I am going to do some decorative work with thin copper sheeting. When you
get into the really thin stuff, like about as thick as matchbook paper, is
there an easy way to accurately cut it? The pieces would be cut at right
angles. I know I can use snips, but that leaves a slight ridge, and I never
can get a really straight cut. On some decorative items, I will just have
to use snips of various sorts until I get the right combination.

Would a heavy duty paper cutter do the deed? Might still leave a small
ridge, but that could be hammered down. Anyone have any experience with
this?

Steve

On Mon, 23 Jan 2006 16:16:49 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

is there an easy way to accurately cut it?

Use snips. Get a brand new pair of jeweller's snips (Wiss G10s) with a
nice tight rivet and well set blades, and don't use them for anything
else.

The "ridge" is caused by the metal being folded over into the gap
between the blades. Reduce the gap, reduce the ridge.

Steve B wrote in message
news:xleBf.13295$JT.5230@fed1read06...
I am going to do some decorative work with thin copper sheeting. When you
get into the really thin stuff, like about as thick as matchbook paper, is
there an easy way to accurately cut it? The pieces would be cut at right
angles. I know I can use snips, but that leaves a slight ridge, and I
never
can get a really straight cut. On some decorative items, I will just have
to use snips of various sorts until I get the right combination.

Would a heavy duty paper cutter do the deed? Might still leave a small
ridge, but that could be hammered down. Anyone have any experience with
this?

You can buy little bench guillotines quite cheaply for copper and aluminium
sheet up to about 3mm thick but for stock as thin as you indicate a paper
guillotine would be ample. You could probably also manage by clamping a
straight edge over the material where you want to cut and using a scalpel or
Stanley knife.
--
Dave Baker

Steve B wrote:

I am going to do some decorative work with thin copper sheeting. When you
get into the really thin stuff, like about as thick as matchbook paper, is
there an easy way to accurately cut it? The pieces would be cut at right
angles. I know I can use snips, but that leaves a slight ridge, and I never
can get a really straight cut. On some decorative items, I will just have
to use snips of various sorts until I get the right combination.

Would a heavy duty paper cutter do the deed? Might still leave a small
ridge, but that could be hammered down. Anyone have any experience with
this?

Steve

I had opportunity to use one of those cheesy chiwanese made three in
one sheet metal combo tools for a while. The shear actually worked quite
effectively for the light gauge aluminum I was cutting. I would imagine
the press brake would work well enough to make a clean right angle bend
in copper, and the roller portion was functional, if a bit inonvenient
to use (handle positioning). Google search Grizzly G4011 Sheet Metal
Machine to see one example of 30 inch capacity for a bit over $350 US.
If 12 inch capacity will do, the same outfit sells a machine of that
size for about a hundred bucks less. Harbour Freight and others may well
sell same or similar for less money.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

Hi Steve,
Find a thing called a "nibbler". It is a hand operated device like a
pair of pliers, but with a cutting action a bit like a punch press.
With a small amount of practice, you can cut quite square corners with
it, and no distortion, or at least a minimal amount.
Regards, Ian Kirby.
Wollongong NSW Australia
Steve B wrote:
I am going to do some decorative work with thin copper sheeting. When you
get into the really thin stuff, like about as thick as matchbook paper, is
there an easy way to accurately cut it? The pieces would be cut at right
angles. I know I can use snips, but that leaves a slight ridge, and I never
can get a really straight cut. On some decorative items, I will just have
to use snips of various sorts until I get the right combination.

Would a heavy duty paper cutter do the deed? Might still leave a small
ridge, but that could be hammered down. Anyone have any experience with
this?

Steve

Steve B wrote:
I am going to do some decorative work with thin copper sheeting. When you
get into the really thin stuff, like about as thick as matchbook paper, is
there an easy way to accurately cut it? The pieces would be cut at right
angles. I know I can use snips, but that leaves a slight ridge, and I never
can get a really straight cut. On some decorative items, I will just have
to use snips of various sorts until I get the right combination.
I have a technique I use for cutting thin copper sheet that
is laminated to PC board materials. I take a #11 Xacto
blade that has been well used, and swipe the point across
a bench stone. It makes it like a micro chisel, although
not as acute an angle. This would make the chisel as
wide as the thickness of the blade, maybe .020" (1/2 mm).

I put a ruler down as a guide and hold the Xacto knife
with a grip like a fist. Then I put the blade against the
material and pull it toward me. I can usually cut through
the .0015" (one ounce) copper on a PCB on the 2nd stroke.

You wouldn't want to use this method except on very thin
copper, and then it might buckle if it wasn't attached to
something. Holding the part you want under the steel ruler
might save the part, though.

This does leave a slight ridge, but you can easily slice
that off with a fresh Xacto knife.

Jon

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve B"
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 7:16 PM
Subject: Cutting copper


I am going to do some decorative work with thin copper sheeting. When you
get into the really thin stuff, like about as thick as matchbook paper, is
there an easy way to accurately cut it? The pieces would be cut at right
angles. I know I can use snips, but that leaves a slight ridge, and I
never can get a really straight cut. On some decorative items, I will just
have to use snips of various sorts until I get the right combination.

Would a heavy duty paper cutter do the deed? Might still leave a small
ridge, but that could be hammered down. Anyone have any experience with
this?

Steve




dave baker's response reminded me of my (desperation) technique. straight
edge and one of those hooked scoring blades in a stanley knife. very light
multiple passes (if you cut too deeply it'll dig in and rip) on a flat
smooth hard surface to back up the cut (i use my table saw table). i've
used this technique for cutting dissected aluminum cans for shims. score it
(as deeply as you dare) and bend it back and forth to divide. i doubt if it
would be possible to make curved cuts. i don't like that ridge either
that's why i use this technique when i'm cutting shims out of REALLY thin
stuff.

b.w.

Steve B wrote:
I am going to do some decorative work with thin copper sheeting. When you
get into the really thin stuff, like about as thick as matchbook paper, is
there an easy way to accurately cut it? The pieces would be cut at right
angles. I know I can use snips, but that leaves a slight ridge, and I never
can get a really straight cut. On some decorative items, I will just have
to use snips of various sorts until I get the right combination.

Would a heavy duty paper cutter do the deed? Might still leave a small
ridge, but that could be hammered down. Anyone have any experience with
this?

Steve



Another method not mentioned might be acid etching. Spray all sides of the
sheet with some kind of insulator (a primer or draftsman's spray) and scribe a
thin line on both sides where you want the cut. Then place the sheet into a
vertical-standing vat of Iron Chloride (FeCl, radio shack copper etching
solution) or Ammonium Persulphate. Both work best when the solution is warmed,
such as with an aquarium heater. Agitate the sheet occasionally and the exposed
copper will be consumed. The least copper consumed, the longer the solution will
last. Intricate designs can be made this way. Iron and steel parts can also be
dipped in the solution to create a rough surface, like what is desirable on
firearms.

Why not just cut it with snips and then flatten the edge using a polished
hammer? Copper is quite malleable and hammers really easily.

GWE

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Why not just cut it with snips and then flatten the edge using a polished
hammer? Copper is quite malleable and hammers really easily.

GWE

Um... there's a "trade secret" to cutting copper sheet. My dad taught me
this when I was a kid, then I heard it repeated once on the 1980's show
"Half a Handy Hour".

This is THE secret to working with sheet copper:

DON'T bleed to death.

GGG

LLoyd

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

Um... there's a "trade secret" to cutting copper sheet. My dad taught me
this when I was a kid, then I heard it repeated once on the 1980's show
"Half a Handy Hour".

This is THE secret to working with sheet copper:

DON'T bleed to death.

GGG

LLoyd

Snort! How true with sheet *anything*, even paper to be honest. My
family can always tell what kind of work I've been doing by my injuries:
burns=soldering, barked knuckles=mechanical, etc. but the really serious
bloodshed always means sheet metal.

Wonder if machining is my favorite because I don't damage myself, much?
--
Fred R
________________
Drop TROU to email.

On Tue, 24 Jan 2006 21:06:10 GMT, Fred R "spam wrote:
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

This is THE secret to working with sheet copper:
DON'T bleed to death.

Snort! How true with sheet *anything*, even paper to be honest.

Oh yes, but speaking from direct personal experience, copper-foil cuts
sting a LOT more than a paper cut.

Wonder if machining is my favorite because I don't damage myself, much?

Well, hot chips certainly get one's attention, depending on where they
land...

Fred R wrote:
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

Um... there's a "trade secret" to cutting copper sheet. My dad taught
me this when I was a kid, then I heard it repeated once on the 1980's
show "Half a Handy Hour".

This is THE secret to working with sheet copper:

DON'T bleed to death.

GGG

LLoyd


Snort! How true with sheet *anything*, even paper to be honest. My
family can always tell what kind of work I've been doing by my injuries:
burns=soldering, barked knuckles=mechanical, etc. but the really serious
bloodshed always means sheet metal.

Wonder if machining is my favorite because I don't damage myself, much?

Until a machine chews a finger

Dave Hinz wrote:


Well, hot chips certainly get one's attention, depending on where they
land...


Those, still-hot toolbits, and barbed swarf under the fingernails. One
does expect the occasional enthusiastic outcry, right? 8^)
--
Fred R
________________
Drop TROU to email.

On Tue, 24 Jan 2006 21:42:32 GMT, Fred R "spam wrote:
Dave Hinz wrote:

Well, hot chips certainly get one's attention, depending on where they
land...

Those, still-hot toolbits, and barbed swarf under the fingernails. One
does expect the occasional enthusiastic outcry, right? 8^)

I'm almost always good about still-hot toolbits. Waaaaay back (mumble)
years ago in high school chemistry class, the instructor taught us:
"Hot glass looks exactly the same as cold glass" as one of the lab
safety rules. I've tried to keep that in mind, and usually succeed.

I use my CNC plasma machine. I cut 0.032" to 1/4" copper for hanger trinkets and
such...

Very easy to do.

A coping saw - used in wood work like this - with a very fine blade does a good
job. They make round blades that the slot is helix. Those are fine working.

Martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Steve B wrote:
I am going to do some decorative work with thin copper sheeting. When you
get into the really thin stuff, like about as thick as matchbook paper, is
there an easy way to accurately cut it? The pieces would be cut at right
angles. I know I can use snips, but that leaves a slight ridge, and I never
can get a really straight cut. On some decorative items, I will just have
to use snips of various sorts until I get the right combination.

Would a heavy duty paper cutter do the deed? Might still leave a small
ridge, but that could be hammered down. Anyone have any experience with
this?

Steve



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Steve B wrote:

I am going to do some decorative work with thin copper sheeting. When you
get into the really thin stuff, like about as thick as matchbook paper, is
there an easy way to accurately cut it? The pieces would be cut at right
angles. I know I can use snips, but that leaves a slight ridge, and I never
can get a really straight cut. On some decorative items, I will just have
to use snips of various sorts until I get the right combination.

There are electric shears, and nibblers that do a great job. One of the
shears that is popular with roofers is the DW890, there are equivalent
models with most manufacturers. It leaves a pigtail.

Nibblers are fantastic as well. Once you use one of these, and provided
it's suited to the job at hand, you won't be wanting to use your snips
again. Nibblers a great for the reduced injury risk, all things being
equal. They leave small razor-sharp chips.

You can also play with the sheet temperature to change how "buttery" it
is, and reduce edge distortion. The colder the sheet, the more it will
tend to shear rather than tear.


Would a heavy duty paper cutter do the deed? Might still leave a small
ridge, but that could be hammered down. Anyone have any experience with
this?

Steve

On Tue, 24 Jan 2006 20:43:39 -0600, Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
I use my CNC plasma machine. I cut 0.032" to 1/4" copper for hanger trinkets and
such...

Where can I buy .032" copper sheets, in head-gasket sizes? Any good
sources? Alternately, if I get you a pattern, what kind of price should
I expect to pay to have a one-off gasket made?

"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 24 Jan 2006 20:43:39 -0600, Martin H. Eastburn
wrote:
I use my CNC plasma machine. I cut 0.032" to 1/4" copper for hanger
trinkets and
such...

Where can I buy .032" copper sheets, in head-gasket sizes? Any good
sources? Alternately, if I get you a pattern, what kind of price should
I expect to pay to have a one-off gasket made?



I googled up a ton of sources for copper. Trouble is, most want to sell you
a large quantity of the stuff. I found that ebay had smaller quantities at
much lower prices. You just have to shop around. Maybe you will get lucky,
and someone here will have a piece.

Steve

Depends on the size and pain to do - but cutting is like nothing.

http://www.onlinemetals.com/ (out of Washington) -

They now have all sorts of copper sheet thinner that that now!

bottom left - copper/sheet selection.

They now start at .00405 3oz Never tried that thin!

If you have dxf or bmp or graphic jpg .... I can convert easily.

send me an e-mail - no problem.

Martin


Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Dave Hinz wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jan 2006 20:43:39 -0600, Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

I use my CNC plasma machine. I cut 0.032" to 1/4" copper for hanger trinkets and
such...


Where can I buy .032" copper sheets, in head-gasket sizes? Any good
sources? Alternately, if I get you a pattern, what kind of price should
I expect to pay to have a one-off gasket made?



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According to Dave Hinz :
On Tue, 24 Jan 2006 21:42:32 GMT, Fred R "spam wrote:
Those, still-hot toolbits, and barbed swarf under the fingernails. One
does expect the occasional enthusiastic outcry, right? 8^)

[ ... ]

I'm almost always good about still-hot toolbits. Waaaaay back (mumble)
years ago in high school chemistry class, the instructor taught us:
"Hot glass looks exactly the same as cold glass" as one of the lab
safety rules. I've tried to keep that in mind, and usually succeed.

I was pretty good with the hot glass, but the first time I made
a medicine dropper in college chem lab, I rolled the lip to go into the
squeeze bulb, and held it up to admire, while my right hand rested
against my chin. However, I still had the triangular file in that hand,
with the tang of the file (used to roll the lip) up, so I branded my
cheek with *that*. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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