How do you store your various glues?

With three different glues, I seldom have success.

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.
I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
dessicant in the refrigerator.

- Contact glue
With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.

- Elmer's woodworking glue
With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
tightened.

Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?

Thanks

TMT

Too_Many_Tools wrote:
How do you store your various glues?

With three different glues, I seldom have success.

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.
I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
dessicant in the refrigerator.

- Contact glue
With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.

- Elmer's woodworking glue
With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
tightened.

Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?

Thanks

TMT




buy smaller quantities and use it faster.

"Too_Many_Tools" wrote: (clip) How do you store your various glues? (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I have a small bottle of super glue that has been in my refrigerator for
years, and it is still usable. I have other bottles of super glue that have
been on the shelf in my shop/garage for months to years. The oldest ones
(years) are now solid. The newest (months) are A-OK. How long do yours
take to go bad?

"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
oups.com...
How do you store your various glues?

With three different glues, I seldom have success.

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.
I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
dessicant in the refrigerator.

- Contact glue
With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.

- Elmer's woodworking glue
With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
tightened.

Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?

Thanks

TMT


Elmer's has a shelf life and you can't stop the slow but steady degradation.
Near the end when it is too thick, a little water will thin it back out, but
it has lost strength at that point. The only remedy is to buy small
containers to avoid a big, half-empty, bottle on the shelf.

Buy contact cement in the aerosol can and it will last a very long time.
Several years at least. 3M makes some very good ones.

Now you know why super glue comes in such small containers.

Randy

Too_Many_Tools wrote:

How do you store your various glues?

With three different glues, I seldom have success.

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.
I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
dessicant in the refrigerator.

I don't use this often, but a bottle of the gel version seems to be just
fine after a year or so at varying temperature in the unheated shop.


- Contact glue
With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.

I use this a bit more than super glue, generally using the good
flammable version for laminate. I don't recall ever having it go bad on
me. The nonflammable and newer latex version may have different shelf
lives.


- Elmer's woodworking glue
With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
tightened.

I don't use the Elmer's wood glue, all I have used in recent years is
the Titebond II which I have excellent results with. I typically have
one of the big jugs of the stuff and use it to refill a couple of the
smaller squeeze bottles with the push pull tops. These have sat in the
shop over hot summers and cold winters and I've use it under all
temperatures without any problems.


Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?

I don't know as you seem to have particularly bad luck. Perhaps read the
container for recommended storage conditions.

Pete C.



Thanks

TMT

Too_Many_Tools wrote

How do you store your various glues?

I dont do anything special with the hot melt gun sticks, they store fine.

I dont try to store anything else, just get some more for
a particular task that the hot melt glue gun isnt suitable for.

With three different glues, I seldom have success.

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.
I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
dessicant in the refrigerator.

- Contact glue
With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.

- Elmer's woodworking glue
With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
tightened.

Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?

Thanks

TMT

And with epoxies, be sure not to mix before needed. Sorry, I couldn't
resist!

Bob Swinney
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
oups.com...
How do you store your various glues?

With three different glues, I seldom have success.

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.
I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
dessicant in the refrigerator.

- Contact glue
With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.

- Elmer's woodworking glue
With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
tightened.

Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?

Thanks

TMT

"My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant..
They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless
of the measures I take to seal 'em up. "

In this case I don't have a problem with caulks...I just wrap a piece
of tape around the open tip and put in on a shelf which is subject to
normal indoor temperatures and humidity.

TMT

Too_Many_Tools wrote:
How do you store your various glues?

With three different glues, I seldom have success.

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.
I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
dessicant in the refrigerator.

I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it
applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.

Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that,
whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet for
water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches
equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your superglue,
water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates the degradation
process possibly even more than letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if
you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in
it unless you're buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia.

So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take it
out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the working
temperature.

er
--
email not valid

"Robert Swinney" wrote: And with epoxies, be sure not to mix before
needed. Sorry, I couldn't resist!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
And I can't resist either. I ALWAYS mix my epoxy BEFORE I apply it.

Store all perishables at the...store!

Are you storing your CA anywhere your bottle of accelerator?. Do you ever
add CA to a joint after spraying accelerator near it? The accelerator vapors
that get into open CA will severely shorten its life.

-- Mike Norton

wrote in message
oups.com...

Too_Many_Tools wrote:
How do you store your various glues?

With three different glues, I seldom have success.

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.
I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
dessicant in the refrigerator.

- Contact glue
With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.

- Elmer's woodworking glue
With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
tightened.

Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?

Thanks

TMT




buy smaller quantities and use it faster.

I have found that old CA glue, though not solid, is not as good as
fresh CA. Several times I've used CA from an old container and wished
I'd have just opened a fresh one. At least for borderline applications.

Yeah, but I meant a LONG time Before. You get the picture! Read my mind,
not my test!

Bob Swinney
"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"Robert Swinney" wrote: And with epoxies, be sure not to mix before
needed. Sorry, I couldn't resist!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
And I can't resist either. I ALWAYS mix my epoxy BEFORE I apply it.

"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
ups.com...
"My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant..
They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless
of the measures I take to seal 'em up. "

In this case I don't have a problem with caulks...I just wrap a piece
of tape around the open tip and put in on a shelf which is subject to
normal indoor temperatures and humidity.


I have the same frustration with silicones and the likes. I love the
GOOP-type products, as well as high-temp silicone sealer. The stuff is
expensive and it seems I only get to use it once or twice before the whole
tube sets up. :-(

Good flying,
desmobob

Hello TMT:

I have had very little success storing the cyanoacrylate adhesives
(Krazy glue or Super Glue) that come in the tiny tubes. It hardens
after the first or second use.

The larger half-ounce or 1 oz bottles from hobby stores seem to last
much better, even at room temperature. They do have a tendency to
polymerize at the tip and the lid fills up with crud, but cutting off
the tip and using the fine tips that the hobby store has, seems to
help. I used a 1/2 oz bottle of thin CA for about six months.....it
ran out before it went bad.

Best -- Terry

The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT skiddz "AT"
adelphia "DOT" net wrote:
On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 12:16:18 -0800, Enoch Root
wrote:


I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it
applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.

Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that,
whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet
for water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches
equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your
superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates
the degradation process possibly even more than letting it sit on
the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe,
there just aint no sense in it unless you're buying the 50lb.
econopak direct from colombia.

So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take
it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the
working temperature.

Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden
than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.

That's completely mangling the physics.

What matters is that the humidity level is 100%.

The drying out effect is actually due to ice condensing out of the
air on the coldest surfaces and its that effect that drys things out.

The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote:

Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden than warm
air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.

Rod is right. There's may be less moisture in the air at that
temperature, as you say, but it'll still be absorbed.

Even more so, perhaps, if you place the glue next to the cooling fin
it'll be often cooler than the surrounding refrigerated air, and you'll
be in the same situation as when you just take it out into the ambient
air. Good to keep it in airtight plastic.

er
--
email not valid

"I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it
applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.
Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that,
whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet for

water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches
equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your superglue,

water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates the degradation

process possibly even more than letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if
you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense
in
it unless you're buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia.
So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take it
out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the working
temperature.
er"

Good point about the potential of condensation that might cause a
problem with the super glue.

I do know that I store the super glue in a closed container with
dessicant. The glue is removed from the jar, used, and replaced in the
jar again in a very short time so it is exposed to any moisture for a
very short time.

The contact cement I have seems to solidify even when there is solvent
still in the can...very curious since I thought contact cement was a
solvent evaporation process.

TMT

Rod Speed wrote:
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT skiddz "AT"
adelphia "DOT" net wrote:

On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 12:16:18 -0800, Enoch Root
wrote:



I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it
applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.

Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that,
whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet
for water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches
equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your
superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates
the degradation process possibly even more than letting it sit on
the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe,
there just aint no sense in it unless you're buying the 50lb.
econopak direct from colombia.

So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take
it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the
working temperature.


Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden
than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.


That's completely mangling the physics.

What matters is that the humidity level is 100%.

It's going to be the dew point for the air localized around the cool
object, I think. You can have a low relative humidity at the ambient
temperature, meaning a large difference between the air temp. and the
dew point, but because the air temp drops around the object you cross
the dew point and condensation occurs.

But it's been sloshing around in the back of my head for a while now, so
I may have that wrong.

er
--
email not valid

The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote:

My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant..
They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless
of the measures I take to seal 'em up.

Lee Valley Tools sells some caps for tubes that look like tiny red
condoms. They're cheap -- a few bucks for 20-25, IIRC. Squeeze a tiny
ball of caulk or whatever out of the tip (supposedly to be sure the air
is out of the tip) then put one of these jobbies on the tip and unroll
it (they're about 1.5" long). When you need the caulk again, just roll
up the cap and it's ready to go. Afterwards, the cap can be reused.

I've had open tubes of silicone caulk, latex caulk and Liquid Nails that
have been fine when opened after being stored for a year in the basement.

Tove

Enoch Root wrote
Rod Speed wrote
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT skiddz "AT"
adelphia "DOT" net wrote
Enoch Root wrote

I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage
method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.

Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider
that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a
magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its
temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment.
Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it
all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than
letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I
do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're
buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia.

So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take
it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the
working temperature.

Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden
than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.

That's completely mangling the physics.

What matters is that the humidity level is 100%.

It's going to be the dew point for the air
localized around the cool object, I think.

It should be at the dew point thruout the fridge.

You can have a low relative humidity at the ambient temperature,
meaning a large difference between the air temp. and the dew
point, but because the air temp drops around the object you
cross the dew point and condensation occurs.

Thats mangling the story too. The dew point is just the temp
at which dew occurs and is basically 100% relative humidty then.

But it's been sloshing around in the back of my
head for a while now, so I may have that wrong.

Yeah, it is rather mangled.

Rod Speed wrote:
Enoch Root wrote

Rod Speed wrote

The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT skiddz "AT"
adelphia "DOT" net wrote

Enoch Root wrote


I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage
method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.


Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider
that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a
magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its
temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment.
Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it
all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than
letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I
do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're
buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia.


So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take
it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the
working temperature.


Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden
than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.


That's completely mangling the physics.


What matters is that the humidity level is 100%.


It's going to be the dew point for the air
localized around the cool object, I think.


It should be at the dew point thruout the fridge.

You seem to still be thinking inside the box. Remove the object from
the icebox, and what the dew point in the icebox is irrelevant.

I'm talking about *ambient* relative humidity, which can be quite low,
and you (having only mentioned humidity)... were still inside the icebox.

You won't get any condensation (unless relative hum. is 100%) until you
cross the dew point. You'll do this even if the relative humidity isn't
100% in a localized area around a cool object if the object cools the
surrounding area to the dew point.

You can have a low relative humidity at the ambient temperature,
meaning a large difference between the air temp. and the dew
point, but because the air temp drops around the object you
cross the dew point and condensation occurs.


Thats mangling the story too. The dew point is just the temp
at which dew occurs and is basically 100% relative humidty then.


But it's been sloshing around in the back of my
head for a while now, so I may have that wrong.


Yeah, it is rather mangled.

I assume the rest of your post is still inside the box.

er
--
email not valid

Enoch Root wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Enoch Root wrote
Rod Speed wrote
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT skiddz
"AT" adelphia "DOT" net wrote
Enoch Root wrote

I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage
method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.

Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider
that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is
a magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its
temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment.
Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it
all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than
letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I
do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're
buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia.

So if you are going to use this method remember
that and don't take it out of its (airtight) bag until
it has set for awhile at the working temperature.

Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden
than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.

That's completely mangling the physics.

What matters is that the humidity level is 100%.

It's going to be the dew point for the air
localized around the cool object, I think.

It should be at the dew point thruout the fridge.

You seem to still be thinking inside the box.

Nope, you are.

Remove the object from the icebox, and
what the dew point in the icebox is irrelevant.

I wasnt even commenting on that situation, I was
JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim.

I'm talking about *ambient* relative humidity, which can be quite low,
and you (having only mentioned humidity)... were still inside the icebox.

Because I was JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim.

You won't get any condensation (unless relative hum. is 100%)
until you cross the dew point. You'll do this even if the relative
humidity isn't 100% in a localized area around a cool object if
the object cools the surrounding area to the dew point.

Irrelevant to his DRYING OUT claim which I was commenting on.

You can have a low relative humidity at the ambient temperature,
meaning a large difference between the air temp. and the dew
point, but because the air temp drops around the object you
cross the dew point and condensation occurs.

Thats mangling the story too. The dew point is just the temp
at which dew occurs and is basically 100% relative humidty then.

But it's been sloshing around in the back of my
head for a while now, so I may have that wrong.

Yeah, it is rather mangled.

I assume the rest of your post is still inside the box.

Nope, yours is.

The Pete C. entity posted thusly:

I don't use the Elmer's wood glue, all I have used in recent years is
the Titebond II which I have excellent results with. I typically have
one of the big jugs of the stuff and use it to refill a couple of the
smaller squeeze bottles with the push pull tops. These have sat in the
shop over hot summers and cold winters and I've use it under all
temperatures without any problems.

I have always kept my Titebond in the house, as I wondered about the
cold. What do you call 'cold winters'?

Must be sorry you asked the question by now - who said anything about caulk?
Anyway, CA glue ( like urethane glue, i.e Gorilla glue) cues in the
presences of moister. Air contains moister so its important to get as much
air out of the container as possible before you store it. Since it
chemically cures rather than drying by evaporation, the fridge is a good
idea since most chemical reactions are directly proportionally to temp.
Also, store the container upside down so the air in the container is 'at the
bottom' and not the top where you're trying to get the glue out.

Yellow glue is a similar problem for a different reason. It cures through
evaporation which air in the container will facilitate. Again, squeeze the
air out. It will thicken if frozen and Titebond says you can remedy this by
stirring. If it thickens without freezing I'd say its started curing and
there's little hope of reviving it. Having said this, Titebond claims its
shelf life in years. So I think air is the problem if you glue is
thickening.

I have to admit ignorance on contact cement, but I assume it could be
revived with the relevant solvent (lacquer thinner?) since you have to worry
about releasing contact cement glued veneer by spraying lacquer on it.

My glues are all store on their heads with the air (well most of it)
squeezed out it.


"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
oups.com...
How do you store your various glues?

With three different glues, I seldom have success.

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.
I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
dessicant in the refrigerator.

- Contact glue
With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.

- Elmer's woodworking glue
With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
tightened.

Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?

Thanks

TMT

Too_Many_Tools wrote:

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.

i remember when superglue was expensive. now it can be bought at the 99
cent store.

FWIW, there are 3 different packaging methods for it.

the "original" is in a plastic tube-thingie with a pin/cap to pierce
it.that works ok.

then theres the mini-bottle, which is hit and miss.

mini foil tubes are the worst, they always dry up.

"the "original" is in a plastic tube-thingie with a pin/cap to pierce
it.that works ok.
then theres the mini-bottle, which is hit and miss.
mini foil tubes are the worst, they always dry up. "

I used to buy the mini-bottle...and quit when I only got one use from
it.

I now buy the mini foil tubes...and they seldom last two applications.

Anyone know how they prevent the factory equipment from plugging up
with super glue gone bad?

TMT

Rod Speed wrote:
Enoch Root wrote

I'm talking about *ambient* relative humidity, which can be quite low,
and you (having only mentioned humidity)... were still inside the icebox.


Because I was JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim.

Well I don't know anything about the inside of a refrigerator that would
indicate it was governed by any other laws of physics than those present
in the outside world. It all still applies.

And he might be right that the freezer is drying it out.

If the object is embedded or surrounded by ice its temperature will
oscillilate with a much lower amplitude than that of the refrigerator
air. And it'll probably, on average, be higher than the average
temperature of the air in the freezer. Therefore its vapor pressure
will be marginally higher and there *will* be a net flow of water vapor out.

It happens to meat that's ruined by "freezer burn", which is just
partially freeze dried meat.

er
--
email not valid

Enoch Root wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Enoch Root wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Enoch Root wrote
Rod Speed wrote
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT skiddz
"AT" adelphia "DOT" net wrote
Enoch Root wrote

I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage
method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.

Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider
that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is
a magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its
temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment.
Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it
all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than
letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I
do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're
buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia.

So if you are going to use this method remember
that and don't take it out of its (airtight) bag until
it has set for awhile at the working temperature.

Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden
than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.

That's completely mangling the physics.

What matters is that the humidity level is 100%.

It's going to be the dew point for the air
localized around the cool object, I think.

It should be at the dew point thruout the fridge.

You seem to still be thinking inside the box.

Nope, you are.

Remove the object from the icebox, and
what the dew point in the icebox is irrelevant.

I wasnt even commenting on that situation, I was
JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim.

I'm talking about *ambient* relative humidity, which can be quite low,
and you (having only mentioned humidity)... were still inside the
icebox.

Because I was JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim.

Well I don't know anything about the inside of a refrigerator that
would indicate it was governed by any other laws of physics than
those present in the outside world. It all still applies.

No it doesnt. There is no equivalent outside the fridge of
the area where frost forms inside the fridge. Its that that
produces the drying out of food etc that isnt covered etc.

And he might be right that the freezer is drying it out.

That wasnt what he said about the MECHANISM.

If the object is embedded or surrounded by ice its temperature will
oscillilate with a much lower amplitude than that of the refrigerator
air.

Irrelevant what was being discussed, THE DRYING OUT.

And it'll probably, on average, be higher than the
average temperature of the air in the freezer.

Wrong again.

Therefore its vapor pressure will be marginally higher
and there *will* be a net flow of water vapor out.

Utterly mangled all over again with what causes DRYING OUT.

It happens to meat that's ruined by "freezer burn",

Nope, not the way you claim.

which is just partially freeze dried meat.

No its not. Its the dried out meat. Dying out even when frozen.

SoCalMike wrote:
Too_Many_Tools wrote:


- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.


i remember when superglue was expensive. now it can be bought at the 99
cent store.

FWIW, there are 3 different packaging methods for it.

the "original" is in a plastic tube-thingie with a pin/cap to pierce
it.that works ok.

then theres the mini-bottle, which is hit and miss.

mini foil tubes are the worst, they always dry up.

I recently bought superglue in a squeeze-pen dispenser...I don't know
how it's going to stand up to the test of time, but it is very easy to
control the application.

I press masking tape over the open tip and then wrap the rest around the
nozzle. I get up to 6 months or more with caulk and silicone. Sometimes you
have to squirt out thickened caulk or silicone. The High temp silicone in Al
tubes I put a piece of Al foil over the end and put the cap back on lasts
for years that way. Don't have a fix for super glue yet.
Karl

"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
ups.com...
"My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant..
They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless
of the measures I take to seal 'em up. "

In this case I don't have a problem with caulks...I just wrap a piece
of tape around the open tip and put in on a shelf which is subject to
normal indoor temperatures and humidity.

TMT

Oleg Lego wrote:

The Pete C. entity posted thusly:

I don't use the Elmer's wood glue, all I have used in recent years is
the Titebond II which I have excellent results with. I typically have
one of the big jugs of the stuff and use it to refill a couple of the
smaller squeeze bottles with the push pull tops. These have sat in the
shop over hot summers and cold winters and I've use it under all
temperatures without any problems.

I have always kept my Titebond in the house, as I wondered about the
cold. What do you call 'cold winters'?

North Texas these days so not too cold, but get down to 30s on occasion
in the shop. Highs in the shop would be upper 90s.

Pete C.

I buy most of my super glue in 8 oz. bottles, and it lasts a long time. Am
I doing something wrong?

If cyanoacrylic glue reacts to moisture, it follows that we should only
use it in humidity-controlled rooms, and shoot some moisture removing
inert gas into the bottle after use. CO2 is easy to obtain, or, if you
own a MIG welder, you've got a bottle of argon handy. It also follows
that it should have greater shelf life once opened in Arizona (low
humidity) than in Florida (off the scale humidity). Is this so? If it
is, is it worth all the trouble? Just buy smaller bottles of glue and
build faster! :-)

Max Mahanke wrote:

Anyway, CA glue... cues in the
presences of moister.

I purchased this stuff at the Pamona Swap Meet and I was told to put it
in the FREEZER and it stays perfect it will fast activate with SIMPLE
GREEN and when you add backing soda makes a super bond. Ed ke6bnl

MxBon 50g Bottle

MxBon 50g Bottle
SKU:

MXBON 105 is a high strength, instant bonding adhesive which can be
used for virtually any type of fastening job. It's a single component
that bonds almost all close-fitting smooth surfaces in second at room
temperature. It requires no mixing, no heating, and no clamping. It
contains no solvent, has low toxicity, mild odor and is non flammable.
HOW IT WORKS: MXBON 105 polymerizes when pressed into a thin film. The
very thin layer of water moisture present on most surfaces in
combination with the absence of oxygen (an anaerobic bond) acts as an
alkali, which is the catalyst that acts in bonding. Excess traces of
water will prevent the effective bonding of the materials.
SURFACE PREPARATION: Clean any oils or water by using acetone or M.E.K
(glass should be cleaned with alcohol to prevent any residue
accumulation). Metals should be free of rust and debris. Roughing up
the surface of metals (with sandpaper) will increase the bonding.
Remove any traces of the old glue if the surface has been bonded
before.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE: Apply a small amount of MXBON 105_ to the surface
to be bonded. (Usually one side). Lap them together to achieve a thin,
uniform application. Then fix them securely at prescribed position. The
thinner the adhesive application, the stronger the bond will be.
CARE/STORAGE: Avoid direct sunlight. Store in a cool, dry place.
(20-25°C) (68-77°F). For long term storage, refrigeration or freezer
is recommended.
Hints and Tricks Hint#1 Use any house hold baking soda as instant bondo
type filler. Can be used even for small plumbing leaks, medal filler,
substitution for a wood puddy etc. Can also be used with shavings of
like material for matching color.ie jewlery making etc. Will in most
cases take high heat and water etc. Hint#2 Instead of buying expensive
glue remover use Acetone. (seperating glued fingers) etc. Acetone also
makes a great cleaner/preparer for glass/medal. Hint#3 Use ordinary
hand lotion as a precautionary to avoid adhesion of fingers/skin.
Complete with ultra fine applicators to avoid excessive glue use and
proper glue dispersal. Complete with Special No-clog lid (needle bulit
into cap) to consistently keep lid free of glue build up. GLUES
VIRTUALLY ANY MATERIAL SUCH AS: PLASTIC/RUBBER including polyurethane,
neoprene, fiberglass, Kevlar, graphite, polycarbonate, PVC, abs,
polystyrene, Teflon, etc. · O-Ring, vacuum belt, and gasket repair or
installation. · Electronic manufacturing repair. · Auto weather
stripping, dashboard and molding repair. · Pool equipment. ·
Fishing equipment (lures, poles, etc). · Toys, Models, RC, etc. ·
Surf boards/ wake boards METAL including steel, aluminum, stainless
steel, copper, brass, etc. · Jewelry repair/manufacturing · Thread
locking · Machining parts (auto, industrial) · Knife making WOOD
· Antique restoration · Wood refinishing · Furniture making and
repair · Architectural models · Musical instruments · Picture
frame manufacturing and repair · Crafts ALSO, GLUES MINERALS/ GEMS/
COMPOSITES/ LEATHER and millions of other uses.
PRICE: $15.00

for rubber cement bloxegen works well. it works on polyurethane glue
too. super glue a bigger bottle. but it sounds like you use so little
not much will help but small bottles and throwing it away.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

Geoff Sanders wrote:
If cyanoacrylic glue reacts to moisture,

It does not cure with moisture. It is an anaerobic glue.

Dan

How long do you leave the glue stored?????

Elmers will last a year or so if capped.
Contact cement should last almost indefinitely if properly capped.

Don'e store either one of these in your fridge!

CA has a definite shelf life if approximately 1 year from date of
manufacture when properly stored. Storage is generally cool or cold
(refrigerator) and away from light. I have had CA last months uncapped in
my garage. If you use accelerators, your shelf life will be less.

--
Paul McIntosh
RC-Bearings.com
"when steel just isn't enough"
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
oups.com...
How do you store your various glues?

With three different glues, I seldom have success.

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.
I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
dessicant in the refrigerator.

- Contact glue
With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.

- Elmer's woodworking glue
With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
tightened.

Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?

Thanks

TMT

Too_Many_Tools wrote:
How do you store your various glues?

With three different glues, I seldom have success.

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.
I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
dessicant in the refrigerator.

- Contact glue
With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.

- Elmer's woodworking glue
With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
tightened.

Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?

Thanks

TMT


Yes tight lids and normal temperatures.

Although I can remember the time that the damn
super glue hadn't hardened by the the next time I
wanted to use it.

Contact glue with eventually harden even if
sealed, probably 2-3 years.

Elmers woodworking glue, is that the same as Elmer
carpenters glue (yellow)? I recently replace a
gallon of carpenters glue that I bought at least
20 years ago. And yes the last 1/2" was a little
thick. You definitely have a problem if yours goes
bad in less than 10 years. Besides, when it
thickens a little, just a bit of water, mix well,
and you will never know the difference.