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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Fixture/Tooling Plates
With a recent addition of a mill with a PERFECT table, I now am
considering what to put on it so it stays that way. What do you prefer for a fixture/tooling plate and how do you like to prepare them? Holes? T-slots? How thick? What material? Shop made or commercial? And remember, a mill table is terrible thing to waste.... ;) Thanks for any suggestions you might have. TMT |
#2
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Fixture/Tooling Plates
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message oups.com... With a recent addition of a mill with a PERFECT table, I now am considering what to put on it so it stays that way. What do you prefer for a fixture/tooling plate and how do you like to prepare them? Holes? T-slots? How thick? What material? Shop made or commercial? And remember, a mill table is terrible thing to waste.... ;) Thanks for any suggestions you might have. TMT In my opinion, milling machines are like trucks. I bought it to do a job. I know it's going to get scratched up, and that's ok. Covers and plates just get in the way, and add to inaccuracies. The only way I'd put a plate on a mill as a permanent fixture is if the mill was only bought for one job, and it would never run anything else. |
#3
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Fixture/Tooling Plates
On Thu, 23 Mar 2006 16:00:40 GMT, Dave Lyon wrote:
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message oups.com... With a recent addition of a mill with a PERFECT table, I now am considering what to put on it so it stays that way. What do you prefer for a fixture/tooling plate and how do you like to prepare them? Holes? T-slots? How thick? What material? Shop made or commercial? And remember, a mill table is terrible thing to waste.... ;) Thanks for any suggestions you might have. TMT In my opinion, milling machines are like trucks. I bought it to do a job. I know it's going to get scratched up, and that's ok. Covers and plates just get in the way, and add to inaccuracies. The only way I'd put a plate on a mill as a permanent fixture is if the mill was only bought for one job, and it would never run anything else. I agree with the above sentiment. Unless I need a tooling plate for a specific job, I don't use them because all they do is collect oil, coolant, slime, oogies... under the plate and the once pristine table surface now has stains and possibly rust! And, every time I put it on for a new job, I wind up fly cutting the surface for flatness. If you were to take it off to clean frequently, you'd have cut your plate down PDQ. Just be a good machinist and don't mill/drill into your table! But, to answer the OP's question, I drill/tap threaded holes wherever I need them to be for the job. I drill and counter bore (as deep as possible) for 1/2-13 SHCS to hold the plate down to the table surface using standard T-nuts. Also, if you really want to leave the plate on for extended periods and are running different jobs, drill a set of tapped holes to mount your vise. Thickness depends on how much you want to lift :-) Nothing less than 1" though. Many here may gasp and disagree, but I've even drill tooling holes (by design) directly into the table surface. I pressed in a bushing and had accurate reference points/ removable stops... It's just a tool, treat it with care and respect, but use it in whatever manner needed to be most efficient, and accurate for a job. -- Skuke Reverse the domain name to send email |
#4
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Fixture/Tooling Plates
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message oups.com... With a recent addition of a mill with a PERFECT table, I now am considering what to put on it so it stays that way. Is the tabled hardened? We had mills at school made of soft cast iron, and others of the hard (not sure exactly which alloy). The ones with the hard tables virtually never got dented or scratched. I agree with the others though. A tooling plate just to prevent mistakes is like having training wheels on a bike. Learn how to use a 6" rule and you shouldn't have issues with machining/drilling the table. Regards, Robin |
#5
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Fixture/Tooling Plates
skuke wrote:
But, to answer the OP's question, I drill/tap threaded holes wherever I need them to be for the job. I drill and counter bore (as deep as possible) for 1/2-13 SHCS to hold the plate down to the table surface using standard T-nuts. And before you mount a plate that's going to stay put for a long time, hose the table down with BoeShield or equivalent longterm corrosion preventer. |
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