Ok... I have had a couple chop saws over the years. My first one was an HF
one. It worked great for years even though I had bought it thinking I was
only going to use it for one job. It still works, but the brushes are about
toast. If I could find which tool box I tossed the spare brushes in it
would be a great spare. In the mean time I purchased a Ridgid one. Mostly
because I had such great luck with their table saw. Awesome power and
consistent settings. (what does a table saw have to do with metal working?
I use it to cut and shape aluminum) Anyway, when I went shopping for a
(wood cutting) band saw I bought Ridgid. It worked great and I used it for
all the detail cuts when I did the hardwood floors in our house, and for
tons of projects since.

Oops. Starting to sound like a Ridgid commercial. Didn't mean to. Anyway,
I have found I get pretty decent cuts in rolled steel tube, square, angle,
and even with my Ridgid chop saw using fiber reinforced 14" cut off discs.
They last long enough that I can actually finish a project or two without
replacing them. However as all people do I have begun to wonder if a band
saw might do a better job for some things. I don't think I would use my
vertical band saw for this, but rather invest in one designed to work in
place of a chop saw. I have heard lots of folks say it's the way to go for
cutting steel, but my own personal experience tends to make me wonder. I've
only watched folks cut steel with a band saw a couple times, and its been a
long time ago, but on bigger pieces it seemed to me that it tended to walk
off to one side and make an angled cut instead of cutting straight through.
What am I missing? Is it worth it? The base models from the import stores
seems to cost the same as a good quality name brand chop saw and go up from
there.

I want straight cuts, and I would like to not have to spend as much time
doing clean up on the cuts. I'm also considering a tounrey blade in a miter
saw for some things, but I am concerned about the listed RPM ranges.

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
Ok... I have had a couple chop saws over the years. My first one was an
HF
one. It worked great for years even though I had bought it thinking I was
only going to use it for one job. It still works, but the brushes are
about
toast. If I could find which tool box I tossed the spare brushes in it
would be a great spare. In the mean time I purchased a Ridgid one.
Mostly
because I had such great luck with their table saw. Awesome power and
consistent settings. (what does a table saw have to do with metal working?
I use it to cut and shape aluminum) Anyway, when I went shopping for a
(wood cutting) band saw I bought Ridgid. It worked great and I used it
for
all the detail cuts when I did the hardwood floors in our house, and for
tons of projects since.

Oops. Starting to sound like a Ridgid commercial. Didn't mean to.
Anyway,
I have found I get pretty decent cuts in rolled steel tube, square, angle,
and even with my Ridgid chop saw using fiber reinforced 14" cut off discs.
They last long enough that I can actually finish a project or two without
replacing them. However as all people do I have begun to wonder if a band
saw might do a better job for some things. I don't think I would use my
vertical band saw for this, but rather invest in one designed to work in
place of a chop saw. I have heard lots of folks say it's the way to go
for
cutting steel, but my own personal experience tends to make me wonder.
I've
only watched folks cut steel with a band saw a couple times, and its been
a
long time ago, but on bigger pieces it seemed to me that it tended to walk
off to one side and make an angled cut instead of cutting straight
through.
What am I missing? Is it worth it? The base models from the import
stores
seems to cost the same as a good quality name brand chop saw and go up
from
there.

I want straight cuts, and I would like to not have to spend as much time
doing clean up on the cuts. I'm also considering a tounrey blade in a
miter
saw for some things, but I am concerned about the listed RPM ranges.

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com

P.S. I almost never use my torch anymore for cutting anything. Maybe
blowing off bolt heads, but that's about it.

On Feb 11, 12:08*pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in ...



Ok... *I have had a couple chop saws over the years. *My first one was an
HF
one. *It worked great for years even though I had bought it thinking I was
only going to use it for one job. *It still works, but the brushes are
about
toast. *If I could find which tool box I tossed the spare brushes in it
would be a great spare. *In the mean time I purchased a Ridgid one.
Mostly
because I had such great luck with their table saw. *Awesome power and
consistent settings. (what does a table saw have to do with metal working?
I use it to cut and shape aluminum) *Anyway, when I went shopping for a
(wood cutting) band saw I bought Ridgid. *It worked great and I used it
for
all the detail cuts when I did the hardwood floors in our house, and for
tons of projects since.

Oops. *Starting to sound like a Ridgid commercial. *Didn't mean to.
Anyway,
I have found I get pretty decent cuts in rolled steel tube, square, angle,
and even with my Ridgid chop saw using fiber reinforced 14" cut off discs.
They last long enough that I can actually finish a project or two without
replacing them. *However as all people do I have begun to wonder if a band
saw might do a better job for some things. *I don't think I would use my
vertical band saw for this, but rather invest in one designed to work in
place of a chop saw. *I have heard lots of folks say it's the way to go
for
cutting steel, but my own personal experience tends to make me wonder.
I've
only watched folks cut steel with a band saw a couple times, and its been
a
long time ago, but on bigger pieces it seemed to me that it tended to walk
off to one side and make an angled cut instead of cutting straight
through.
What am I missing? *Is it worth it? *The base models from the import
stores
seems to cost the same as a good quality name brand chop saw and go up
from
there.

I want straight cuts, and I would like to not have to spend as much time
doing clean up on the cuts. *I'm also considering a tounrey blade in a
miter
saw for some things, but I am concerned about the listed RPM ranges.

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com

P.S. *I almost never use my torch anymore for cutting anything. *Maybe
blowing off bolt heads, but that's about it.

If you only need to do chop-saw style cuts, maybe a cold saw?

I had no idea they existed until I came here, now I dream of getting
one after I get my lathe and mill put back together.


Dave

wrote in message
...
On Feb 11, 12:08 pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in
...



Ok... I have had a couple chop saws over the years. My first one was an
HF
one. It worked great for years even though I had bought it thinking I
was
only going to use it for one job. It still works, but the brushes are
about
toast. If I could find which tool box I tossed the spare brushes in it
would be a great spare. In the mean time I purchased a Ridgid one.
Mostly
because I had such great luck with their table saw. Awesome power and
consistent settings. (what does a table saw have to do with metal
working?
I use it to cut and shape aluminum) Anyway, when I went shopping for a
(wood cutting) band saw I bought Ridgid. It worked great and I used it
for
all the detail cuts when I did the hardwood floors in our house, and for
tons of projects since.

Oops. Starting to sound like a Ridgid commercial. Didn't mean to.
Anyway,
I have found I get pretty decent cuts in rolled steel tube, square,
angle,
and even with my Ridgid chop saw using fiber reinforced 14" cut off
discs.
They last long enough that I can actually finish a project or two
without
replacing them. However as all people do I have begun to wonder if a
band
saw might do a better job for some things. I don't think I would use my
vertical band saw for this, but rather invest in one designed to work in
place of a chop saw. I have heard lots of folks say it's the way to go
for
cutting steel, but my own personal experience tends to make me wonder.
I've
only watched folks cut steel with a band saw a couple times, and its
been
a
long time ago, but on bigger pieces it seemed to me that it tended to
walk
off to one side and make an angled cut instead of cutting straight
through.
What am I missing? Is it worth it? The base models from the import
stores
seems to cost the same as a good quality name brand chop saw and go up
from
there.

I want straight cuts, and I would like to not have to spend as much time
doing clean up on the cuts. I'm also considering a tounrey blade in a
miter
saw for some things, but I am concerned about the listed RPM ranges.

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com

P.S. I almost never use my torch anymore for cutting anything. Maybe
blowing off bolt heads, but that's about it.

If you only need to do chop-saw style cuts, maybe a cold saw?

I had no idea they existed until I came here, now I dream of getting
one after I get my lathe and mill put back together.

Yep. I am considering a Tounrey blade in a 12" mitre saw for some things,
but they seem to spec to spin a lot slower than the average mitre saw or
chop saw.

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassman.com

Bob La Londe wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Feb 11, 12:08 pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in
...



Ok... I have had a couple chop saws over the years. My first one was an
HF
one. It worked great for years even though I had bought it thinking I
was
only going to use it for one job. It still works, but the brushes are
about
toast. If I could find which tool box I tossed the spare brushes in it
would be a great spare. In the mean time I purchased a Ridgid one.
Mostly
because I had such great luck with their table saw. Awesome power and
consistent settings. (what does a table saw have to do with metal
working?
I use it to cut and shape aluminum) Anyway, when I went shopping for a
(wood cutting) band saw I bought Ridgid. It worked great and I used it
for
all the detail cuts when I did the hardwood floors in our house, and for
tons of projects since.

Oops. Starting to sound like a Ridgid commercial. Didn't mean to.
Anyway,
I have found I get pretty decent cuts in rolled steel tube, square,
angle,
and even with my Ridgid chop saw using fiber reinforced 14" cut off
discs.
They last long enough that I can actually finish a project or two
without
replacing them. However as all people do I have begun to wonder if a
band
saw might do a better job for some things. I don't think I would use my
vertical band saw for this, but rather invest in one designed to work in
place of a chop saw. I have heard lots of folks say it's the way to go
for
cutting steel, but my own personal experience tends to make me wonder.
I've
only watched folks cut steel with a band saw a couple times, and its
been
a
long time ago, but on bigger pieces it seemed to me that it tended to
walk
off to one side and make an angled cut instead of cutting straight
through.
What am I missing? Is it worth it? The base models from the import
stores
seems to cost the same as a good quality name brand chop saw and go up
from
there.

I want straight cuts, and I would like to not have to spend as much time
doing clean up on the cuts. I'm also considering a tounrey blade in a
miter
saw for some things, but I am concerned about the listed RPM ranges.

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com

P.S. I almost never use my torch anymore for cutting anything. Maybe
blowing off bolt heads, but that's about it.

If you only need to do chop-saw style cuts, maybe a cold saw?

I had no idea they existed until I came here, now I dream of getting
one after I get my lathe and mill put back together.

Yep. I am considering a Tounrey blade in a 12" mitre saw for some things,
but they seem to spec to spin a lot slower than the average mitre saw or
chop saw.

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassman.com

Those blades are for use in the dry cut metal saws, not normal high RPM
mitre saws. The dry cut saws are geared down a good deal. They are an
intermediate level metal cutting chop saw, between the cheap abrasive
chop saws and the expensive cold saws.

On Feb 11, 1:26*pm, "Pete C." wrote:
Bob La Londe wrote:

wrote in message
....
On Feb 11, 12:08 pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in
...

Ok... I have had a couple chop saws over the years. My first one was an
HF
one. It worked great for years even though I had bought it thinking I
was
only going to use it for one job. It still works, but the brushes are
about
toast. If I could find which tool box I tossed the spare brushes in it
would be a great spare. In the mean time I purchased a Ridgid one.
Mostly
because I had such great luck with their table saw. Awesome power and
consistent settings. (what does a table saw have to do with metal
working?
I use it to cut and shape aluminum) Anyway, when I went shopping for a
(wood cutting) band saw I bought Ridgid. It worked great and I used it
for
all the detail cuts when I did the hardwood floors in our house, and for
tons of projects since.

Oops. Starting to sound like a Ridgid commercial. Didn't mean to.
Anyway,
I have found I get pretty decent cuts in rolled steel tube, square,
angle,
and even with my Ridgid chop saw using fiber reinforced 14" cut off
discs.
They last long enough that I can actually finish a project or two
without
replacing them. However as all people do I have begun to wonder if a
band
saw might do a better job for some things. I don't think I would use my
vertical band saw for this, but rather invest in one designed to work in
place of a chop saw. I have heard lots of folks say it's the way to go
for
cutting steel, but my own personal experience tends to make me wonder.
I've
only watched folks cut steel with a band saw a couple times, and its
been
a
long time ago, but on bigger pieces it seemed to me that it tended to
walk
off to one side and make an angled cut instead of cutting straight
through.
What am I missing? Is it worth it? The base models from the import
stores
seems to cost the same as a good quality name brand chop saw and go up
from
there.

I want straight cuts, and I would like to not have to spend as much time
doing clean up on the cuts. I'm also considering a tounrey blade in a
miter
saw for some things, but I am concerned about the listed RPM ranges..

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com

P.S. I almost never use my torch anymore for cutting anything. Maybe
blowing off bolt heads, but that's about it.

If you only need to do chop-saw style cuts, maybe a cold saw?

I had no idea they existed until I came here, now I dream of getting
one after I get my lathe and mill put back together.

Yep. *I am considering a Tounrey blade in a 12" mitre saw for some things,
but they seem to spec to spin a lot slower than the average mitre saw or
chop saw.

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassman.com

Those blades are for use in the dry cut metal saws, not normal high RPM
mitre saws. The dry cut saws are geared down a good deal. They are an
intermediate level metal cutting chop saw, between the cheap abrasive
chop saws and the expensive cold saws.

Yeah, the cold saws are on the order of 50 rpm. Like a round, stiff
bandsaw blade with bigger teeth.

Dave

Pete C. wrote:
Bob La Londe wrote:
(...)

Yep. I am considering a Tounrey blade in a 12" mitre saw for some things,
but they seem to spec to spin a lot slower than the average mitre saw or
chop saw.

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassman.com

Those blades are for use in the dry cut metal saws, not normal high RPM
mitre saws. The dry cut saws are geared down a good deal. They are an
intermediate level metal cutting chop saw, between the cheap abrasive
chop saws and the expensive cold saws.


I bought a Makita LC1230 dry saw for U$470 about five years back.
It cuts dead - straight through steel tube, angle or bar in 'chop' or
'miter' mode at 1300 RPM.

It's faster than an abrasive saw and doesn't produce smoke.
Even works on wood and aluminum!

Here's one for a buck less than I paid:
http://www.cpomakita.com/saws/metal_...rooglelc1230-r

The 60T factory blades last a long time but I use the cheapo 40T brand anyway.
I toss them when they chip more than 10% of their teeth.
At U$15 each, they are a bargain, even if you do have to install
the arbor spacer sleeve (included).
eBay 280269012294

Swapping blades is a little awkward, but can still be done inside a
minute or so.

Avoid tooth counts much above 60T on the blades. I found the 80T and
100T blades tended to just skip over the workpiece rather than cut it.

My only regret is that I didn't buy the saw 20 years earlier.

--Winston


--

I'm still waiting for another sublime, transcendent flash of adequacy.

I own a small 8" Brobo cold saw and could not possibly be happier with
it. It is a real cold saw, with coolant, miters etc. Weighs about
100-120 lbs.

i

On 2009-02-11, Ignoramus7440 wrote:
I own a small 8" Brobo cold saw and could not possibly be happier with

Sorry, 10", not 8"

it. It is a real cold saw, with coolant, miters etc. Weighs about
100-120 lbs.

i

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Feb 11, 12:05*pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
Ok... *I have had a couple chop saws over the years. *My first one was an HF
...
What am I missing? *Is it worth it? *The base models from the import stores
seems to cost the same as a good quality name brand chop saw and go up from
there.

I want straight cuts, and I would like to not have to spend as much time
doing clean up on the cuts. *...
Bob La Londewww.YumaBassMan.com

A bandsaw cuts much thicker steel than a chopsaw can, and you can use
it freehand for notching etc. I don't think they are any better for
cuts that a chop saw can make; they greatly expand your capabilities.
They should cut square but may need attitude adjustment, which is
easier to do on the better ones.

Jim Wilkins

Bob La Londe wrote:
Ok... I have had a couple chop saws over the years. My first one was
an HF
one. It worked great for years even though I had bought it thinking I was
only going to use it for one job. It still works, but the brushes are
about
toast. If I could find which tool box I tossed the spare brushes in it
would be a great spare. In the mean time I purchased a Ridgid one. Mostly
because I had such great luck with their table saw. Awesome power and
consistent settings. (what does a table saw have to do with metal working?
I use it to cut and shape aluminum) Anyway, when I went shopping for a
(wood cutting) band saw I bought Ridgid. It worked great and I used it for
all the detail cuts when I did the hardwood floors in our house, and for
tons of projects since.

Oops. Starting to sound like a Ridgid commercial. Didn't mean to.
Anyway,
I have found I get pretty decent cuts in rolled steel tube, square, angle,
and even with my Ridgid chop saw using fiber reinforced 14" cut off discs.
They last long enough that I can actually finish a project or two without
replacing them. However as all people do I have begun to wonder if a band
saw might do a better job for some things. I don't think I would use my
vertical band saw for this, but rather invest in one designed to work in
place of a chop saw. I have heard lots of folks say it's the way to go for
cutting steel, but my own personal experience tends to make me wonder.
I've
only watched folks cut steel with a band saw a couple times, and its been a
long time ago, but on bigger pieces it seemed to me that it tended to walk
off to one side and make an angled cut instead of cutting straight through.
What am I missing? Is it worth it? The base models from the import stores
seems to cost the same as a good quality name brand chop saw and go up from
there.

This has always been my experience with bandsaws. I have never owned a
bandsaw, but I've used several different machines and none of them cut
square. Some people will tell you that you can get a square cut, if you
have a machine which isn't worn and is correctly adjusted, but used
machines rarely fit that description.

I don't like abrasive chop saws because they're noisy and cover
everything with abrasive dirt. For personal preference, I would choose a
power hacksaw or a cold saw. Hacksaws are big and somewhat slower
cutting that cold saws, but they last forever and the blades are cheap.
Cold saws are a bit smaller and faster cutting, but the blades are costly.

Best wishes,

Chris

Bob La Londe wrote:
However as all people do I have begun to wonder if a band
saw might do a better job for some things. I don't think I would use my
vertical band saw for this, but rather invest in one designed to work in
place of a chop saw. I have heard lots of folks say it's the way to go for
cutting steel, but my own personal experience tends to make me wonder.
I've
only watched folks cut steel with a band saw a couple times, and its been a
long time ago, but on bigger pieces it seemed to me that it tended to walk
off to one side and make an angled cut instead of cutting straight through.
What am I missing? Is it worth it? The base models from the import stores
seems to cost the same as a good quality name brand chop saw and go up from
there.

I want straight cuts, and I would like to not have to spend as much time
doing clean up on the cuts. I'm also considering a tounrey blade in a
miter
saw for some things, but I am concerned about the listed RPM ranges.

I started with a chop saw and have completely gone over to band saws.

I have an ancient Rockwell 14" vertical bandsaw that would not cut
straight for anything. The blade gudes were brass blocks that were badly
worn and one holder was cracked. I replaced the block gudes with roller
bearing guides and then set them up snug. It cuts very straight now and
I have no issues with it. A vertical bandsaw will not replace a chopsaw
because of the throat depth limitations, but is still really useful for
metalwork.

I do a lot of tube fabrication work and mitering on a chop saw is a
pain. I built a miter stand for a Portaband saw and it has covered every
need. Bandsaws are quieter so I can work early in the morning without
antagonizing my wife or neigbors. The kerf width on a bandsaw is much
narrower and more repeatable than a chopsaw which makes layout much
faster. The bandsaw does not spit out a huge fan of hot sparks, so I can
use it inside. I can cut aluminum on the bandsaw without a special blade.

The main think I have used the chopsaw for since getting the portaband
is lending to friends who need to cut something up.

Good Luck
BobH

I have a benchtop bandsaw from Lathemaster.com that works great. I can
take off the thickness of the bandsaw blade consistently. Have cut 3"
steel bar but most of my work is with aluminum. Works great mitering
angle iron and pipe, too.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
Ok... I have had a couple chop saws over the years. My first one was an
HF
one. It worked great for years even though I had bought it thinking I was
only going to use it for one job. It still works, but the brushes are
about
toast. If I could find which tool box I tossed the spare brushes in it
would be a great spare. In the mean time I purchased a Ridgid one.
Mostly
because I had such great luck with their table saw. Awesome power and
consistent settings. (what does a table saw have to do with metal working?
I use it to cut and shape aluminum) Anyway, when I went shopping for a
(wood cutting) band saw I bought Ridgid. It worked great and I used it
for
all the detail cuts when I did the hardwood floors in our house, and for
tons of projects since.

Oops. Starting to sound like a Ridgid commercial. Didn't mean to.
Anyway,
I have found I get pretty decent cuts in rolled steel tube, square, angle,
and even with my Ridgid chop saw using fiber reinforced 14" cut off discs.
They last long enough that I can actually finish a project or two without
replacing them. However as all people do I have begun to wonder if a band
saw might do a better job for some things. I don't think I would use my
vertical band saw for this, but rather invest in one designed to work in
place of a chop saw. I have heard lots of folks say it's the way to go
for
cutting steel, but my own personal experience tends to make me wonder.
I've
only watched folks cut steel with a band saw a couple times, and its been
a
long time ago, but on bigger pieces it seemed to me that it tended to walk
off to one side and make an angled cut instead of cutting straight
through.
What am I missing? Is it worth it? The base models from the import
stores
seems to cost the same as a good quality name brand chop saw and go up
from
there.

I want straight cuts, and I would like to not have to spend as much time
doing clean up on the cuts. I'm also considering a tounrey blade in a
miter
saw for some things, but I am concerned about the listed RPM ranges.

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com

I got a band saw after someone stole my new Makita chop saw. I've burned
out three or four of them in my life. If I could find out who stole my chop
saw, I'd send them a Christmas card. I'd never own another chop saw unless
it was a cold saw.

Steve

"BobH" wrote in message
...
Bob La Londe wrote:
However as all people do I have begun to wonder if a band
saw might do a better job for some things. I don't think I would use my
vertical band saw for this, but rather invest in one designed to work in
place of a chop saw. I have heard lots of folks say it's the way to go
for
cutting steel, but my own personal experience tends to make me wonder.
I've
only watched folks cut steel with a band saw a couple times, and its been
a
long time ago, but on bigger pieces it seemed to me that it tended to
walk
off to one side and make an angled cut instead of cutting straight
through.
What am I missing? Is it worth it? The base models from the import
stores
seems to cost the same as a good quality name brand chop saw and go up
from
there.

I want straight cuts, and I would like to not have to spend as much time
doing clean up on the cuts. I'm also considering a tounrey blade in a
miter
saw for some things, but I am concerned about the listed RPM ranges.

I started with a chop saw and have completely gone over to band saws.

I have an ancient Rockwell 14" vertical bandsaw that would not cut
straight for anything. The blade gudes were brass blocks that were badly
worn and one holder was cracked. I replaced the block gudes with roller
bearing guides and then set them up snug. It cuts very straight now and I
have no issues with it. A vertical bandsaw will not replace a chopsaw
because of the throat depth limitations, but is still really useful for
metalwork.

I do a lot of tube fabrication work and mitering on a chop saw is a pain.
I built a miter stand for a Portaband saw and it has covered every need.
Bandsaws are quieter so I can work early in the morning without
antagonizing my wife or neigbors. The kerf width on a bandsaw is much
narrower and more repeatable than a chopsaw which makes layout much
faster. The bandsaw does not spit out a huge fan of hot sparks, so I can
use it inside. I can cut aluminum on the bandsaw without a special blade.

The main think I have used the chopsaw for since getting the portaband is
lending to friends who need to cut something up.

Good Luck
BobH

If you want a bandsaw for metal, the bigger the better. That is, large
throat, big wheeels, and a blade that is long, thick, and WIDE as well.

The shop I worked in until '05 had a 36" throat bandsaw which used a blade
1" wide (would handle bigger), and ran slow enough to keep the blade from
heating significantly. It cut 2" square tool-shanks like ther were pine
wood. We roughed out bits for brazed carbide on the saw quicker than we
could ever on a grinder. Blade-guides were rolers, and always properly set.
Cuts were true and seldom veered, unless somebody stripped a few teeth.
Blades were pricey, but Starret, Lenox, etc were good and durable, and
cost-effective in our usage.

Flash

(Makes the 14" Craftsman in my garage look like a model bandsaw.)

Many people buy cheap blades for their band saws and this, in my opinion
is one of the biggest reasons for not cutting straight. I only buy high
quality blades for mine and they last a LONG time, as long as the kids
don't come over and try to cut hardened steel.
The problem is that the blade will still cut okay, but the rake on
one side of the blade gets dull.
I use my band saw 90% of the time. The chop saw gets used for
hardened materials and occasionally for things that I can't get to the
band saw (4" X 6", H/V model).
As one other poster said, the Portaband is also a wonderful tool.

Pete Stanaitis
-------------------

On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 10:50:27 -0600, spaco
wrote:

Many people buy cheap blades for their band saws and this, in my opinion
is one of the biggest reasons for not cutting straight. I only buy high
quality blades for mine and they last a LONG time, as long as the kids
don't come over and try to cut hardened steel.
The problem is that the blade will still cut okay, but the rake on
one side of the blade gets dull.
I use my band saw 90% of the time. The chop saw gets used for
hardened materials and occasionally for things that I can't get to the
band saw (4" X 6", H/V model).
As one other poster said, the Portaband is also a wonderful tool.

Pete Stanaitis
-------------------


Ive got 2 horizontal bandsaws..an Emerson and a Kalamazoo, both 7x12,
one set up for aluminum, 4T and Fast, the other set up for steel.
Ive also got a 12" Kalamazoo mitering abrasive saw.
And a 16" Walker Turner verticle metalcutting bandsaw
And a bar/rod shear

Big stuff goes in the horizontal

Small stuff for welding goes in the chopsaw, No need to worry about a
HAZ and fast

small flat/rod goes in the shear (think wrought iron work)

The verticle gets all the fancy detail work

There is a tool for every job

Ive got a Spartan 12x12 out in the RoundTuit pile...but havent found a
need for it yet.
"If the personal freedoms guaranteed by the Constitution inhibit the government's ability to govern the people,
we should look to limit those guarantees."

Bill Clinton 1993-08-12

"spaco" wrote in message
.. .
Many people buy cheap blades for their band saws and this, in my opinion
is one of the biggest reasons for not cutting straight. I only buy high
quality blades for mine and they last a LONG time, as long as the kids
don't come over and try to cut hardened steel.
The problem is that the blade will still cut okay, but the rake on one
side of the blade gets dull.
I use my band saw 90% of the time. The chop saw gets used for hardened
materials and occasionally for things that I can't get to the band saw (4"
X 6", H/V model).
As one other poster said, the Portaband is also a wonderful tool.

Pete Stanaitis

I buy Ridgid (sp?), at the Borg, and they are satisfactory. When I start
doing more cutting, I'm sure I'll probably upgrade.

Steve

I would definitely go with a band saw over a chop saw. We have a 13"
Jet horizontal band saw and I haven't yet experienced a (severe) non-
straight cut yet (that wasn't caused by an employee). We have tried
Starrett blades and a Lenox blades. They perform virtually the same,
price was nearly the same (the Lenox blade was a $1 higher), but I
would go with the Lenox blade over the Starrett because of their
warranty. I have had blades break (mainly due to employees fault) and
they will repair them (we are talking about $150+ blades), Once you
get the hang of it, you might want to go from bi-metal to carbide.
It's like the infomercial phrase "you set it and forget it". But
that's another topic.

Some of the vendors we get stuff from if you have questions:

Jet Bandsaw Machine -- www.jettools.com

Lenox Blades -- You have to go through a vendor. In the last four
months we have used two. www.spectrumsupply.com /
www,bandsawbladedirect.com. We used to buy only from
bandsawbladedirect.com, but their prices are getting high. We have
recently begun buying from spectrum since they clearly state their
warranty (that why I like Lenox over Starrett now) and from what I
found out is that they actually are a welding center for lenox (i.e.
other bandsaw shops send orders to them to produce). Plus after one
order you can ask for credit terms.

Starrett Blades -- www.ohvanhorn.com. They are pretty good. The seem
to take their time though.

-Kevin

I would definitely go with a band saw over a chop saw. We have a 13"
Jet horizontal band saw and I haven't yet experienced a (severe) non-
straight cut yet (that wasn't caused by an employee). We have tried
Starrett blades and a Lenox blades. They perform virtually the same,
price was nearly the same (the Lenox blade was a $1 higher), but I
would go with the Lenox blade over the Starrett because of their
warranty. I have had blades break (mainly due to employees fault) and
they will repair them (we are talking about $150+ blades), Once you
get the hang of it, you might want to go from bi-metal to carbide.
It's like the infomercial phrase "you set it and forget it". But
that's another topic.

Some of the vendors we get stuff from if you have questions:

Jet Bandsaw Machine -- www.jettools.com

Lenox Blades -- You have to go through a vendor. In the last four
months we have used two. www.spectrumsupply.com /
www,bandsawbladedirect.com. We used to buy only from
bandsawbladedirect.com, but their prices are getting high. We have
recently begun buying from spectrum since they clearly state their
warranty (that why I like Lenox over Starrett now) and from what I
found out is that they actually are a welding center for lenox (i.e.
other bandsaw shops send orders to them to produce). Plus after one
order you can ask for credit terms.

Starrett Blades -- www.ohvanhorn.com. They are pretty good. The seem
to take their time though.

-Mike

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com

P.S. I almost never use my torch anymore for cutting anything. Maybe
blowing off bolt heads, but that's about it.

I actually used my torch the other day to do actual steel cutting. I
disassembled a boat trailer in order to use some of the steel for another
project. My circular saw was to awkward, and my reciprocating saw was too
slow. Would have been a perfect application for a plasma cutter I bet.