Of late when I need a cutter I rough it out of an appropriate HSS blank
with a Makita hand grinder, then finish it on a bench grinder.

The reason for this is because the bench grinder is very slow, and
shaping convex profiles (as you find on the shoulders of a cutoff tool)
erodes the hell out of the corners of my grinding wheels. Since I want
to get things done, and I want to do it without dulling the corners on my
bench grinder, I use the hand grinder.

This works fine, but it's ugly as hell.

Is there a "more right" way to do this? The tools that I have at my
disposal are the afore-mentioned hand- and bench grinder, a truely
ancient Dremel tool (for which I have cutoff wheels, and can afford a few
odds and ends), and some stones for finishing things off nice and sharp.
I vaguely remember trying to cut off a corner of a 1/4" tool blank with
the Dremel cut-off tool and thinking that it's a dandy way to turn cut-
off wheels into powder.

If you just couldn't stand the thought of doing it with the above tools,
what one tool would you make me buy, and how would you tell me to use it?

--
http://www.wescottdesign.com

On Feb 18, 12:45*pm, Tim Wescott wrote:
Of late when I need a cutter I rough it out of an appropriate HSS blank
with a Makita hand grinder, then finish it on a bench grinder.

The reason for this is because the bench grinder is very slow, and
shaping convex profiles (as you find on the shoulders of a cutoff tool)
erodes the hell out of the corners of my grinding wheels. *Since I want
to get things done, and I want to do it without dulling the corners on my
bench grinder, I use the hand grinder.

This works fine, but it's ugly as hell.

Is there a "more right" way to do this? *The tools that I have at my
disposal are the afore-mentioned hand- and bench grinder, a truely
ancient Dremel tool (for which I have cutoff wheels, and can afford a few
odds and ends), and some stones for finishing things off nice and sharp. *
I vaguely remember trying to cut off a corner of a 1/4" tool blank with
the Dremel cut-off tool and thinking that it's a dandy way to turn cut-
off wheels into powder.

If you just couldn't stand the thought of doing it with the above tools,
what one tool would you make me buy, and how would you tell me to use it?

--http://www.wescottdesign.com

Angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel works for gross shaping, like
making a grooving tool out of a 3/8" blank. I use a 1x42" belt
grinder for general tool sharpening, then touch things up with a
diamond hone afterwards. For a real finish, I use the hard Arkansas,
like for midget threading tools. Use a coarse belt on the belt
grinder, 40 grit or so.

Stan

On Feb 18, 2:45*pm, Tim Wescott wrote:
Of late when I need a cutter I rough it out of an appropriate HSS blank
with a Makita hand grinder, then finish it on a bench grinder.

This works fine, but it's ugly as hell.

Is there a "more right" way to do this?
--http://www.wescottdesign.com

Which Makita?

I grind them roughly to shape with an angle grinder, 7" to cut fast
and 4-1/2" for more control. The bits stay in place better at the end
of the vise jaw if the jaws are padded with sheet aluminum the bit can
press into and there is another bit taped in place on the other end to
make the jaws close parallel. Then I can really lean on the bit with
the coarser grinder and form the basic shape quickly. I try to grind
both sides and the end without having to move it because pliers slip
on the extremely hard metal and I don't want it melting through my
shoe.

Some examples:
http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/T...43778674022866

The smaller inside threading bit was cleaned up on the bench grinder,
the larger one still has some angle grinder finish.

The concave rounding bit was finished with a small conical stone in a
die grinder. The other end is for pulley grooves. The two half-rounds
were matched by eye to the holes in a drill gauge.

The One Right Tool would be the 4-1/2" grinder, the 7" one is too
heavy. It's fine for horizontal weld grinding because the wheel
supports its weight but I can't be accurate with it for long on a
vertical surface.

The cheapie $20 angle and die grinders are OK for short jobs like
this. They heat up quickly so I use them with specialized wheels and
burrs for small details, but not to smooth the larger welds.

Jim Wilkins

Tim,
If you heat the bits enough to change the color, you are ruining the temper
of the steel and defeating your purpose before you start. Buy a bench
grinder, quench often and be patient.
Steve

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
Of late when I need a cutter I rough it out of an appropriate HSS blank
with a Makita hand grinder, then finish it on a bench grinder.

The reason for this is because the bench grinder is very slow, and
shaping convex profiles (as you find on the shoulders of a cutoff tool)
erodes the hell out of the corners of my grinding wheels. Since I want
to get things done, and I want to do it without dulling the corners on my
bench grinder, I use the hand grinder.

This works fine, but it's ugly as hell.

Is there a "more right" way to do this? The tools that I have at my
disposal are the afore-mentioned hand- and bench grinder, a truely
ancient Dremel tool (for which I have cutoff wheels, and can afford a few
odds and ends), and some stones for finishing things off nice and sharp.
I vaguely remember trying to cut off a corner of a 1/4" tool blank with
the Dremel cut-off tool and thinking that it's a dandy way to turn cut-
off wheels into powder.

If you just couldn't stand the thought of doing it with the above tools,
what one tool would you make me buy, and how would you tell me to use it?

--
http://www.wescottdesign.com

On Feb 18, 4:28*pm, "Steve Lusardi" wrote:
Tim,
If you heat the bits enough to change the color, you are ruining the temper
of the steel and defeating your purpose before you start. Buy a bench
grinder, quench often and be patient.
Steve

Very true for carbon steel. HSS doesn't anneal that easily and
quenching can cause cracks.

Jim Wilkins

On Feb 18, 7:45 pm, Tim Wescott wrote:
Of late when I need a cutter I rough it out of an appropriate HSS blank
with a Makita hand grinder, then finish it on a bench grinder.

--http://www.wescottdesign.com

A good bench grinder is what I use. There are a lot of underpowered
bench grinders out there, and
I suspect that is what you have. You should not be able to stall a
bench grinder. And with a coarse and fine wheel, you should be able to
grind a tool bit about as fast on it as using a angle grinder. Faster
if you count the time to get the angle grinder and the time to put it
away.

The wheels that come with most grinders are not great. But if you buy
a coarse wheel that is about as coarse as the wheel on the angle
grinder, it will cut quickly.


Dan

On Wed, 18 Feb 2009 14:09:57 -0800, wrote:

On Feb 18, 7:45 pm, Tim Wescott wrote:
Of late when I need a cutter I rough it out of an appropriate HSS blank
with a Makita hand grinder, then finish it on a bench grinder.

--http://www.wescottdesign.com

A good bench grinder is what I use. There are a lot of underpowered
bench grinders out there, and
I suspect that is what you have. You should not be able to stall a
bench grinder. And with a coarse and fine wheel, you should be able to
grind a tool bit about as fast on it as using a angle grinder. Faster
if you count the time to get the angle grinder and the time to put it
away.

The wheels that come with most grinders are not great. But if you buy a
coarse wheel that is about as coarse as the wheel on the angle grinder,
it will cut quickly.


Dan

But I'm still left with rounded-off corners on the wheel, which offends
my aesthetic sensibilities. That's primarily what I'm trying to avoid --
I like maintaining the wheel so its flat all the way across.

(Yes, I'm picky).

--
http://www.wescottdesign.com

I have acquired a gearmotor. I've known of these and seen plenty, but I
have no idea what this one would be good for:

1/2 HP
30 RPM
6" single-groove Vee-pulley.

The only thing comes to mind is a power hacksaw.
What sorts of things would such a motor be used for?

On Wed, 18 Feb 2009 13:45:16 -0600, Tim Wescott
wrote:

Of late when I need a cutter I rough it out of an appropriate HSS blank
with a Makita hand grinder, then finish it on a bench grinder.

The reason for this is because the bench grinder is very slow, and
shaping convex profiles (as you find on the shoulders of a cutoff tool)
erodes the hell out of the corners of my grinding wheels. Since I want
to get things done, and I want to do it without dulling the corners on my
bench grinder, I use the hand grinder.

This works fine, but it's ugly as hell.

Is there a "more right" way to do this? The tools that I have at my
disposal are the afore-mentioned hand- and bench grinder, a truely
ancient Dremel tool (for which I have cutoff wheels, and can afford a few
odds and ends), and some stones for finishing things off nice and sharp.
I vaguely remember trying to cut off a corner of a 1/4" tool blank with
the Dremel cut-off tool and thinking that it's a dandy way to turn cut-
off wheels into powder.

If you just couldn't stand the thought of doing it with the above tools,
what one tool would you make me buy, and how would you tell me to use it?
==============
4 X 36 belt sander with 6 inch disk. Use zarconia [blue] belts
to rough grind and a fine grade disk to finish grind. With a
fine grit on the disk you can get a literal mirror finish.
example of sander
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32
example of zarconia belts [scroll to bottom of page]
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...PARTPG=INLMK32
example of disks
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...PARTPG=INLMK32
Most car parts places that have painting supplies will have even
finer ones down to 2000 grit for a super finish.

The protractor on the fence/table is OK for wood working, but an
improved holder and accurate guide will give you better and more
repeatable results.
for my solution see
http://mcduffee-associates.us/machining/tabanggg.htm
and
http://mcduffee-associates.us/machining/thfnce.htm

Also get one of the machining textbooks that discusses lathe tool
geometry and nomenclature. Moltrecht vol one is good.
[get both volumes when you order.] Frequently on sale from Enco
and Amazon
http://new.industrialpress.com/machi...ition-volume-i
also the reprints from Lindsay books are very good and are priced
very reasonably.
http://lindsaybks.com/
most any of these lathe books will be very helpful.
Just make the tools look like the pictures to start.
http://lindsaybks.com/bks/lathebk/index.html
These angles have been developed over 100 years are more. After
you get this down, you can vary to see what works best with your
machine and way of working. Be sure to keep a notebook and
sketch what you do for easy reference.

A tip -- regular M2 is both easier to grind and cheaper than 5 or
10% cobalt, and will be more than adequate for your initial
projects. Also for the typical hobby/home shop lathe, rake at
the high side of the recommended range, or even above can be
helpful as this reduces the cutting forces. The trade-off is
shorter tool life, but this is not a major consideration for
home/hobby shop use.


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
-------------------------------------------
He that will not apply new remedies,
must expect new evils:
for Time is the greatest innovator: and
if Time, of course, alter things to the worse,
and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better,
what shall be the end?

Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman.
Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).

On Wed, 18 Feb 2009 16:23:54 -0600, RB wrote:

I have acquired a gearmotor. I've known of these and seen plenty, but I
have no idea what this one would be good for:

1/2 HP
30 RPM
6" single-groove Vee-pulley.

The only thing comes to mind is a power hacksaw.
What sorts of things would such a motor be used for?

Rock tumbler?

On Feb 18, 5:09*pm, " wrote:
...And with a coarse and fine wheel, you should be able to
grind a tool bit about as fast on it as using a angle grinder. *Faster
if you count the time to get the angle grinder and the time to put it
away.
Dan

The difference is between holding the hot bit versus the grinder. They
slip in Visegrips. An Armstrong type holder works well for roughing if
you don't mind scratching it with the wheel occasionally, but they
don't give a good sensitive feel for finishing.

My photo shows smooth continuous ground surfaces without the usual
multiple small facets from hand grinding. I do that by letting the bit
float slightly in my fingers so it touches the wheel all over. I press
the end against the motor housing first to align it and try to hold
that angle while grinding. The hollow-ground ends are easy to hone at
only the cutting edge.

Jim Wilkins.

On Wed, 18 Feb 2009 13:45:16 -0600, Tim Wescott wrote:



If you just couldn't stand the thought of doing it with the above tools,
what one tool would you make me buy, and how would you tell me to use it?


I'd make you buy a surface grinder and a sine vise. But you might never talk
to me again...

One can get spoiled by the tools that are available sometimes.

More seriously, look into something like a "Tinker" cutter grinder jig from
our friend Mr Lautard. Dedicate a decent straight cup wheel to tool grinding
and don't quench HSS.


regards
Mark Rand
RTFM

Jim wrote:
On Wed, 18 Feb 2009 16:23:54 -0600, RB wrote:

I have acquired a gearmotor. I've known of these and seen plenty, but I
have no idea what this one would be good for:

1/2 HP
30 RPM
6" single-groove Vee-pulley.

The only thing comes to mind is a power hacksaw.
What sorts of things would such a motor be used for?

Rock tumbler?

That'd gear down my band saw so I could cut steel.
Totally useless to you though, just taking up space
and gathering dust..

So send it to me, already.

--Winston

--

I'm still waiting for another sublime, transcendent flash of adequacy.

On Feb 18, 5:45*pm, F. George McDuffee gmcduf...@mcduffee-
associates.us wrote:
http://lindsaybks.com/
most any of these lathe books will be very helpful.
Just make the tools look like the pictures to start.http://lindsaybks.com/bks/lathebk/index.html
These angles have been developed over 100 years are more. *After
you get this down, you can vary to see what works best with your
machine and way of working. *Be sure to keep a notebook and
sketch what you do for easy reference. *

How to RUN A LATHE 1942 is as good as any. The changes in the later
edition are specific to South Bend lathes.

I vary the shape the book shows for the Side Tool slightly and use it
for most everything. My lathe won't take such a deep cut so I center
the point, shortening the main cutting edge and lengthening the other
downward sloped one, which can make nice smooth shearing cuts if the
bit is raised slightly.

Jim Wilkins

On Feb 18, 6:17*pm, Mark Rand wrote:
More seriously, look into something like a "Tinker" cutter grinder jig from
our friend Mr Lautard. Dedicate a decent straight cup wheel to tool grinding
and don't quench HSS.
Mark Rand

I replaced the disk on a $49.95 one of these;
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93981

with a home-made pulley plus 1-1/4" arbor that takes an Enco face
wheel for a Baldor-clone tool grinder. The tilting table is too
flexible for serious rough grinding but adequate to finish the edges.

Jim Wilkins

A) T&C grinder
B) Belt sander

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
Of late when I need a cutter I rough it out of an appropriate HSS blank
with a Makita hand grinder, then finish it on a bench grinder.

The reason for this is because the bench grinder is very slow, and
shaping convex profiles (as you find on the shoulders of a cutoff tool)
erodes the hell out of the corners of my grinding wheels. Since I want
to get things done, and I want to do it without dulling the corners on my
bench grinder, I use the hand grinder.

This works fine, but it's ugly as hell.

Is there a "more right" way to do this? The tools that I have at my
disposal are the afore-mentioned hand- and bench grinder, a truely
ancient Dremel tool (for which I have cutoff wheels, and can afford a few
odds and ends), and some stones for finishing things off nice and sharp.
I vaguely remember trying to cut off a corner of a 1/4" tool blank with
the Dremel cut-off tool and thinking that it's a dandy way to turn cut-
off wheels into powder.

If you just couldn't stand the thought of doing it with the above tools,
what one tool would you make me buy, and how would you tell me to use it?

--
http://www.wescottdesign.com

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Tim,
If you heat the bits enough to change the color, you are ruining the
temper of the steel and defeating your purpose before you start. Buy a
bench grinder, quench often and be patient.
Steve

Not with high speed steel, Steve. Its tempering temperature is in the
neighborhood of 1050 - 1100 deg. F. When HSS was used in production,
machinists typically would grind it until it was *dull red*, let alone
showing tempering colors.

This is a common misconception about HSS. But if you can run it to dull
(very dull) red while turning with it, you can grind it to the same
temperature. And if you try it, you'll find that you can hog metal that way
with far less wear of the grinding wheel per unit of steel removed from the
tool.

Just don't dip it in water, because HSS can develop cracks if you do. If you
grind it hot, expect some deterioration (loss of temper; tiny microcracks)
about 0.001 - 0.002 in. deep. Grind that off cool, or, better, hand hone it
off when you give the tool its final sharpening.

--
Ed Huntress



"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
Of late when I need a cutter I rough it out of an appropriate HSS blank
with a Makita hand grinder, then finish it on a bench grinder.

The reason for this is because the bench grinder is very slow, and
shaping convex profiles (as you find on the shoulders of a cutoff tool)
erodes the hell out of the corners of my grinding wheels. Since I want
to get things done, and I want to do it without dulling the corners on my
bench grinder, I use the hand grinder.

This works fine, but it's ugly as hell.

Is there a "more right" way to do this? The tools that I have at my
disposal are the afore-mentioned hand- and bench grinder, a truely
ancient Dremel tool (for which I have cutoff wheels, and can afford a few
odds and ends), and some stones for finishing things off nice and sharp.
I vaguely remember trying to cut off a corner of a 1/4" tool blank with
the Dremel cut-off tool and thinking that it's a dandy way to turn cut-
off wheels into powder.

If you just couldn't stand the thought of doing it with the above tools,
what one tool would you make me buy, and how would you tell me to use it?

--
http://www.wescottdesign.com

RB wrote:

I have acquired a gearmotor. I've known of these and seen plenty, but I
have no idea what this one would be good for:

1/2 HP
30 RPM
6" single-groove Vee-pulley.

The only thing comes to mind is a power hacksaw.
What sorts of things would such a motor be used for?


Elevation screws on a band mill.

Wes

On Feb 18, 11:15 pm, Jim Wilkins wrote:

The difference is between holding the hot bit versus the grinder.

Jim Wilkins.

I just hold the bit in my fingers. The only time you really hog the
metal is when you are starting with a new piece that has never been
ground. And a new bit is fairly long. So you hold it in your
fingers, and when it get too hot, you drop it in the water container
right in front of the grinder. Sure you may get some surface cracks,
but you are going to do some finish grinding on the fine wheel. So it
makes no difference. Tool steel does not conduct heat as well as
plain steel, so you can get the end being ground pretty hot without
burning your fingers.

Well at least that is what I do. I ground a lot of bits before I ever
owned an angle grinder, so that is what I got used to. The bench
grinder I first used was a belt driven 8 inch grinder that W.W.
Grainger used to sell. So the wheels were bigger than the common 6
inch grinders, and the wheel rpm was between 3400 and 1750. Which made
the surface feet per minute about right for an 8 inch wheel.

Dan

How about power feed on a cheap mill?

A cordless drill and an angle grinder head worked for mine.

"RB" wrote in message
...
I have acquired a gearmotor. I've known of these and seen plenty, but I
have no idea what this one would be good for:

1/2 HP
30 RPM
6" single-groove Vee-pulley.

The only thing comes to mind is a power hacksaw.
What sorts of things would such a motor be used for?

On 2009-02-19, Holmes, J. wrote:
How about power feed on a cheap mill?

Too slow.

i

RB wrote:
I have acquired a gearmotor. I've known of these and seen plenty, but I
have no idea what this one would be good for:

1/2 HP
30 RPM
6" single-groove Vee-pulley.

The only thing comes to mind is a power hacksaw.
What sorts of things would such a motor be used for?

A roasting spit for slow turning wild boars over coals.
Trough a pulley system.

cheers
T.Alan

"RB" wrote in message
...
I have acquired a gearmotor. I've known of these and seen plenty, but I
have no idea what this one would be good for:

1/2 HP
30 RPM
6" single-groove Vee-pulley.

The only thing comes to mind is a power hacksaw.
What sorts of things would such a motor be used for?

Overhead crane, conveyor, mixer, elevator.

I haven't used an angle grinder to shape HSS cutting tools, but it seems
like an appropriate method. Consider putting the cutting tool in a bench
vise as Jim suggested, or make a bracket/framework to hold the angle grinder
so it can be securely mounted in a vise or attached to something stationary,
like a bench.
Trying to use a 4-1/2" angle grinder wheel on a 3000 RPM bench grinder won't
work very well at all, but getting a larger diameter wheel intended for
bigger angle grinders may produce satisfactory/better results, although
you'll need to make an accurate and safe adapter to mount a larger wheel to
the bench grinder arbor/shaft.
I wouldn't expect excellent results from this, because coarse grinding
disks/wheels for angle grinders shed a lot of abrasive.. that's how they are
able to keep cutting at a fairly consistent rate.

There are some tool sellers that sell 8 piece pre-ground HSS cutting tool
sets for about $40 (or more for 3/8" size). I haven't bought them, because I
assume that they're made from low grade Chinese HSS.
Decide if buying a set of these cutting tools is better than dressing your
grinding wheel. If you're redressing your grinding wheels with a diamond
you'll probably waste a lot of abrasive.. get a good dressing stick instead
(not expensive, maybe $8 or less) .

You might try gouging/hogging away the majority of the HSS with the angle
grinder, then changing over to a bigger rotary tool like a die grinder with
a 1/4" shank capacity/collet to do the finish shaping. Appropriate safety
equipment is definitely required when using guarded or unguarded high speed
power tools.
The trouble with small Dremel-type tools is that they lack real power, and
that nearly all of the 1/8" mounted stones are fine abrasive.
I think the small rotary tools are great for light duty work, but shaping
HSS tools is a demanding task.

As others have suggested, better quality grinding wheels provide better
performance.

I manage to do all of the HSS rough and shaping with a coarse wheel on a
bench grinder without too much trouble because I can grind HSS very
aggressively using some tool holders I made.

http://www.kwagmire.com/tools/broach_tool.html

If you don't grind aggressively, you might just be glazing the wheel, which
makes it dull, and then it's just generating a lot of heat and very little
grinding is taking place. You can actually see the face of the wheel is
shiny if you point a light at it.. you can see the light reflecting from the
wheel surface. The glaze can be broken down quickly with a dressing stick,
after which you'll notice a dramatic difference/improvement in the
effectiveness of the abrasive.

I believe Harold has made all of the required recommendations for selecting
and using grinding wheels effectively for grinding HSS cutting tools. You
can download the PDF he

http://twoloonscoffee.com/download/

I also haven't used belt sanders/grinders for shaping HSS, but many lathe
owners say they're great. Just be aware that they can create crowned facets
(beause the belt can start to rise and be a bit loose where it meets the
workpiece), so don't assume that all surfaces will be flat.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
Of late when I need a cutter I rough it out of an appropriate HSS blank
with a Makita hand grinder, then finish it on a bench grinder.

The reason for this is because the bench grinder is very slow, and
shaping convex profiles (as you find on the shoulders of a cutoff tool)
erodes the hell out of the corners of my grinding wheels. Since I want
to get things done, and I want to do it without dulling the corners on my
bench grinder, I use the hand grinder.

This works fine, but it's ugly as hell.

Is there a "more right" way to do this? The tools that I have at my
disposal are the afore-mentioned hand- and bench grinder, a truely
ancient Dremel tool (for which I have cutoff wheels, and can afford a few
odds and ends), and some stones for finishing things off nice and sharp.
I vaguely remember trying to cut off a corner of a 1/4" tool blank with
the Dremel cut-off tool and thinking that it's a dandy way to turn cut-
off wheels into powder.

If you just couldn't stand the thought of doing it with the above tools,
what one tool would you make me buy, and how would you tell me to use it?

--
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Thanks, George. Very informative on all. I can recommend the protractor table from
www.accu-finish.com

Bob Swinney
"F. George McDuffee" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Feb 2009 13:45:16 -0600, Tim Wescott
wrote:

Of late when I need a cutter I rough it out of an appropriate HSS blank
with a Makita hand grinder, then finish it on a bench grinder.

The reason for this is because the bench grinder is very slow, and
shaping convex profiles (as you find on the shoulders of a cutoff tool)
erodes the hell out of the corners of my grinding wheels. Since I want
to get things done, and I want to do it without dulling the corners on my
bench grinder, I use the hand grinder.

This works fine, but it's ugly as hell.

Is there a "more right" way to do this? The tools that I have at my
disposal are the afore-mentioned hand- and bench grinder, a truely
ancient Dremel tool (for which I have cutoff wheels, and can afford a few
odds and ends), and some stones for finishing things off nice and sharp.
I vaguely remember trying to cut off a corner of a 1/4" tool blank with
the Dremel cut-off tool and thinking that it's a dandy way to turn cut-
off wheels into powder.

If you just couldn't stand the thought of doing it with the above tools,
what one tool would you make me buy, and how would you tell me to use it?
==============
4 X 36 belt sander with 6 inch disk. Use zarconia [blue] belts
to rough grind and a fine grade disk to finish grind. With a
fine grit on the disk you can get a literal mirror finish.
example of sander
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32
example of zarconia belts [scroll to bottom of page]
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...PARTPG=INLMK32
example of disks
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...PARTPG=INLMK32
Most car parts places that have painting supplies will have even
finer ones down to 2000 grit for a super finish.

The protractor on the fence/table is OK for wood working, but an
improved holder and accurate guide will give you better and more
repeatable results.
for my solution see
http://mcduffee-associates.us/machining/tabanggg.htm
and
http://mcduffee-associates.us/machining/thfnce.htm

Also get one of the machining textbooks that discusses lathe tool
geometry and nomenclature. Moltrecht vol one is good.
[get both volumes when you order.] Frequently on sale from Enco
and Amazon
http://new.industrialpress.com/machi...ition-volume-i
also the reprints from Lindsay books are very good and are priced
very reasonably.
http://lindsaybks.com/
most any of these lathe books will be very helpful.
Just make the tools look like the pictures to start.
http://lindsaybks.com/bks/lathebk/index.html
These angles have been developed over 100 years are more. After
you get this down, you can vary to see what works best with your
machine and way of working. Be sure to keep a notebook and
sketch what you do for easy reference.

A tip -- regular M2 is both easier to grind and cheaper than 5 or
10% cobalt, and will be more than adequate for your initial
projects. Also for the typical hobby/home shop lathe, rake at
the high side of the recommended range, or even above can be
helpful as this reduces the cutting forces. The trade-off is
shorter tool life, but this is not a major consideration for
home/hobby shop use.


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
-------------------------------------------
He that will not apply new remedies,
must expect new evils:
for Time is the greatest innovator: and
if Time, of course, alter things to the worse,
and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better,
what shall be the end?

Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman.
Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).

Winston wrote:
Jim wrote:
On Wed, 18 Feb 2009 16:23:54 -0600, RB wrote:

I have acquired a gearmotor. I've known of these and seen plenty,
but I have no idea what this one would be good for:

1/2 HP
30 RPM
6" single-groove Vee-pulley.

The only thing comes to mind is a power hacksaw.
What sorts of things would such a motor be used for?

Rock tumbler?

That'd gear down my band saw so I could cut steel.
Totally useless to you though, just taking up space
and gathering dust..

So send it to me, already.

I'll attach it to an email.
watch your inbox for a large file

Ignoramus27337 wrote:
On 2009-02-19, Holmes, J. wrote:
How about power feed on a cheap mill?

Too slow.

Also too big, and it's non-reversible.
This thing is the size of a 3/4HP motor, plus the gear drive housing.
The case is about 6" diameter

Elliot G wrote:
"RB" wrote in message
...
I have acquired a gearmotor. I've known of these and seen plenty, but I
have no idea what this one would be good for:

1/2 HP
30 RPM
6" single-groove Vee-pulley.

The only thing comes to mind is a power hacksaw.
What sorts of things would such a motor be used for?

Overhead crane, conveyor, mixer, elevator.

Hmmmm. I do need something to lift heavy bulky objects up to 8 feet.
Might be something there, but the motor is not reversible. At least it
doesn't appear so.

Paint mixer might be doable, and I often need one.

On 2009-02-19, RB wrote:
Hmmmm. I do need something to lift heavy bulky objects up to 8 feet.
Might be something there, but the motor is not reversible. At least it
doesn't appear so.

Paint mixer might be doable, and I often need one.

I have a Thern winch that is made for lifting heavy objects.

110v, 1 1/3 HP power, works great.

Price is $300.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Feb 19, 10:18*am, RB wrote:

Hmmmm. *I do need something to lift heavy bulky objects up to 8 feet.

This is the most versatile cheap hoist I've seen.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=631

I bought the 2 ton one, in a store rather than from HF, because it's
the heaviest I can lift overhead and maneuver onto the hanger loop
with one hand. The harder part is getting it off the hanger which
means holding it by its hook to open the safety catch with one finger.
My other hand is on the ladder so the heavy swinging chain doesn't
pull me off balance.

It will pull a stuck vehicle if you have a helper to feed the hauling
chain in horizontally. Otherwise it jams. I store it in a bucket that
I put under it in use to keep the hauling chain out of the dirt.

Lever chain hoists are faster and easier but you need to be where the
lever is. The chain fall lets you stay on the ground farther away from
the load. I haven't tried non-commercial electric hoists since I
rarely lift heavy loads close to an electric outlet.

Jim Wilkins

On 2009-02-19, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Feb 19, 10:18?am, RB wrote:

Hmmmm. ?I do need something to lift heavy bulky objects up to 8 feet.

This is the most versatile cheap hoist I've seen.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=631

I have a very similar one (probably made at the same factory), and it
works beautifully, but it is slow.

Lever chain hoists are faster and easier but you need to be where the
lever is. The chain fall lets you stay on the ground farther away from
the load. I haven't tried non-commercial electric hoists since I
rarely lift heavy loads close to an electric outlet.

Lever chain hoists are best for pulling, that's how I use one.

Now... A question... Is there any advantage to a "cable puller" over a
lever chain hoist, for pulling stuff? 4 ton puller in my instance. Got
one in auction yesterday and cannot decide if I should keep one.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Feb 19, 11:45*am, Ignoramus8591
wrote:

Now... A question... Is there any advantage to a "cable puller" over a
lever chain hoist, for pulling stuff? 4 ton puller in my instance. Got
one in auction yesterday and cannot decide if I should keep one.

Before I found a lever chain hoist at a good price I used the cable
ones to lift firewood logs since my back won't tolerate leaning over
all day.
http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/F...88505171720306

The import cable pullers wear VERY quickly unless you disassemble and
grease them first. Usually the ratchet and lowering mechanisms need
some BFH adjustment too. After this I could get a year or two out of
one before it deteriorated and jammed. The Jet lever hoist has gone 10
years with no problems.

The "4 ton" cable puller I have requires perhaps 200 Lbs on the handle
for 3200 measured Lbs of pull in the two-line configuration with about
half the cable wound on the reel. Leverage decreases rapidly as the
reel fills.

A neighbor's large oak had fallen into a crotch on another tree during
a storm. It was a straight log I wanted to save for lumber, this one:
http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/H...53242652915618
and the only way to get it down intact was to pull the base of the
trunk up a steep hill. I had been cranking away at it for a while, two
or three clicks per pull, and stopped to rest. The ex-Marine,
construction worker neighbor stepped in to show me how it should be
done and couldn't move it even one click, probably because he's leaner
and doesn't have the momentum or bicycling leg muscles.

Finally I worked my tractor into place above it and pulled it free
with the 2500 Lb winch and a snatch block. There is enough slack in
the electrical cable to chain the winch to a tree beside the tractor.

Bottom line, the cable pullers are like $20 angle grinders, OK as long
as you don't need them often or depend on them. When I pull a large
leaning tree to fell it in the opposite direction I need several
pullers because one doesn't pull far enough.

These help a lot by taking up the slack:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=65951
I have the yellow ones from WalMart instead. Pull on the free end of
the strap to take up as much slack as possible, then crank the ratchet
handle a few times. Otherwise about a quarter of the cable pull is
wasted, and the cable doesn't wind smoothly without a load.

Jim Wilkins

Jim, you have a fun life and great photographic skills. It appears,
based on your experience, that I do not really need that puller for
anything. I will just sell it. The 1.5 ton ratcheting chain hoist that
I have (CM) works great every time at its designed parameters, and
also allows me to release chain in a controlled fashion. I could
always double its force if I wanted, as well.

i

You should have posted this picture too, it is awesome:

http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/H...67615509112306

On Feb 19, 8:55*am, "Wild_Bill" wrote:
I haven't used an angle grinder to shape HSS cutting tools, but it seems
like an appropriate method. Consider putting the cutting tool in a bench
vise as Jim suggested, or make a bracket/framework to hold the angle grinder
so it can be securely mounted in a vise or attached to something stationary,
like a bench.

Mounting the angle grinder cancels the advantage of holding the cool
object instead of the hot one. I think a bench grinder would be
better.

Trying to use a 4-1/2" angle grinder wheel on a 3000 RPM bench grinder won't
work very well at all, but getting a larger diameter wheel intended for
bigger angle grinders may produce satisfactory/better results, although
you'll need to make an accurate and safe adapter to mount a larger wheel to
the bench grinder arbor/shaft.
I wouldn't expect excellent results from this, because coarse grinding
disks/wheels for angle grinders shed a lot of abrasive.. that's how they are
able to keep cutting at a fairly consistent rate.

I've messed around with several versions of a thin wheel to grind
recesses and still like the hand-held angle grinder best. For one
thing it keeps the sparks and shed abrasives on the far side away from
your face. A cut-off wheel in a table saw isn't too bad, but the one I
set up is deliberately low-powered to limit potential violence. You
won't catch me grinding on the chop saw with the switch tied down!!!

You might try gouging/hogging away the majority of the HSS with the angle
grinder, then changing over to a bigger rotary tool like a die grinder with
a 1/4" shank capacity/collet to do the finish shaping.

The coarse wheel on my pedestal grinder is about right for woodworking
tools, but not aggressive enough to rough a lathe bit blank quickly.
It's fine once the bit is close to size, that's why I shape them first
with the angle grinder. I simply don't have the space to have the
correct grinding wheel for everything. The SiC fine wheel is a barely
adequate compromise. I'd rather have a separate Baldor with one SiC
and one diamond wheel. Does anyone in the Nashua area have one they
don't need?

I also haven't used belt sanders/grinders for shaping HSS, but many lathe
owners say they're great. Just be aware that they can create crowned facets
(beause the belt can start to rise and be a bit loose where it meets the
workpiece), so don't assume that all surfaces will be flat.
WB

If the top roller isn't guarded you can hollow-grind bits on it
without that problem since the belt is tight there. Otherwise sanding
with the cutting edge down seems to help, although it may leave a wire
edge.

Although it never happened when I was present, the belt on the sander
at MITRE sometimes had holes ripped in it where the piece being sanded
dug in. I think people were sharpening their lawnmower blades on it
and a corner caught.

Jim Wilkins

Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Feb 19, 10:18 am, RB wrote:
Hmmmm. I do need something to lift heavy bulky objects up to 8 feet.

This is the most versatile cheap hoist I've seen.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=631

I bought the 2 ton one, in a store rather than from HF, because it's
the heaviest I can lift overhead and maneuver onto the hanger loop
with one hand. The harder part is getting it off the hanger which
means holding it by its hook to open the safety catch with one finger.
My other hand is on the ladder so the heavy swinging chain doesn't
pull me off balance.

It will pull a stuck vehicle if you have a helper to feed the hauling
chain in horizontally. Otherwise it jams. I store it in a bucket that
I put under it in use to keep the hauling chain out of the dirt.

Lever chain hoists are faster and easier but you need to be where the
lever is. The chain fall lets you stay on the ground farther away from
the load. I haven't tried non-commercial electric hoists since I
rarely lift heavy loads close to an electric outlet.

Jim Wilkins

I have one of those, and a smaller one.
i use them a lot, but haven't used them for horizontal pulling.

Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Feb 19, 11:45 am, Ignoramus8591
wrote:
Now... A question... Is there any advantage to a "cable puller" over a
lever chain hoist, for pulling stuff? 4 ton puller in my instance. Got
one in auction yesterday and cannot decide if I should keep one.

Before I found a lever chain hoist at a good price I used the cable
ones to lift firewood logs since my back won't tolerate leaning over
all day.
http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/F...88505171720306

The import cable pullers wear VERY quickly unless you disassemble and
grease them first. Usually the ratchet and lowering mechanisms need
some BFH adjustment too. After this I could get a year or two out of
one before it deteriorated and jammed. The Jet lever hoist has gone 10
years with no problems.

The "4 ton" cable puller I have requires perhaps 200 Lbs on the handle
for 3200 measured Lbs of pull in the two-line configuration with about
half the cable wound on the reel. Leverage decreases rapidly as the
reel fills.

A neighbor's large oak had fallen into a crotch on another tree during
a storm. It was a straight log I wanted to save for lumber, this one:
http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/H...53242652915618
and the only way to get it down intact was to pull the base of the
trunk up a steep hill. I had been cranking away at it for a while, two
or three clicks per pull, and stopped to rest. The ex-Marine,
construction worker neighbor stepped in to show me how it should be
done and couldn't move it even one click, probably because he's leaner
and doesn't have the momentum or bicycling leg muscles.

Finally I worked my tractor into place above it and pulled it free
with the 2500 Lb winch and a snatch block. There is enough slack in
the electrical cable to chain the winch to a tree beside the tractor.

Bottom line, the cable pullers are like $20 angle grinders, OK as long
as you don't need them often or depend on them. When I pull a large
leaning tree to fell it in the opposite direction I need several
pullers because one doesn't pull far enough.

These help a lot by taking up the slack:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=65951
I have the yellow ones from WalMart instead. Pull on the free end of
the strap to take up as much slack as possible, then crank the ratchet
handle a few times. Otherwise about a quarter of the cable pull is
wasted, and the cable doesn't wind smoothly without a load.

Jim Wilkins

I used a big cable comealong from HD to pull a 12x16 wooden building up
a hill and a 90deg turn a few years ago. Worked like a charm one I
worked out the right trees to hook it to for each segment.

Ignoramus8591 wrote:
You should have posted this picture too, it is awesome:

http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/H...67615509112306

I like the bandsaw and the front-end loader

RB wrote:
Elliot G wrote:
"RB" wrote in message
...
I have acquired a gearmotor. I've known of these and seen plenty,
but I have no idea what this one would be good for:

1/2 HP
30 RPM
6" single-groove Vee-pulley.

The only thing comes to mind is a power hacksaw.
What sorts of things would such a motor be used for?

Overhead crane, conveyor, mixer, elevator.

Hmmmm. I do need something to lift heavy bulky objects up to 8 feet.
Might be something there, but the motor is not reversible. At least it
doesn't appear so.

Paint mixer might be doable, and I often need one.

It'd make a really bitchin' drive for a sand muller ... If you're into
greensand casting of molten metals .
--
Snag
34 2 lb.(+ or-) ingots of Al waiting under the mill ...
and nowhere to work until it warms up .

Well, I'm a big supporter/believer in whatever method has been working for
someone, is a good method for them to use.

I don't hold HSS blanks in my fingers anymore, since I made the holders
mentioned in my earlier reply. Heat isn't an issue, so that permits me to
essentially grind the hell outta blanks without turning my fingertips to
leather.

I agree Jim, the chop saw usage would be foolish.

Using actual cutoff disks for HSS is a bit more difficult than using them
with mild steel and sheetmetal. In contact with HSS, the operation slows
down greatly as the actual process changes from cutting to grinding.

I've got some 6" 1/4" wide aluminum oxide wheels that I'll use when I get
another bench grinder, but like you suggested, for lots of general shop
grinding variations it takes several grinders with different abrasives
"mounted and ready to go" when needed, which also requires more shop space
(hopefully isolated from the shop machines).

I'm convinced that a specially-built grinding setup/fixture just for lathe
cutting tools would be a worthwhile project, kinda like a compat version of
a T & C grinder just for lathe cutting tools.
That was the direction I was headed in when I made the holders for grinding
blanks, but the idea was set aside as I got interested in other projects.

The grinding/sharpening machines that use a right-angle worm gear reducer to
provide a fast dry wheel, and a slow wet wheel could be very versatile,
maybe moreso for a woodworker though.

I do OK with grinding HSS cutting tools, but better vision would make it
much easier (even though I use good lighting and a big magnifying lens at
the grinder).

I've seen other examples of belt sander abuse by plant personnel that
shouldn't be alllowed anywhere near such a machine.
It seems that many folks find belt sanders less intimidating than a big
grinder, and they try to do all sorts of foolish stuff with them, many times
it's stuff that should be done with a file anyway.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Feb 19, 8:55 am, "Wild_Bill" wrote:
I haven't used an angle grinder to shape HSS cutting tools, but it seems
like an appropriate method. Consider putting the cutting tool in a bench
vise as Jim suggested, or make a bracket/framework to hold the angle
grinder
so it can be securely mounted in a vise or attached to something
stationary,
like a bench.

Mounting the angle grinder cancels the advantage of holding the cool
object instead of the hot one. I think a bench grinder would be
better.

Trying to use a 4-1/2" angle grinder wheel on a 3000 RPM bench grinder
won't
work very well at all, but getting a larger diameter wheel intended for
bigger angle grinders may produce satisfactory/better results, although
you'll need to make an accurate and safe adapter to mount a larger wheel
to
the bench grinder arbor/shaft.
I wouldn't expect excellent results from this, because coarse grinding
disks/wheels for angle grinders shed a lot of abrasive.. that's how they
are
able to keep cutting at a fairly consistent rate.

I've messed around with several versions of a thin wheel to grind
recesses and still like the hand-held angle grinder best. For one
thing it keeps the sparks and shed abrasives on the far side away from
your face. A cut-off wheel in a table saw isn't too bad, but the one I
set up is deliberately low-powered to limit potential violence. You
won't catch me grinding on the chop saw with the switch tied down!!!

You might try gouging/hogging away the majority of the HSS with the angle
grinder, then changing over to a bigger rotary tool like a die grinder
with
a 1/4" shank capacity/collet to do the finish shaping.

The coarse wheel on my pedestal grinder is about right for woodworking
tools, but not aggressive enough to rough a lathe bit blank quickly.
It's fine once the bit is close to size, that's why I shape them first
with the angle grinder. I simply don't have the space to have the
correct grinding wheel for everything. The SiC fine wheel is a barely
adequate compromise. I'd rather have a separate Baldor with one SiC
and one diamond wheel. Does anyone in the Nashua area have one they
don't need?

I also haven't used belt sanders/grinders for shaping HSS, but many lathe
owners say they're great. Just be aware that they can create crowned
facets
(beause the belt can start to rise and be a bit loose where it meets the
workpiece), so don't assume that all surfaces will be flat.
WB

If the top roller isn't guarded you can hollow-grind bits on it
without that problem since the belt is tight there. Otherwise sanding
with the cutting edge down seems to help, although it may leave a wire
edge.

Although it never happened when I was present, the belt on the sander
at MITRE sometimes had holes ripped in it where the piece being sanded
dug in. I think people were sharpening their lawnmower blades on it
and a corner caught.

Jim Wilkins