Anyone spinning metal? I just got these DVDs and thought that they
were excellent.
http://www.metalspinningworkshop.com/

Buy_Sell wrote:

Anyone spinning metal? I just got these DVDs and thought that they
were excellent.
http://www.metalspinningworkshop.com/

I have both sets and found them very good. If your discs are DVD
recordable rather than mask produced I might consider making a backup
though. I was surprised to find both copies I have of the 1 DVD set were
corrupted after a little over a year and viewing about 3 times, a couple
of the DVDs were almost unplayable for large parts. I posted on the old
BB and got the response that all media were the highest quality TDK and
had the thread locked as off topic. I later did some investigation and
the following I sent to Terry but got no reply.

In the course of investigating whether the DVDs I am using for software
backup were most suitable I came across the following article
http://adterrasperaspera.com/blog/20...rchival-media/
, this lead me to check the 6 disks you have provided and the Verbatim
DVD+R I use. The following is the result of testing the 6 disks you
provided and the ratings are from this page
http://www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm .

1st DVD set, set 1

2 x RITEK R03 DVD+R (2nd class media, notes: degradation
concerns), DVD+R better than -R from 1st sited article but poorer media.

1st DVD set, set 2

1 x TYG02 DVD-R (1st class media), 1x PRODISCF01 DVD-R (2nd class
media),

2nd DVD set

2 x TTG02 DVD-R (1st class media, actually TDK)


So it seems the latest DVD set is TDK but the earlier corrupted ones are
not although the 1st sited article did mention TDK selling Taiyo Yuden
disks which might be the single TYG02 disk in the 1st sets, the other 3
1st set disks being on poorer quality media. Interesting that one of the
1st DVD sets was DVD+R, which is said to be far better than DVD-R but
overall 4 out of the 6 DVDs I have from you are DVD-R.

Thanks for the information. I will try to make a backup.
What program would you suggest to backup a DVD?
Also, have you spun any projects?
I am just getting setup but I plan to make model turbine engines.

On Nov 4, 7:57 am, David Billington
wrote:
Buy_Sell wrote:
Anyone spinning metal? I just got these DVDs and thought that they
were excellent.
http://www.metalspinningworkshop.com/

I have both sets and found them very good. If your discs are DVD
recordable rather than mask produced I might consider making a backup
though. I was surprised to find both copies I have of the 1 DVD set were
corrupted after a little over a year and viewing about 3 times, a couple
of the DVDs were almost unplayable for large parts. I posted on the old
BB and got the response that all media were the highest quality TDK and
had the thread locked as off topic. I later did some investigation and
the following I sent to Terry but got no reply.

In the course of investigating whether the DVDs I am using for software
backup were most suitable I came across the following articlehttp://adterrasperaspera.com/blog/2006/10/30/how-to-choose-cddvd-arch...
, this lead me to check the 6 disks you have provided and the Verbatim
DVD+R I use. The following is the result of testing the 6 disks you
provided and the ratings are from this pagehttp://www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm.

1st DVD set, set 1

2 x RITEK R03 DVD+R (2nd class media, notes: degradation
concerns), DVD+R better than -R from 1st sited article but poorer media.

1st DVD set, set 2

1 x TYG02 DVD-R (1st class media), 1x PRODISCF01 DVD-R (2nd class
media),

2nd DVD set

2 x TTG02 DVD-R (1st class media, actually TDK)

So it seems the latest DVD set is TDK but the earlier corrupted ones are
not although the 1st sited article did mention TDK selling Taiyo Yuden
disks which might be the single TYG02 disk in the 1st sets, the other 3
1st set disks being on poorer quality media. Interesting that one of the
1st DVD sets was DVD+R, which is said to be far better than DVD-R but
overall 4 out of the 6 DVDs I have from you are DVD-R.

Buy_Sell wrote:

Thanks for the information. I will try to make a backup.
What program would you suggest to backup a DVD?
Also, have you spun any projects?
I am just getting setup but I plan to make model turbine engines.

You may be able to just do a disc copy using software such as Nero which
I have, if you have different software you will have to check its
documentation. In order to verify the data could be read I copied the
contents of the VIDEO_TS directory on the DVD to a drive and a new disc
can be made with this information.

While I have spun a number of items the only one I have pictures of is
here http://www.metal-arts.co.uk/tankard/index.html , must take some
better pics sometime.

What parts, cowls and the like. I presume in stainless. I have read that
stainless is a sod to spin, you should get good advice of the spinning
website.



On Nov 4, 7:57 am, David Billington
wrote:

Buy_Sell wrote:

Anyone spinning metal? I just got these DVDs and thought that they
were excellent.
http://www.metalspinningworkshop.com/

I have both sets and found them very good. If your discs are DVD
recordable rather than mask produced I might consider making a backup
though. I was surprised to find both copies I have of the 1 DVD set were
corrupted after a little over a year and viewing about 3 times, a couple
of the DVDs were almost unplayable for large parts. I posted on the old
BB and got the response that all media were the highest quality TDK and
had the thread locked as off topic. I later did some investigation and
the following I sent to Terry but got no reply.

In the course of investigating whether the DVDs I am using for software
backup were most suitable I came across the following articlehttp://adterrasperaspera.com/blog/2006/10/30/how-to-choose-cddvd-arch...
, this lead me to check the 6 disks you have provided and the Verbatim
DVD+R I use. The following is the result of testing the 6 disks you
provided and the ratings are from this pagehttp://www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm.

1st DVD set, set 1

2 x RITEK R03 DVD+R (2nd class media, notes: degradation
concerns), DVD+R better than -R from 1st sited article but poorer media.

1st DVD set, set 2

1 x TYG02 DVD-R (1st class media), 1x PRODISCF01 DVD-R (2nd class
media),

2nd DVD set

2 x TTG02 DVD-R (1st class media, actually TDK)

So it seems the latest DVD set is TDK but the earlier corrupted ones are
not although the 1st sited article did mention TDK selling Taiyo Yuden
disks which might be the single TYG02 disk in the 1st sets, the other 3
1st set disks being on poorer quality media. Interesting that one of the
1st DVD sets was DVD+R, which is said to be far better than DVD-R but
overall 4 out of the 6 DVDs I have from you are DVD-R.

Excellent work, David. I could only hope to be able to learn the same
skills.
What method did you use to melt the metal for your casting?
I bought all of Steve Chastain's books regarding forging and casting.
http://stephenchastain.com/


On Nov 4, 1:00 pm, David Billington
wrote:

While I have spun a number of items the only one I have pictures of is
herehttp://www.metal-arts.co.uk/tankard/index.html, must take some
better pics sometime.

Buy_Sell wrote:

Excellent work, David. I could only hope to be able to learn the same
skills.
What method did you use to melt the metal for your casting?
I bought all of Steve Chastain's books regarding forging and casting.
http://stephenchastain.com/

Thanks for the compliment. That tankard is pewter which is very easy to
spin as it doesn't work harder, that didn't stop me screwing a few up
when I went back to do a few more after not doing any for a couple of
years. The first ones I did just came out right, my neighbour said like
shelling peas. I started on a goblet shape which I realise now is tricky
due to the small base and so desrtoyed the blanks quickly but did manage
to get the hang of it on the 7th or 8th one IIRC. At least now there are
internet resources like the spinning group for backup, when I started I
just had to wing it with the little info I could find.

The handle was cast in pewter which melts about 300C (572F) and I just
melted it in a stainless steel kitchen ladle over a propane torch. The
metal is hotter than recommended for the RTV but in practice it stands
up fine for the limited numbers being cast.

The other item I spun on my site is the soffietta
http://www.metal-arts.co.uk/soffietta/index.html . In brass they require
1 or 2 anneals depending on size. The worst I have done for anneals was
an item like a trumpet cone about 6" OD in about .8mm brass, it took
about an hour total of which maybe 10 minutes was spinning and 50
minutes annealing, probably about 12 - 15 anneals.




On Nov 4, 1:00 pm, David Billington
wrote:

While I have spun a number of items the only one I have pictures of is
herehttp://www.metal-arts.co.uk/tankard/index.html, must take some
better pics sometime.

Very nice, I actually had to look up Soffietta because I was
unfamiliar with glass blowing terms.

I noticed that you had a circle cutter. Where do you purchase these?

I found a website that shows how to make the cutter and I might end up
having to do that.
http://www.jamesriser.com/RiserCircle/Shear.html
I thought that it could be made from a few rear axle shafts from a
truck.


On Nov 4, 2:15 pm, David Billington
wrote:

The other item I spun on my site is the soffiettahttp://www.metal-arts.co.uk/soffietta/index.html. In brass they require
1 or 2 anneals depending on size. The worst I have done for anneals was
an item like a trumpet cone about 6" OD in about .8mm brass, it took
about an hour total of which maybe 10 minutes was spinning and 50
minutes annealing, probably about 12 - 15 anneals.

Buy_Sell wrote:

Very nice, I actually had to look up Soffietta because I was
unfamiliar with glass blowing terms.

I noticed that you had a circle cutter. Where do you purchase these?

That circle cutter came off ebay. I wasn't looking for one at the time
but stumbled across it when looking for something else so I bid and was
the only bidder so got it for £70 ish. It's a Keetona made by Keetons,
who are still in business, but they haven't made them for over 25 years
apparently.



I found a website that shows how to make the cutter and I might end up
having to do that.
http://www.jamesriser.com/RiserCircle/Shear.html
I thought that it could be made from a few rear axle shafts from a
truck.

I have seen the James Riser site so know the design, Lots of ways to do
it, the axles should make a beafy unit. Mine will cut 1.5mm steel but I
think having done it I will limit it to about 1.2mm. It also won't go
below about 4" diameter. Having a fly press though I can punch smaller
sizes. The other day I made a punch and die from mild steel to punch
some plastic circles about 1.5" diameter, it worked quite well on 1mm
copper and aluminium as well.



On Nov 4, 2:15 pm, David Billington
wrote:

The other item I spun on my site is the soffiettahttp://www.metal-arts.co.uk/soffietta/index.html. In brass they require
1 or 2 anneals depending on size. The worst I have done for anneals was
an item like a trumpet cone about 6" OD in about .8mm brass, it took
about an hour total of which maybe 10 minutes was spinning and 50
minutes annealing, probably about 12 - 15 anneals.

Hey David, one quick question. What do you use for lubricant when
spinning?


On Nov 4, 3:50 pm, David Billington
wrote:

That circle cutter came off ebay. I wasn't looking for one at the time
but stumbled across it when looking for something else so I bid and was
the only bidder so got it for £70 ish. It's a Keetona made by Keetons,
who are still in business, but they haven't made them for over 25 years
apparently.

I have seen the James Riser site so know the design, Lots of ways to do
it, the axles should make a beafy unit. Mine will cut 1.5mm steel but I
think having done it I will limit it to about 1.2mm. It also won't go
below about 4" diameter. Having a fly press though I can punch smaller
sizes. The other day I made a punch and die from mild steel to punch
some plastic circles about 1.5" diameter, it worked quite well on 1mm
copper and aluminium as well.

Buy_Sell wrote:

Hey David, one quick question. What do you use for lubricant when
spinning?

Tallow, seems to work well for all the non ferrous stuff I have done so
far. The BB guys in the US keep mentioning toilet wax rings and oil. I
asked a guy I know that has been in the UK building trade about 30 years
and he gave me an odd look and said something about strange US people.
Seems we use rubber seals and have done for years.


On Nov 4, 3:50 pm, David Billington
wrote:

That circle cutter came off ebay. I wasn't looking for one at the time
but stumbled across it when looking for something else so I bid and was
the only bidder so got it for £70 ish. It's a Keetona made by Keetons,
who are still in business, but they haven't made them for over 25 years
apparently.


I have seen the James Riser site so know the design, Lots of ways to do
it, the axles should make a beafy unit. Mine will cut 1.5mm steel but I
think having done it I will limit it to about 1.2mm. It also won't go
below about 4" diameter. Having a fly press though I can punch smaller
sizes. The other day I made a punch and die from mild steel to punch
some plastic circles about 1.5" diameter, it worked quite well on 1mm
copper and aluminium as well.

I was going to mention the toilet wax but I thought that maybe I
misunderstood what I heard on the DVD. I seem to remember seeing that
the toilet wax in Canada is made from bees wax. Where do you get your
tallow from?

On Nov 5, 4:38 am, David Billington
wrote:
Buy_Sell wrote:
Hey David, one quick question. What do you use for lubricant when
spinning?

Tallow, seems to work well for all the non ferrous stuff I have done so
far. The BB guys in the US keep mentioning toilet wax rings and oil. I
asked a guy I know that has been in the UK building trade about 30 years
and he gave me an odd look and said something about strange US people.
Seems we use rubber seals and have done for years.

Buy_Sell wrote:

I was going to mention the toilet wax but I thought that maybe I
misunderstood what I heard on the DVD. I seem to remember seeing that
the toilet wax in Canada is made from bees wax. Where do you get your
tallow from?

I can get it at my local engineering suppliers in 1 pound pots, I don't
know why they stock it, I will have to ask. I can also get it from a
jewelry supplier as they sell it to mix with pitch for raising and
repousse work. Probably other sources if I looked I just happen to know
those two off the top of my head.



On Nov 5, 4:38 am, David Billington
wrote:

Buy_Sell wrote:

Hey David, one quick question. What do you use for lubricant when
spinning?

Tallow, seems to work well for all the non ferrous stuff I have done so
far. The BB guys in the US keep mentioning toilet wax rings and oil. I
asked a guy I know that has been in the UK building trade about 30 years
and he gave me an odd look and said something about strange US people.
Seems we use rubber seals and have done for years.

"David Billington" wrote in message
...


Buy_Sell wrote:

I was going to mention the toilet wax but I thought that maybe I
misunderstood what I heard on the DVD. I seem to remember seeing that
the toilet wax in Canada is made from bees wax. Where do you get your
tallow from?

I can get it at my local engineering suppliers in 1 pound pots, I don't
know why they stock it, I will have to ask. I can also get it from a
jewelry supplier as they sell it to mix with pitch for raising and
repousse work. Probably other sources if I looked I just happen to know
those two off the top of my head.



On Nov 5, 4:38 am, David Billington
wrote:

Buy_Sell wrote:

Hey David, one quick question. What do you use for lubricant when
spinning?

Tallow, seems to work well for all the non ferrous stuff I have done so
far. The BB guys in the US keep mentioning toilet wax rings and oil. I
asked a guy I know that has been in the UK building trade about 30 years
and he gave me an odd look and said something about strange US people.
Seems we use rubber seals and have done for years.




UK tallow, may be what we know as (pork) Lard. I have used it for decades
when machining aluminum. For spinning, I just use automotive axle grease.

As for the toilet rings, in my part of Canada, most are rubber, but the wax
ones are still available. It's the cheapest way to buy bees wax!

Steve R.


--
Reply address munged to bugger up spammers

In article PyPXi.180846$th2.104503@pd7urf3no,
"Steve R." wrote:

"David Billington" wrote in message
...


Buy_Sell wrote:

I was going to mention the toilet wax but I thought that maybe I
misunderstood what I heard on the DVD. I seem to remember seeing that
the toilet wax in Canada is made from bees wax. Where do you get your
tallow from?

I can get it at my local engineering suppliers in 1 pound pots, I don't
know why they stock it, I will have to ask. I can also get it from a
jewelry supplier as they sell it to mix with pitch for raising and
repousse work. Probably other sources if I looked I just happen to know
those two off the top of my head.



On Nov 5, 4:38 am, David Billington
wrote:

Buy_Sell wrote:

Hey David, one quick question. What do you use for lubricant when
spinning?

Tallow, seems to work well for all the non ferrous stuff I have done so
far. The BB guys in the US keep mentioning toilet wax rings and oil. I
asked a guy I know that has been in the UK building trade about 30 years
and he gave me an odd look and said something about strange US people.
Seems we use rubber seals and have done for years.




UK tallow, may be what we know as (pork) Lard. I have used it for decades
when machining aluminum. For spinning, I just use automotive axle grease.

Tallow is to beef what lard is to pork.

One can make one's own tallow by collecting beef fat and rendering it.

I think tallow is harder than lard. People used to make candles from
tallow, and there were old food recipes that called for a tallow candle
or two. You could eat everything but the wick.

That said, lard may well work.

Joe Gwinn

As an aside, John Ratzenberger did a segment on U.S. Pole (IIRC) in
California. They had him spin a lamp shade for a street light. It started
as a round flat blank, and then they spun it. He applied pressure with a
wood (again, IIRC) rod and it formed over a pattern. It was really cool, as
I have seen thousands of those and wondered, "How did they do that".

Steve

On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 18:59:19 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:

As an aside, John Ratzenberger did a segment on U.S. Pole (IIRC) in
California. They had him spin a lamp shade for a street light. It started
as a round flat blank, and then they spun it. He applied pressure with a
wood (again, IIRC) rod and it formed over a pattern. It was really cool, as
I have seen thousands of those and wondered, "How did they do that".

Steve


http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...nt=Spinvid.flv
Daveb

Steve R. wrote:

"David Billington" wrote in message
k...


Buy_Sell wrote:

I was going to mention the toilet wax but I thought that maybe I
misunderstood what I heard on the DVD. I seem to remember seeing that
the toilet wax in Canada is made from bees wax. Where do you get your
tallow from?

I can get it at my local engineering suppliers in 1 pound pots, I don't
know why they stock it, I will have to ask. I can also get it from a
jewelry supplier as they sell it to mix with pitch for raising and
repousse work. Probably other sources if I looked I just happen to know
those two off the top of my head.


On Nov 5, 4:38 am, David Billington
wrote:

Buy_Sell wrote:

Hey David, one quick question. What do you use for lubricant when
spinning?

Tallow, seems to work well for all the non ferrous stuff I have done so
far. The BB guys in the US keep mentioning toilet wax rings and oil. I
asked a guy I know that has been in the UK building trade about 30 years
and he gave me an odd look and said something about strange US people.
Seems we use rubber seals and have done for years.


UK tallow, may be what we know as (pork) Lard. I have used it for decades
when machining aluminum. For spinning, I just use automotive axle grease.

A quick google got tallow as "The suet or fat of animals of the sheep
and ox kinds separated from the membranous and fibrous matter by melting" .
Having tried using grease, I preferred using tallow, it seemed much less
messy.

I will try the wax recipe some time now that you have mentioned beeswax
in the toilet rings as I have a couple of good sized blocks of beeswax.



As for the toilet rings, in my part of Canada, most are rubber, but the wax
ones are still available. It's the cheapest way to buy bees wax!

Steve R.

On Sat, 03 Nov 2007 22:53:00 -0700, Buy_Sell
wrote:

Anyone spinning metal? I just got these DVDs and thought that they
were excellent.
http://www.metalspinningworkshop.com/

I have the tooling for it, and have tried it a few times, but it's not
as easy as you'd hope, at least with drag tools on a wood lathe.

The main problem I have had is with scalloping on the outside edges as
the part is being formed. Recently, someone posted a video on You
Tube that showed it being done, and it appears that the resolution to
this might be to have a secondary roller behind the blank that keeps
the metal from doing this- but I haven't had the time to try that out
yet.

If you're using drag tools, make sure they're smooth and
mirror-polished, and then make them smoother. That'll work good for
copper and brass, but I've never got aluminum to turn out without
galling.

Best bet is probably to make roller tools- I'm sure there are guys who
can make good parts with the old drag tools, but it's not easy.

On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 20:00:49 +0000, David Billington
wrote:



Buy_Sell wrote:

Thanks for the information. I will try to make a backup.
What program would you suggest to backup a DVD?
Also, have you spun any projects?
I am just getting setup but I plan to make model turbine engines.

You may be able to just do a disc copy using software such as Nero which
I have, if you have different software you will have to check its
documentation. In order to verify the data could be read I copied the
contents of the VIDEO_TS directory on the DVD to a drive and a new disc
can be made with this information.

While I have spun a number of items the only one I have pictures of is
here http://www.metal-arts.co.uk/tankard/index.html , must take some
better pics sometime.

That's some nice work.

What parts, cowls and the like. I presume in stainless. I have read that
stainless is a sod to spin, you should get good advice of the spinning
website.

On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 11:38:04 +0000, David Billington
wrote:



Buy_Sell wrote:

Hey David, one quick question. What do you use for lubricant when
spinning?

Tallow, seems to work well for all the non ferrous stuff I have done so
far. The BB guys in the US keep mentioning toilet wax rings and oil. I
asked a guy I know that has been in the UK building trade about 30 years
and he gave me an odd look and said something about strange US people.
Seems we use rubber seals and have done for years.

The suggestion I got was Murphy's Oil soap, if the others don't work
for you.

On Nov 11, 1:41 am, Prometheus wrote:
On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 11:38:04 +0000, David Billington

wrote:

Buy_Sell wrote:

Hey David, one quick question. What do you use for lubricant when
spinning?

Tallow, seems to work well for all the non ferrous stuff I have done so
far. The BB guys in the US keep mentioning toilet wax rings and oil. I
asked a guy I know that has been in the UK building trade about 30 years
and he gave me an odd look and said something about strange US people.
Seems we use rubber seals and have done for years.

The suggestion I got was Murphy's Oil soap, if the others don't work
for you.

Well, at least with Murphy's Oil soap, if the part doesn't turn out
the way that you had hoped, it should be pretty clean. ;-)

Prometheus wrote:
On Sat, 03 Nov 2007 22:53:00 -0700, Buy_Sell
wrote:


Anyone spinning metal? I just got these DVDs and thought that they
were excellent.
http://www.metalspinningworkshop.com/


I have the tooling for it, and have tried it a few times, but it's not
as easy as you'd hope, at least with drag tools on a wood lathe.

What ever is.
The main problem I have had is with scalloping on the outside edges as
the part is being formed. Recently, someone posted a video on You
Tube that showed it being done, and it appears that the resolution to
this might be to have a secondary roller behind the blank that keeps
the metal from doing this- but I haven't had the time to try that out
yet.

IIRC the scalloping is due to trying to move the material too far in any
one pass, it can also be a problem with thin material where the blank is
large in comparison to the thickness. I both cases the problem can be
prevented, hopefully, by using a back stick, basically a wooden stick
held on the back of the part to oppose the spinning tool. The back
stick I normally use is about 1" square maple and tapered one end to
get better access as the blank nears the chuck. It is recommended that
it be held underneath the spinning rest which works for me.
If you're using drag tools, make sure they're smooth and
mirror-polished, and then make them smoother. That'll work good for
copper and brass, but I've never got aluminum to turn out without
galling.


If you're getting galling is is most likely due to letting the lubricant
film get removed. You need to keep moving and if the lubricant gets
removed in any area then apply more, aluminium galls very easily in my
experience.

Best bet is probably to make roller tools- I'm sure there are guys who
can make good parts with the old drag tools, but it's not easy.

Roller tools seem to be used for larger work as they reduce the effort
involved. If you are not getting the results with drag tools that would
suggest you need to refine the technique and practice. Good tips
available at the forum the OP posted.

I got the one from Jim Riser - I like his concepts.
I did some in college in a cross Industrial arts class -
A little of this and that
as a general education for those not planning on a specific. I was physics.
I needed the spinning, plastics and ceramics background in the work
I was doing at the time. It was a God send in time.

Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Prometheus wrote:
On Sat, 03 Nov 2007 22:53:00 -0700, Buy_Sell
wrote:

Anyone spinning metal? I just got these DVDs and thought that they
were excellent.
http://www.metalspinningworkshop.com/

I have the tooling for it, and have tried it a few times, but it's not
as easy as you'd hope, at least with drag tools on a wood lathe.

The main problem I have had is with scalloping on the outside edges as
the part is being formed. Recently, someone posted a video on You
Tube that showed it being done, and it appears that the resolution to
this might be to have a secondary roller behind the blank that keeps
the metal from doing this- but I haven't had the time to try that out
yet.

If you're using drag tools, make sure they're smooth and
mirror-polished, and then make them smoother. That'll work good for
copper and brass, but I've never got aluminum to turn out without
galling.

Best bet is probably to make roller tools- I'm sure there are guys who
can make good parts with the old drag tools, but it's not easy.

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On Sun, 11 Nov 2007 01:16:27 -0800, Buy_Sell
wrote:

On Nov 11, 1:41 am, Prometheus wrote:
On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 11:38:04 +0000, David Billington

wrote:

Buy_Sell wrote:

Hey David, one quick question. What do you use for lubricant when
spinning?

Tallow, seems to work well for all the non ferrous stuff I have done so
far. The BB guys in the US keep mentioning toilet wax rings and oil. I
asked a guy I know that has been in the UK building trade about 30 years
and he gave me an odd look and said something about strange US people.
Seems we use rubber seals and have done for years.

The suggestion I got was Murphy's Oil soap, if the others don't work
for you.

Well, at least with Murphy's Oil soap, if the part doesn't turn out
the way that you had hoped, it should be pretty clean. ;-)

Smells nice, too.

On Sun, 11 Nov 2007 10:55:30 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

Prometheus wrote:
On Sat, 03 Nov 2007 22:53:00 -0700, Buy_Sell
wrote:


Anyone spinning metal? I just got these DVDs and thought that they
were excellent.
http://www.metalspinningworkshop.com/


I have the tooling for it, and have tried it a few times, but it's not
as easy as you'd hope, at least with drag tools on a wood lathe.

What ever is.
The main problem I have had is with scalloping on the outside edges as
the part is being formed. Recently, someone posted a video on You
Tube that showed it being done, and it appears that the resolution to
this might be to have a secondary roller behind the blank that keeps
the metal from doing this- but I haven't had the time to try that out
yet.

IIRC the scalloping is due to trying to move the material too far in any
one pass, it can also be a problem with thin material where the blank is
large in comparison to the thickness. I both cases the problem can be
prevented, hopefully, by using a back stick, basically a wooden stick
held on the back of the part to oppose the spinning tool. The back
stick I normally use is about 1" square maple and tapered one end to
get better access as the blank nears the chuck. It is recommended that
it be held underneath the spinning rest which works for me.

I'll give that a try- I've got all the 1" maple rips I could ever
want, and that sounds a lot easier than trying to rig up some kind of
spring roller on the backside.

If you're using drag tools, make sure they're smooth and
mirror-polished, and then make them smoother. That'll work good for
copper and brass, but I've never got aluminum to turn out without
galling.


If you're getting galling is is most likely due to letting the lubricant
film get removed. You need to keep moving and if the lubricant gets
removed in any area then apply more, aluminium galls very easily in my
experience.

Mine too. Maybe I'll try out tallow or lard one of these days, and
see how that treats me.

Best bet is probably to make roller tools- I'm sure there are guys who
can make good parts with the old drag tools, but it's not easy.

Roller tools seem to be used for larger work as they reduce the effort
involved. If you are not getting the results with drag tools that would
suggest you need to refine the technique and practice. Good tips
available at the forum the OP posted.

Definately need more practice to do it well- but there just never seem
to be enough hours in the day. Could be my tools as well- I forged
them myself out of 1018 bar stock, and just guessed at which profiles
might be useful. They work, as far as it goes, but I'm obviously
missing a few things that are probably second-nature to a good
spinner.

OTOH, I found that coppersmithing with a tiny ball-peen hammer and
temporary hardwood swage block is about as easy as it gets. Not
nearly as smooth as a spun part, but sometimes the hammer marks add
enough sparkle to make boring stuff look sharper than it has any right
to.