we got a stainless steel farm style sink in the kitchen. There's no
counter edge on the front of the sink so any splashes that land on the
sink deck run off the front edge onto the floor. For a pretty
expensive sink, it's not a good design. My idea to fix this is to get
a 3 ft "half round" of ss tubing, maybe with a 1/8" or 3/16" radius
(1/4" to 3/8 diam tube before slitting) and fill the inside of the
half-round with silicone and glue it down to the sink deck just to
make a little "speed bump" to stop the water. I figure if the edge is
straight, then there should be no glue visible. Of course the problem
is how to get or fab this. Any ideas?

I would form a piece of flat stock.
In a piece of IPE (ironwood) use a router with a ball end tool to form
the female die.
Use a round over bit to form the male punch, with a little clearance.
Place SS sheet over die and C clamp forcing SS into the female die.

Machining off half of a SS tube is a real PITA, and you will likely
find that the residual stress in the tube will cause significant bend
in the machined part.
Dave

On Jan 20, 9:54 am, lens wrote:
we got a stainless steel farm style sink in the kitchen. There's no
counter edge on the front of the sink so any splashes that land on the
sink deck run off the front edge onto the floor. For a pretty
expensive sink, it's not a good design. My idea to fix this is to get
a 3 ft "half round" of ss tubing, maybe with a 1/8" or 3/16" radius
(1/4" to 3/8 diam tube before slitting) and fill the inside of the
half-round with silicone and glue it down to the sink deck just to
make a little "speed bump" to stop the water. I figure if the edge is
straight, then there should be no glue visible. Of course the problem
is how to get or fab this. Any ideas?

Thanks, that's a good suggestion. I suppose I could also use a solid
half round and attach it with some type of adhesive. But at 1/4"
diameter there would not be much glue surface. But since cutting
anything lengthwise for 3 or 4 feet will be a real problem, I think I
need to either buy it in the right profile or form flat stock as
suggested.


On Jan 20, 10:25*am, Mechanical Magic
wrote:
I would form a piece of flat stock.
In a piece of IPE (ironwood) use a router with a ball end tool to form
the female die.
Use a round over bit to form the male punch, with a little clearance.
Place SS sheet over die and C clamp forcing SS into the female die.

Machining off half of a SS tube is a real PITA, and you will likely
find that the residual stress in the tube will cause significant bend
in the machined part.
Dave

On Jan 20, 9:54 am, lens wrote:

we got a stainless steel farm style sink in the kitchen. There's no
counter edge on the front of the sink so any splashes that land on the
sink deck run off the front edge onto the floor. For a pretty
expensive sink, it's not a good design. My idea to fix this is to get
a 3 ft "half round" of ss tubing, maybe with a 1/8" or 3/16" radius
(1/4" to 3/8 diam tube before slitting) and fill the inside of the
half-round with silicone and glue it down to the sink deck just to
make a little "speed bump" to stop the water. I figure if the edge is
straight, then there should be no glue visible. Of course the problem
is how to get or fab this. Any ideas?

i think you picked a tough one. i think if it were me i'd settle for a
fiberglass rod filed/shaped into a half round. or a strip of that 3M
autobody trim adhesive tape or something like that. seems like getting a
3/8" stainless tube slit in half is a toughie. i mean, it's a simple pretty
solution and all but whew, rough to do.
i looked at thomasnet.com but i think you'd have to buy a truck load of
stuff to order from those corporations.
www.mcmaster.com has stainless half round rods 1267T51, i think reasonably
priced, good luck getting a 6' long 1/2" rod delivered without being totally
****ed up and bent. :-) also, it specifies "annealed", if it were me i'd
call and make sure it's STRAIGHT. seems like annealed rod could already be
snakey.
i think getting (cold rolled) steel in half round would be not-impossible,
but then you'd have to get it plated or something.
there was nickel and silver and copper half rounds on the internet but that
would probably not be practical.
i know even the mcmaster half round isn't to your spec, (1/2" instead of
1/4"), but at least it's only 1/4" tall. and you can round over the ends
for a finished look. glue it w/ silicone or epoxy or sumpthin'.

good luck.

b.w.


"lens" wrote in message
...
we got a stainless steel farm style sink in the kitchen. There's no
counter edge on the front of the sink so any splashes that land on the
sink deck run off the front edge onto the floor. For a pretty
expensive sink, it's not a good design. My idea to fix this is to get
a 3 ft "half round" of ss tubing, maybe with a 1/8" or 3/16" radius
(1/4" to 3/8 diam tube before slitting) and fill the inside of the
half-round with silicone and glue it down to the sink deck just to
make a little "speed bump" to stop the water. I figure if the edge is
straight, then there should be no glue visible. Of course the problem
is how to get or fab this. Any ideas?

On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 09:54:37 -0800 (PST), lens
wrote:

My idea to fix this is to get
a 3 ft "half round" of ss tubing, maybe with a 1/8" or 3/16" radius
(1/4" to 3/8 diam tube before slitting) and fill the inside of the
half-round with silicone and glue it down to the sink deck just to
make a little "speed bump" to stop the water.

Not the exact dimensions you asked for, but it was the second Google
hit for:
"stainless steel" "rub rail"

http://www.tacomarine.com/cat--Stain...olid_back.html

A deeper search may turn up something closer. If not, it would be
easier to modify that stuff than start from scratch.

--
Ned Simmons