Okay, I'll start off with a couple or three of my favorites.

When I open a new gallon of paint, I take a drywall screw and punch a hole
about every inch around the trough where the lid fits. This helps allow
paint that gets in the trough to flow back into the can. (I learned this
one the hard way one time when I put the lid on and smacked it with a
hammer........ SPLUT! )

When I DO put the lid on and smack it with a hammer, I use a rubber mallet,
or a dead blow hammer, and cover it with a rag to keep the stuff from flying
directly into my eyes every time. It should be seated, but doesn't require
a beating.

I use those cheap paper paint filters, but get the coarse ones. When done,
I toss them onto the ground and fill them with dirt. In a few days, they
dispose in one piece.

I like using Japan drier.

I like those cheap plastic pour spouts you clip onto the lip. When
finished, I just let them sit out in the sun, and the paint gets so hard it
breaks right off. I have about a dozen of them, so there's always a clean
one, or one that will clean up quickly.

Nothing works like a paint can church key. And, they have a handy beer
opener on the other end so you don't cut up your hand on those (NOT SO) easy
open beer bottle twist tops. (Don't know about you, but the same beer
tastes different in a can or in a bottle.)

Well, that's some of mine.

Any favorites of yours?

Steve

Steve B wrote:

Okay, I'll start off with a couple or three of my favorites.

Much good information snipped...

Any favorites of yours?

Get my wife to do it. Seriously, my wife
does all the painting. I'll rig the ladders,
help with cleanup, but I can't stand painting.

As an article in Electronic Design magazine
said "If the idea of moving a wall is more
intriguing than painting it, you're probably
an engineer.."

Steve

Jim Stewart wrote:

Steve B wrote:

Okay, I'll start off with a couple or three of my favorites.


Much good information snipped...

Any favorites of yours?


Get my wife to do it. Seriously, my wife
does all the painting. I'll rig the ladders,
help with cleanup, but I can't stand painting.

As an article in Electronic Design magazine
said "If the idea of moving a wall is more
intriguing than painting it, you're probably
an engineer.."

Steve



Check the line pressure *before* plugging in the spray gun?

The topic is spray painting tips, so lets talk about that. When a can of
spray paint goes empty and the tip is still working, transfer it to the
fresh can and continute to use it. Drop the unused spray tip in your tool
box. Eventually, you will develop a small cache of new tips, so when one
DOES plug up you just switch tips and go on painting.

If your spray can runs out of paint before it runs out of pressure, save it
for cleaning the tips at the end of the spray job.

When you are getting ready to use a can of spray paint, it needs to by mixed
by shaking. If you hold it under the faucet, in a stream of running hot
water while you shake it, it will work better. The heat thins the paint
and increases the can pressure. Don't put it in a pot of water on the
stove, though. A friend of mine did that, and blew the can right through
his ceiling.

Steve B wrote:

When I DO put the lid on and smack it with a hammer, I use a rubber mallet,
or a dead blow hammer, and cover it with a rag to keep the stuff from flying
directly into my eyes every time. It should be seated, but doesn't require
a beating.


Sorry to ask a stupid question, but I dont know - whats a dead blow
hammer -? - a wooden block under a normal one?.

Andrew VK3BFA.

Dead blow hammer is a hollow headed mallet. It is partially filled with
lead or steel shot. When you swing it the lead transfers into the back
half of the head. When it hits a surface the shot travels forward and
transfers its energy into the head. This stops the rebound you have with
most other mallets. It also makes it sound like your using maracas in
the shop....

http://www.thorhammer.com/deadblow.htm


--
Steve Williams

"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote in message
oups.com...

Steve B wrote:

When I DO put the lid on and smack it with a hammer, I use a rubber
mallet,
or a dead blow hammer, and cover it with a rag to keep the stuff
from flying
directly into my eyes every time. It should be seated, but doesn't
require
a beating.


Sorry to ask a stupid question, but I dont know - whats a dead blow
hammer -? - a wooden block under a normal one?.

Andrew VK3BFA.




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"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...
The topic is spray painting tips, so lets talk about that. When a can of
spray paint goes empty and the tip is still working, transfer it to the
fresh can and continute to use it. Drop the unused spray tip in your tool
box. Eventually, you will develop a small cache of new tips, so when one
DOES plug up you just switch tips and go on painting.


Never thought of that. I always try to clear it with a needle, succeeding
about 4% of the time.

Steve

"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote

Sorry to ask a stupid question, but I dont know - whats a dead blow
hammer -? - a wooden block under a normal one?.

Andrew VK3BFA.


Asking is not stupid. Acting like you know about a tool and using it
improperly is stupid.

Go to the store and ask to see one. They are just a shot filled hammer.
Good for lots of stuff when you want to whack something, but do it softly.
I use mine for special things. Like tapping on the big metal stainless
steel ring around my swimming pool filter to get it to seat on the O ring
without dinging the stainless steel. For putting paint can lids back on.
For hitting things where I don't want to leave a mark. For hitting things
that only take a little shove or whack, and a hard hit with a hard faced
hammer will probably ding something. They are great when you don't want
recoil.

Once you buy one, you will use it only occasionally, but when you do, they
are one of the sweetest specialty tools you can own. They are not
expensive, either, and come in different sizes.

Steve

On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 03:56:37 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:

The topic is spray painting tips, so lets talk about that. When a can of
spray paint goes empty and the tip is still working, transfer it to the
fresh can and continute to use it. Drop the unused spray tip in your tool
box. Eventually, you will develop a small cache of new tips, so when one
DOES plug up you just switch tips and go on painting.

I save all spray nozzles and drop them into a jar with some brake
fluid. Next time I run my air system, I fish them out and blow them
clean, and store them in a pill bottle.

If your spray can runs out of paint before it runs out of pressure, save it
for cleaning the tips at the end of the spray job.

When you are getting ready to use a can of spray paint, it needs to by mixed
by shaking. If you hold it under the faucet, in a stream of running hot
water while you shake it, it will work better. The heat thins the paint
and increases the can pressure. Don't put it in a pot of water on the
stove, though. A friend of mine did that, and blew the can right through
his ceiling.


Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"Steve B" wrote in message
newsT_%f.560$QP4.399@fed1read12...

"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote

Sorry to ask a stupid question, but I dont know - whats a dead blow
hammer -? - a wooden block under a normal one?.

Andrew VK3BFA.


Asking is not stupid. Acting like you know about a tool and using it
improperly is stupid.

Go to the store and ask to see one. They are just a shot filled hammer.
Good for lots of stuff when you want to whack something, but do it softly.
I use mine for special things. Like tapping on the big metal stainless
steel ring around my swimming pool filter to get it to seat on the O ring
without dinging the stainless steel. For putting paint can lids back on.
For hitting things where I don't want to leave a mark. For hitting things
that only take a little shove or whack, and a hard hit with a hard faced
hammer will probably ding something. They are great when you don't want
recoil.

Once you buy one, you will use it only occasionally, but when you do, they
are one of the sweetest specialty tools you can own. They are not
expensive, either, and come in different sizes.

Steve

I have Ball Peen hammers which are Dead Blow also. These are great when
you need more impact/force from a smaller size hammer. Use extreme caution
if using with a punch or chisel. It causes tissue to explode with red gunk
flying all over the place. End result is sitting waiting for X-rays, and
sutures... Nice scars though :-( On these, the face is threaded internally,
and the head is filled with fine shot or powder. I use the plastic coated
ones for items like Steve mentioned that I do not want to mar.
Hippie

On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 22:45:49 -0500, "Hippie"
wrote:


"Steve B" wrote in message
newsT_%f.560$QP4.399@fed1read12...

"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote

Sorry to ask a stupid question, but I dont know - whats a dead blow
hammer -? - a wooden block under a normal one?.

Andrew VK3BFA.


Asking is not stupid. Acting like you know about a tool and using it
improperly is stupid.

Go to the store and ask to see one. They are just a shot filled hammer.
Good for lots of stuff when you want to whack something, but do it softly.
I use mine for special things. Like tapping on the big metal stainless
steel ring around my swimming pool filter to get it to seat on the O ring
without dinging the stainless steel. For putting paint can lids back on.
For hitting things where I don't want to leave a mark. For hitting things
that only take a little shove or whack, and a hard hit with a hard faced
hammer will probably ding something. They are great when you don't want
recoil.

Once you buy one, you will use it only occasionally, but when you do, they
are one of the sweetest specialty tools you can own. They are not
expensive, either, and come in different sizes.

Steve

I have Ball Peen hammers which are Dead Blow also. These are great when
you need more impact/force from a smaller size hammer. Use extreme caution
if using with a punch or chisel. It causes tissue to explode with red gunk
flying all over the place. End result is sitting waiting for X-rays, and
sutures... Nice scars though :-( On these, the face is threaded internally,
and the head is filled with fine shot or powder. I use the plastic coated
ones for items like Steve mentioned that I do not want to mar.
Hippie

I use a 1lb dead blow hammer to seat the work EVERYTIME in a milling
vise, before cranking it down completly.

Snug, Thump, tighten


Gunner

"I think this is because of your belief in biological Marxism.
As a genetic communist you feel that noticing behavioural
patterns relating to race would cause a conflict with your belief
in biological Marxism." Big Pete, famous Usenet Racist