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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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electric motor help
hi, sorry to keep asking for help.
have a floor standing electric fan, found it, freebie on the street, didn't work (nice fan, practically brand new) took it apart (years ago), found what i thought was the problem (a small glass electronic thingy (diode or resistor or some sort) that looked to be "burned out" (at the time i thought it was a fuse red face) de-soldered it, removed it and re-soldered the wire back where the diode was. when i turned on the fan it ran backwards, i figured "someday" i'd open it back up again and give it another try (thought i must've transposed two wires) today i was like "ok, gonna throw it out" but thought first i'd give it ONE more try. now it's been so long i can't remember which wire i de-soldered. i THINK it was the wire with the white fabric covered insulation (in the photo) but can't remember. i don't think i transposed any of the wires when i de-re-soldered them. wondering if it's possible for someone to diagnose the problem by only just looking at a picture. http://www.frontiernet.net/~wwixon/fanmotor.jpg oh, and one more thing. this fan has three speeds, when i run it on the highest speed it STILL seems slow to me, seems as if it is running HALF of what "3" should be. (so, it runs backwards and i think at half speed) :-( cold outside now but i'm sure this coming summer i'm going to be KICKING myself in the ass for throwing this fan away. b.w. |
#2
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electric motor help
I think Your jumper should be from black to gray from the looks of it. The
device that failed was prob. a thermal fuse. Jim "William Wixon" wrote in message ... hi, sorry to keep asking for help. have a floor standing electric fan, found it, freebie on the street, didn't work (nice fan, practically brand new) took it apart (years ago), found what i thought was the problem (a small glass electronic thingy (diode or resistor or some sort) that looked to be "burned out" (at the time i thought it was a fuse red face) de-soldered it, removed it and re-soldered the wire back where the diode was. when i turned on the fan it ran backwards, i figured "someday" i'd open it back up again and give it another try (thought i must've transposed two wires) today i was like "ok, gonna throw it out" but thought first i'd give it ONE more try. now it's been so long i can't remember which wire i de-soldered. i THINK it was the wire with the white fabric covered insulation (in the photo) but can't remember. i don't think i transposed any of the wires when i de-re-soldered them. wondering if it's possible for someone to diagnose the problem by only just looking at a picture. http://www.frontiernet.net/~wwixon/fanmotor.jpg oh, and one more thing. this fan has three speeds, when i run it on the highest speed it STILL seems slow to me, seems as if it is running HALF of what "3" should be. (so, it runs backwards and i think at half speed) :-( cold outside now but i'm sure this coming summer i'm going to be KICKING myself in the ass for throwing this fan away. b.w. |
#3
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electric motor help
"James R. Freeman" wrote in message
... I think Your jumper should be from black to gray from the looks of it. The device that failed was prob. a thermal fuse. Jim Hey Jim, Thanks! :-) i was so anxious to get this thing FINALLY fixed i absentmindedly desoldered the jumper from the white and put it to grey and when i put it back together i got NOTHING. i was like "DANG!" but opened it back up and realized what i'd done, changed it black to grey, put it back together and it seems to be running fine now. weee!!! i'm sure i'll be thanking you big time this coming summer. thing is, now "1" is the fastest speed (thought "3" was supposed to be fastest). it's running the right direction and it seems it's also running at full speed. i took a picture (with streamer on fan) to show you(ze). i was afraid someone was going to say "you just took a picture when it was windy" so i stuck a pitchfork in the frozen ground behind it w/ a streamer to show it wasn't windy. :-) you said the device i removed was probably a thremal fuse, so, i'm assuming it would be best to not run it unattended now (which i don't do anyhow). thanks again Jim, you really made my day. practically-brand-new fan rescued from untimely demise. http://www.frontiernet.net/~wwixon/fanmotor1.jpg b.w. "William Wixon" wrote in message ... hi, sorry to keep asking for help. have a floor standing electric fan, found it, freebie on the street, -snip- |
#4
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electric motor help
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 20:47:26 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote: "James R. Freeman" wrote in message ... I think Your jumper should be from black to gray from the looks of it. The device that failed was prob. a thermal fuse. Jim Hey Jim, Thanks! :-) i was so anxious to get this thing FINALLY fixed i absentmindedly desoldered the jumper from the white and put it to grey and when i put it back together i got NOTHING. i was like "DANG!" but opened it back up and realized what i'd done, changed it black to grey, put it back together and it seems to be running fine now. weee!!! i'm sure i'll be thanking you big time this coming summer. thing is, now "1" is the fastest speed (thought "3" was supposed to be fastest). it's running the right direction and it seems it's also running at full speed. i took a picture (with streamer on fan) to show you(ze). i was afraid someone was going to say "you just took a picture when it was windy" so i stuck a pitchfork in the frozen ground behind it w/ a streamer to show it wasn't windy. :-) you said the device i removed was probably a thremal fuse, so, i'm assuming it would be best to not run it unattended now (which i don't do anyhow). thanks again Jim, you really made my day. practically-brand-new fan rescued from untimely demise. http://www.frontiernet.net/~wwixon/fanmotor1.jpg b.w. Your problem now is that when your motor fills up with lint and starts to overheat, there is no thermal cutout to turn it off before it gets to the point where it starts smouldering and blowing glowing particles along with a forced draft all over your girlfriends bikini or your slumbering body. Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
#5
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electric motor help
"Gerald Miller" wrote in message ... Your problem now is that when your motor fills up with lint and starts to overheat, there is no thermal cutout to turn it off before it gets to the point where it starts smouldering and blowing glowing particles along with a forced draft all over your girlfriends bikini or your slumbering body. Gerry :-)} London, Canada yeah, just hope that doesn't happen too soon. i usually don't leave a fan running unattended, waste of energy. but, if someone knows of what size/what kind/where i can get one of those tiny glass diode/resistor shaped thermal "fuses" maybe i could solder one back in and won't have to worry about setting my girlfriend's bikini on fire etc. b.w. flame bikini... http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...venue/8600.jpg |
#6
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electric motor help
William Wixon wrote:
"Gerald Miller" wrote: Your problem now is that when your motor fills up with lint and starts to overheat, there is no thermal cutout to turn it off before it gets to the point where it starts smouldering and blowing glowing particles along with a forced draft all over your girlfriends bikini or your slumbering body. Gerry :-)} yeah, just hope that doesn't happen too soon. i usually don't leave a fan running unattended, waste of energy. but, if someone knows of what size/what kind/where i can get one of those tiny glass diode/resistor shaped thermal "fuses" maybe i could solder one back in and won't have to worry about setting my girlfriend's bikini on fire etc. http://www.maplin.co.uk/search.aspx?...hermal%20Fuses -- Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED) ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* SPAM TRAP set in header, Use email address in sig. if you must. |
#7
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electric motor help
On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 08:03:50 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote: yeah, just hope that doesn't happen too soon. i usually don't leave a fan running unattended, waste of energy. but, if someone knows of what size/what kind/where i can get one of those tiny glass diode/resistor shaped thermal "fuses" maybe i could solder one back in and won't have to worry about setting my girlfriend's bikini on fire etc. Hi William, I don't recall if you said whether or not you still had the old one. They come in different values and you would most likely need the old one to get the proper value. Radio Shack carries some: http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...thermal%20fuse Personally I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. Just don't set it up by a gas can, tissue paper, sheer curtains... We got along pretty well for a good many years without those thermal devices in everything with a bit of common sense. Which seems to be sorely lacking nowadays... -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#8
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electric motor help
On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 08:03:50 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote: yeah, just hope that doesn't happen too soon. i usually don't leave a fan running unattended, waste of energy. but, if someone knows of what size/what kind/where i can get one of those tiny glass diode/resistor shaped thermal "fuses" maybe i could solder one back in and won't have to worry about setting my girlfriend's bikini on fire etc. b.w. flame bikini... http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...venue/8600.jpg Last time I needed one, I bought it at the local Radio Shack. Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
#9
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electric motor help
On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 08:03:50 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote: "Gerald Miller" wrote in message .. . Your problem now is that when your motor fills up with lint and starts to overheat, there is no thermal cutout to turn it off before it gets to the point where it starts smouldering and blowing glowing particles along with a forced draft all over your girlfriends bikini or your slumbering body. Gerry :-)} London, Canada yeah, just hope that doesn't happen too soon. i usually don't leave a fan running unattended, waste of energy. but, if someone knows of what size/what kind/where i can get one of those tiny glass diode/resistor shaped thermal "fuses" maybe i could solder one back in and won't have to worry about setting my girlfriend's bikini on fire etc. The trick is reading the part number on the old piece to get the rating - usually in Degrees Celsius. Or finding the manufacturer to get the right rating. Any decent appliance parts supplier has them. You can guess, but if you do guess LOW. Better to deal with a nuisance trip than flames. -- Bruce -- -- Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700 5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545 Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net. |
#10
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electric motor help
On Fri, 24 Feb 2006 04:26:02 GMT, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote: On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 08:03:50 GMT, "William Wixon" wrote: "Gerald Miller" wrote in message . .. Your problem now is that when your motor fills up with lint and starts to overheat, there is no thermal cutout to turn it off before it gets to the point where it starts smouldering and blowing glowing particles along with a forced draft all over your girlfriends bikini or your slumbering body. Gerry :-)} London, Canada Generally they are 144C units. RatShack thermal fuse # 270-1320, a 144 degree C, $1.49 part Also available from your local Chrysler dealer. Ask for a Dodge Stratus heater resistor thermal fuse. It'll cost you about 10 times as much as the "shack" part. *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com *** *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com *** |
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