I'm making a bracket for my racing seat. I'm trying to use the
original mounting holes in the car (a 96 Miata) which are angle away
from each other. My plan is to get a pair of 19" x 2" x 1/4" steel
strip to mount the seat on.

I need to bend the two ends of the metal strip about (20 and 30
degrees). My question is, how can I bend the metal strip with common
garage tools?

I was think to position the metal strip between 2 thick pieces of
metal and use my trailer and jack stand as a vice to hold it near
horizontal. Then use my car jack to bend the metal. I can use a
welding torch to heat the metal if necessary.

Thanks,
Freddie

Freddie,
Bending this plate is very easy with a brake or even a large vice or
hydraulic press. All of which are common garage tools. What you're telling
this audience is that you are dangerous to yourself and others. please
acquire and use the correct tools for the job. Stupidity has a way of
purging the gene pool.
Steve

"Freddie" wrote in message
...
I'm making a bracket for my racing seat. I'm trying to use the
original mounting holes in the car (a 96 Miata) which are angle away
from each other. My plan is to get a pair of 19" x 2" x 1/4" steel
strip to mount the seat on.

I need to bend the two ends of the metal strip about (20 and 30
degrees). My question is, how can I bend the metal strip with common
garage tools?

I was think to position the metal strip between 2 thick pieces of
metal and use my trailer and jack stand as a vice to hold it near
horizontal. Then use my car jack to bend the metal. I can use a
welding torch to heat the metal if necessary.

Thanks,
Freddie

Freddie wrote:

I'm making a bracket for my racing seat. I'm trying to use the
original mounting holes in the car (a 96 Miata) which are angle away
from each other. My plan is to get a pair of 19" x 2" x 1/4" steel
strip to mount the seat on.


You really should invest in a vise. The torch heating idea is fine assuming
low carbon steel.

Wes

If you have a receiver type hitch on a towing vehicle, make a wood block
that is 2" X 1-3/4" in thickness, about 4 inches long, and place the short
bend end of your metal strip into the empty receiver hitch along with the
block on top of the bar inside the hitch, and bend using the longer length
of your flatbar and your foot as the lever. Clamp a couple of 2X4 pieces in
a sandwich fashion on the bar if you need to increase length and leverage
for bending, or to prevent curving of the long part. If done properly, you
can even bend an offset (zigzag) into the bar by bending the most inward
bend first. This will not get you really crisp bends, but it may well serve
your purpose. Be extremely wary of using the torch to help with the bend
around a vehicle, due to the obvious fuel tank located on the vehicle, and
danger of a fire/ explosion.
Now, if the bar needs to be bent sideways, ie. the "hardway" then
thats another story. If you need this type of bend, you will need to go to
a shop with the proper facilities, or do a cut and weld.
There are always nay-sayers who have good intentions, and that's very
admirable, but if I had listened to them, I would not have the skills I have
today. At 14 years old, I built a go-kart out of 1/2" galvanized pipe and
small wheels salvaged from my uncle's farm junkpile. The project was built
using sand and wood plugs to pack the pipe to bend around a forked pecan
tree. The entire unit was bolted together using rat -tail filed coped joints
with wood plugs driven in at the joints, along with small lag screws to bolt
it together untill I cut enough grass for hire to be able to afford to have
it welded. The engine was a vertical shaft, so I removed the governor and
converted the engine to horizontal by making an adapter plate to rotate the
carb 90 degrees. An oil dipper was made for the connecting rod. Angle iron
pieces provided the engine mounts. The shaft was 7/8", so I made wood blocks
the correct length to place on either side of the crankshaft, and with the
engine running, filed the crankshaft to 3/4" so a clutch I had scrounged
would fit. Never discount wood's uses in metalworking.
With all this rambling, I guess I'm saying that a man can do a lot of
things if he has the determination , resourcefulness, and a logical and safe
thought process. Don't give up, but for sure, do it as safely as possible
P.S. Using a trailer tongue jack to clamp SOME things down would work if
you first place the tongue inside a garage doorway and use a T shaped
stiffknee made of 2X4 against the top of the doorway or open roof trusses to
allow you to apply downward pressure in a MODERATE amount. Chock wheels for
this.

RJ




"Freddie" wrote in message
...
I'm making a bracket for my racing seat. I'm trying to use the
original mounting holes in the car (a 96 Miata) which are angle away
from each other. My plan is to get a pair of 19" x 2" x 1/4" steel
strip to mount the seat on.

I need to bend the two ends of the metal strip about (20 and 30
degrees). My question is, how can I bend the metal strip with common
garage tools?

I was think to position the metal strip between 2 thick pieces of
metal and use my trailer and jack stand as a vice to hold it near
horizontal. Then use my car jack to bend the metal. I can use a
welding torch to heat the metal if necessary.

Thanks,
Freddie

On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 06:49:40 -0500, "Backlash"
wrote:

If you have a receiver type hitch on a towing vehicle, make a wood block
that is 2" X 1-3/4" in thickness, about 4 inches long, and place the short
bend end of your metal strip into the empty receiver hitch along with the
block on top of the bar inside the hitch, and bend using the longer length
of your flatbar and your foot as the lever. Clamp a couple of 2X4 pieces in
a sandwich fashion on the bar if you need to increase length and leverage
for bending, or to prevent curving of the long part. If done properly, you
can even bend an offset (zigzag) into the bar by bending the most inward
bend first. This will not get you really crisp bends, but it may well serve
your purpose. Be extremely wary of using the torch to help with the bend
around a vehicle, due to the obvious fuel tank located on the vehicle, and
danger of a fire/ explosion.
Now, if the bar needs to be bent sideways, ie. the "hardway" then
thats another story. If you need this type of bend, you will need to go to
a shop with the proper facilities, or do a cut and weld.
There are always nay-sayers who have good intentions, and that's very
admirable, but if I had listened to them, I would not have the skills I have
today. At 14 years old, I built a go-kart out of 1/2" galvanized pipe and
small wheels salvaged from my uncle's farm junkpile. The project was built
using sand and wood plugs to pack the pipe to bend around a forked pecan
tree. The entire unit was bolted together using rat -tail filed coped joints
with wood plugs driven in at the joints, along with small lag screws to bolt
it together untill I cut enough grass for hire to be able to afford to have
it welded. The engine was a vertical shaft, so I removed the governor and
converted the engine to horizontal by making an adapter plate to rotate the
carb 90 degrees. An oil dipper was made for the connecting rod. Angle iron
pieces provided the engine mounts. The shaft was 7/8", so I made wood blocks
the correct length to place on either side of the crankshaft, and with the
engine running, filed the crankshaft to 3/4" so a clutch I had scrounged
would fit. Never discount wood's uses in metalworking.
With all this rambling, I guess I'm saying that a man can do a lot of
things if he has the determination , resourcefulness, and a logical and safe
thought process. Don't give up, but for sure, do it as safely as possible
P.S. Using a trailer tongue jack to clamp SOME things down would work if
you first place the tongue inside a garage doorway and use a T shaped
stiffknee made of 2X4 against the top of the doorway or open roof trusses to
allow you to apply downward pressure in a MODERATE amount. Chock wheels for
this.

RJ

For crying out loud, vices are CHEAP and usefull for so many things -
why would you try to use anything else? Clamp the bar in the vise,
with the short end sticking out and beat the short end with a big
hammet to the right angle. It AINT ROCKET SCIENCE. If you cannot
handle this, you should NOT be playing around with seat mounting
brackets.



"Freddie" wrote in message
...
I'm making a bracket for my racing seat. I'm trying to use the
original mounting holes in the car (a 96 Miata) which are angle away
from each other. My plan is to get a pair of 19" x 2" x 1/4" steel
strip to mount the seat on.

I need to bend the two ends of the metal strip about (20 and 30
degrees). My question is, how can I bend the metal strip with common
garage tools?

I was think to position the metal strip between 2 thick pieces of
metal and use my trailer and jack stand as a vice to hold it near
horizontal. Then use my car jack to bend the metal. I can use a
welding torch to heat the metal if necessary.

Thanks,
Freddie



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Freddie,
Bending this plate is very easy with a brake or even a large vice or
hydraulic press. All of which are common garage tools. What you're telling
this audience is that you are dangerous to yourself and others. please
acquire and use the correct tools for the job. Stupidity has a way of
purging the gene pool.
Steve

Hey Steve,

The above is a little harsh.
We (at least I) all started with mostly nothing in the way of tools (55±
years ago). I remember as a 12 year old, taking apart an abandoned
automobile differential with hammer, chisel and repeated dropping from a
third floor balcony onto a concrete patio. I remember at the age of 13
saving up enough money for an S&K 1/2" socket set. We've all bent metal by
wedging one end between tree branches etc.
Give the OP a break and help him in his quest.

Ivan Vegvary

On Fri, 4 Apr 2008 23:21:17 -0700 (PDT), Freddie
wrote:

I'm making a bracket for my racing seat. I'm trying to use the
original mounting holes in the car (a 96 Miata) which are angle away
from each other. My plan is to get a pair of 19" x 2" x 1/4" steel
strip to mount the seat on.

I need to bend the two ends of the metal strip about (20 and 30
degrees). My question is, how can I bend the metal strip with common
garage tools?

I was think to position the metal strip between 2 thick pieces of
metal and use my trailer and jack stand as a vice to hold it near
horizontal. Then use my car jack to bend the metal. I can use a
welding torch to heat the metal if necessary.

Having built a base, or two, for racing seats, I'd say that 1/4
material is overkill. 1/8 material is sufficient and is what all of
the commercial set bases that I've seen are made from. Pretty easy to
bent 1/8 material by clamping it in a vise and whacking it with a hand
sledge. No heat is needed, nor is a lot of precision required.

On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 11:54:03 -0500, "Backlash"
wrote:


clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 06:49:40 -0500, "Backlash"
wrote:

If you have a receiver type hitch on a towing vehicle, make a wood
block
that is 2" X 1-3/4" in thickness, about 4 inches long, and place the
short
bend end of your metal strip into the empty receiver hitch along with the
block on top of the bar inside the hitch, and bend using the longer length
of your flatbar and your foot as the lever. Clamp a couple of 2X4 pieces
in
a sandwich fashion on the bar if you need to increase length and leverage
for bending, or to prevent curving of the long part. If done properly, you
can even bend an offset (zigzag) into the bar by bending the most inward
bend first. This will not get you really crisp bends, but it may well
serve
your purpose. Be extremely wary of using the torch to help with the bend
around a vehicle, due to the obvious fuel tank located on the vehicle, and
danger of a fire/ explosion.
Now, if the bar needs to be bent sideways, ie. the "hardway" then
thats another story. If you need this type of bend, you will need to go
to
a shop with the proper facilities, or do a cut and weld.
There are always nay-sayers who have good intentions, and that's very
admirable, but if I had listened to them, I would not have the skills I
have
today. At 14 years old, I built a go-kart out of 1/2" galvanized pipe and
small wheels salvaged from my uncle's farm junkpile. The project was built
using sand and wood plugs to pack the pipe to bend around a forked pecan
tree. The entire unit was bolted together using rat -tail filed coped
joints
with wood plugs driven in at the joints, along with small lag screws to
bolt
it together untill I cut enough grass for hire to be able to afford to
have
it welded. The engine was a vertical shaft, so I removed the governor and
converted the engine to horizontal by making an adapter plate to rotate
the
carb 90 degrees. An oil dipper was made for the connecting rod. Angle iron
pieces provided the engine mounts. The shaft was 7/8", so I made wood
blocks
the correct length to place on either side of the crankshaft, and with the
engine running, filed the crankshaft to 3/4" so a clutch I had scrounged
would fit. Never discount wood's uses in metalworking.
With all this rambling, I guess I'm saying that a man can do a lot of
things if he has the determination , resourcefulness, and a logical and
safe
thought process. Don't give up, but for sure, do it as safely as possible
P.S. Using a trailer tongue jack to clamp SOME things down would work
if
you first place the tongue inside a garage doorway and use a T shaped
stiffknee made of 2X4 against the top of the doorway or open roof trusses
to
allow you to apply downward pressure in a MODERATE amount. Chock wheels
for
this.

RJ

For crying out loud, vices are CHEAP and usefull for so many things -
why would you try to use anything else? Clamp the bar in the vise,
with the short end sticking out and beat the short end with a big
hammet to the right angle. It AINT ROCKET SCIENCE. If you cannot
handle this, you should NOT be playing around with seat mounting
brackets.



So, farmers and such that break down in fields in remote areas should wait
until they can go home and build a fabrication shop before attempting
repairs? Maybe Freddie is conserving money for his project. Maybe he does
not have a solid workbench to PUT a vise on. I find that various areas of my
forklift carriage and mast assembly make excellent bending fixtures, and I
definitely don't lack for any tools. Part of the hobby for me is to see how
creative and self-sufficient I can get. Must come from my childhood where
nothing was handed to me. This seems to be about Freddie's attempt to create
something without a pot of gold or equipment at his disposal, and to enhance
his skill. It's always easier to find an EASY way to do something., and
always easy to find a way NOT to do something. Personal struggle builds
character.

RJ

If the OP was in your league he wouldn't have been asking.
Since he's asking, he needs to know how to do it the EASY way - which
is generally the RIGHT way.
I have a vice I use for that kind of thing that is not bolted to
anything. Use it as a combination large vice-grips and anvil.
I bought it on the road one day to replace a "U" joint on my van that
let go on the side of the interstate just outside Gary Indianna one
labour day weekend. (we had to change the joint IN THE TRUCK because
the bolts would not come out on the rear diff flange - so my CHEST
ended up being the workbench.
The cost of a cheap vice is negligible, and becomes part of your
arsenal of tools to attack many other jobs in the future.

Best to learn how to do something right first - then when you need to
bodge something, you know what you need to "duplicate" to do the job.


"Freddie" wrote in message
...
I'm making a bracket for my racing seat. I'm trying to use the
original mounting holes in the car (a 96 Miata) which are angle away
from each other. My plan is to get a pair of 19" x 2" x 1/4" steel
strip to mount the seat on.

I need to bend the two ends of the metal strip about (20 and 30
degrees). My question is, how can I bend the metal strip with common
garage tools?

I was think to position the metal strip between 2 thick pieces of
metal and use my trailer and jack stand as a vice to hold it near
horizontal. Then use my car jack to bend the metal. I can use a
welding torch to heat the metal if necessary.

Thanks,
Freddie



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote in message
...
On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 06:49:40 -0500, "Backlash"
wrote:

If you have a receiver type hitch on a towing vehicle, make a wood
block
that is 2" X 1-3/4" in thickness, about 4 inches long, and place the
short
bend end of your metal strip into the empty receiver hitch along with the
block on top of the bar inside the hitch, and bend using the longer length
of your flatbar and your foot as the lever. Clamp a couple of 2X4 pieces
in
a sandwich fashion on the bar if you need to increase length and leverage
for bending, or to prevent curving of the long part. If done properly, you
can even bend an offset (zigzag) into the bar by bending the most inward
bend first. This will not get you really crisp bends, but it may well
serve
your purpose. Be extremely wary of using the torch to help with the bend
around a vehicle, due to the obvious fuel tank located on the vehicle, and
danger of a fire/ explosion.
Now, if the bar needs to be bent sideways, ie. the "hardway" then
thats another story. If you need this type of bend, you will need to go
to
a shop with the proper facilities, or do a cut and weld.
There are always nay-sayers who have good intentions, and that's very
admirable, but if I had listened to them, I would not have the skills I
have
today. At 14 years old, I built a go-kart out of 1/2" galvanized pipe and
small wheels salvaged from my uncle's farm junkpile. The project was built
using sand and wood plugs to pack the pipe to bend around a forked pecan
tree. The entire unit was bolted together using rat -tail filed coped
joints
with wood plugs driven in at the joints, along with small lag screws to
bolt
it together untill I cut enough grass for hire to be able to afford to
have
it welded. The engine was a vertical shaft, so I removed the governor and
converted the engine to horizontal by making an adapter plate to rotate
the
carb 90 degrees. An oil dipper was made for the connecting rod. Angle iron
pieces provided the engine mounts. The shaft was 7/8", so I made wood
blocks
the correct length to place on either side of the crankshaft, and with the
engine running, filed the crankshaft to 3/4" so a clutch I had scrounged
would fit. Never discount wood's uses in metalworking.
With all this rambling, I guess I'm saying that a man can do a lot of
things if he has the determination , resourcefulness, and a logical and
safe
thought process. Don't give up, but for sure, do it as safely as possible
P.S. Using a trailer tongue jack to clamp SOME things down would work
if
you first place the tongue inside a garage doorway and use a T shaped
stiffknee made of 2X4 against the top of the doorway or open roof trusses
to
allow you to apply downward pressure in a MODERATE amount. Chock wheels
for
this.

RJ

For crying out loud, vices are CHEAP and usefull for so many things -
why would you try to use anything else? Clamp the bar in the vise,
with the short end sticking out and beat the short end with a big
hammet to the right angle. It AINT ROCKET SCIENCE. If you cannot
handle this, you should NOT be playing around with seat mounting
brackets.



So, farmers and such that break down in fields in remote areas should wait
until they can go home and build a fabrication shop before attempting
repairs? Maybe Freddie is conserving money for his project. Maybe he does
not have a solid workbench to PUT a vise on. I find that various areas of my
forklift carriage and mast assembly make excellent bending fixtures, and I
definitely don't lack for any tools. Part of the hobby for me is to see how
creative and self-sufficient I can get. Must come from my childhood where
nothing was handed to me. This seems to be about Freddie's attempt to create
something without a pot of gold or equipment at his disposal, and to enhance
his skill. It's always easier to find an EASY way to do something., and
always easy to find a way NOT to do something. Personal struggle builds
character.

RJ


"Freddie" wrote in message
...
I'm making a bracket for my racing seat. I'm trying to use the
original mounting holes in the car (a 96 Miata) which are angle away
from each other. My plan is to get a pair of 19" x 2" x 1/4" steel
strip to mount the seat on.

I need to bend the two ends of the metal strip about (20 and 30
degrees). My question is, how can I bend the metal strip with common
garage tools?

I was think to position the metal strip between 2 thick pieces of
metal and use my trailer and jack stand as a vice to hold it near
horizontal. Then use my car jack to bend the metal. I can use a
welding torch to heat the metal if necessary.

Thanks,
Freddie



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Ivan, I still have my 3/8" drive SK Wayne socket set in the toolbox in
the back of my car. It's been 44 years now since I bought it for 13 dollars,
and a set of vise grips for $2.45. I remember it so well because it was such
a major purchase for me at the time. Next purchase was a B&D 1/4" drill.
Cutting grass brought $2 a yard then. The gas cost 10 cents for the mower.
I guess that's why I pull so hard for the underdog. My first major
mechanical accomplishment was also the disassembly of a car, bit by bit, the
hard way. Rolled the engine out through the grill area, by hand. Now I build
my own street rods and motorcycles from the chassis up. I kindly correct
anyone at work who tells me they can't do something. I tell them no, that's
not correct, just so far, they have been unable to accomplish their goal.
Never had to say it more than once. They always try to give it a shot after
that. Too much negativity in the world today, as it is.

RJ

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:bVNJj.61$PJ3.30@trndny02...

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Freddie,
Bending this plate is very easy with a brake or even a large vice or
hydraulic press. All of which are common garage tools. What you're
telling this audience is that you are dangerous to yourself and others.
please acquire and use the correct tools for the job. Stupidity has a way
of purging the gene pool.
Steve

Hey Steve,

The above is a little harsh.
We (at least I) all started with mostly nothing in the way of tools (55±
years ago). I remember as a 12 year old, taking apart an abandoned
automobile differential with hammer, chisel and repeated dropping from a
third floor balcony onto a concrete patio. I remember at the age of 13
saving up enough money for an S&K 1/2" socket set. We've all bent metal
by wedging one end between tree branches etc.
Give the OP a break and help him in his quest.

Ivan Vegvary

clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote in message
...
On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 11:54:03 -0500, "Backlash"
wrote:


clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 06:49:40 -0500, "Backlash"
wrote:

If you have a receiver type hitch on a towing vehicle, make a wood
block
that is 2" X 1-3/4" in thickness, about 4 inches long, and place the
short
bend end of your metal strip into the empty receiver hitch along with
the
block on top of the bar inside the hitch, and bend using the longer
length
of your flatbar and your foot as the lever. Clamp a couple of 2X4 pieces
in
a sandwich fashion on the bar if you need to increase length and
leverage
for bending, or to prevent curving of the long part. If done properly,
you
can even bend an offset (zigzag) into the bar by bending the most inward
bend first. This will not get you really crisp bends, but it may well
serve
your purpose. Be extremely wary of using the torch to help with the bend
around a vehicle, due to the obvious fuel tank located on the vehicle,
and
danger of a fire/ explosion.
Now, if the bar needs to be bent sideways, ie. the "hardway" then
thats another story. If you need this type of bend, you will need to go
to
a shop with the proper facilities, or do a cut and weld.
There are always nay-sayers who have good intentions, and that's
very
admirable, but if I had listened to them, I would not have the skills I
have
today. At 14 years old, I built a go-kart out of 1/2" galvanized pipe
and
small wheels salvaged from my uncle's farm junkpile. The project was
built
using sand and wood plugs to pack the pipe to bend around a forked pecan
tree. The entire unit was bolted together using rat -tail filed coped
joints
with wood plugs driven in at the joints, along with small lag screws to
bolt
it together untill I cut enough grass for hire to be able to afford to
have
it welded. The engine was a vertical shaft, so I removed the governor
and
converted the engine to horizontal by making an adapter plate to rotate
the
carb 90 degrees. An oil dipper was made for the connecting rod. Angle
iron
pieces provided the engine mounts. The shaft was 7/8", so I made wood
blocks
the correct length to place on either side of the crankshaft, and with
the
engine running, filed the crankshaft to 3/4" so a clutch I had scrounged
would fit. Never discount wood's uses in metalworking.
With all this rambling, I guess I'm saying that a man can do a lot
of
things if he has the determination , resourcefulness, and a logical and
safe
thought process. Don't give up, but for sure, do it as safely as
possible
P.S. Using a trailer tongue jack to clamp SOME things down would
work
if
you first place the tongue inside a garage doorway and use a T shaped
stiffknee made of 2X4 against the top of the doorway or open roof
trusses
to
allow you to apply downward pressure in a MODERATE amount. Chock wheels
for
this.

RJ

For crying out loud, vices are CHEAP and usefull for so many things -
why would you try to use anything else? Clamp the bar in the vise,
with the short end sticking out and beat the short end with a big
hammet to the right angle. It AINT ROCKET SCIENCE. If you cannot
handle this, you should NOT be playing around with seat mounting
brackets.



So, farmers and such that break down in fields in remote areas should wait
until they can go home and build a fabrication shop before attempting
repairs? Maybe Freddie is conserving money for his project. Maybe he does
not have a solid workbench to PUT a vise on. I find that various areas of
my
forklift carriage and mast assembly make excellent bending fixtures, and I
definitely don't lack for any tools. Part of the hobby for me is to see
how
creative and self-sufficient I can get. Must come from my childhood where
nothing was handed to me. This seems to be about Freddie's attempt to
create
something without a pot of gold or equipment at his disposal, and to
enhance
his skill. It's always easier to find an EASY way to do something., and
always easy to find a way NOT to do something. Personal struggle builds
character.

RJ

If the OP was in your league he wouldn't have been asking.
Since he's asking, he needs to know how to do it the EASY way - which
is generally the RIGHT way.
I have a vice I use for that kind of thing that is not bolted to
anything. Use it as a combination large vice-grips and anvil.
I bought it on the road one day to replace a "U" joint on my van that
let go on the side of the interstate just outside Gary Indianna one
labour day weekend. (we had to change the joint IN THE TRUCK because
the bolts would not come out on the rear diff flange - so my CHEST
ended up being the workbench.
The cost of a cheap vice is negligible, and becomes part of your
arsenal of tools to attack many other jobs in the future.

Best to learn how to do something right first - then when you need to
bodge something, you know what you need to "duplicate" to do the job.

Whew! that's about as ugly a road repair as it gets. You have some very good
points to consider. Sounds like the time at about 18, I pulled the
transmission out of my girlfriends MG midget, on the ground, then was later
told I should have pulled the engine to do the job. I had to rotate the
tranny over several times to get it out through the maze. It was a bitch.
As a side suggestion, beginners can start out with a small vise mounted
to a 2" receiver hitch tube if they have the a vehicle available with a
receiver hitch. This should cost about $35 for a setup, and will allow a lot
of work to be done with very little. Various attachments made to go into
these hitches can suffice for a lot of jobs. Control and rigidity is the
major part of mechanical endeavors.

RJ






"Freddie" wrote in message
...
I'm making a bracket for my racing seat. I'm trying to use the
original mounting holes in the car (a 96 Miata) which are angle away
from each other. My plan is to get a pair of 19" x 2" x 1/4" steel
strip to mount the seat on.

I need to bend the two ends of the metal strip about (20 and 30
degrees). My question is, how can I bend the metal strip with common
garage tools?

I was think to position the metal strip between 2 thick pieces of
metal and use my trailer and jack stand as a vice to hold it near
horizontal. Then use my car jack to bend the metal. I can use a
welding torch to heat the metal if necessary.

Thanks,
Freddie



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On Apr 5, 12:15 am, "Steve Lusardi" wrote:
Freddie,
Bending this plate is very easy with a brake or even a large vice or
hydraulic press. All of which are common garage tools. What you're telling
this audience is that you are dangerous to yourself and others. please
acquire and use the correct tools for the job. Stupidity has a way of
purging the gene pool.
Steve


I have a big vice, but it's mounted on my workbench and I won't be
able to use the car jack to bend it. Will this easy to bend if I put
the strip in the vice, add an extension to the metal strip and just
muscle it? I haven't gotten the metal yet so I'm not sure how
difficult this piece will be to bend.

Having built a base, or two, for racing seats, I'd say that 1/4
material is overkill. 1/8 material is sufficient and is what all of
the commercial set bases that I've seen are made from. Pretty easy to
bent 1/8 material by clamping it in a vise and whacking it with a hand
sledge. No heat is needed, nor is a lot of precision required.

1/8 should be good enough and it should be much easier to work with.

Thanks,
Freddie

On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 13:21:51 -0500, "Backlash"
wrote:


I have a vice I use for that kind of thing that is not bolted to
anything. Use it as a combination large vice-grips and anvil.
I bought it on the road one day to replace a "U" joint on my van that
let go on the side of the interstate just outside Gary Indianna one
labour day weekend. (we had to change the joint IN THE TRUCK because
the bolts would not come out on the rear diff flange - so my CHEST
ended up being the workbench.
The cost of a cheap vice is negligible, and becomes part of your
arsenal of tools to attack many other jobs in the future.

Best to learn how to do something right first - then when you need to
bodge something, you know what you need to "duplicate" to do the job.

Whew! that's about as ugly a road repair as it gets. You have some very good
points to consider. Sounds like the time at about 18, I pulled the
transmission out of my girlfriends MG midget, on the ground, then was later
told I should have pulled the engine to do the job. I had to rotate the
tranny over several times to get it out through the maze. It was a bitch.
As a side suggestion, beginners can start out with a small vise mounted
to a 2" receiver hitch tube if they have the a vehicle available with a
receiver hitch. This should cost about $35 for a setup, and will allow a lot
of work to be done with very little. Various attachments made to go into
these hitches can suffice for a lot of jobs. Control and rigidity is the
major part of mechanical endeavors.

RJ

Yea, I've had my fun over the years!!
Lost the engine mount on my '67 Peugot 204 wagon between Lusaka and
Livingstone Zambia - 4 in the tree shifter locked up so I only had 2
gears. No mount in the country at the time so I pulled the mount and
welded in a chunk of steel pipe to keep the engine up off the shift
linkage.

Then heading down a back road (again in Zambia) with my '49 VW I
stripped out the spline in the left rear brake drum. No drum for that
model available so I took one from a '62 and cut about 1/2 inch off
with a hammer, cold chisel, and a dull hack saw (mostly hammer and
chisel)

Had the hood latch let go on a VW 412 wagon (again in Zambia)at 75MPH
- went straight up and never touched the roof- had to weld the hinges
together and tie the hood down with rope until I could get a
replacement latch assy.

When I got to Lusaka on that trip I scrambled a drive shaft "U" joint
and had to change it on the side of the road - one wheel on the curb,
and me underneath in the gutter. Luckily there was a joint available!!

Then there was the "U" joint on the Aerostar that I mentioned
previously - and about a month ago I was to the International Auto
Show in Toronto and the rad drain plug on my '95 Pontiac TransSport
broke off, dumping all the antifreeze on a Saturday. I got a can of
spray foam insulation and blew a wad of it into the drain hole - it
held antifreeze long enough to get the 70 miles or so back home to
Kitchener.

Having spent many years as a mechanic I knew what COULD be done, and
what HAD TO BE DONE, and just did it.





"Freddie" wrote in message
...
I'm making a bracket for my racing seat. I'm trying to use the
original mounting holes in the car (a 96 Miata) which are angle away
from each other. My plan is to get a pair of 19" x 2" x 1/4" steel
strip to mount the seat on.

I need to bend the two ends of the metal strip about (20 and 30
degrees). My question is, how can I bend the metal strip with common
garage tools?

I was think to position the metal strip between 2 thick pieces of
metal and use my trailer and jack stand as a vice to hold it near
horizontal. Then use my car jack to bend the metal. I can use a
welding torch to heat the metal if necessary.

Thanks,
Freddie



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com




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On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 11:34:15 -0700 (PDT), Freddie
wrote:

Having built a base, or two, for racing seats, I'd say that 1/4
material is overkill. 1/8 material is sufficient and is what all of
the commercial set bases that I've seen are made from. Pretty easy to
bent 1/8 material by clamping it in a vise and whacking it with a hand
sledge. No heat is needed, nor is a lot of precision required.

1/8 should be good enough and it should be much easier to work with.

I'd agree that 1/8" is more than enough, especially if it's wide
enough to spread out the loads - if you want a bit more thickness, use
a washer on top. If you don't trust the design, add gussets between
the brackets and the long seat rails and/or some cross pieces of strap
stock to tie together the two mounting tabs.

And adding some dull-red heat to get the steel plastic at the
bending point will turn the bending process from two-handed whacking
(and the resulting big dents) when done cold, to one-handed tapping as
you sneak up on the right angle with the bend area hot.

And as a bonus, if you do it hot and concentrate the heat properly
at the bend line it will bend only in the hot zone like you want, and
you won't have to flatten the tab back out again afterwards.

-- Bruce --

On Sat, 05 Apr 2008 16:37:27 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"
wrote:


"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Freddie,
Bending this plate is very easy with a brake or even a large vice or
hydraulic press. All of which are common garage tools. What you're telling
this audience is that you are dangerous to yourself and others. please
acquire and use the correct tools for the job. Stupidity has a way of
purging the gene pool.
Steve

Hey Steve,

The above is a little harsh.
We (at least I) all started with mostly nothing in the way of tools (55±
years ago). I remember as a 12 year old, taking apart an abandoned
automobile differential with hammer, chisel and repeated dropping from a
third floor balcony onto a concrete patio. I remember at the age of 13
saving up enough money for an S&K 1/2" socket set. We've all bent metal by
wedging one end between tree branches etc.
Give the OP a break and help him in his quest.

Ivan Vegvary

Hear Hear!!

Gunner



"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

You might want to use hot rolled if you're going to bend it cold. Cold
rolled will usually crack during bending, unless it is first annealed with
the torch.

RJ

"Freddie" wrote in message
...
Having built a base, or two, for racing seats, I'd say that 1/4
material is overkill. 1/8 material is sufficient and is what all of
the commercial set bases that I've seen are made from. Pretty easy to
bent 1/8 material by clamping it in a vise and whacking it with a hand
sledge. No heat is needed, nor is a lot of precision required.

1/8 should be good enough and it should be much easier to work with.

Thanks,
Freddie

On Sat, 05 Apr 2008 10:31:42 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm,
clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada quickly quoth:

On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 06:49:40 -0500, "Backlash"
wrote:

If you have a receiver type hitch on a towing vehicle, make a wood block
that is 2" X 1-3/4" in thickness, about 4 inches long, and place the short
bend end of your metal strip into the empty receiver hitch along with the
--snip--

For crying out loud, vices are CHEAP and usefull for so many things -
why would you try to use anything else? Clamp the bar in the vise,
with the short end sticking out and beat the short end with a big
hammet to the right angle. It AINT ROCKET SCIENCE. If you cannot
handle this, you should NOT be playing around with seat mounting
brackets.

I used my 6" vise to bend my mower handle open. It broke the last time
I mowed so I fixed that today. The ends of the tube were flattened and
drilled. It broke at the flattened portion. I opened the flat up and
inserted a piece fo scrap 1/8" steel strap, then TIGged it together
and painted it. It took about an hour all told.

My vise was both my press and my holder for the welding.

--
Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what
to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity.
-- George S. Patton

I'm making a bracket for my racing seat. I'm trying to use the
original mounting holes in the car (a 96 Miata) which are angle away
from each other. My plan is to get a pair of 19" x 2" x 1/4" steel
strip to mount the seat on.

I need to bend the two ends of the metal strip about (20 and 30
degrees). My question is, how can I bend the metal strip with common
garage tools?

I was think to position the metal strip between 2 thick pieces of
metal and use my trailer and jack stand as a vice to hold it near
horizontal. Then use my car jack to bend the metal. I can use a
welding torch to heat the metal if necessary.

Thanks,
Freddie
If'n ya got a torch, simply c-clamp or vise-grip the metal to
something, then heat across the strip where you want to bend it and
use a crescent (adjustable) wrench to do the bending.
Ken.

Having built a base, or two, for racing seats, I'd say that 1/4
material is overkill. 1/8 material is sufficient and is what all of
the commercial set bases that I've seen are made from. Pretty easy to
bent 1/8 material by clamping it in a vise and whacking it with a hand
sledge. No heat is needed, nor is a lot of precision required.

I was at a race car fabrication shop today for an alignment, and the
guy their working on the race cars suggested using 1/4 steel as oppose
to 1/8. It's an overkill, but it's the only thing holding the seat in
when the car flips.