simultaneously.

http://www.rfbassociates.com/clickerpresses

A clicker die can be mounted in a larger press and the cutting head
and/or the material indexed. The dies are then usually "high dies" to
allow for a stack of material to accumulate in the die. One of my
customers cuts stacks of heavy composition board in this way. The
stuff is like sole leather and is stacked perhaps 1/2" thick.

This page shows the proportions of the material clicker dies are made
of.
http://www.globaldie.com/presharp.html

--
Ned Simmons

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:20:15 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 09:47:25 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
m...
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 02:59:58 -0500, Wes wrote:

The steel rule die ideas seemed like they might not be a good idea.

A clicker die might be more suitable. They're not very expensive, easy
to resharpen, and much sturdier than a steel rule die.

--
Ned Simmons

This is just a guess, but any kind of two-piece die, it seems to me, is
going to be tricky for cutting nickel-based screen material.

A clicker die is not two pieces -- it's much like a steel rule die,
but is beefier and has no backing.

steel rule dies:
http://www.schroederinc.com/flat/

clicker dies:
http://www.schroederinc.com/clicker/

--
Ned Simmons

I think of clicker dies for cutting soft fabric, but aren't they about the
same thing as what we're describing? If you take a piece of steel bar, for
example, and recess the end so that you have a steel-rule-type edge, isn't
that about the same as a clicker die, only a lot more rigid?

Here in what used to be shoe country a steel rule die is a light strip
of steel set in a plywood backing that's usually mounted in a press.

A clicker die is typically loose and manually placed on the material
to be cut by the operator. The head on a clicker press swings out of
the way to allow placement of the dies or dies and removal of the cut
pieces. Multiple dies can be used simultaneously.

http://www.rfbassociates.com/clickerpresses

A clicker die can be mounted in a larger press and the cutting head
and/or the material indexed. The dies are then usually "high dies" to
allow for a stack of material to accumulate in the die. One of my
customers cuts stacks of heavy composition board in this way. The
stuff is like sole leather and is stacked perhaps 1/2" thick.

This page shows the proportions of the material clicker dies are made
of.
http://www.globaldie.com/presharp.html

--
Ned Simmons

Thanks, Ned. Yes, I finally got it. g I was confusing these things with
another type of die.

--
Ed Huntress

wrote in message
...
I need to punch or cutout about 400 5.790" diameter circles from
some various fine nickel woven screen. (thickest is 0.016" thick)

I had the first batch waterjet cut and it was both expensive and somewhat
wateful of the expensive screen.

I tried setting up a fixutre on my CNC mill to mill a circle in two
steps....
(Unclamp one set of clamps and reclamp a different set of already set
clamps) and the quality of the edge
was not good as the loose wires on the edge enede up splayed apart
vertically as the mill cut them.
I really need a clean cut leaving the material flat.
It also took forever.....


Some sort of punch arangement might work, but its an odd size so I'd
probably have to make the
punch inner and outer myself and doing 400 operations on the hand pumped
hydralic press does not sound fun.

Well, if you can setup a punch arrangement that works you can buy an air
operated hydraulic jack for your press for about $80 from HF for a 12 ton.
I finally broke down and got one for my press last year. Just gotta be
careful not to over press stuff. Mine had a lock lever on the air valve
that I took off because it would lock on and I would over press some things
before I could get it unlocked. Also, for "fine" work I still make the last
part of the operation by hand. Ilike the air operated hydraulic jack so
much I am thinking about getting a couple more of them just to be handy
around the shop.

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:23:11 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


Sorry for the confusion, Ned.

No problem. I was beginning to think there might be regional
differences in how folks refer to these things.

This is one of my customer's big beam cutters that runs high dies
cutting shapes out of roll stock. This one has two cutting heads that
can rotate to nest the cuts.
http://www.suscom-maine.net/~nsimmon...osaurus2sm.jpg
http://www.suscom-maine.net/~nsimmon...osaurus3sm.jpg

--
Ned Simmons

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:23:11 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


Sorry for the confusion, Ned.

No problem. I was beginning to think there might be regional
differences in how folks refer to these things.

This is one of my customer's big beam cutters that runs high dies
cutting shapes out of roll stock. This one has two cutting heads that
can rotate to nest the cuts.
http://www.suscom-maine.net/~nsimmon...osaurus2sm.jpg
http://www.suscom-maine.net/~nsimmon...osaurus3sm.jpg

--
Ned Simmons

That's a lot of machine for what we usually think of as a low-tech,
low-intensity kind of operation.

I have seen those things in use, at a company that was located nearby and
where my uncle designed the machinery. They were using a clicker die to cut
inch-thick, double-faced fiberglass and ceramic-wool batts for industrial
insulation, in odd shapes to wrap around elbows and T-joints in process
piping. When Johns-Manville bought the plant they had a new engineer who
thought the old machines and tools were inefficient, so he designed a roller
press and roller dies to do the job. I think it worked for a whole day,
once. g

I've made some steel-rule dies myself, out of steel packing strap and
bandsawed pieces of 3/8" and 3/4" birch plywood. My wife used to volunteer
to design (her) and make (me) the components for crafts projects for a kids'
event. I've made dies to cut pumpkins, maple leaves, and other things out of
thick felt and simulated leather. They really have to be sharp to cut
cleanly.

After I bandsawed the shape in the 3/8" ply I'd bend the strap to fit, bevel
the ends and epoxy them together. Heat would have destroyed what hardness
they had from rolling. Then I epoxied the assembly to the 3/4" ply for
backing.

I eventually learned that jointing the edge (by hand, on a piece of wet/dry
sandpaper taped to my surface plate) was the key to success. I'd blue the
jointed edge and grind a sharp edge onto the strap with a Dremel, using a
magnifying visor and leaving maybe 0.001" or so of the bluing. Then a
slipstone used by hand would finish it off.

There was no money to buy any parts for this, or I would have bought some of
that pre-ground strip.

--
Ed Huntress