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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Lathe question
I have a Smithy 1220 lathe/mill and was turning a 3/16" threaded coupler
down yesterday and I noticed that there is apparently a taper in it. The end away from the chuck is about .006 wider than the end near the chuck. There is no adjustment on the headstock as far as I can tell. I'm going to call Smithy Tuesday but I was hoping some of you knowledgible folks could come up with a solution. It's really wierd. What I'm doing is turning the couplings down to be pressed/glued into the center of a couple of cocobolo shift knobs I made for my Jeep. I need to have them pretty much straight. thanks. Jim |
#2
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Lathe question
Most likely, you're dealing with part deflection. It bends away from the
cutter, making it larger the further from the chuck, Very finely sharpenned and honed tooling helps a lot with this issue. if you've got it, super high RPM and a light finishing cut help too. Karl |
#3
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Lathe question
Jim Chandler wrote:
I have a Smithy 1220 lathe/mill and was turning a 3/16" threaded coupler down yesterday and I noticed that there is apparently a taper in it. The end away from the chuck is about .006 wider than the end near the chuck. What was the l/d (length to diameter) ratio of the part your were machining? Can you rig a test indicator to your carrage and indicate the side of chuck? Might give you an idea if your headstock is mis aligned with ways. Worn jaws can do it also. Wooped ways also. Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller |
#4
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Lathe question
Karl Townsend wrote:
Most likely, you're dealing with part deflection. It bends away from the cutter, making it larger the further from the chuck, Very finely sharpenned and honed tooling helps a lot with this issue. if you've got it, super high RPM and a light finishing cut help too. Karl Thanks, Karl. I'll give that a try. I hadn't thought about deflection because I thought everything was solid. Jim |
#5
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Lathe question
Wes wrote:
Jim Chandler wrote: I have a Smithy 1220 lathe/mill and was turning a 3/16" threaded coupler down yesterday and I noticed that there is apparently a taper in it. The end away from the chuck is about .006 wider than the end near the chuck. What was the l/d (length to diameter) ratio of the part your were machining? Can you rig a test indicator to your carrage and indicate the side of chuck? Might give you an idea if your headstock is mis aligned with ways. Worn jaws can do it also. Wooped ways also. Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller The diameter of the part started at about 1/2" and the length is about 2". I an turning it with a 3/16 grade 5 bolt run all the way through it and am chucked (three jaw) on the bolt. I suspect Karl was correct and I'm getting deflection that I hadn't considered. The machine is just over a year old so I don't think that there is excessive wear in any of the parts, especially since I've only used it a few times (not as many as I'd like). Thanks for the reply. Every bit of information helps. Jim |
#6
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Lathe question
On Sun, 25 May 2008 02:44:56 +0000, Jim Chandler wrote:
Karl Townsend wrote: Most likely, you're dealing with part deflection. It bends away from the cutter, making it larger the further from the chuck, Very finely sharpenned and honed tooling helps a lot with this issue. if you've got it, super high RPM and a light finishing cut help too. Karl Thanks, Karl. I'll give that a try. I hadn't thought about deflection because I thought everything was solid. Jim Zero deflection, eh. It's amazing just how elusive 'zero' can be when you start looking hard enough. -- Tim Wescott Control systems and communications consulting http://www.wescottdesign.com Need to learn how to apply control theory in your embedded system? "Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" by Tim Wescott Elsevier/Newnes, http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html |
#7
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Lathe question
On May 24, 10:48*pm, Jim Chandler wrote:
... The diameter of the part started at about 1/2" and the length is about 2". *I an turning it with a 3/16 grade 5 bolt run all the way through it and am chucked (three jaw) on the bolt. Jim- A 1/2" solid steel rod held in a collet could deflect that much from a roughing cut. I'd chuck the 3/16" bolt in close, center-drill it, put the part back on it and hold the far end steady with the tailstock. You can use an indicator to check if the center hole runs true and see if it shifts when you run the tailstock center in. A Grade 5 bolt isn't any stiffer than an unmarked one. Jim Wilkins |
#8
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Lathe question
.006" is great compared to my lathe.
A few strokes with a file should take care of that. |
#9
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Lathe question
On May 25, 8:46*am, Dan@ (Dan H) wrote:
*.006" is great compared to my lathe. A few strokes with a file should take care of that. This is not correct. A file is completely inappropriate for this problem. The only reason anyone should use a file on a lathe is to take an edge off (chamfer or radius) at a low RPM while paying a lot of attention as to where the file, and his/her apendages are located. I've never seen an application where a file yields a better result than a correctly formed cutting tool, cutting under appropriate conditions (RPM, feedrate, tool and workpiece overhang, cutting fluid, etc). I'd be very impressed to see anyone file a taper out of a workpiece faster than they can adjust their cutting parameters and actually perform the operation correctly(!) Not to mention using a file on a lathe is really dangerous (see pics from thread several months ago - see if you can find the file among the twisted flesh and blood). As we've now found out, the length to diameter ratio on the OP's setup is the cause of this issue. Karl's suggestion is right on the mark. Regards, Robin |
#10
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Lathe question
Tim Wescott wrote:
On Sun, 25 May 2008 02:44:56 +0000, Jim Chandler wrote: Karl Townsend wrote: Most likely, you're dealing with part deflection. It bends away from the cutter, making it larger the further from the chuck, Very finely sharpenned and honed tooling helps a lot with this issue. if you've got it, super high RPM and a light finishing cut help too. Karl Thanks, Karl. I'll give that a try. I hadn't thought about deflection because I thought everything was solid. Jim Zero deflection, eh. It's amazing just how elusive 'zero' can be when you start looking hard enough. That's what happens when you're not a real machinist and are judging things by feel. It is amazing how weak things really are. The first time I tried turning this thing I had a 3/16" bolt threaded all the way through it with a nut on the end cinched down tight. I chucked it up and started turning. About the third pass, I got a little overly enthusiastic I guess, and took too big of a cut. The bit dug in and the bolt bent nicely right behind the nut. I was amazed. you don't think of those things. At least I don't. Jim |
#11
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Lathe question
Jim Wilkins wrote:
On May 24, 10:48 pm, Jim Chandler wrote: ... The diameter of the part started at about 1/2" and the length is about 2". I an turning it with a 3/16 grade 5 bolt run all the way through it and am chucked (three jaw) on the bolt. Jim- A 1/2" solid steel rod held in a collet could deflect that much from a roughing cut. I'd chuck the 3/16" bolt in close, center-drill it, put the part back on it and hold the far end steady with the tailstock. You can use an indicator to check if the center hole runs true and see if it shifts when you run the tailstock center in. A Grade 5 bolt isn't any stiffer than an unmarked one. Jim Wilkins That's true, now that I think of it. The grade only signifies tension strength. DUH! Using the tail stock is not a bad idea either. Thanks, Jon. Jim |
#12
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Lathe question
On May 25, 1:56*pm, Jim Chandler wrote:
Jim Wilkins wrote: ... Jim Wilkins That's true, now that I think of it. *The grade only signifies tension strength. *DUH! *Using the tail stock is not a bad idea either. *Thanks, Jon. Jim Glad to help, Joe. |
#13
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Lathe question
Jim Chandler wrote:
That's true, now that I think of it. The grade only signifies tension strength. DUH! Using the tail stock is not a bad idea either. Thanks, Jon. Just the other day I had to remind an engineer that heat treating won't make a shaft stiffer. I think he was a bit suprised having a tool box pusher mention Young's modulus. 4:1 is tail stock territory though there are things like a follow rest. I've never used one but I could see them being handy. Wes |
#14
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Lathe question
Jim Wilkins wrote:
On May 25, 1:56 pm, Jim Chandler wrote: Jim Wilkins wrote: ... Jim Wilkins That's true, now that I think of it. The grade only signifies tension strength. DUH! Using the tail stock is not a bad idea either. Thanks, Jon. Jim Glad to help, Joe. DAMN! I guess old age is catching up and I can no longer read well! :-) Jim |
#15
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Lathe question
Wes wrote:
Jim Chandler wrote: That's true, now that I think of it. The grade only signifies tension strength. DUH! Using the tail stock is not a bad idea either. Thanks, Jon. Just the other day I had to remind an engineer that heat treating won't make a shaft stiffer. I think he was a bit suprised having a tool box pusher mention Young's modulus. 4:1 is tail stock territory though there are things like a follow rest. I've never used one but I could see them being handy. Wes Well, I don't know about THAT now. MY shaft always gets stiffer when it is warmed up! :-) Jim |
#16
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Lathe question
"Wes" wrote in message ... Jim Chandler wrote: That's true, now that I think of it. The grade only signifies tension strength. DUH! Using the tail stock is not a bad idea either. Thanks, Jon. Just the other day I had to remind an engineer that heat treating won't make a shaft stiffer. I think he was a bit suprised having a tool box pusher mention Young's modulus. 4:1 is tail stock territory though there are things like a follow rest. I've never used one but I could see them being handy. Wes ya know, Wes - there are two types of engineers (actually this probably applies to any group of folks) - those who think they know more than eveyone else and are out to prove it, and those who end up actually knowing what everyone else knows because they listen and ask questions - I haven't worked production line stuff for decades, but I found that the Techs and even the assembly folks could generally teach me something if I would just shut up and listen to them - and at least in my experience, everyone I asked for help was willing to help - maybe it had to do with the asking and listening parts. ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
#17
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Lathe question
On May 26, 1:19*am, "William Noble" wrote:
ya know, Wes - there are two types of engineers (actually this probably applies to any group of folks) - those who think they know more than eveyone else and are out to prove it, and those who end up actually knowing what everyone else knows because they listen and ask questions - I haven't worked production line stuff for decades, but I found that the Techs and even the assembly folks could generally teach me something if I would just shut up and listen to them - and at least in my experience, everyone I asked for help was willing to help - maybe it had to do with the asking and listening parts. I listen to the people who do the work, but have learned to separate their observations of what happens, which is valuable, from their interpretation of why it happens which is often incorrect if they don't know the science behind it. Jim Wilkins |
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