On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 01:34:28 GMT, (Ken
Sterling) wrote:

I checked princessauto.comm and the engine looks very good. I am
concerned it would not be an exact match for proper fitup.

I am going the route of a seperate engine and will be making a new
shaft with bearing support. I can then add an enigne with belt drive.

I have seen an example on
http://www.qsl.net/ns8o/Induction_Generator.html.

I am not sure if you can drive a generator opposite. The orignal
setup rotated the generator CW when direct coupled. If I go the the
belt drive, with the generator up,the generator would rotate CCW. I
could put the generator down and get CW if needed.

Robert: There are times when resourcefulness and creative engineering
can save you a lot of money - and trust me on this Bubbie ;-) this is
NOT one of those times.

If you are driving a generator and need the output to be fairly
stable at 60 Hz, you will need an engine with a tight governor control
on it. The small gasoline motors made for generator applications have
the flyweight governors needed to hold 3600 RPM on the nose already
built into the crankcase, and the throttle linkage pre-engineered and
factory installed - and regular lawnmower engines only have an
air-vane governor in the cooling air behind the flywheel, providing
very rough speed control that will surge and hunt all over the place.
And the output voltage is going to surge and dip like crazy along with
the engine, making the power useless for anything halfway sensitive.

If you use a general purpose engine, you will need to buy a separate
flyweight governor or an electronic governor system, and then devise a
decent throttle linkage for them. Both most likely to turn out much
more expensive and a lot more work than just finding or buying the
right engine in the first place.

I had to buy a replacement flyweight governor for my old 10KW Signal
Corps generator, and that was $150+ 15 years ago. They haven't gotten
any cheaper. And that was for a flathead 'MB' Jeep engine that had a
V-belt pulley to drive the governor already - most small Briggs
engines have no access to the crank nose for a pulley, they put the
recoil starter there.

Don't know if the original crankshaft is still okay? You stated that
the block was shot and that you wouldn't be able to use it for
support, but what about cutting off the crank a short distance from
the gen face, then installing a bearing plate for support, and use
like a lovejoy coupling from your new engine shaft to the remaining
part of the crankshaft from your old engine. This would still keep it
fairly close coupled.
Ken.

That probably won't work either. The engine rear bearing is either
ball bearing or sleeve bearing, and is designed to be running in an
oil bath and part of a pair to handle thrust loads. And it certainly
wont like overhung (pulley driven) loads.

Save yourself a whole lot of grief. Go get the right engine, with
the right governor and the right output shaft size and taper, and
close couple it to the existing generator. And it's DONE.

-- Bruce --
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.