I have a metal pin look like this


| \
=====\
| /

It is attached to glass panel

| glass
|====\ glass
| glass


I need to take the pin out. The flat part of the pin has
dimension of 5/16 inch. The pin attached to a glass panel. I bought a
1/8" titanium bit and drilled the pin hopefully to break it apart.
The drill bit just made a scratch on the pin but does not penetrate.

How should I take it out without breaking the glass panel ?

Thanks,
Nick

wrote:
I have a metal pin look like this


| \
=====\
| /

It is attached to glass panel

| glass
|====\ glass
| glass


I need to take the pin out. The flat part of the pin has
dimension of 5/16 inch. The pin attached to a glass panel. I bought a
1/8" titanium bit and drilled the pin hopefully to break it apart.
The drill bit just made a scratch on the pin but does not penetrate.

How should I take it out without breaking the glass panel ?

Acid?

On Nov 3, 1:48 pm, wrote:
I have a metal pin look like this

| \
=====\
| /

It is attached to glass panel

| glass
|====\ glass
| glass

I need to take the pin out. The flat part of the pin has
dimension of 5/16 inch. The pin attached to a glass panel. I bought a
1/8" titanium bit and drilled the pin hopefully to break it apart.
The drill bit just made a scratch on the pin but does not penetrate.

How should I take it out without breaking the glass panel ?

Thanks,
Nick

I'd try nitric acid

"Gerry" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Nov 3, 1:48 pm, wrote:
I have a metal pin look like this

| \
=====\
| /

It is attached to glass panel

| glass
|====\ glass
| glass

I need to take the pin out. The flat part of the pin has
dimension of 5/16 inch. The pin attached to a glass panel. I bought a
1/8" titanium bit and drilled the pin hopefully to break it apart.
The drill bit just made a scratch on the pin but does not penetrate.

How should I take it out without breaking the glass panel ?

Thanks,
Nick

I'd try nitric acid


Acid would be good, but nitric isn't all that good of a choice.
Hydrochloric will dissolve steel readily, and is inexpensive and readily
available, unlike nitric. Sulfuric would do the job, too. Be sure to
keep it submerged adequately, not only for cooling, but for keeping a fresh
supply of acid at the work. Give the acid plenty of time to get the job
done. HCl will actually work quite fast, thus the concern about heating.

Wear eye, skin and lung protection when working with these acids------and
remember that the gas coming off will be hydrogen-----so do this where there
is adequate ventilation, and there's nothing that will be ruined by rusting.
If you do this operation inside, where there are iron surfaces, you can
expect all of them to be damaged by the fumes.

Harold

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
. net...

"Gerry" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Nov 3, 1:48 pm, wrote:
I have a metal pin look like this

| \
=====\
| /

It is attached to glass panel

| glass
|====\ glass
| glass

I need to take the pin out. The flat part of the pin has
dimension of 5/16 inch. The pin attached to a glass panel. I bought a
1/8" titanium bit and drilled the pin hopefully to break it apart.
The drill bit just made a scratch on the pin but does not penetrate.

How should I take it out without breaking the glass panel ?

Thanks,
Nick

I'd try nitric acid


Acid would be good, but nitric isn't all that good of a choice.
Hydrochloric will dissolve steel readily, and is inexpensive and readily
available, unlike nitric. Sulfuric would do the job, too. Be sure
to keep it submerged adequately, not only for cooling, but for keeping a
fresh supply of acid at the work. Give the acid plenty of time to get
the job done. HCl will actually work quite fast, thus the concern about
heating.

Wear eye, skin and lung protection when working with these acids------and
remember that the gas coming off will be hydrogen-----so do this where
there is adequate ventilation, and there's nothing that will be ruined by
rusting. If you do this operation inside, where there are iron surfaces,
you can expect all of them to be damaged by the fumes.

Harold


Are you sure that hydrochloric acid doesn't etch glass? I thought it did,
but my memory could be playing tricks.

--
Ed Huntress

On Nov 3, 9:41?pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in ws.tds.net...







"Gerry" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Nov 3, 1:48 pm, wrote:
I have a metal pin look like this

| \
=====\
| /

It is attached to glass panel

| glass
|====\ glass
| glass

I need to take the pin out. The flat part of the pin has
dimension of 5/16 inch. The pin attached to a glass panel. I bought a
1/8" titanium bit and drilled the pin hopefully to break it apart.
The drill bit just made a scratch on the pin but does not penetrate.

How should I take it out without breaking the glass panel ?

Thanks,
Nick

I'd try nitric acid

Acid would be good, but nitric isn't all that good of a choice.
Hydrochloric will dissolve steel readily, and is inexpensive and readily
available, unlike nitric. Sulfuric would do the job, too. Be sure
to keep it submerged adequately, not only for cooling, but for keeping a
fresh supply of acid at the work. Give the acid plenty of time to get
the job done. HCl will actually work quite fast, thus the concern about
heating.

Wear eye, skin and lung protection when working with these acids------and
remember that the gas coming off will be hydrogen-----so do this where
there is adequate ventilation, and there's nothing that will be ruined by
rusting. If you do this operation inside, where there are iron surfaces,
you can expect all of them to be damaged by the fumes.

Harold

Are you sure that hydrochloric acid doesn't etch glass? I thought it did,
but my memory could be playing tricks.

--
Ed Huntress- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You're thinking of hydroflouric acid (HF) not hydrochloric (HCL).
They're in the same family but HF is much more potent.
Engineman

wrote in message
oups.com...
On Nov 3, 9:41?pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in
ws.tds.net...







"Gerry" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Nov 3, 1:48 pm, wrote:
I have a metal pin look like this

| \
=====\
| /

It is attached to glass panel

| glass
|====\ glass
| glass

I need to take the pin out. The flat part of the pin has
dimension of 5/16 inch. The pin attached to a glass panel. I bought
a
1/8" titanium bit and drilled the pin hopefully to break it apart.
The drill bit just made a scratch on the pin but does not penetrate.

How should I take it out without breaking the glass panel ?

Thanks,
Nick

I'd try nitric acid

Acid would be good, but nitric isn't all that good of a choice.
Hydrochloric will dissolve steel readily, and is inexpensive and
readily
available, unlike nitric. Sulfuric would do the job, too. Be
sure
to keep it submerged adequately, not only for cooling, but for keeping
a
fresh supply of acid at the work. Give the acid plenty of time to get
the job done. HCl will actually work quite fast, thus the concern
about
heating.

Wear eye, skin and lung protection when working with these
acids------and
remember that the gas coming off will be hydrogen-----so do this where
there is adequate ventilation, and there's nothing that will be ruined
by
rusting. If you do this operation inside, where there are iron
surfaces,
you can expect all of them to be damaged by the fumes.

Harold

Are you sure that hydrochloric acid doesn't etch glass? I thought it did,
but my memory could be playing tricks.

--
Ed Huntress- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You're thinking of hydroflouric acid (HF) not hydrochloric (HCL).
They're in the same family but HF is much more potent.
Engineman

Yeah, I know that hydrofluoric is used for decorative etching, but I thought
that hydrochloric also etches glass, or at least frosts it. I'll have to
look it up and see if my memory is failing me.

--
Ed Huntress

On Nov 3, 10:19?pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...





On Nov 3, 9:41?pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in
ws.tds.net...

"Gerry" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Nov 3, 1:48 pm, wrote:
I have a metal pin look like this

| \
=====\
| /

It is attached to glass panel

| glass
|====\ glass
| glass

I need to take the pin out. The flat part of the pin has
dimension of 5/16 inch. The pin attached to a glass panel. I bought
a
1/8" titanium bit and drilled the pin hopefully to break it apart.
The drill bit just made a scratch on the pin but does not penetrate.

How should I take it out without breaking the glass panel ?

Thanks,
Nick

I'd try nitric acid

Acid would be good, but nitric isn't all that good of a choice.
Hydrochloric will dissolve steel readily, and is inexpensive and
readily
available, unlike nitric. Sulfuric would do the job, too. Be
sure
to keep it submerged adequately, not only for cooling, but for keeping
a
fresh supply of acid at the work. Give the acid plenty of time to get
the job done. HCl will actually work quite fast, thus the concern
about
heating.

Wear eye, skin and lung protection when working with these
acids------and
remember that the gas coming off will be hydrogen-----so do this where
there is adequate ventilation, and there's nothing that will be ruined
by
rusting. If you do this operation inside, where there are iron
surfaces,
you can expect all of them to be damaged by the fumes.

Harold

Are you sure that hydrochloric acid doesn't etch glass? I thought it did,
but my memory could be playing tricks.

--
Ed Huntress- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You're thinking of hydroflouric acid (HF) not hydrochloric (HCL).
They're in the same family but HF is much more potent.
Engineman

Yeah, I know that hydrofluoric is used for decorative etching, but I thought
that hydrochloric also etches glass, or at least frosts it. I'll have to
look it up and see if my memory is failing me.

--
Ed Huntress- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

HCL is sometimes sold in glass bottles.
Engineman

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
oups.com...
On Nov 3, 9:41?pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in
ws.tds.net...







"Gerry" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Nov 3, 1:48 pm, wrote:
I have a metal pin look like this

| \
=====\
| /

It is attached to glass panel

| glass
|====\ glass
| glass

I need to take the pin out. The flat part of the pin has
dimension of 5/16 inch. The pin attached to a glass panel. I bought
a
1/8" titanium bit and drilled the pin hopefully to break it apart.
The drill bit just made a scratch on the pin but does not penetrate.

How should I take it out without breaking the glass panel ?

Thanks,
Nick

I'd try nitric acid

Acid would be good, but nitric isn't all that good of a choice.
Hydrochloric will dissolve steel readily, and is inexpensive and
readily
available, unlike nitric. Sulfuric would do the job, too. Be
sure
to keep it submerged adequately, not only for cooling, but for keeping
a
fresh supply of acid at the work. Give the acid plenty of time to
get
the job done. HCl will actually work quite fast, thus the concern
about
heating.

Wear eye, skin and lung protection when working with these
acids------and
remember that the gas coming off will be hydrogen-----so do this where
there is adequate ventilation, and there's nothing that will be ruined
by
rusting. If you do this operation inside, where there are iron
surfaces,
you can expect all of them to be damaged by the fumes.

Harold

Are you sure that hydrochloric acid doesn't etch glass? I thought it
did,
but my memory could be playing tricks.

--
Ed Huntress- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You're thinking of hydroflouric acid (HF) not hydrochloric (HCL).
They're in the same family but HF is much more potent.
Engineman

Yeah, I know that hydrofluoric is used for decorative etching, but I
thought that hydrochloric also etches glass, or at least frosts it. I'll
have to look it up and see if my memory is failing me.

It appears that hydrochloric reacts noticeably with some glasses but not
others. It will leach out metallic ions from several types of glass, leaving
a lightly etched, often irridescent surface on the glass.

--
Ed Huntress

Everyone,

Thanks for suggesting the Acid. Unfortunately, there is no easy way
for me to apply it. The metal pin is attached to the
metal frame which cover the top of glass. If I use Acid, I might
destroy the metal frame. This link shows the picture of
Kohler shower door.

http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatal...=2&category=12

I'm trying to remove the top metal frame from it. Here is my crude
diagram

-----------------------------------
|Metal Frame |
| |+
| O (pin) |+
| |
----------------------------------
| |
| glass |
| |

The metal frame protect the top part of the glass and provide the
hinge to the door. I need to remove the pin so that
I can take the metal frame out temporary. If I use acide on the pin,
there is good chance it's going to destroy the metal
frame as well.

If you think there are other way beside using the acid, please let me
know.

Thanks
Nick

I would seriously consider using a diamond or silicon carbide abrasive bit
and just grinding the pin down - if you make a little wax dam all around it
you can keep water in there to cool and remove the ground up metal - it
should grind away just fine if you are patient - a dremel tool (or better an
air tool to eliminate shock hazard) would do the trick







"Nick" wrote in message
oups.com...
Everyone,

Thanks for suggesting the Acid. Unfortunately, there is no easy way
for me to apply it. The metal pin is attached to the
metal frame which cover the top of glass. If I use Acid, I might
destroy the metal frame. This link shows the picture of
Kohler shower door.

http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatal...=2&category=12

I'm trying to remove the top metal frame from it. Here is my crude
diagram

-----------------------------------
|Metal Frame |
| |+
| O (pin) |+
| |
----------------------------------
| |
| glass |
| |

The metal frame protect the top part of the glass and provide the
hinge to the door. I need to remove the pin so that
I can take the metal frame out temporary. If I use acide on the pin,
there is good chance it's going to destroy the metal
frame as well.

If you think there are other way beside using the acid, please let me
know.

Thanks
Nick





--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Hey Nick,

http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatal.../1011451_2.pdf

Please refer to page 3 of that pdf.

Pry off the top back cover from the inside of the shower.
Be sure to support the door so it doesn't shatter on the way down.
Have someone on the other side gently remove the top hinge as you loosen
the screws and back plate. That will separate the top hinge from the
glass door. Pivot the door open and lift it off the bottom hinge half.

Be careful!

--Winston

wrote:
On Nov 3, 10:19?pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:

You're thinking of hydroflouric acid (HF) not hydrochloric (HCL).
They're in the same family but HF is much more potent.
Engineman

Yeah, I know that hydrofluoric is used for decorative etching, but I thought
that hydrochloric also etches glass, or at least frosts it. I'll have to
look it up and see if my memory is failing me.

--
Ed Huntress- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


HCL is sometimes sold in glass bottles.

Let's guess what they used for HF before plasics have been
invented...? Glass would be proper guess. Covered with
parafine/wax.

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
. net...

"Gerry" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Nov 3, 1:48 pm, wrote:
I have a metal pin look like this

| \
=====\
| /

It is attached to glass panel

| glass
|====\ glass
| glass

I need to take the pin out. The flat part of the pin has
dimension of 5/16 inch. The pin attached to a glass panel. I bought a
1/8" titanium bit and drilled the pin hopefully to break it apart.
The drill bit just made a scratch on the pin but does not penetrate.

How should I take it out without breaking the glass panel ?

Thanks,
Nick

I'd try nitric acid


Acid would be good, but nitric isn't all that good of a choice.
Hydrochloric will dissolve steel readily, and is inexpensive and readily
available, unlike nitric. Sulfuric would do the job, too. Be sure
to keep it submerged adequately, not only for cooling, but for keeping a
fresh supply of acid at the work. Give the acid plenty of time to get
the job done. HCl will actually work quite fast, thus the concern about
heating.

Wear eye, skin and lung protection when working with these acids------and
remember that the gas coming off will be hydrogen-----so do this where
there is adequate ventilation, and there's nothing that will be ruined by
rusting. If you do this operation inside, where there are iron surfaces,
you can expect all of them to be damaged by the fumes.

Harold


Are you sure that hydrochloric acid doesn't etch glass? I thought it did,
but my memory could be playing tricks.

--
Ed Huntress

You're thinking of hydrofluoric.

Harold

"William Noble" wrote in message
.. .
I would seriously consider using a diamond or silicon carbide abrasive bit
and just grinding the pin down - if you make a little wax dam all around it
you can keep water in there to cool and remove the ground up metal - it
should grind away just fine if you are patient - a dremel tool (or better
an air tool to eliminate shock hazard) would do the trick

Your idea is the one I had next, William, but both of the types you
recommended are not proper for application on steel. Both of them are
soluble at heat, and dull quickly. Aluminum oxide would be the best choice
here, unless speed could be kept quite low, then diamond would work
reasonably well. Heat is going to be a problem, so this entire matter
should be handled slowly, allowing plenty of time for it to dissipate.

Harold

Winston wrote:
Hey Nick,

http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatal.../1011451_2.pdf

Please refer to page 3 of that pdf.

Pry off the top back cover from the inside of the shower.
Be sure to support the door so it doesn't shatter on the way down.
Have someone on the other side gently remove the top hinge as you loosen
the screws and back plate. That will separate the top hinge from the
glass door. Pivot the door open and lift it off the bottom hinge half.

Be careful!

--Winston

That's pretty funny..

John

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
snip-----

It appears that hydrochloric reacts noticeably with some glasses but not
others. It will leach out metallic ions from several types of glass,
leaving a lightly etched, often irridescent surface on the glass.

--
Ed Huntress

That's not likely to be a problem with common glass, which doesn't contain
metals. I can see where lead crystal might be affected, however. The
borosilicate glass used in labs, along with common household glass are not
affected by HCl. I used the same 1 liter decanter for HCL almost the
entire time (about 20 years) I refined precious metals and had no
degradation of glass quality.

Harold

Nick wrote:

If you think there are other way beside using the acid, please let me
know.


Buy a Dremel tool at your local DIY store and grind it away. Of course I
have to ask if you have called Kohler and explained your need to disassemble
and asked for guidance?

I'm curious about their customer support.

Wes

"Coyher" wrote in message
t...
wrote:
On Nov 3, 10:19?pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:

You're thinking of hydroflouric acid (HF) not hydrochloric (HCL).
They're in the same family but HF is much more potent.
Engineman

Yeah, I know that hydrofluoric is used for decorative etching, but I
thought
that hydrochloric also etches glass, or at least frosts it. I'll have to
look it up and see if my memory is failing me.

--
Ed Huntress- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


HCL is sometimes sold in glass bottles.

Let's guess what they used for HF before plasics have been invented...?
Glass would be proper guess. Covered with
parafine/wax.

Yeah. Now covered with plastic. But it had to be the right type of glass.

--
Ed Huntress

JohnM wrote:
Winston wrote:

Hey Nick,

http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatal.../1011451_2.pdf

Please refer to page 3 of that pdf.

Pry off the top back cover from the inside of the shower.
Be sure to support the door so it doesn't shatter on the way down.
Have someone on the other side gently remove the top hinge as you
loosen the screws and back plate. That will separate the top hinge
from the glass door. Pivot the door open and lift it off the bottom
hinge half.

Be careful!

--Winston


That's pretty funny..

John

Thankyouverymuch, I'm here till Tuesday.


--Winston

"Maxwell Lol" wrote in message
...
"Ed Huntress" writes:

It appears that hydrochloric reacts noticeably with some glasses but not
others. It will leach out metallic ions from several types of glass,
leaving
a lightly etched, often irridescent surface on the glass.

I've seen pattens in glass what will only appear if you breathe on the
glass - the vapor in your breath causes the image to appear.

Any clues on to the acid to use, and techniques to apply the acid?

If you're asking me, Max, I have no clues. That one sounds pretty exotic.

--
Ed Huntress

"Ed Huntress" fired this volley in
:


"Maxwell Lol" wrote in message
...
"Ed Huntress" writes:

It appears that hydrochloric reacts noticeably with some glasses but
not others. It will leach out metallic ions from several types of
glass, leaving
a lightly etched, often irridescent surface on the glass.

I've seen pattens in glass what will only appear if you breathe on
the glass - the vapor in your breath causes the image to appear.

Any clues on to the acid to use, and techniques to apply the acid?

If you're asking me, Max, I have no clues. That one sounds pretty
exotic.

If dilute enough, and applied only for a short time, hydrofluoric acid
will lightly enough etch glass so the pattern is only an area of
increased porosity.

Hydrofluoric acid is the standard for glass etching of any depth.

About twenty years ago, I was given a bottle of Glenfiddich Special
Reserve for Christmas. The bottle came in a (metal content!) metal
cylinder, and wrapped in a large tissue with the Glenfiddich Stag emblem
in line-contrast black.


Hmmmm.... (More Metal Content!) My guns were looking for a classier
home, so I transferred the stag to a sheet of glass, along with the
"Glenfiddich Special Reserve" banner around it, and etched it on the
backside of the glass.

Then, of course (no metal here) built a new wooden gun cabinet around the
glass.

Classy... I don't have one, but it looks like it belongs in an old
Winsor manor's den.

LLoyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
"Ed Huntress" fired this volley in
:


"Maxwell Lol" wrote in message
...
"Ed Huntress" writes:

It appears that hydrochloric reacts noticeably with some glasses but
not others. It will leach out metallic ions from several types of
glass, leaving
a lightly etched, often irridescent surface on the glass.

I've seen pattens in glass what will only appear if you breathe on
the glass - the vapor in your breath causes the image to appear.

Any clues on to the acid to use, and techniques to apply the acid?

If you're asking me, Max, I have no clues. That one sounds pretty
exotic.

If dilute enough, and applied only for a short time, hydrofluoric acid
will lightly enough etch glass so the pattern is only an area of
increased porosity.

Hydrofluoric acid is the standard for glass etching of any depth.

About twenty years ago, I was given a bottle of Glenfiddich Special
Reserve for Christmas. The bottle came in a (metal content!) metal
cylinder, and wrapped in a large tissue with the Glenfiddich Stag emblem
in line-contrast black.


Hmmmm.... (More Metal Content!) My guns were looking for a classier
home, so I transferred the stag to a sheet of glass, along with the
"Glenfiddich Special Reserve" banner around it, and etched it on the
backside of the glass.

Then, of course (no metal here) built a new wooden gun cabinet around the
glass.

Classy... I don't have one, but it looks like it belongs in an old
Winsor manor's den.

Hmm. 'Sounds like a good reason to buy a Purdy shotgun and a couple of H&H
rifles to me, to properly complete the decor. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

On Nov 4, 12:03 am, "William Noble" wrote:
I would seriously consider using a diamond or silicon carbide abrasive bit
and just grinding the pin down - if you make a little wax dam all around it
you can keep water in there to cool and remove the ground up metal - it
should grind away just fine if you are patient - a dremel tool (or better an
air tool to eliminate shock hazard) would do the trick

"Nick" wrote in message

oups.com...



Everyone,

Thanks for suggesting the Acid. Unfortunately, there is no easy way
for me to apply it. The metal pin is attached to the
metal frame which cover the top of glass. If I use Acid, I might
destroy the metal frame. This link shows the picture of
Kohler shower door.

http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatal...thumb&frm=null...

I'm trying to remove the top metal frame from it. Here is my crude
diagram

-----------------------------------
|Metal Frame |
| |+
| O (pin) |+
| |
----------------------------------
| |
| glass |
| |

The metal frame protect the top part of the glass and provide the
hinge to the door. I need to remove the pin so that
I can take the metal frame out temporary. If I use acide on the pin,
there is good chance it's going to destroy the metal
frame as well.

If you think there are other way beside using the acid, please let me
know.

Thanks
Nick

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

shower doors are tempered. i'd be very careful doing any grinding work
on or near them, or you'll wind up with a buckfull of glass crumbs.

regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/chaniarts

On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 11:10:53 -0800, charlie
wrote:

On Nov 4, 12:03 am, "William Noble" wrote:
I would seriously consider using a diamond or silicon carbide abrasive bit
and just grinding the pin down - if you make a little wax dam all around it
you can keep water in there to cool and remove the ground up metal - it
should grind away just fine if you are patient - a dremel tool (or better an
air tool to eliminate shock hazard) would do the trick

"Nick" wrote in message

oups.com...



Everyone,

Thanks for suggesting the Acid. Unfortunately, there is no easy way
for me to apply it. The metal pin is attached to the
metal frame which cover the top of glass. If I use Acid, I might
destroy the metal frame. This link shows the picture of
Kohler shower door.

http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatal...thumb&frm=null...

I'm trying to remove the top metal frame from it. Here is my crude
diagram

-----------------------------------
|Metal Frame |
| |+
| O (pin) |+
| |
----------------------------------
| |
| glass |
| |

The metal frame protect the top part of the glass and provide the
hinge to the door. I need to remove the pin so that
I can take the metal frame out temporary. If I use acide on the pin,
there is good chance it's going to destroy the metal
frame as well.

If you think there are other way beside using the acid, please let me
know.

Thanks
Nick

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

shower doors are tempered. i'd be very careful doing any grinding work
on or near them, or you'll wind up with a buckfull of glass crumbs.

regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/chaniarts
My experience with shower doors came about when the screw holding the
side frame extrusion to that forming the bottom frame member broke off
and the head and shank fell out. On dismounting the panel and turning
it up till I could see the method of joining, I determined that the
threaded portion of the screw could be seen through the slot in the
extrusion, the tube that the screw was driven into was actually a "C"
shape. I used a cut off wheel in my moto tool to grind a slot full
depth, the full length of the remainder of the screw, whereupon the
two pieces were readily removed with tweezers. The screw was then
replaced with a SS #8 wood screw.
Clear as mud?
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

I have a box of 4 gallons of it and a 8 pound bag of baking soda on the
boardwalk to my shop. I bought the high quality HCL from a pool supply.
The baking soda from Sams. The pool company quit buying the cheap common
grade once used. I think they got some with enough of something that
it stained something or messed up some other process. I use it to pickle
steel (take off rust and etch) sometimes to preserve or recondition,
but mostly to get tooth and a clean background for paint.


Hydrofluoric acid is most dangerous. It etches glass and dissolves
semiconductor. It also flows through the skin and dissolves human and
all cartilage in the joints. It doesn't feel good when you loose all the
cartilage in a hand. Rather gritty. That is why I turned down a gallon
jug from the FA lab in a semiconductor house I was an engineering manager
in. We closed down that lab and had an independent HAS MAT team come in
and clean up the lab. To many years it had gotten out of control.

The Has mat team were long time friends and skilled members of shut down
fabs. Engineers and Chemists cleaning up others mess, not theirs.
They got the training and developed processes only to loose their
jobs in price crunches and aging equipment - lack of real profit to
rebuild a $1B USD fab line.

Martin


Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


wrote:
On Nov 3, 10:19?pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...





On Nov 3, 9:41?pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in
ws.tds.net...
"Gerry" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Nov 3, 1:48 pm, wrote:
I have a metal pin look like this
| \
=====\
| /
It is attached to glass panel
| glass
|====\ glass
| glass
I need to take the pin out. The flat part of the pin has
dimension of 5/16 inch. The pin attached to a glass panel. I bought
a
1/8" titanium bit and drilled the pin hopefully to break it apart.
The drill bit just made a scratch on the pin but does not penetrate.
How should I take it out without breaking the glass panel ?
Thanks,
Nick
I'd try nitric acid
Acid would be good, but nitric isn't all that good of a choice.
Hydrochloric will dissolve steel readily, and is inexpensive and
readily
available, unlike nitric. Sulfuric would do the job, too. Be
sure
to keep it submerged adequately, not only for cooling, but for keeping
a
fresh supply of acid at the work. Give the acid plenty of time to get
the job done. HCl will actually work quite fast, thus the concern
about
heating.
Wear eye, skin and lung protection when working with these
acids------and
remember that the gas coming off will be hydrogen-----so do this where
there is adequate ventilation, and there's nothing that will be ruined
by
rusting. If you do this operation inside, where there are iron
surfaces,
you can expect all of them to be damaged by the fumes.
Harold
Are you sure that hydrochloric acid doesn't etch glass? I thought it did,
but my memory could be playing tricks.
--
Ed Huntress- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
You're thinking of hydroflouric acid (HF) not hydrochloric (HCL).
They're in the same family but HF is much more potent.
Engineman
Yeah, I know that hydrofluoric is used for decorative etching, but I thought
that hydrochloric also etches glass, or at least frosts it. I'll have to
look it up and see if my memory is failing me.

--
Ed Huntress- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

HCL is sometimes sold in glass bottles.
Engineman


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I think it was ceramic. Not soft glass but a high temp
flowing rock much like used on welding rods.

Soapstone was used for some complex stuff.

Clay containers have held chemicals and food for thousands
of years.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Ed Huntress wrote:
"Coyher" wrote in message
t...
wrote:
On Nov 3, 10:19?pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
You're thinking of hydroflouric acid (HF) not hydrochloric (HCL).
They're in the same family but HF is much more potent.
Engineman
Yeah, I know that hydrofluoric is used for decorative etching, but I
thought
that hydrochloric also etches glass, or at least frosts it. I'll have to
look it up and see if my memory is failing me.

--
Ed Huntress- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

HCL is sometimes sold in glass bottles.
Let's guess what they used for HF before plasics have been invented...?
Glass would be proper guess. Covered with
parafine/wax.

Yeah. Now covered with plastic. But it had to be the right type of glass.

--
Ed Huntress



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I suspect the peacock colors in leaded glass is from an HCL wash.
Thanks Ed.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Ed Huntress wrote:
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
wrote in message
oups.com...
On Nov 3, 9:41?pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in
ws.tds.net...







"Gerry" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Nov 3, 1:48 pm, wrote:
I have a metal pin look like this
| \
=====\
| /
It is attached to glass panel
| glass
|====\ glass
| glass
I need to take the pin out. The flat part of the pin has
dimension of 5/16 inch. The pin attached to a glass panel. I bought
a
1/8" titanium bit and drilled the pin hopefully to break it apart.
The drill bit just made a scratch on the pin but does not penetrate.
How should I take it out without breaking the glass panel ?
Thanks,
Nick
I'd try nitric acid
Acid would be good, but nitric isn't all that good of a choice.
Hydrochloric will dissolve steel readily, and is inexpensive and
readily
available, unlike nitric. Sulfuric would do the job, too. Be
sure
to keep it submerged adequately, not only for cooling, but for keeping
a
fresh supply of acid at the work. Give the acid plenty of time to
get
the job done. HCl will actually work quite fast, thus the concern
about
heating.
Wear eye, skin and lung protection when working with these
acids------and
remember that the gas coming off will be hydrogen-----so do this where
there is adequate ventilation, and there's nothing that will be ruined
by
rusting. If you do this operation inside, where there are iron
surfaces,
you can expect all of them to be damaged by the fumes.
Harold
Are you sure that hydrochloric acid doesn't etch glass? I thought it
did,
but my memory could be playing tricks.

--
Ed Huntress- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
You're thinking of hydroflouric acid (HF) not hydrochloric (HCL).
They're in the same family but HF is much more potent.
Engineman
Yeah, I know that hydrofluoric is used for decorative etching, but I
thought that hydrochloric also etches glass, or at least frosts it. I'll
have to look it up and see if my memory is failing me.

It appears that hydrochloric reacts noticeably with some glasses but not
others. It will leach out metallic ions from several types of glass, leaving
a lightly etched, often irridescent surface on the glass.

--
Ed Huntress



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Don't dip the door in the acid - doubt if you could buy that much
if any. Mostly you can buy some paste and some wipes.

I'd do the central down. Mask off with wax or tape and work
with paste.

It might be best to get it garnet blasted to frost.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Nick wrote:
Everyone,

Thanks for suggesting the Acid. Unfortunately, there is no easy way
for me to apply it. The metal pin is attached to the
metal frame which cover the top of glass. If I use Acid, I might
destroy the metal frame. This link shows the picture of
Kohler shower door.

http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatal...=2&category=12

I'm trying to remove the top metal frame from it. Here is my crude
diagram

-----------------------------------
|Metal Frame |
| |+
| O (pin) |+
| |
----------------------------------
| |
| glass |
| |

The metal frame protect the top part of the glass and provide the
hinge to the door. I need to remove the pin so that
I can take the metal frame out temporary. If I use acide on the pin,
there is good chance it's going to destroy the metal
frame as well.

If you think there are other way beside using the acid, please let me
know.

Thanks
Nick



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"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in message
...
I suspect the peacock colors in leaded glass is from an HCL wash.
Thanks Ed.

Martin

I wondered about those colors when I read about the iridescence that comes
from HCL etching, but I didn't see anything on Google about it being used as
a coloring method. Probably I wasn't asking Google the right questions.

--
Ed Huntress

On Nov 5, 9:28 pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in . ..

I suspect the peacock colors in leaded glass is from an HCL wash.
Thanks Ed.

Martin

I wondered about those colors when I read about the iridescence that comes
from HCL etching, but I didn't see anything on Google about it being used as
a coloring method. Probably I wasn't asking Google the right questions.

--
Ed Huntress

that usually comes from vapor deposits of stannous chloride applied to
the slightly under molten temp glass at a certain point in the
production of sheet glass.

there are other chemicals used in this too, but all applied to hot
glass as a vapor, for example dichroic glass is 10-30 layers of vapor
deposition of different kinds of metals in a vacuum chamber.

none of these processes is any type of etching with acids.

regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/chaniarts

"charlie" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Nov 5, 9:28 pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in
. ..

I suspect the peacock colors in leaded glass is from an HCL wash.
Thanks Ed.

Martin

I wondered about those colors when I read about the iridescence that
comes
from HCL etching, but I didn't see anything on Google about it being used
as
a coloring method. Probably I wasn't asking Google the right questions.

--
Ed Huntress

that usually comes from vapor deposits of stannous chloride applied to
the slightly under molten temp glass at a certain point in the
production of sheet glass.

there are other chemicals used in this too, but all applied to hot
glass as a vapor, for example dichroic glass is 10-30 layers of vapor
deposition of different kinds of metals in a vacuum chamber.

none of these processes is any type of etching with acids.

regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/chaniarts

Aha. Thanks, Charlie.

--
Ed Huntress