I'm currently TIGing some thin stainless (0.55mm) sheet and this
requires very low currents.

The problem I'm having is that my auto-helmet only goes down to DIN 9
and it seems way too dark.

I don't really want to go back to a fixed filter (and even if I did,
none of the local welding stores have anything lighter than a DIN 9
anyway) so I've tried using a spotlight to illuminate the work --
which means the auto-helmet simple goes dark anyway (damn!)

Is DIN 7 or DIN 8 an uncommon shade or something?

I tried using a pair of sunglasses but they seem to be only about a 5
(I estimate) and don't shade enough and my oxy goggles seem to filter
out the wrong part of the spectrum because it's still very bright -
but also very green :-)

Any ideas folks -- or do I just hunt down a DIN 7 or 8 from somewhere?

And yes -- it's a pig of a job doing a good fitment for a long butt or
lap weld with metal this thin. I'm using a chill-bar behind the seam
but trying to do a fusion weld on a 2mm lap still causes problems now
and then when the two sheets aren't quite touching.

I also have to do a lot more practice on filling holes (how did they
get there? :-)

On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 01:13:51 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I'm currently TIGing some thin stainless (0.55mm) sheet and this
requires very low currents.

The problem I'm having is that my auto-helmet only goes down to DIN 9
and it seems way too dark.

Make sure there is no light behind you, turn out the lights in the
shop if needed. Just a little light coming in the back of the helmet
can really hurt what you see in from of you on low amp jobs.

Thank You,
Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.

"Randy" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 01:13:51 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I'm currently TIGing some thin stainless (0.55mm) sheet and this
requires very low currents.

The problem I'm having is that my auto-helmet only goes down to DIN 9
and it seems way too dark.

Make sure there is no light behind you, turn out the lights in the
shop if needed. Just a little light coming in the back of the helmet
can really hurt what you see in from of you on low amp jobs.

I got same problem and it gets worse every year older i get. Best solution
is make "the Kid" do the welding. I can hardly see more than just the arc
anymore. If i have to weld, my 500 watt portable quartz light right near the
work, no other light in the room, helps me see a bit away from the weld arc.

Gettin' old ain't for pussies.

Karl

wrote:
I'm currently TIGing some thin stainless (0.55mm) sheet and this
requires very low currents.

The problem I'm having is that my auto-helmet only goes down to DIN 9
and it seems way too dark.

If you can get the cup between your eyes and the electrode tip,
it will help immensely. Some people fashion shades that clip
onto the torch and block the light from the electrode.

Jon

Randy wrote:
On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 01:13:51 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:


I'm currently TIGing some thin stainless (0.55mm) sheet and this
requires very low currents.

The problem I'm having is that my auto-helmet only goes down to DIN 9
and it seems way too dark.


Make sure there is no light behind you, turn out the lights in the
shop if needed. Just a little light coming in the back of the helmet
can really hurt what you see in from of you on low amp jobs.
Oh, I fix that by throwing a towel over my head and the top of
the helmet. It helps a lot, and lets me still see what I'm
doing while setting up. Turning the lights out in MY shop is a
dangerous thing to do!

Jon

wrote:
I'm currently TIGing some thin stainless (0.55mm) sheet and this
requires very low currents.

The problem I'm having is that my auto-helmet only goes down to DIN 9
and it seems way too dark.

Mine goes down to something like 5 I think. You could always shop around
for a new autodarkening filter that goes lower.

I don't really want to go back to a fixed filter (and even if I did,
none of the local welding stores have anything lighter than a DIN 9
anyway) so I've tried using a spotlight to illuminate the work --
which means the auto-helmet simple goes dark anyway (damn!)

Maybe you could try your sunglasses in combination with a shade 3 face
shield? I use a shade 3 face shield for oxy.

I think the shade numbers are designed to be additive so if you could find
low value face shields that add up to about what you think you need you
might be able to overlap them and make it work.

Is DIN 7 or DIN 8 an uncommon shade or something?

I've not tried shopping for shields in that range, but most arc work is in
the 9 and above and gas is 5 and below so those numbers probably are hard
to find.

I tried using a pair of sunglasses but they seem to be only about a 5
(I estimate) and don't shade enough and my oxy goggles seem to filter
out the wrong part of the spectrum because it's still very bright -
but also very green :-)

Any ideas folks -- or do I just hunt down a DIN 7 or 8 from somewhere?

And yes -- it's a pig of a job doing a good fitment for a long butt or
lap weld with metal this thin. I'm using a chill-bar behind the seam
but trying to do a fusion weld on a 2mm lap still causes problems now
and then when the two sheets aren't quite touching.

I also have to do a lot more practice on filling holes (how did they
get there? :-)

I've had lots of practice with that!

--
Curt Welch http://CurtWelch.Com/
http://NewsReader.Com/

Bruce,
You have (I think) one of the cheap autodark helmets, made famous by Harbor
Freight etal.
When I was doing my ME in the Uni lab in Christchurch, we had a Speedglass
helmet there. You had to remember to turn it on, but it was noticeably
clearer than my cheapie one I got from HF via a friend. It was also 5x the
price, but if I was welding all day, it would be the go.
Are you using the pulser? makes thin stuff easier,but can upset some cheap
helmets.
Geoff
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Jul 16, 7:12 pm, Geoffm
wrote:
Bruce,
You have (I think) one of the cheap autodark helmets, made famous by Harbor
Freight etal.
When I was doing my ME in the Uni lab in Christchurch, we had a Speedglass
helmet there. You had to remember to turn it on, but it was noticeably
clearer than my cheapie one I got from HF via a friend. It was also 5x the
price, but if I was welding all day, it would be the go.
Are you using the pulser? makes thin stuff easier,but can upset some cheap
helmets.
Geoff
** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com**

Hi Geoff,

Yeah, my helmet is an ultra-budget type :-(

I'm going to play with the pulse a little more -- I'm just working the
pedal right now instead.

On Jul 15, 8:43 am, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:
"Randy" wrote in message

...

On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 01:13:51 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I'm currently TIGing some thin stainless (0.55mm) sheet and this
requires very low currents.

The problem I'm having is that my auto-helmet only goes down to DIN 9
and it seems way too dark.

Make sure there is no light behind you, turn out the lights in the
shop if needed. Just a little light coming in the back of the helmet
can really hurt what you see in from of you on low amp jobs.

I got same problem and it gets worse every year older i get. Best solution
is make "the Kid" do the welding. I can hardly see more than just the arc
anymore. If i have to weld, my 500 watt portable quartz light right near the
work, no other light in the room, helps me see a bit away from the weld arc.

Gettin' old ain't for pussies.

Karl

I have the same problem, it's frustrating cause I can't see exactly
what I'm doing unless the room is very dark.