I have seen where people have converted old motors into generators. I
was thinking that would be a fun project and if I started with an old
generator should be even better.

I picked up (bought) a 4200W Coleman Generator with bag motor (piston
through the block). I thought the generator and engine were seperate
so I could add a different engine with maybe a coupling change. Not
so.

After getting the unit home and disassembling, I discovered the rear
engine bearing (the crackshaft extents into the generator armature)
was also the generator front bearing support. So after removing the
engine the generator has no front bearing.

So far I have the cost of the unit plus 3 hours time invested.

The cost to replace the engine would be too high. I could probably
buy a new generator for not much difference.

I am considering making an armature shaft extension and adding a new
bearing and support. I have Sears 6.6HP lawnmower engine to drive the
generator. This could be via belt or direct connection. Not sure if
the 6.6 is too small since the orginal engine was 8hp. Hopefully I
will get at least 3kw with a 6.6. I have a small lathe and mill dril
for making the adapter and bearing support.

The generator needs to turn CW as a viewed for the engine connection
end.
If I use a simple belt drive, the generator would run backwards from
its orginal setup. I can go direct couple if I hang the generator
below the engine (not good because the outlets are on the rear of the
generator. The engine runs CCW looking from the output shart towars
the engine.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

On 18 Jul 2004 20:52:56 -0700, (Robert Snyder)
wrote:

===I have seen where people have converted old motors into generators. I
===was thinking that would be a fun project and if I started with an old
===generator should be even better.
===
===I picked up (bought) a 4200W Coleman Generator with bag motor (piston
===through the block). I thought the generator and engine were seperate
===so I could add a different engine with maybe a coupling change. Not
===so.
===
===After getting the unit home and disassembling, I discovered the rear
===engine bearing (the crackshaft extents into the generator armature)
===was also the generator front bearing support. So after removing the
===engine the generator has no front bearing.
===
===So far I have the cost of the unit plus 3 hours time invested.
===
===The cost to replace the engine would be too high. I could probably
===buy a new generator for not much difference.
===
===I am considering making an armature shaft extension and adding a new
===bearing and support. I have Sears 6.6HP lawnmower engine to drive the
===generator. This could be via belt or direct connection. Not sure if
===the 6.6 is too small since the orginal engine was 8hp. Hopefully I
===will get at least 3kw with a 6.6. I have a small lathe and mill dril
===for making the adapter and bearing support.
===
===The generator needs to turn CW as a viewed for the engine connection
===end.
===If I use a simple belt drive, the generator would run backwards from
===its orginal setup. I can go direct couple if I hang the generator
===below the engine (not good because the outlets are on the rear of the
===generator. The engine runs CCW looking from the output shart towars
===the engine.
===
===Any suggestions would be helpful.


Have you actually checked on a replacement engine or shortblock from
Tulsa Small Engines or Small engine Warehouse? A lot of times they
have these engines for less than the price of dirt.


I have seen one ingenious individual salvage a gen set that had a
severely scored connecting rod journnal and piston. He removed the
piston and con rod, and bolted a section of the con rod on to the
crank shaft so it still had a slinger, removed giovernor and valve
train, and installed a pulley n the magneto side of the flywheel which
he drove with another common horizontal gas engine by way of a V belt.
It worked and worked fine, was a bit cumbersome when it came to moving
aorund but it provided power and all it cost him was time. He had
comtemplated making a plate with a bearing for the gen front support
but there was very little in the wya of shaft to work with an this was
his easiest way out. The internally stripped engine on this gen set
functioned mainly as a bearing support and driveline component.

The majority of all gen sets use a very short taper on the end of the
engines crank, so its not a odd ball setup.
Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wifes,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.

Thanks for the tip. A local supply house wanted $600. The Tulsa
Small Enignes and Small Engine Wareshouse were both a little over
$400. I'll have to keep them in mind for future buys.

The orignal block casting was badly damaged so I won't be able to use
it for bearing support.

If I make a new shaft and bearing. The bearing will need to carry
some axial load and hold the armature in postion. This would make it
easy to do a simple test to make sure the generator if fully
functioning. Any suggestions on bearing type?

If I go with an an adapter to mount direct to the 6.6hp engine no
addtionl bearing would be needed but I won't know until it is done if
the generator is really good.

Bob




(Roy) wrote in message . ..
On 18 Jul 2004 20:52:56 -0700, (Robert Snyder)
wrote:

===I have seen where people have converted old motors into generators. I
===was thinking that would be a fun project and if I started with an old
===generator should be even better.
===
===I picked up (bought) a 4200W Coleman Generator with bag motor (piston
===through the block). I thought the generator and engine were seperate
===so I could add a different engine with maybe a coupling change. Not
===so.
===
===After getting the unit home and disassembling, I discovered the rear
===engine bearing (the crackshaft extents into the generator armature)
===was also the generator front bearing support. So after removing the
===engine the generator has no front bearing.
===
===So far I have the cost of the unit plus 3 hours time invested.
===
===The cost to replace the engine would be too high. I could probably
===buy a new generator for not much difference.
===
===I am considering making an armature shaft extension and adding a new
===bearing and support. I have Sears 6.6HP lawnmower engine to drive the
===generator. This could be via belt or direct connection. Not sure if
===the 6.6 is too small since the orginal engine was 8hp. Hopefully I
===will get at least 3kw with a 6.6. I have a small lathe and mill dril
===for making the adapter and bearing support.
===
===The generator needs to turn CW as a viewed for the engine connection
===end.
===If I use a simple belt drive, the generator would run backwards from
===its orginal setup. I can go direct couple if I hang the generator
===below the engine (not good because the outlets are on the rear of the
===generator. The engine runs CCW looking from the output shart towars
===the engine.
===
===Any suggestions would be helpful.


Have you actually checked on a replacement engine or shortblock from
Tulsa Small Engines or Small engine Warehouse? A lot of times they
have these engines for less than the price of dirt.


I have seen one ingenious individual salvage a gen set that had a
severely scored connecting rod journnal and piston. He removed the
piston and con rod, and bolted a section of the con rod on to the
crank shaft so it still had a slinger, removed giovernor and valve
train, and installed a pulley n the magneto side of the flywheel which
he drove with another common horizontal gas engine by way of a V belt.
It worked and worked fine, was a bit cumbersome when it came to moving
aorund but it provided power and all it cost him was time. He had
comtemplated making a plate with a bearing for the gen front support
but there was very little in the wya of shaft to work with an this was
his easiest way out. The internally stripped engine on this gen set
functioned mainly as a bearing support and driveline component.

The majority of all gen sets use a very short taper on the end of the
engines crank, so its not a odd ball setup.
Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wifes,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.

On 18 Jul 2004 20:52:56 -0700, (Robert Snyder)
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Learn the same lesson before trying this with firefighting pumps as
well....close-coupled, and the emgine may cost _more_ than the pump,
new.

I have seen where people have converted old motors into generators. I
was thinking that would be a fun project and if I started with an old
generator should be even better.

I picked up (bought) a 4200W Coleman Generator with bag motor (piston
through the block). I thought the generator and engine were seperate
so I could add a different engine with maybe a coupling change. Not
so.

After getting the unit home and disassembling, I discovered the rear
engine bearing (the crackshaft extents into the generator armature)

Don't know where you are, but check out
princess auto in Canada - www.princessauto.com
they have some Coleman generator engines as surplus in their monthly flier
this month.

May be worth it to have it shipped/picked up - IIRC $350 CDN for 11hp

Tom


(Robert Snyder) wrote in message . com...
I have seen where people have converted old motors into generators. I
was thinking that would be a fun project and if I started with an old
generator should be even better.

I picked up (bought) a 4200W Coleman Generator with bag motor (piston
through the block). I thought the generator and engine were seperate
so I could add a different engine with maybe a coupling change. Not
so.

After getting the unit home and disassembling, I discovered the rear
engine bearing (the crackshaft extents into the generator armature)
was also the generator front bearing support. So after removing the
engine the generator has no front bearing.

So far I have the cost of the unit plus 3 hours time invested.

The cost to replace the engine would be too high. I could probably
buy a new generator for not much difference.

I am considering making an armature shaft extension and adding a new
bearing and support. I have Sears 6.6HP lawnmower engine to drive the
generator. This could be via belt or direct connection. Not sure if
the 6.6 is too small since the orginal engine was 8hp. Hopefully I
will get at least 3kw with a 6.6. I have a small lathe and mill dril
for making the adapter and bearing support.

The generator needs to turn CW as a viewed for the engine connection
end.
If I use a simple belt drive, the generator would run backwards from
its orginal setup. I can go direct couple if I hang the generator
below the engine (not good because the outlets are on the rear of the
generator. The engine runs CCW looking from the output shart towars
the engine.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

I checked princessauto.comm and the engine looks very good. I am
concerned it would not be an exact match for proper fitup.

I am going the route of a seperate engine and will be making a new
shaft with bearing support. I can then add an enigne with belt drive.

I have seen an example on
http://www.qsl.net/ns8o/Induction_Generator.html.

I am not sure if you can drive a generator opposite. The orignal
setup rotated the generator CW when direct coupled. If I go the the
belt drive, with the generator up,the generator would rotate CCW. I
could put the generator down and get CW if needed.

Bob




(surftom) wrote in message . com...
Don't know where you are, but check out
princess auto in Canada - www.princessauto.com
they have some Coleman generator engines as surplus in their monthly flier
this month.

May be worth it to have it shipped/picked up - IIRC $350 CDN for 11hp

Tom


(Robert Snyder) wrote in message . com...
I have seen where people have converted old motors into generators. I
was thinking that would be a fun project and if I started with an old
generator should be even better.

I picked up (bought) a 4200W Coleman Generator with bag motor (piston
through the block). I thought the generator and engine were seperate
so I could add a different engine with maybe a coupling change. Not
so.

After getting the unit home and disassembling, I discovered the rear
engine bearing (the crackshaft extents into the generator armature)
was also the generator front bearing support. So after removing the
engine the generator has no front bearing.

So far I have the cost of the unit plus 3 hours time invested.

The cost to replace the engine would be too high. I could probably
buy a new generator for not much difference.

I am considering making an armature shaft extension and adding a new
bearing and support. I have Sears 6.6HP lawnmower engine to drive the
generator. This could be via belt or direct connection. Not sure if
the 6.6 is too small since the orginal engine was 8hp. Hopefully I
will get at least 3kw with a 6.6. I have a small lathe and mill dril
for making the adapter and bearing support.

The generator needs to turn CW as a viewed for the engine connection
end.
If I use a simple belt drive, the generator would run backwards from
its orginal setup. I can go direct couple if I hang the generator
below the engine (not good because the outlets are on the rear of the
generator. The engine runs CCW looking from the output shart towars
the engine.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

I checked princessauto.comm and the engine looks very good. I am
concerned it would not be an exact match for proper fitup.

I am going the route of a seperate engine and will be making a new
shaft with bearing support. I can then add an enigne with belt drive.

I have seen an example on
http://www.qsl.net/ns8o/Induction_Generator.html.

I am not sure if you can drive a generator opposite. The orignal
setup rotated the generator CW when direct coupled. If I go the the
belt drive, with the generator up,the generator would rotate CCW. I
could put the generator down and get CW if needed.

Bob




(surftom) wrote in message . com...
Don't know where you are, but check out
princess auto in Canada - www.princessauto.com
they have some Coleman generator engines as surplus in their monthly flier
this month.

May be worth it to have it shipped/picked up - IIRC $350 CDN for 11hp

Tom


(Robert Snyder) wrote in message . com...
I have seen where people have converted old motors into generators. I
was thinking that would be a fun project and if I started with an old
generator should be even better.

I picked up (bought) a 4200W Coleman Generator with bag motor (piston
through the block). I thought the generator and engine were seperate
so I could add a different engine with maybe a coupling change. Not
so.

After getting the unit home and disassembling, I discovered the rear
engine bearing (the crackshaft extents into the generator armature)
was also the generator front bearing support. So after removing the
engine the generator has no front bearing.

So far I have the cost of the unit plus 3 hours time invested.

The cost to replace the engine would be too high. I could probably
buy a new generator for not much difference.

I am considering making an armature shaft extension and adding a new
bearing and support. I have Sears 6.6HP lawnmower engine to drive the
generator. This could be via belt or direct connection. Not sure if
the 6.6 is too small since the orginal engine was 8hp. Hopefully I
will get at least 3kw with a 6.6. I have a small lathe and mill dril
for making the adapter and bearing support.

The generator needs to turn CW as a viewed for the engine connection
end.
If I use a simple belt drive, the generator would run backwards from
its orginal setup. I can go direct couple if I hang the generator
below the engine (not good because the outlets are on the rear of the
generator. The engine runs CCW looking from the output shart towars
the engine.

Any suggestions would be helpful.
Don't know if the original crankshaft is still okay? You stated that
the block was shot and that you wouldn't be able to use it for
support, but what about cutting off the crank a short distance from
the gen face, then installing a bearing plate for support, and use
like a lovejoy coupling from your new engine shaft to the remaining
part of the crankshaft from your old engine. This would still keep it
fairly close coupled.
Ken.

Bob -

regarding :
Capacitor: 200uf 330vac. This was made by paralleling 4 capacitors that were 65uf, 35uf, 50uf and 50uf. All of these were rated at
330vac or better. All test results are from this capacitor set. (NOTE: The final version of this generator has 225uf of capacitance.)

From the web - remember that series caps do not add - 1/ct = 1/c1 + 1/c2 + 1/c3 + 1/c4
Quick rule of thumb - smaller than the smallest.

Best Regards,
Martin

Robert Snyder wrote:

I checked princessauto.comm and the engine looks very good. I am
concerned it would not be an exact match for proper fitup.

I am going the route of a seperate engine and will be making a new
shaft with bearing support. I can then add an enigne with belt drive.

I have seen an example on
http://www.qsl.net/ns8o/Induction_Generator.html.

I am not sure if you can drive a generator opposite. The orignal
setup rotated the generator CW when direct coupled. If I go the the
belt drive, with the generator up,the generator would rotate CCW. I
could put the generator down and get CW if needed.

Bob




(surftom) wrote in message . com...

Don't know where you are, but check out
princess auto in Canada - www.princessauto.com
they have some Coleman generator engines as surplus in their monthly flier
this month.

May be worth it to have it shipped/picked up - IIRC $350 CDN for 11hp

Tom


(Robert Snyder) wrote in message . com...

I have seen where people have converted old motors into generators. I
was thinking that would be a fun project and if I started with an old
generator should be even better.

I picked up (bought) a 4200W Coleman Generator with bag motor (piston
through the block). I thought the generator and engine were seperate
so I could add a different engine with maybe a coupling change. Not
so.

After getting the unit home and disassembling, I discovered the rear
engine bearing (the crackshaft extents into the generator armature)
was also the generator front bearing support. So after removing the
engine the generator has no front bearing.

So far I have the cost of the unit plus 3 hours time invested.

The cost to replace the engine would be too high. I could probably
buy a new generator for not much difference.

I am considering making an armature shaft extension and adding a new
bearing and support. I have Sears 6.6HP lawnmower engine to drive the
generator. This could be via belt or direct connection. Not sure if
the 6.6 is too small since the orginal engine was 8hp. Hopefully I
will get at least 3kw with a 6.6. I have a small lathe and mill dril
for making the adapter and bearing support.

The generator needs to turn CW as a viewed for the engine connection
end.
If I use a simple belt drive, the generator would run backwards from
its orginal setup. I can go direct couple if I hang the generator
below the engine (not good because the outlets are on the rear of the
generator. The engine runs CCW looking from the output shart towars
the engine.

Any suggestions would be helpful.


--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 01:34:28 GMT, (Ken
Sterling) wrote:

I checked princessauto.comm and the engine looks very good. I am
concerned it would not be an exact match for proper fitup.

I am going the route of a seperate engine and will be making a new
shaft with bearing support. I can then add an enigne with belt drive.

I have seen an example on
http://www.qsl.net/ns8o/Induction_Generator.html.

I am not sure if you can drive a generator opposite. The orignal
setup rotated the generator CW when direct coupled. If I go the the
belt drive, with the generator up,the generator would rotate CCW. I
could put the generator down and get CW if needed.

Robert: There are times when resourcefulness and creative engineering
can save you a lot of money - and trust me on this Bubbie ;-) this is
NOT one of those times.

If you are driving a generator and need the output to be fairly
stable at 60 Hz, you will need an engine with a tight governor control
on it. The small gasoline motors made for generator applications have
the flyweight governors needed to hold 3600 RPM on the nose already
built into the crankcase, and the throttle linkage pre-engineered and
factory installed - and regular lawnmower engines only have an
air-vane governor in the cooling air behind the flywheel, providing
very rough speed control that will surge and hunt all over the place.
And the output voltage is going to surge and dip like crazy along with
the engine, making the power useless for anything halfway sensitive.

If you use a general purpose engine, you will need to buy a separate
flyweight governor or an electronic governor system, and then devise a
decent throttle linkage for them. Both most likely to turn out much
more expensive and a lot more work than just finding or buying the
right engine in the first place.

I had to buy a replacement flyweight governor for my old 10KW Signal
Corps generator, and that was $150+ 15 years ago. They haven't gotten
any cheaper. And that was for a flathead 'MB' Jeep engine that had a
V-belt pulley to drive the governor already - most small Briggs
engines have no access to the crank nose for a pulley, they put the
recoil starter there.

Don't know if the original crankshaft is still okay? You stated that
the block was shot and that you wouldn't be able to use it for
support, but what about cutting off the crank a short distance from
the gen face, then installing a bearing plate for support, and use
like a lovejoy coupling from your new engine shaft to the remaining
part of the crankshaft from your old engine. This would still keep it
fairly close coupled.
Ken.

That probably won't work either. The engine rear bearing is either
ball bearing or sleeve bearing, and is designed to be running in an
oil bath and part of a pair to handle thrust loads. And it certainly
wont like overhung (pulley driven) loads.

Save yourself a whole lot of grief. Go get the right engine, with
the right governor and the right output shaft size and taper, and
close couple it to the existing generator. And it's DONE.

-- Bruce --
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

Take the tapered crank out of the engine and cut it off... leave all
the shaft that you can... Now cut off the back face plate off the
engine... Slide the crank back in the gen. and bolt the face plate
back onto the gen. Now you got a gen. with a side shaft... Works
great...

Update-

My project is proceeding at a snails pace do to it being summer.
However, I have made the replacement shaft made except for the final
pulley end diameter. Also, I made a bearing holder (bearing is a 20mm
ID) and have the bearing installed.

I stopped by a motor shop in town and talked with the owner. He said
my generator being an older brush type should work either direction.
He also told me he doesn't like the direct drive engine generator and
was interested in how the project comes out. My first test was a
simple spin by hand and the output voltage could be detected in either
direction. I next tested by connecting the generator to a small 1750
rpm motor. The generator output showed about 60+ volts ac at the 120
plug and 120+ volts ac on the 220 volt. Once I get it up to full
speed it should be good to go. These 1750 rpm tests were CCW which is
opposite of the original rotation.

I am planning on 3/4" diameter for the generator pulley shaft. I am
checking on avaiable pulley sizes first.

For the frame to hold the generator and engine I am thinking of some
combination of light angle and bar (perhaps some plywood) I want to
keep the weight down. I have used plywood on some other motor mounting
projects and it seems to be fine for light duty ie wood bandsaw 3/4
motor. I made a base for an air compressor motor using angle and plate
and it is heavy. I may look for some 10 gauge sheet and light 2"
angle. Any votes for plywood?


Bob




Old Nick wrote in message . ..
On 18 Jul 2004 20:52:56 -0700, (Robert Snyder)
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Learn the same lesson before trying this with firefighting pumps as
well....close-coupled, and the emgine may cost _more_ than the pump,
new.

I have seen where people have converted old motors into generators. I
was thinking that would be a fun project and if I started with an old
generator should be even better.

I picked up (bought) a 4200W Coleman Generator with bag motor (piston
through the block). I thought the generator and engine were seperate
so I could add a different engine with maybe a coupling change. Not
so.

After getting the unit home and disassembling, I discovered the rear
engine bearing (the crackshaft extents into the generator armature)

Before you get committed to reverse the direction you might want to look
carefully at the brush holders to be sure they do not depend on the brush
drag to properly position the brushes as some do.
Don Young
"Robert Snyder" wrote in message
om...
Update-

My project is proceeding at a snails pace do to it being summer.
However, I have made the replacement shaft made except for the final
pulley end diameter. Also, I made a bearing holder (bearing is a 20mm
ID) and have the bearing installed.

I stopped by a motor shop in town and talked with the owner. He said
my generator being an older brush type should work either direction.
He also told me he doesn't like the direct drive engine generator and
was interested in how the project comes out. My first test was a
simple spin by hand and the output voltage could be detected in either
direction. I next tested by connecting the generator to a small 1750
rpm motor. The generator output showed about 60+ volts ac at the 120
plug and 120+ volts ac on the 220 volt. Once I get it up to full
speed it should be good to go. These 1750 rpm tests were CCW which is
opposite of the original rotation.

I am planning on 3/4" diameter for the generator pulley shaft. I am
checking on avaiable pulley sizes first.

For the frame to hold the generator and engine I am thinking of some
combination of light angle and bar (perhaps some plywood) I want to
keep the weight down. I have used plywood on some other motor mounting
projects and it seems to be fine for light duty ie wood bandsaw 3/4
motor. I made a base for an air compressor motor using angle and plate
and it is heavy. I may look for some 10 gauge sheet and light 2"
angle. Any votes for plywood?


Bob




Old Nick wrote in message
. ..
On 18 Jul 2004 20:52:56 -0700, (Robert Snyder)
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Learn the same lesson before trying this with firefighting pumps as
well....close-coupled, and the emgine may cost _more_ than the pump,
new.

I have seen where people have converted old motors into generators. I
was thinking that would be a fun project and if I started with an old
generator should be even better.

I picked up (bought) a 4200W Coleman Generator with bag motor (piston
through the block). I thought the generator and engine were seperate
so I could add a different engine with maybe a coupling change. Not
so.

After getting the unit home and disassembling, I discovered the rear
engine bearing (the crackshaft extents into the generator armature)

Update -

I got the generator and engine working together.

I am using an old Toro engine with a standard aluminum flywheel and an
external flywheel (metal disc about 9" od x 1.4 inch thick) The
generator inertia really adds alot.

The engine pulley is 4.5 inch and the generator has a 4"

First run - about an hour of testing probably about 20 minutes
running.

I let the engine warm up and adjusted the engine speed with a 1500
watt heater connected to give 120 volt. I was able to start a 3/4HP
motor with the 1500 watt heater running. I made some adjustments with
difffernt hookups to see what works the best. I noticed if I run the
heater at 750 watt and set the volatge to 120v the engine seems to
hold better when load is added. The worst volatge drop observed was
setting the no load engine speed to produce 120 v and then starting
the 3/4 hp motor.

I am working to improve the engine and generator mount. The setup is
with a belt drive and I need more adjustment.

Any simple tips on how to improve speed control? I may experiment with
a lower watt base load.

This has been a fun project. I should be able to run the house water
pump during a power outage and a few items like lights and
refrigerator.

If anyone has an old Coleman generator with the orignal engine I would
be interested in what type of voltage swing occurs.

Thanks,

Bob


"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in message m...
Bob -

regarding :
Capacitor: 200uf 330vac. This was made by paralleling 4 capacitors that were 65uf, 35uf, 50uf and 50uf. All of these were rated at
330vac or better. All test results are from this capacitor set. (NOTE: The final version of this generator has 225uf of capacitance.)

From the web - remember that series caps do not add - 1/ct = 1/c1 + 1/c2 + 1/c3 + 1/c4
Quick rule of thumb - smaller than the smallest.

Best Regards,
Martin

Robert Snyder wrote:

I checked princessauto.comm and the engine looks very good. I am
concerned it would not be an exact match for proper fitup.

I am going the route of a seperate engine and will be making a new
shaft with bearing support. I can then add an enigne with belt drive.

I have seen an example on
http://www.qsl.net/ns8o/Induction_Generator.html.

I am not sure if you can drive a generator opposite. The orignal
setup rotated the generator CW when direct coupled. If I go the the
belt drive, with the generator up,the generator would rotate CCW. I
could put the generator down and get CW if needed.

Bob




(surftom) wrote in message . com...

Don't know where you are, but check out
princess auto in Canada - www.princessauto.com
they have some Coleman generator engines as surplus in their monthly flier
this month.

May be worth it to have it shipped/picked up - IIRC $350 CDN for 11hp

Tom


(Robert Snyder) wrote in message . com...

I have seen where people have converted old motors into generators. I
was thinking that would be a fun project and if I started with an old
generator should be even better.

I picked up (bought) a 4200W Coleman Generator with bag motor (piston
through the block). I thought the generator and engine were seperate
so I could add a different engine with maybe a coupling change. Not
so.

After getting the unit home and disassembling, I discovered the rear
engine bearing (the crackshaft extents into the generator armature)
was also the generator front bearing support. So after removing the
engine the generator has no front bearing.

So far I have the cost of the unit plus 3 hours time invested.

The cost to replace the engine would be too high. I could probably
buy a new generator for not much difference.

I am considering making an armature shaft extension and adding a new
bearing and support. I have Sears 6.6HP lawnmower engine to drive the
generator. This could be via belt or direct connection. Not sure if
the 6.6 is too small since the orginal engine was 8hp. Hopefully I
will get at least 3kw with a 6.6. I have a small lathe and mill dril
for making the adapter and bearing support.

The generator needs to turn CW as a viewed for the engine connection
end.
If I use a simple belt drive, the generator would run backwards from
its orginal setup. I can go direct couple if I hang the generator
below the engine (not good because the outlets are on the rear of the
generator. The engine runs CCW looking from the output shart towars
the engine.

Any suggestions would be helpful.