OK..... thought experiment

You are looking at buying a river camp.

Camp itself is pretty rough on side but structure is
sound

Instead of doing the usual remodeling inside....adding
more wire runs.... lights ...etc

What abt building internal 'skeleton" INSIDE the room
such that you could hang lights form it..... hang
suspended porch swings...... basically anything you'd
like

Can this be done?

If yes.... what could one use for the "skeleton" that
was strong enough to support weight but also easily
disassembled and moved in case of flood?

I'm posting here cause someone told me this newsgroup
might be able to suggest ideas?

Threaded plumbing and fittings: T's, elbows, etc. 1/2" or less for
lighting, 1" + for load bearing stuff.
Gets pricey after a while, tho.
Man, did I cry when I realized what that pipe rack made out of plumbing
fittings really cost me.... wow....
If you had a welder, you could limit the plumbing to dis-assemble-able
portions, and weld the rest in much cheaper tubing, w/ minimal fittings.

Might could do w/ aircraft/steel cable/turnbuckles for the lighting, iffin
you had solid supports to attach to.
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
wrote in message
...
OK..... thought experiment

You are looking at buying a river camp.

Camp itself is pretty rough on side but structure is
sound

Instead of doing the usual remodeling inside....adding
more wire runs.... lights ...etc

What abt building internal 'skeleton" INSIDE the room
such that you could hang lights form it..... hang
suspended porch swings...... basically anything you'd
like

Can this be done?

If yes.... what could one use for the "skeleton" that
was strong enough to support weight but also easily
disassembled and moved in case of flood?

I'm posting here cause someone told me this newsgroup
might be able to suggest ideas?

"Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

Might could do w/ aircraft/steel cable/turnbuckles for the lighting, iffin
you had solid supports to attach to.

Yep.... good idea

Then I could move everything real easy huh

Brian Lawson wrote:

You might consider using a bunch of heavy duty knock-together shelving
units. The kind with key-holes and 1/4 pins. Put up two and hang
hard-board or better yet peg-board between them, and you got lots of
strength, stability, and design options, and hanging options. Get
them all the same, and you can stack them from floor to ceiling to
create "rooms". heck, you cam make bunk beds from them too! I don't
think I'd hang a hinged door from them, but a pocket/sliding type of
light-weight material would be fine.

Yep that might work

And be very cheap as well

Except those shelving units are not nec. cheap.
But you can get that kind of angle iron, called punched angle iron, and
bolt/string that together.
Pegboard is basically masonite, and you can buy solid sheets of masonite, as
well.
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
wrote in message
...
Brian Lawson wrote:

You might consider using a bunch of heavy duty knock-together shelving
units. The kind with key-holes and 1/4 pins. Put up two and hang
hard-board or better yet peg-board between them, and you got lots of
strength, stability, and design options, and hanging options. Get
them all the same, and you can stack them from floor to ceiling to
create "rooms". heck, you cam make bunk beds from them too! I don't
think I'd hang a hinged door from them, but a pocket/sliding type of
light-weight material would be fine.

Yep that might work

And be very cheap as well

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
Except those shelving units are not nec. cheap.
But you can get that kind of angle iron, called punched angle iron,
and bolt/string that together.
Pegboard is basically masonite, and you can buy solid sheets of
masonite, as well.

Yeah PV but can you imagine drilling all those f'ing holes?
LOL
I guess it wouldn't be so bad if you only put in the ones you needed at the
time.


--
John R. Carroll
Machining Solution Software, Inc.
Los Angeles San Francisco
www.machiningsolution.com

John R. Carroll wrote:
Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
Except those shelving units are not nec. cheap.

Gosh, used pallet racks go pretty cheap around here.
Not much more than the scrap value from what I've seen.

"Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

Except those shelving units are not nec. cheap.

Really?

I've seen light weight metal shelving not that
expensive

Cheapness is in the eye of the beholder.
Actually, you can find these shelving units often scrapped in junkyards.
The punched grey stuff, w/ sheet metal shelves, about 12 or 18" by 36", are
at least $80 a "unit", new--a few years ago here in Brooklyn, NY.
Scrapped, they ought to be near-pennies.

Also, apropos of JR Carroll's usual perspicacity, you don't need punched
angle iron either, iffin yer willing to drill the attaching holes yerself in
regular angle iron, also available in scrap yards--and from all those bed
frames you see thrown out in yer local ghetto. With wheels!
Must from the regular evictions'n'****.
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
wrote in message
...
"Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

Except those shelving units are not nec. cheap.

Really?

I've seen light weight metal shelving not that
expensive

"Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

Cheapness is in the eye of the beholder.

Agree

What I'm looking for is kind of a poor mans adult
"erector set"

Someone else suggested using Unit strut....and there
products would work just fine

But I'm trying to think out of box here and use
something modular, cheap, and scalable,

Again.... goal is to create all sizes and shapes of
internal structures in a room. Structures capable of
supporting some weight and used to hang a variety of
things from.

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:

perspicacity

I like that!
Kinda rolls of the tongue.


--
John R. Carroll
Machining Solution Software, Inc.
Los Angeles San Francisco
www.machiningsolution.com

On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 16:10:29 -0400, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

SNIP
But you can get that kind of angle iron, called punched angle iron, and
bolt/string that together.

SNIP

Hey PV,

The good stuff like that is called Dexion, although I see lots of
clones at the big stores now-a-days.

And somebody mentioned Uni-strut. Way too expensive, especially if
you intend to use their assembly hardware. Although, with the proper
cap pieces slid on/in, it can be used in some cases as duct, but the
pre-punched stuff is really big bucks.

My suggestion about the "key-hole" shelving was to use the good stuff,
rated for at least 300 pounds per shelf. The light -weight economy
stuff is great AS SHELVING if you already have something to fasten it
to, to keep it upright and steady plus an additional wood or
something as a "liner" to top those paper-thin shelves with.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Brian Lawson wrote:

The good stuff like that is called Dexion, although I see lots of
clones at the big stores now-a-days.

I will check into Dexion

And somebody mentioned Uni-strut. Way too expensive, especially if
you intend to use their assembly hardware. Although, with the proper
cap pieces slid on/in, it can be used in some cases as duct, but the
pre-punched stuff is really big bucks.

Point taken on Unistrut being way too expensive

My suggestion about the "key-hole" shelving was to use the good stuff,
rated for at least 300 pounds per shelf. The light -weight economy
stuff is great AS SHELVING if you already have something to fasten it
to, to keep it upright and steady plus an additional wood or
something as a "liner" to top those paper-thin shelves with.

Understand

Thanks!

How about using steel studs like they use in commercial buildouts these
days? They're mass produced from folded sheet steel so they're cheap,
they pin together and they already have the holes for wiring runs in
them. Build the internal frame, get everything working and then, if you
get tired of the industrial look, you can put up drywall on the inside
where you want / need it.

Jim

Jim McGill wrote:

How about using steel studs like they use in commercial buildouts these
days? They're mass produced from folded sheet steel so they're cheap,
they pin together and they already have the holes for wiring runs in
them. Build the internal frame, get everything working and then, if you
get tired of the industrial look, you can put up drywall on the inside
where you want / need it.

Jim


Good idea!

Again.... this is just a thought experiment at the
moment

It may be something I think abt using for doing a
business in an older building tho

Jim McGill wrote:

How about using steel studs like they use in commercial buildouts these
days? They're mass produced from folded sheet steel so they're cheap,
they pin together and they already have the holes for wiring runs in
them. B

They are fairly light as well, correct?

One man could handle them?

On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 11:58:37 -0500, wrote:
Jim McGill wrote:

How about using steel studs like they use in commercial buildouts these
days? They're mass produced from folded sheet steel so they're cheap,
they pin together and they already have the holes for wiring runs in
them. B

They are fairly light as well, correct?
One man could handle them?

Extremely light, and not a lot of resistance to twisting. They need to
be in a fairly well self-supporting system to be structural. I'd go
with the pipe system idea myself.

Dave Hinz wrote:

On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 11:58:37 -0500, wrote:
Jim McGill wrote:

How about using steel studs like they use in commercial buildouts these
days? They're mass produced from folded sheet steel so they're cheap,
they pin together and they already have the holes for wiring runs in
them. B

They are fairly light as well, correct?
One man could handle them?

Extremely light, and not a lot of resistance to twisting. They need to
be in a fairly well self-supporting system to be structural. I'd go
with the pipe system idea myself.

I built the walls in my hangar with steel studs.

The screws can be a bit of a challenge to start - at first -
because the flanges flex a bit under pressure.

There are two "sizes" - thickness of metal - interior
and exterior.

But it's the sweetest setup for working alone.

If you want to do wall "sections", lay them out on the
floor where a ladder isn't necessary.

Then stick the sections together as desired...

Someday I hope I'll build my new house this way.

Steel shell, steel roof, steel stud interior for dry wall,
stone, steel and and glass exterior.

Dave Hinz wrote:

Extremely light, and not a lot of resistance to twisting.

But what if you construct a "box" with them? A box
big enough to create a skeleton just inside the room

Wont spreading the stress over the structure work?

In article ,
Richard Lamb wrote:

Dave Hinz wrote:

On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 11:58:37 -0500, wrote:
Jim McGill wrote:

How about using steel studs like they use in commercial buildouts these
days? They're mass produced from folded sheet steel so they're cheap,
they pin together and they already have the holes for wiring runs in
them. B

They are fairly light as well, correct?
One man could handle them?

Extremely light, and not a lot of resistance to twisting. They need to
be in a fairly well self-supporting system to be structural. I'd go
with the pipe system idea myself.

I built the walls in my hangar with steel studs.

The screws can be a bit of a challenge to start - at first -
because the flanges flex a bit under pressure.

There are two "sizes" - thickness of metal - interior
and exterior.

But it's the sweetest setup for working alone.

If you want to do wall "sections", lay them out on the
floor where a ladder isn't necessary.

Then stick the sections together as desired...

Someday I hope I'll build my new house this way.

A friend has this. The problem is that it's hard to attach anything
heavy to a wall if it wasn't planned for from the start, because sheet
metal screws just don't compare to a #14 screw into a wooden stud.

Joe Gwinn

Steel shell, steel roof, steel stud interior for dry wall,
stone, steel and and glass exterior.