Is there a company out there who makes spline adapters that are
weldable? Any other source?
I am trying to get my large hydraulic piston pump hooked up to my 283
Chevy V-8 engine's clutch disc. The pump is male splined, the clutch
is female splined, both have very different diameters. Any suggestions
on how to approach this adaptation? Am I missing anything in how I
plan on marrying these two together? Thanks in advance.

trg-s338 wrote:

Is there a company out there who makes spline adapters that are
weldable? Any other source?
I am trying to get my large hydraulic piston pump hooked up to my 283
Chevy V-8 engine's clutch disc. The pump is male splined, the clutch
is female splined, both have very different diameters. Any suggestions
on how to approach this adaptation? Am I missing anything in how I
plan on marrying these two together? Thanks in advance.

Do you mean very different like just won't fit different, or very
different like one is twice as big as the other? If your pump has a
shaft that's way bigger it may need more torque than your motor can provide.

If the clutch hole is smaller but not too much smaller could you machine
it out? I don't know if laser cutting would be precise enough for
splines or if you'd have to broach it. Broaching it would, I assume, be
a big PITA.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Posting from Google? See http://cfaj.freeshell.org/google/

trg-s338 wrote:

Is there a company out there who makes spline adapters that are
weldable? Any other source?
I am trying to get my large hydraulic piston pump hooked up to my 283
Chevy V-8 engine's clutch disc. The pump is male splined, the clutch
is female splined, both have very different diameters. Any suggestions
on how to approach this adaptation? Am I missing anything in how I
plan on marrying these two together? Thanks in advance.

You are going to have to frame up a mount of some sort for the
hydraulic pump, right?

I would consider looking for examples of the two splines that you need
and building a flexible (or not) bolt-up coupler between them. That
would allow for the option of replacing the pump with a different one if
or when it packs it in.

AFAIK there are various spline standards. The number of splines,
whether it is master splined (one spline wider than the others, doubt
that in this case) and the diameter are to be quoted when looking
through catalogs and the like.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

On 23 Mar 2006 12:03:56 -0800, "trg-s338"
wrote:

Is there a company out there who makes spline adapters that are
weldable? Any other source?
I am trying to get my large hydraulic piston pump hooked up to my 283
Chevy V-8 engine's clutch disc. The pump is male splined, the clutch
is female splined, both have very different diameters. Any suggestions
on how to approach this adaptation? Am I missing anything in how I
plan on marrying these two together? Thanks in advance.



You don't specify what application this is for, but on ag equipment
hydraulic pumps are often mounted to the nose of the crankshaft. I
would assume it would be easy to do the same on the rear end.
Go spline to roller sprocket on both ends, then marry the sprockets
together with duplex roller chain. Look at Surplus Center
or a bearing/power transmission parts house for hubs/shafts/sprockets.
for a splined hub/shaft that matches both and sprockets maybe around
40 pitch to mate, you will need to weld the sprockets to the
hub/shaft. The pump needs to be bolted to a mounting bracket.
Need a photo email me--remove the spamless.
I did this not too long ago on a NH stacker for a new pump,
the old one took a dump/seized and blew out the hubs. A lathe
mill makes it a easy deal.

ED

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Ed I like the double chain idea nver heard that, so I learned something new
today, time to pour a drink.
"ED" wrote in message
...
On 23 Mar 2006 12:03:56 -0800, "trg-s338"
wrote:

Is there a company out there who makes spline adapters that are
weldable? Any other source?
I am trying to get my large hydraulic piston pump hooked up to my 283
Chevy V-8 engine's clutch disc. The pump is male splined, the clutch
is female splined, both have very different diameters. Any suggestions
on how to approach this adaptation? Am I missing anything in how I
plan on marrying these two together? Thanks in advance.



You don't specify what application this is for, but on ag equipment
hydraulic pumps are often mounted to the nose of the crankshaft. I
would assume it would be easy to do the same on the rear end.
Go spline to roller sprocket on both ends, then marry the sprockets
together with duplex roller chain. Look at Surplus Center
or a bearing/power transmission parts house for hubs/shafts/sprockets.
for a splined hub/shaft that matches both and sprockets maybe around
40 pitch to mate, you will need to weld the sprockets to the
hub/shaft. The pump needs to be bolted to a mounting bracket.
Need a photo email me--remove the spamless.
I did this not too long ago on a NH stacker for a new pump,
the old one took a dump/seized and blew out the hubs. A lathe
mill makes it a easy deal.

ED

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Newsgroups
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The application is a homebuilt skid steer, therefore there is
flexibilty of design. If I understood you right, the pump and engine
shafts would be parallel/side by side linked together with the roller
chain. I just thought it would be helpful to have the option of
disengaging the engine from the pump instantly via the clutch in an
emergency but perhaps it is not standard practice nor is it necessary.
How about the thought of a direct link between the crankshaft, either
from the flywheel end or the crank snout, and the pump input shaft? A
hard link or a flexible link as suggested previously? If a disengaging
mechanism is not needed, then a weldable spline adapter to a plate
bolted onto the flywheel would be feasible? I do have a small vertical
mill and lathe. I want the simplest most direct coupling in keeping
with the KISS principle if that is possible. Some pictures as you
suggest would be great! Thanks.

trg-s338 wrote:

The application is a homebuilt skid steer, therefore there is
flexibilty of design. If I understood you right, the pump and engine
shafts would be parallel/side by side linked together with the roller
chain.

No I think he is indicating the shafts are inline. The sprockets are
essentially butted together and a double row chain is wrapped fully
around them to couple them. It provides more drive torque capability
that a "regular" chain drive of equivalent size since it's full 360
degree coverage, while still allowing easy disassembly and compensation
for a small amount of misalignment.

See "Roller Chain Couplings"

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF...9&PMT4TP=*LTIP


I just thought it would be helpful to have the option of
disengaging the engine from the pump instantly via the clutch in an
emergency but perhaps it is not standard practice nor is it necessary.

Hydraulic relief valves provide your first stage of "emergency"
protection, the engine kill switch provides the second.

Note that all the bigger machines use "closed center" hydraulic systems
with variable displacement pumps and/or hydrostatic drive pumps so they
don't have the heating issues you have with in an open center system
where you constantly pump hydraulic fluid.

How about the thought of a direct link between the crankshaft, either
from the flywheel end or the crank snout, and the pump input shaft? A
hard link or a flexible link as suggested previously? If a disengaging
mechanism is not needed, then a weldable spline adapter to a plate
bolted onto the flywheel would be feasible?

You need a coupling that allows for some misalignment as you're unlikely
to get prefect alignment in a home built setup.

I do have a small vertical
mill and lathe. I want the simplest most direct coupling in keeping
with the KISS principle if that is possible. Some pictures as you
suggest would be great! Thanks.

Look at the roller chain couplings on the MSC site, if you have a store
like Tractor Supply Co. in your area they should have much of what you
need in the store to look at.

Pete C.

In article .com,
says...
Is there a company out there who makes spline adapters that are
weldable? Any other source?
I am trying to get my large hydraulic piston pump hooked up to my 283
Chevy V-8 engine's clutch disc. The pump is male splined, the clutch
is female splined, both have very different diameters. Any suggestions
on how to approach this adaptation? Am I missing anything in how I
plan on marrying these two together? Thanks in advance.



You may find what you need here...
http://catalogs.hubcityinc.com/farmrev/searchpage.html

BSF is another possible source. They make complete adapters including a
custom housing and coupling if you specify the pump and engine, but I
think they'll supply just the coupling...
http://www.bsfinc.net/

Ned Simmons

ED wrote:

On 23 Mar 2006 23:51:44 -0800, "trg-s338"
wrote:

The application is a homebuilt skid steer, therefore there is
flexibilty of design. If I understood you right, the pump and engine
shafts would be parallel/side by side linked together with the roller
chain. I just thought it would be helpful to have the option of
disengaging the engine from the pump instantly via the clutch in an
emergency but perhaps it is not standard practice nor is it necessary.
How about the thought of a direct link between the crankshaft, either
from the flywheel end or the crank snout, and the pump input shaft? A
hard link or a flexible link as suggested previously? If a disengaging
mechanism is not needed, then a weldable spline adapter to a plate
bolted onto the flywheel would be feasible? I do have a small vertical
mill and lathe. I want the simplest most direct coupling in keeping
with the KISS principle if that is possible. Some pictures as you
suggest would be great! Thanks.

Oh, for that application a clutch wouldn't be necessiary, the swash
plate is what controls the pump/machine.

Assuming he has a hydrostatic pump.

A flange bolted direct to
the flywheel with a drive shaft to the pump is one way to set things
up. Thats how JD lawn tractors are configued.

A home built unit really need a flexible coupling of some sort since
precision alignment is unlikely.


The linkage I previously wrote about is for adding a hydraulic
system to a conventional drive system, Perhaps you could look over
a Bobcat or somesuch to see how they work. For shop built machinery
old combines are a great source of parts, lots are hydrostat. Strip
one down to the running gear and go from there. Get one with a nice
6cyl diesel and a hydrostat trans..... Move over monster garage.
Worn older machines without a lot of capacity sell for cheap at
auction...A friend of mine made a heavy duty sprayer out of an old
combine 100 ft booms ect all hydro , looks like a bug but it's
actually slick.

Hydrostat is certainly the preferred way to do it. Right now we don't
know what type of pump he has. He may even have a type of pump that
requires a low pressure charge pump and if he doesn't have that he could
toast the pump in seconds. He really needs to provide more detail.

Pete C.

Sorry for the lack of information. All I know about this pump is that
it is an axial piston pump with some electronic controlled solenoid
piggybacked onto it. I am still gathering the precise detail about
this pump. There is a Sauer Sundstand nameplate on it that also says
"Electrical Displacement Control MCV104A7940." There is a small gear
pump attached to its tail with two hoses connected to it from the
control valve. That's all the data I have thus far. It will be spun
by my Chevy V-8 motor.

Indeed broaching would be a massive undertaking for me. I am looking
for a fairly simple solution. I have a small vertical mill and lathe
but no spline cutter tool. Wish I had a Shaper.

It is now crystal clear to me. That roller chain coupling is an
attractive idea, now it only I can find it splined already. Thanks for
the link!

I am certain to find these links highly useful in my construction.
Thanks a lot, I appreciate it!

trg-s338 wrote:

Indeed broaching would be a massive undertaking for me. I am looking
for a fairly simple solution. I have a small vertical mill and lathe
but no spline cutter tool. Wish I had a Shaper.

I have seen a web page describing using a lathe as a rotary shaper --
you make a tool that cuts on the end, then plunge it into the piece that
you're cutting using the main feed, while controlling the depth with the
cross feed.

It was being used to shape a round section of a crankcase with very low
precision requirements; I don't know if you could ever make it good
enough to shape splines.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Posting from Google? See http://cfaj.freeshell.org/google/

"trg-s338" wrote in message
oups.com...
The application is a homebuilt skid steer, therefore there is
flexibilty of design. If I understood you right, the pump and engine
shafts would be parallel/side by side linked together with the roller
chain. I just thought it would be helpful to have the option of
disengaging the engine from the pump instantly via the clutch in an
emergency but perhaps it is not standard practice nor is it necessary.
How about the thought of a direct link between the crankshaft, either
from the flywheel end or the crank snout, and the pump input shaft? A
hard link or a flexible link as suggested previously? If a disengaging
mechanism is not needed, then a weldable spline adapter to a plate
bolted onto the flywheel would be feasible? I do have a small vertical
mill and lathe. I want the simplest most direct coupling in keeping
with the KISS principle if that is possible. Some pictures as you
suggest would be great! Thanks.


Just how big of a skid steer are you going to make with a 283 engine? Must
be about the size of a D4 crawler.

What little bit of the smaller equipment that I have seen used a pump with
3 circuits built in to one pump.

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 15:22:30 GMT, "Pete C."
wrote:


Assuming he has a hydrostatic pump.

Rule #1 for usenet engineering--assume nothing.

A home built unit really need a flexible coupling of some sort since
precision alignment is unlikely.

A u joint would be enough


Hydrostat is certainly the preferred way to do it. Right now we don't
know what type of pump he has. He may even have a type of pump that
requires a low pressure charge pump and if he doesn't have that he could
toast the pump in seconds. He really needs to provide more detail.

A homebuilt skid steer project would be out of my league--I have
enough problems keeping the hydraulics operating on the equipment
in the yard, like the leaking mcv valve on the IHC utility
tractor--hopefully o rings will work. I can't seem to touch a
hydraulic leak/breakdown for less than 5 bills....

Pete C.


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trg-s338 wrote:

Sorry for the lack of information. All I know about this pump is that
it is an axial piston pump with some electronic controlled solenoid
piggybacked onto it. I am still gathering the precise detail about
this pump. There is a Sauer Sundstand nameplate on it that also says
"Electrical Displacement Control MCV104A7940." There is a small gear
pump attached to its tail with two hoses connected to it from the
control valve. That's all the data I have thus far. It will be spun
by my Chevy V-8 motor.

There is a very good chance that that pump requires the low pressure
charge pump I mentioned. You need to get most info on the pump before
you try to run it or you could destroy it. I have a big old Deere 500C
backhoe that has an 8 piston radial variable displacement main pump and
it relies on a smaller low pressure charge pump located in the
transmission to supply it's intake hydraulic fluid.

Another thing to keep in mind is you'll probably get better performance
with something other than a direct drive since most hydraulic pumps are
expecting to be on diesel engines that max out at 1,800 RPM and the pump
will likely max at a similar RPM. Put a suitable manual gearbox after
your engine and clutch and you'll not only have an easier time coupling
to the pump, you gain gear reduction to let the engine operate in it's
power band without overspeeding the pump.

Pete C.

ED wrote:

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 15:22:30 GMT, "Pete C."
wrote:


Assuming he has a hydrostatic pump.

Rule #1 for usenet engineering--assume nothing.

That was my point. Sounds like he has a big variable displacement main
pump for an excavator or similar. Good since it allows for a closed
center hydraulic system, but he will have to fudge the wheel drive
controls.


A home built unit really need a flexible coupling of some sort since
precision alignment is unlikely.

A u joint would be enough

Even the chain coupler should provide enough flex. I don't think a
typical home built unit will have precise enough mounting for a rigid
drive, but within a degree or two should be possible.



Hydrostat is certainly the preferred way to do it. Right now we don't
know what type of pump he has. He may even have a type of pump that
requires a low pressure charge pump and if he doesn't have that he could
toast the pump in seconds. He really needs to provide more detail.

A homebuilt skid steer project would be out of my league--I have
enough problems keeping the hydraulics operating on the equipment
in the yard, like the leaking mcv valve on the IHC utility
tractor--hopefully o rings will work. I can't seem to touch a
hydraulic leak/breakdown for less than 5 bills....


Hydraulics get expensive fast. I did a fair amount of rebuilding on my
Deere 500C and outside of the hydraulic lines everything else is big
bucks. The main pump is like $1,700 alone.

Pete C.

I've got the pump, two White Hydraulics roller stator motors, skid
steer tires and wheels, all the 3 inch double action cylinders I need
for the loader and backhoe arm, the steel frame partially welded
together. All that's missing is the directional valve bank, the
hydraulic system circuit and hook-up.

trg-s338 wrote:

I've got the pump, two White Hydraulics roller stator motors, skid
steer tires and wheels, all the 3 inch double action cylinders I need
for the loader and backhoe arm, the steel frame partially welded
together. All that's missing is the directional valve bank, the
hydraulic system circuit and hook-up.

If you plan on controlling the wheel motors with regular spool valves
like are normally used on double acting cylinders, be sure to use a size
larger than the lines you will be connecting to it. Spool valves have
pretty convoluted flow paths and add a lot of resistance / friction,
particularly when you are "feathering" the controls which will heat your
hydraulic fluid. Going a size larger will help limit the heating, but
you should still have a hydraulic oil cooler in the system. Most
commercial equipment uses hydrostatic pumps (one per wheel motor) which
provide a variable flow in both forward and reverse to drive the wheel
motors so they don't have the heating problems you'll have with spool
valves. Put a hydraulic fluid temp gauge on your dash somewhere so you
can see if you're pushing the machine too hard.

Pete C.

The hydraulic motor has a GPM flow rating of 60. I have a Husco 3
spool valve rated @ 40 GPM I am thinking about using in a closed center
configuration. Not quite matched but I think the flow might be
adequate for the speeds I intend to operate this machine at -- about 7
miles per hour max I would think. Of course I would still have to look
at the circuit closer once I figure out the specs on the Sunstrand
pump. Upon closer visual examination of the pump, I was mistaken in
stating that the two hydraulic hoses originating from the control
valves piggybacked on the pump connect to the small gear pump at the
tail. In fact, those hoses communicate with ports at the lower portion
of the piston pump close to the base. Some sort of control for the
swash plate of the piston pump I'm thinkin'. If tha'ts the case, then
the small gear pump can probably be used to run my double action
cylinders therefore simplifying the circuitry into two separate
systems, main pump for the drive in a closed center configuration as
suggested previously, and the gear pump for the cylinders in an open
center type control. Your suggestions on the sizing of the control
valves and cooling for the fluid are highly valid and appreciated, they
will be incorporated in the final design.

With reguard to the power source, depending on the GPM flow of the
pump, your point on the use of a transmission intermediate to the pump
may be necessary indeed. If the pump flows 40 GPM, a guesstimate on my
part, my engine would have output at least 80 HP at 1800 RPM roughly,
allowing for inefficiencies. I have the formula somewhere but have not
done the calculations on that yet. Can my 283 CI V-8 engine meet this
need, I'd have to just try and go at it, dyno testing is out of the
question on this low budget project. If not, I'd have to use a
transmission to obtain gear reduction.

As to the size of this skid steer project, poster Richard W. was
curious. My concept in this home built low budget skid steer assembled
with less expensive surplus equipment
is as follows:

Compact build out of structural steel, built stout. It has to be
maneuverable in my small residential yard.

4 wheel skid steer steering linking two independently controlled wheel
motors to their respective rear wheel partner via # 60 or # 80 chain
and sprocket drive. I'm still entertaining the idea of 4 wheel
steering but that complicates the steering system considerably. The
wheels are off of a Gehl skid steer, the nicest aquisition of mine thus
far as fas as value.

The loader scoop sized to carry at least 1/2 cubic yard of dirt
comfortably. That would that be, roughly 800 lbs. I would think? A
little too ambitious?

Stabilizers on the backhoe end 5' long per corner, angle of support
adjustable anteriorly and laterally at reasonable effective ranges.

Capable of digging to 5' depth using the backhoe attachment.

Weight? Who knows!

As you can see, I continue to define the parameters of this project and
establish the specifics as I go along. This is an exercise in
shadetree engineering to be used only by me at my residence in
non-mission critical applications. Of course I would like to
incorporate the best ideas I can come up with as well as constructive
contributions from people like you folks. This is a learning
experience I've been excited about for a long time and the process I've
undergone so far has already been highly rewarding to my psyche. Thank
you for your time and keep the ideas and constructive comments comming!

trg-s338 wrote:

The hydraulic motor has a GPM flow rating of 60. I have a Husco 3
spool valve rated @ 40 GPM I am thinking about using in a closed center
configuration. Not quite matched but I think the flow might be
adequate for the speeds I intend to operate this machine at -- about 7
miles per hour max I would think. Of course I would still have to look
at the circuit closer once I figure out the specs on the Sunstrand
pump. Upon closer visual examination of the pump, I was mistaken in
stating that the two hydraulic hoses originating from the control
valves piggybacked on the pump connect to the small gear pump at the
tail. In fact, those hoses communicate with ports at the lower portion
of the piston pump close to the base. Some sort of control for the
swash plate of the piston pump I'm thinkin'. If tha'ts the case, then
the small gear pump can probably be used to run my double action
cylinders therefore simplifying the circuitry into two separate
systems, main pump for the drive in a closed center configuration as
suggested previously, and the gear pump for the cylinders in an open
center type control. Your suggestions on the sizing of the control
valves and cooling for the fluid are highly valid and appreciated, they
will be incorporated in the final design.

With reguard to the power source, depending on the GPM flow of the
pump, your point on the use of a transmission intermediate to the pump
may be necessary indeed. If the pump flows 40 GPM, a guesstimate on my
part, my engine would have output at least 80 HP at 1800 RPM roughly,
allowing for inefficiencies. I have the formula somewhere but have not
done the calculations on that yet. Can my 283 CI V-8 engine meet this
need, I'd have to just try and go at it, dyno testing is out of the
question on this low budget project. If not, I'd have to use a
transmission to obtain gear reduction.

As to the size of this skid steer project, poster Richard W. was
curious. My concept in this home built low budget skid steer assembled
with less expensive surplus equipment
is as follows:

Compact build out of structural steel, built stout. It has to be
maneuverable in my small residential yard.

4 wheel skid steer steering linking two independently controlled wheel
motors to their respective rear wheel partner via # 60 or # 80 chain
and sprocket drive. I'm still entertaining the idea of 4 wheel
steering but that complicates the steering system considerably. The
wheels are off of a Gehl skid steer, the nicest aquisition of mine thus
far as fas as value.

The loader scoop sized to carry at least 1/2 cubic yard of dirt
comfortably. That would that be, roughly 800 lbs. I would think? A
little too ambitious?

Stabilizers on the backhoe end 5' long per corner, angle of support
adjustable anteriorly and laterally at reasonable effective ranges.

Capable of digging to 5' depth using the backhoe attachment.

Weight? Who knows!

As you can see, I continue to define the parameters of this project and
establish the specifics as I go along. This is an exercise in
shadetree engineering to be used only by me at my residence in
non-mission critical applications. Of course I would like to
incorporate the best ideas I can come up with as well as constructive
contributions from people like you folks. This is a learning
experience I've been excited about for a long time and the process I've
undergone so far has already been highly rewarding to my psyche. Thank
you for your time and keep the ideas and constructive comments comming!

Sounds like a fun project. Just remember that the engineering on the fly
works well on everything but hydraulic pumps. It's far too easy to
destroy an expensive pump if you're not careful.

Pete C.

On 23 Mar 2006 12:03:56 -0800, "trg-s338" wrote:

Is there a company out there who makes spline adapters that are
weldable? Any other source?
I am trying to get my large hydraulic piston pump hooked up to my 283
Chevy V-8 engine's clutch disc.

Don't Chevy make these spline adapters ? I think they're called
"transmission input shafts" - get down the scrapyard!

trg-s338 wrote:

Indeed broaching would be a massive undertaking for me. I am looking
for a fairly simple solution. I have a small vertical mill and lathe
but no spline cutter tool. Wish I had a Shaper.

Go to a bearing supply, farm supply, or industrial supply place and ask
about splined adaptors. Number of teeth and Diameter are the minimum
information you will need.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

This has been a very informative thread, lots of good input for a very
interesting project.

If I were to try to improvise an internal spline, I think I'd try to
drill a pattern of holes in a circle, that would engage the sides of
the male splines. Cutting out the center hole to leave just a slight
clearance or slip fit might suffice.
This would still be a crude sort of coupler, and may not be anywhere
near suitable for your pump application. A proper drive coupler would
probably be hardened.

There are many archived RCM posts concerning the lathe method of
broaching a keyway into the side of a hole. The lathe method would get
a little complex for trying to index the part to form splines.
Using essentially the same procedure, a vertical mill quill stroke
could be utilized with a rotary table taking care of the indexing
problem, if the mill has the capability of locking the spindle (or an
improvised lock method).

Something else to consider is whether the pump housing is designed in a
way to fully support it's input shaft. Many pump mounting applications
may be dependent upon a bearing-supported drive component. The example
of a pump coupled to a crankshaft utilizes the fully bearing-supported
crankshaft, eliminating any chances of side loads being applied to the
pump input shaft.
Similarly, pumps that mount to engine castings will be driven by a
bearing-supported drive component.

Another point I was pondering is that a 283 engine might be very
valuable nowadays to car restorers. I don't remember when production
stopped for the 283, but it might've been in the early 60's. It's
predecessor, the 265, was a fairly short-lived engine size, as I
recall.
The 283 would provide some weight, unlike a more recent engine.

I think the starter motor mounts to the bell housing on those engines
(kinda fuzzy memory at this point).. so if you're intending to use the
bell housing, you'll have a well centered hole for a fairly precise
mounting location.
If you scrounge an old transmission, I think the input shaft nosepiece
is a separate removable part that might be handy for getting your
alignment locations properly set up.

As Andy D recommended, the best adapter to the clutch hub would be the
trans input shaft. Old garages used to have lots of these laying around
to align clutch plates during repairs. You can probably locate a
precision bearing assembly to replace the original bush-type bearing
that fits in the crank end cavity.
I recall seeing many different input shafts, and the first internal
gear is about 3-4x the diameter of the shaft, so machining this larger
diameter to accept a pump coupler might not be too difficult.

I believe I've heard that a full yard of dirt is generally considered
to be 1 ton.

WB
.............

trg-s338 wrote:
Is there a company out there who makes spline adapters that are
weldable? Any other source?
I am trying to get my large hydraulic piston pump hooked up to my 283
Chevy V-8 engine's clutch disc. The pump is male splined, the clutch
is female splined, both have very different diameters. Any suggestions
on how to approach this adaptation? Am I missing anything in how I
plan on marrying these two together? Thanks in advance.

Wild Bill wrote:
This has been a very informative thread, lots of good input for a very
interesting project.

If I were to try to improvise an internal spline, I think I'd try to
drill a pattern of holes in a circle, that would engage the sides of
the male splines. Cutting out the center hole to leave just a slight
clearance or slip fit might suffice.
This would still be a crude sort of coupler, and may not be anywhere
near suitable for your pump application. A proper drive coupler would
probably be hardened.

There are many archived RCM posts concerning the lathe method of
broaching a keyway into the side of a hole. The lathe method would get
a little complex for trying to index the part to form splines.
Using essentially the same procedure, a vertical mill quill stroke
could be utilized with a rotary table taking care of the indexing
problem, if the mill has the capability of locking the spindle (or an
improvised lock method).



WB

I cut an internal spline (13) on my lathe . Printed out a pattern .
Drilled out as much as I could . Bored the center and then stroked the
lathe . Took me 8 hours and ended up with a hand full of blisters . In
the end the part worked great so I guess a winner but not something I
would do again unless I had to .
Ken Cutt

Thanks for the input you guys, the tranny input shaft idea that is.
Recalling from the hot rod days, the input shaft from a Muncie for
example enlarges from the spline to a bearing carrier diameter, may
even have a gear mounted to it. I will search for one and I'm sure I
can come up with some adaptation to a spline coupler ( found one at
surpluscenter.com ) for my pump if that becomes necessary. It has been
suggested from previous posts that because the pump varies its
displacement and therefore its output down to zero flow when there is
no load a direct coupling without the clutch disc might be the simpler
and beefier way to go. It doesn't seem too difficult conceptually to
weld a spline coupler onto a plate that bolts onto the flywheel using
the pilot bearing at the rear of the crank as alignment reference. The
trueness of this adapter/coupler would be guaranteed through lathe
work, of course. Yes, I was intending on using the bellhousing to
mount the pump onto. As you say Wild Bill, this may alleviate some of
my alignment and lateral load concerns as far as pump input shaft is
concerned. As far as the 283 Chevy is concerned, it is a standard bore
but high mileage motor that still works. It has to do for now but
someday, it may be rebuilt and used in some restoration project, or
maybe reincarnated as a 302. But thats a project for another time.

Now I have to figure out if the motor's peak torque output is close
enough to match the pump's effective operating range, around 1800 RPM
has been suggested as a rough estimate for the pump. I think most
Chevy's cammed for torque instead of max HP would tend to come in
around that range. My motor is stock and single carbureted, it should
be about right. I hope its right because if the motor bogs down, the
added complication of a transmission to gear down woud complicate the
power train and compactness of the skid steer. I guess I'll find out.
maximum