Looking for recommendations on a good compressor drain. Something that
works, does not need attention, tolerates occasional cold winter day
with garage door open, and does not make too much noise. McMaster's
4919K13 seems to fit the bill?

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

"Ignoramus19021" wrote in message
...
Looking for recommendations on a good compressor drain. Something that
works, does not need attention, tolerates occasional cold winter day
with garage door open, and does not make too much noise. McMaster's
4919K13 seems to fit the bill?

I don't know about the McMaster part but I 've installed several auto
drains from Harbor freight with good results, 2 of them in use for over 2
yrs w/ no problems. The cost was less then $15 as I remember. Simple to
install, they actuate off the unloader, you may want to use your own tubing
and fittings for the install.

YMMV

Andrew

AndrewV wrote:

"Ignoramus19021" wrote in message
...
Looking for recommendations on a good compressor drain. Something that
works, does not need attention, tolerates occasional cold winter day
with garage door open, and does not make too much noise. McMaster's
4919K13 seems to fit the bill?

I don't know about the McMaster part but I 've installed several auto
drains from Harbor freight with good results, 2 of them in use for over 2
yrs w/ no problems. The cost was less then $15 as I remember. Simple to
install, they actuate off the unloader, you may want to use your own tubing
and fittings for the install.

YMMV



Second that on the fittings. The tubing and fittings supplied with the kit
blew
out and leaked on first use. Otherwise it seems to work ok but does leak a
little air all of the time.


Andrew

On 2008-06-25, Ray Spinhirne wrote:


AndrewV wrote:

"Ignoramus19021" wrote in message
...
Looking for recommendations on a good compressor drain. Something that
works, does not need attention, tolerates occasional cold winter day
with garage door open, and does not make too much noise. McMaster's
4919K13 seems to fit the bill?

I don't know about the McMaster part but I 've installed several auto
drains from Harbor freight with good results, 2 of them in use for over 2
yrs w/ no problems. The cost was less then $15 as I remember. Simple to
install, they actuate off the unloader, you may want to use your own tubing
and fittings for the install.

YMMV



Second that on the fittings. The tubing and fittings supplied with the kit
blew
out and leaked on first use. Otherwise it seems to work ok but does leak a
little air all of the time.


Does not sound very encouraging. I want something that does not leak,
as I leak-proofed my tank enough so that if the outlet is closed, it
would run only once a week.

Anyway, these things need to be connected to the unloader valve,
right? My unloader tubing is copper.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Hey Iggy,

If you decide NOT to go the economical route, then maybe you'd like
what I have.

I have a job specific device made by Burkert, consisting of a
blow-down valve with an accessory digital timer. I have mine set to
blow down for ten seconds any time power is applied to the compressor
controls, and again for 10 seconds every 6 hours that power is
applied. That is often enough that I never see any actual moisture
when it discharges.

Cost about 150 bucks.

Zero leakage, by the way.

If you are interested at that kind of money, lemme know and I'll get
the product info for you. I'm sure there is a distributor in your
area.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 12:35:04 -0500, Ignoramus27719
wrote:

On 2008-06-25, Ray Spinhirne wrote:


AndrewV wrote:

"Ignoramus19021" wrote in message
...
Looking for recommendations on a good compressor drain. Something that
works, does not need attention, tolerates occasional cold winter day
with garage door open, and does not make too much noise. McMaster's
4919K13 seems to fit the bill?

I don't know about the McMaster part but I 've installed several auto
drains from Harbor freight with good results, 2 of them in use for over 2
yrs w/ no problems. The cost was less then $15 as I remember. Simple to
install, they actuate off the unloader, you may want to use your own tubing
and fittings for the install.

YMMV



Second that on the fittings. The tubing and fittings supplied with the kit
blew
out and leaked on first use. Otherwise it seems to work ok but does leak a
little air all of the time.


Does not sound very encouraging. I want something that does not leak,
as I leak-proofed my tank enough so that if the outlet is closed, it
would run only once a week.

Anyway, these things need to be connected to the unloader valve,
right? My unloader tubing is copper.

On 2008-06-25, Brian Lawson wrote:
Hey Iggy,

If you decide NOT to go the economical route, then maybe you'd like
what I have.

I have a job specific device made by Burkert, consisting of a
blow-down valve with an accessory digital timer. I have mine set to
blow down for ten seconds any time power is applied to the compressor
controls, and again for 10 seconds every 6 hours that power is
applied. That is often enough that I never see any actual moisture
when it discharges.

Cost about 150 bucks.

Zero leakage, by the way.

If you are interested at that kind of money, lemme know and I'll get
the product info for you. I'm sure there is a distributor in your
area.

I think that it is the most idiot proof way of draining the tank. I
looked at their site a little, would be nice to know what model number
you have.

Other alternatives that I can get one are ones with a float, or else
one that operates off the unloaded valve.

i

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 12:35:04 -0500, Ignoramus27719
wrote:

On 2008-06-25, Ray Spinhirne wrote:


AndrewV wrote:

"Ignoramus19021" wrote in message
...
Looking for recommendations on a good compressor drain. Something that
works, does not need attention, tolerates occasional cold winter day
with garage door open, and does not make too much noise. McMaster's
4919K13 seems to fit the bill?

I don't know about the McMaster part but I 've installed several auto
drains from Harbor freight with good results, 2 of them in use for over 2
yrs w/ no problems. The cost was less then $15 as I remember. Simple to
install, they actuate off the unloader, you may want to use your own tubing
and fittings for the install.

YMMV



Second that on the fittings. The tubing and fittings supplied with the kit
blew
out and leaked on first use. Otherwise it seems to work ok but does leak a
little air all of the time.


Does not sound very encouraging. I want something that does not leak,
as I leak-proofed my tank enough so that if the outlet is closed, it
would run only once a week.

Anyway, these things need to be connected to the unloader valve,
right? My unloader tubing is copper.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Mine does not leak that I can detect.

Andrew
"Ignoramus27719" wrote in message
...
On 2008-06-25, Ray Spinhirne wrote:


AndrewV wrote:

"Ignoramus19021" wrote in message
...
Looking for recommendations on a good compressor drain. Something that
works, does not need attention, tolerates occasional cold winter day
with garage door open, and does not make too much noise. McMaster's
4919K13 seems to fit the bill?

I don't know about the McMaster part but I 've installed several auto
drains from Harbor freight with good results, 2 of them in use for over
2
yrs w/ no problems. The cost was less then $15 as I remember. Simple to
install, they actuate off the unloader, you may want to use your own
tubing
and fittings for the install.

YMMV



Second that on the fittings. The tubing and fittings supplied with the
kit
blew
out and leaked on first use. Otherwise it seems to work ok but does leak
a
little air all of the time.


Does not sound very encouraging. I want something that does not leak,
as I leak-proofed my tank enough so that if the outlet is closed, it
would run only once a week.

Anyway, these things need to be connected to the unloader valve,
right? My unloader tubing is copper.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Iggy,

Go here and build your own, use the design a CDV assembly link. I have one
on a 5HP Quincy 1/2 NTP in and out, 10 sec on every 45 minutes. I would
prefer to have the one that stayed off for up to 4 hrs. but this one came
with the compressor. As Brian said, keeps the tank free of condensate.

http://www.ascovalve.com/CDVConfigurator

Unless you have a air dryer you will still get some condensate down stream
in you distribution piping so be sure to put in some valves to drain your
pipe syetem.


HTH

Von

Ignoramus27719 wrote in
:

On 2008-06-25, Brian Lawson wrote:
Hey Iggy,

If you decide NOT to go the economical route, then maybe you'd like
what I have.

I have a job specific device made by Burkert, consisting of a
blow-down valve with an accessory digital timer. I have mine set to
blow down for ten seconds any time power is applied to the compressor
controls, and again for 10 seconds every 6 hours that power is
applied. That is often enough that I never see any actual moisture
when it discharges.

Cost about 150 bucks.

Zero leakage, by the way.

If you are interested at that kind of money, lemme know and I'll get
the product info for you. I'm sure there is a distributor in your
area.

I think that it is the most idiot proof way of draining the tank. I
looked at their site a little, would be nice to know what model number
you have.

Other alternatives that I can get one are ones with a float, or else
one that operates off the unloaded valve.

i

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 12:35:04 -0500, Ignoramus27719
wrote:

On 2008-06-25, Ray Spinhirne wrote:


AndrewV wrote:

"Ignoramus19021" wrote in
message ...
Looking for recommendations on a good compressor drain.
Something that works, does not need attention, tolerates
occasional cold winter day with garage door open, and does not
make too much noise. McMaster's 4919K13 seems to fit the bill?

I don't know about the McMaster part but I 've installed several
auto
drains from Harbor freight with good results, 2 of them in use for
over 2 yrs w/ no problems. The cost was less then $15 as I
remember. Simple to install, they actuate off the unloader, you
may want to use your own tubing and fittings for the install.

YMMV



Second that on the fittings. The tubing and fittings supplied with
the kit blew
out and leaked on first use. Otherwise it seems to work ok but
does leak a little air all of the time.


Does not sound very encouraging. I want something that does not leak,
as I leak-proofed my tank enough so that if the outlet is closed, it
would run only once a week.

Anyway, these things need to be connected to the unloader valve,
right? My unloader tubing is copper.

On 2008-06-25, Von Pearsall wrote:
Iggy,

Go here and build your own, use the design a CDV assembly link. I have one
on a 5HP Quincy 1/2 NTP in and out, 10 sec on every 45 minutes. I would
prefer to have the one that stayed off for up to 4 hrs. but this one came
with the compressor. As Brian said, keeps the tank free of condensate.

http://www.ascovalve.com/CDVConfigurator

Unless you have a air dryer you will still get some condensate down stream
in you distribution piping so be sure to put in some valves to drain your
pipe syetem.

OK, that's a good start. I can tie this valve to the power supplied to
my motor, that way it will come up when the motor is powered but not
at random moments. I will report what I will end up doing.

My requirements are, not too loud, preferably not to come up without
the motor running, survive occasional freezing weather (garage in
Illinois).

i


HTH

Von

Ignoramus27719 wrote in
:

On 2008-06-25, Brian Lawson wrote:
Hey Iggy,

If you decide NOT to go the economical route, then maybe you'd like
what I have.

I have a job specific device made by Burkert, consisting of a
blow-down valve with an accessory digital timer. I have mine set to
blow down for ten seconds any time power is applied to the compressor
controls, and again for 10 seconds every 6 hours that power is
applied. That is often enough that I never see any actual moisture
when it discharges.

Cost about 150 bucks.

Zero leakage, by the way.

If you are interested at that kind of money, lemme know and I'll get
the product info for you. I'm sure there is a distributor in your
area.

I think that it is the most idiot proof way of draining the tank. I
looked at their site a little, would be nice to know what model number
you have.

Other alternatives that I can get one are ones with a float, or else
one that operates off the unloaded valve.

i

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 12:35:04 -0500, Ignoramus27719
wrote:

On 2008-06-25, Ray Spinhirne wrote:


AndrewV wrote:

"Ignoramus19021" wrote in
message ...
Looking for recommendations on a good compressor drain.
Something that works, does not need attention, tolerates
occasional cold winter day with garage door open, and does not
make too much noise. McMaster's 4919K13 seems to fit the bill?

I don't know about the McMaster part but I 've installed several
auto
drains from Harbor freight with good results, 2 of them in use for
over 2 yrs w/ no problems. The cost was less then $15 as I
remember. Simple to install, they actuate off the unloader, you
may want to use your own tubing and fittings for the install.

YMMV



Second that on the fittings. The tubing and fittings supplied with
the kit blew
out and leaked on first use. Otherwise it seems to work ok but
does leak a little air all of the time.


Does not sound very encouraging. I want something that does not leak,
as I leak-proofed my tank enough so that if the outlet is closed, it
would run only once a week.

Anyway, these things need to be connected to the unloader valve,
right? My unloader tubing is copper.



--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 14:05:36 -0500, Ignoramus27719
wrote:

Hey again Iggy,

OK. The Burkert I have is about 10 years old, and mine is a Type
1078-1. Apparently there have been some minor style changes, and the
"new" one is a Type 1078-2. You can see that at:

http://www.buerkert.com/products_data/datasheets/DS1078-Standard-US-EN.pdf

and look at the PDF there. This mounts to an (as shown) solenoid
valve, like a Type 0330

http://www.buerkert.com/COM/search.php?SearchText=0330&Typensuche2=Search

If you are still interested, and you'd like to lemme know what city
you are in, I'll try to find a dealer/distributor closest to you.

Take care.

Brian Lawson.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

On 2008-06-25, Brian Lawson wrote:
Hey Iggy,

If you decide NOT to go the economical route, then maybe you'd like
what I have.

I have a job specific device made by Burkert, consisting of a
blow-down valve with an accessory digital timer. I have mine set to
blow down for ten seconds any time power is applied to the compressor
controls, and again for 10 seconds every 6 hours that power is
applied. That is often enough that I never see any actual moisture
when it discharges.

Cost about 150 bucks.

Zero leakage, by the way.

If you are interested at that kind of money, lemme know and I'll get
the product info for you. I'm sure there is a distributor in your
area.

I think that it is the most idiot proof way of draining the tank. I
looked at their site a little, would be nice to know what model number
you have.

Other alternatives that I can get one are ones with a float, or else
one that operates off the unloaded valve.

i

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.




XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 12:35:04 -0500, Ignoramus27719
wrote:

On 2008-06-25, Ray Spinhirne wrote:


AndrewV wrote:

"Ignoramus19021" wrote in message
...
Looking for recommendations on a good compressor drain. Something that
works, does not need attention, tolerates occasional cold winter day
with garage door open, and does not make too much noise. McMaster's
4919K13 seems to fit the bill?

I don't know about the McMaster part but I 've installed several auto
drains from Harbor freight with good results, 2 of them in use for over 2
yrs w/ no problems. The cost was less then $15 as I remember. Simple to
install, they actuate off the unloader, you may want to use your own tubing
and fittings for the install.

YMMV



Second that on the fittings. The tubing and fittings supplied with the kit
blew
out and leaked on first use. Otherwise it seems to work ok but does leak a
little air all of the time.


Does not sound very encouraging. I want something that does not leak,
as I leak-proofed my tank enough so that if the outlet is closed, it
would run only once a week.

Anyway, these things need to be connected to the unloader valve,
right? My unloader tubing is copper.

"AndrewV" wrote in message
...

"Ignoramus19021" wrote in message
...
Looking for recommendations on a good compressor drain. Something that
works, does not need attention, tolerates occasional cold winter day
with garage door open, and does not make too much noise. McMaster's
4919K13 seems to fit the bill?

I don't know about the McMaster part but I 've installed several auto
drains from Harbor freight with good results, 2 of them in use for over 2
yrs w/ no problems. The cost was less then $15 as I remember. Simple to
install, they actuate off the unloader, you may want to use your own
tubing and fittings for the install.

YMMV

Andrew


the only good thing I can say about that harbor freight autodrain is that I
was able to get a full refund when I returned it. I installed it, it did
not seal, the air pressure (160 PSI) blew the O-rings right through the
seals, the plastic tubing was a real problem to connect to the compressor, I
had to make a fitting for it - all in all, worthless, but cheap - might be
OK on a homeowner type compressor that shuts off at a much lower pressure -
my problems were due to the design of the device, not to a particular
defective device. suggest you avoid it


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Brian, I will look at that and also, will measure the space under the
bottom end of my compressor. Thanks a lot. I do not mind spending $150
IF that gets me exactly what I want, which is a relatively quiet
package that is reliable and works in hot as well as in freezing
weather. (or at least does not crack from freezing, and could continue
draining later when the water thaws)

i

On 2008-06-26, Brian Lawson wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 14:05:36 -0500, Ignoramus27719
wrote:

Hey again Iggy,

OK. The Burkert I have is about 10 years old, and mine is a Type
1078-1. Apparently there have been some minor style changes, and the
"new" one is a Type 1078-2. You can see that at:

http://www.buerkert.com/products_data/datasheets/DS1078-Standard-US-EN.pdf

and look at the PDF there. This mounts to an (as shown) solenoid
valve, like a Type 0330

http://www.buerkert.com/COM/search.php?SearchText=0330&Typensuche2=Search

If you are still interested, and you'd like to lemme know what city
you are in, I'll try to find a dealer/distributor closest to you.

Take care.

Brian Lawson.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

On 2008-06-25, Brian Lawson wrote:
Hey Iggy,

If you decide NOT to go the economical route, then maybe you'd like
what I have.

I have a job specific device made by Burkert, consisting of a
blow-down valve with an accessory digital timer. I have mine set to
blow down for ten seconds any time power is applied to the compressor
controls, and again for 10 seconds every 6 hours that power is
applied. That is often enough that I never see any actual moisture
when it discharges.

Cost about 150 bucks.

Zero leakage, by the way.

If you are interested at that kind of money, lemme know and I'll get
the product info for you. I'm sure there is a distributor in your
area.

I think that it is the most idiot proof way of draining the tank. I
looked at their site a little, would be nice to know what model number
you have.

Other alternatives that I can get one are ones with a float, or else
one that operates off the unloaded valve.

i

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.




XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 12:35:04 -0500, Ignoramus27719
wrote:

On 2008-06-25, Ray Spinhirne wrote:


AndrewV wrote:

"Ignoramus19021" wrote in message
...
Looking for recommendations on a good compressor drain. Something that
works, does not need attention, tolerates occasional cold winter day
with garage door open, and does not make too much noise. McMaster's
4919K13 seems to fit the bill?

I don't know about the McMaster part but I 've installed several auto
drains from Harbor freight with good results, 2 of them in use for over 2
yrs w/ no problems. The cost was less then $15 as I remember. Simple to
install, they actuate off the unloader, you may want to use your own tubing
and fittings for the install.

YMMV



Second that on the fittings. The tubing and fittings supplied with the kit
blew
out and leaked on first use. Otherwise it seems to work ok but does leak a
little air all of the time.


Does not sound very encouraging. I want something that does not leak,
as I leak-proofed my tank enough so that if the outlet is closed, it
would run only once a week.

Anyway, these things need to be connected to the unloader valve,
right? My unloader tubing is copper.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Hey once again Iggy,

OK. Lemme know if I can help. I can take a pix of how mine is
installed if it would help, but it is very simple. My compressor is a
vertical style tank, and the valve is simply hung on the end of the
pre-existing 1/4" drain pipe that comes out horizontally from the
lowest point on the bottom to the side of the tank by the "feet". This
means that the bottom of the Burkert drain valve body proper is only
about 1/2" lower than the horizontal run of the 1/4" pipe. Lots of
"head-room" so to speak.

Take care.

Brian Lawson.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 23:38:18 -0500, Ignoramus27719
wrote:

Brian, I will look at that and also, will measure the space under the
bottom end of my compressor. Thanks a lot. I do not mind spending $150
IF that gets me exactly what I want, which is a relatively quiet
package that is reliable and works in hot as well as in freezing
weather. (or at least does not crack from freezing, and could continue
draining later when the water thaws)

i
SNIP large

On 2008-06-26, Brian Lawson wrote:
Hey once again Iggy,

OK. Lemme know if I can help. I can take a pix of how mine is
installed if it would help, but it is very simple. My compressor is a
vertical style tank, and the valve is simply hung on the end of the
pre-existing 1/4" drain pipe that comes out horizontally from the
lowest point on the bottom to the side of the tank by the "feet". This
means that the bottom of the Burkert drain valve body proper is only
about 1/2" lower than the horizontal run of the 1/4" pipe. Lots of
"head-room" so to speak.

Thank you. I looked under the tank yesterday (also vertical) and I
think that I have enough clearance for a valve with timer.

I also have a 300 PSI Asco valve, and some timer and delay relays. So
with just a little wiring, I could wire it so that it fires every time
the motor stops. Or, perhaps, every day or so. I want to be done with
it so that it will work forever, not requiring any more changes.

i

Take care.

Brian Lawson.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 23:38:18 -0500, Ignoramus27719
wrote:

Brian, I will look at that and also, will measure the space under the
bottom end of my compressor. Thanks a lot. I do not mind spending $150
IF that gets me exactly what I want, which is a relatively quiet
package that is reliable and works in hot as well as in freezing
weather. (or at least does not crack from freezing, and could continue
draining later when the water thaws)

i
SNIP large

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Jun 25, 9:34 am, "AndrewV"
wrote:
"Ignoramus19021" wrote in message

... Looking for recommendations on a good compressor drain. Something that
works, does not need attention, tolerates occasional cold winter day
with garage door open, and does not make too much noise. McMaster's
4919K13 seems to fit the bill?

I don't know about the McMaster part but I 've installed several auto
drains from Harbor freight with good results, 2 of them in use for over 2
yrs w/ no problems. The cost was less then $15 as I remember. Simple to
install, they actuate off the unloader, you may want to use your own tubing
and fittings for the install.

YMMV

Andrew

I put an HF drain unit on my Quincy Compressor last week. It only
seems to work on intial startup, and not on shutdown when the system
reaches full pressure and the unloader opens. This compressor is set
to shut of at 175psi and come on at 135psi. If I manually shut the
compressor off at less than 135 psi., the HF drain seems to work. I'm
thinking of putting in a stiffer spring in the HF valve to see if it
will then operate at the higher pressures..Either way at least I get
draining occuring on intial startup when the tank pressure is less
than 135psi., so for $8 bucks it's probably worth it. I ditched the
HF fittings/hose from the kit and used Swagelok fittings..

I put an HF drain unit on my Quincy Compressor last week. It only
seems to work on intial startup, and not on shutdown when the system
reaches full pressure and the unloader opens. This compressor is set
to shut of at 175psi and come on at 135psi. If I manually shut the
compressor off at less than 135 psi., the HF drain seems to work. I'm
thinking of putting in a stiffer spring in the HF valve to see if it
will then operate at the higher pressures..Either way at least I get
draining occuring on intial startup when the tank pressure is less
than 135psi., so for $8 bucks it's probably worth it. I ditched the
HF fittings/hose from the kit and used Swagelok fittings..

I wouldn't depend on the HF drain at that pressure - my quincy is set to 160
psi - the HF drain device failed immediately - the pressure blew the o-rings
through the drain - suggest you don't use it


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Jun 25, 1:05 pm, Ignoramus27719 ignoramus27...@NOSPAM.
27719.invalid wrote:
Does not sound very encouraging. I want something that does not leak,
as I leak-proofed my tank enough so that if the outlet is closed, it
would run only once a week.

Bendix makes this valve for use on truck air brake tanks:
http://www.anythingtruck.com/Merchan...de=061-281923X

The MV-2 uses fluctuating tank pressure to expel water. The
chamber of the valve fills with water from the bottom of the tank,
through a diaphragm-type check valve, and when tank pressure falls the
diaphragm shuts off the tank input and the chamber's pressure lifts a
drain valve, letting that pressure drive the water out. It wouldn't
work for larger tanks in humid areas chamber is too small) but for
smaller compressors it's fine, as long as the pressure varies enough
between cut-out and cut-in. Trucks typically run between 105-125 psi.
There's a heated version for cold weather, but it'll use battery
voltage, not so handy in the shop.

Dan