I bought this cheap version of "sawzall" but it's a craftsman one for
like $60.
Perhaps it's a craftsman one instead of the real sawzall and it sucks,
or maybe someone can tell me what they think.

I found it to be an overweighted clumsy tool that does not cut as well
(and easy) as my hacksaw. Maybe I am expecting too much and it's
meant for cutting wood?

The problem is that I think the object to be cut needs to be clamped
down. I am used to a little air compressor powered saw which is the
size as an air ratchet and that one can zip throw sheet metal very
well, where as this sawzall clone just vibrates the hell out of the
metal and doesn't really cut. Do I need finer teeth blade?

I was standing on a junked muffler (so it's secured), trying to cut an
hanger off and it's barely notching the metal. I don't know what the
problem is.. Put it under a chop saw instead and it comes off in 3
seconds.
I feel like this thing can only cut styloform and wood. Great for
trimming the trees in my backyard I bet!

Sawzalls and the competing brands are very handy tools, but mostly for rough
work and not for serious metal cutting. You need good, bimetal blades -- and
don't set your expectations too high.

Mill


I bought this cheap version of "sawzall" but it's a craftsman one for
like $60.
Perhaps it's a craftsman one instead of the real sawzall and it sucks,
or maybe someone can tell me what they think.

I found it to be an overweighted clumsy tool that does not cut as well
(and easy) as my hacksaw. Maybe I am expecting too much and it's
meant for cutting wood?

The problem is that I think the object to be cut needs to be clamped
down. I am used to a little air compressor powered saw which is the
size as an air ratchet and that one can zip throw sheet metal very
well, where as this sawzall clone just vibrates the hell out of the
metal and doesn't really cut. Do I need finer teeth blade?

I was standing on a junked muffler (so it's secured), trying to cut an
hanger off and it's barely notching the metal. I don't know what the
problem is.. Put it under a chop saw instead and it comes off in 3
seconds.
I feel like this thing can only cut styloform and wood. Great for
trimming the trees in my backyard I bet!

I would like to find a set of diamond files, mill and ******* file
attachments for my cordless Milwaukee Hatchet. Has any one seen any files
for sawzalls yet?
"MP Toolman" wrote in message
...
Sawzalls and the competing brands are very handy tools, but mostly for
rough
work and not for serious metal cutting. You need good, bimetal blades --
and
don't set your expectations too high.

Mill


I bought this cheap version of "sawzall" but it's a craftsman one for
like $60.
Perhaps it's a craftsman one instead of the real sawzall and it sucks,
or maybe someone can tell me what they think.

I found it to be an overweighted clumsy tool that does not cut as well
(and easy) as my hacksaw. Maybe I am expecting too much and it's
meant for cutting wood?

The problem is that I think the object to be cut needs to be clamped
down. I am used to a little air compressor powered saw which is the
size as an air ratchet and that one can zip throw sheet metal very
well, where as this sawzall clone just vibrates the hell out of the
metal and doesn't really cut. Do I need finer teeth blade?

I was standing on a junked muffler (so it's secured), trying to cut an
hanger off and it's barely notching the metal. I don't know what the
problem is.. Put it under a chop saw instead and it comes off in 3
seconds.
I feel like this thing can only cut styloform and wood. Great for
trimming the trees in my backyard I bet!

On 24 Nov 2003 11:59:40 GMT, (MP Toolman) wrote:

===Sawzalls and the competing brands are very handy tools, but mostly for rough
===work and not for serious metal cutting. You need good, bimetal blades -- and
===don't set your expectations too high.
===
===Mill
===
===
===I bought this cheap version of "sawzall" but it's a craftsman one for
===like $60.
===Perhaps it's a craftsman one instead of the real sawzall and it sucks,
===or maybe someone can tell me what they think.
===
===I found it to be an overweighted clumsy tool that does not cut as well
===(and easy) as my hacksaw. Maybe I am expecting too much and it's
===meant for cutting wood?
===
===The problem is that I think the object to be cut needs to be clamped
===down. I am used to a little air compressor powered saw which is the
===size as an air ratchet and that one can zip throw sheet metal very
===well, where as this sawzall clone just vibrates the hell out of the
===metal and doesn't really cut. Do I need finer teeth blade?
===
===I was standing on a junked muffler (so it's secured), trying to cut an
===hanger off and it's barely notching the metal. I don't know what the
===problem is.. Put it under a chop saw instead and it comes off in 3
===seconds.
===I feel like this thing can only cut styloform and wood. Great for
===trimming the trees in my backyard I bet!
===
I dunno abnaout setting expectations to high, as the Porter Cable
Tiger Saw I have been using is sure one nice saw, and its accuracy is
dependant on the operator. I agree its not worth your time to buy
cheap blades and you'll get more mileage out of bimetal. I have cut a
heap of stuff so far and its proven to be a great saw. Of course I
can't speak for Crapsman brand or the others but the Pporter Cable is
great, and I would surely think a MiIlwaukee would be just as good as
well. Work getting cut generally needs to be held firmly, and the saw
needs to be held firmly against the work.

Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wifes,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.

I just finished cutting 12 pieces of 2" angle with my Skil using 24 tpi
bi-metal blades. My buddy laughed when he got a look at the saw and started
breaking out his OA rig to do the cutting. I was through the first piece
before he got his tourch lit. It helps to use a little bit of oil on each
cut and it takes a bit of practice to get a straight cut. You will have to
clamp the work down. With mild steal or conduit, the blades last a long
time. But if you are cutting rebar forget it. Good luck.

"jj3000" wrote in message
om...
I bought this cheap version of "sawzall" but it's a craftsman one for
like $60.
Perhaps it's a craftsman one instead of the real sawzall and it sucks,
or maybe someone can tell me what they think.

I found it to be an overweighted clumsy tool that does not cut as well
(and easy) as my hacksaw. Maybe I am expecting too much and it's
meant for cutting wood?

The problem is that I think the object to be cut needs to be clamped
down. I am used to a little air compressor powered saw which is the
size as an air ratchet and that one can zip throw sheet metal very
well, where as this sawzall clone just vibrates the hell out of the
metal and doesn't really cut. Do I need finer teeth blade?

I was standing on a junked muffler (so it's secured), trying to cut an
hanger off and it's barely notching the metal. I don't know what the
problem is.. Put it under a chop saw instead and it comes off in 3
seconds.
I feel like this thing can only cut styloform and wood. Great for
trimming the trees in my backyard I bet!

(jj3000) wrote in message . com...
I bought this cheap version of "sawzall" but it's a craftsman one for
like $60.
Perhaps it's a craftsman one instead of the real sawzall and it sucks,
or maybe someone can tell me what they think.

I found it to be an overweighted clumsy tool that does not cut as well
(and easy) as my hacksaw. Maybe I am expecting too much and it's
meant for cutting wood?

The problem is that I think the object to be cut needs to be clamped
down. I am used to a little air compressor powered saw which is the
size as an air ratchet and that one can zip throw sheet metal very
well, where as this sawzall clone just vibrates the hell out of the
metal and doesn't really cut. Do I need finer teeth blade?

I was standing on a junked muffler (so it's secured), trying to cut an
hanger off and it's barely notching the metal. I don't know what the
problem is.. Put it under a chop saw instead and it comes off in 3
seconds.
I feel like this thing can only cut styloform and wood. Great for
trimming the trees in my backyard I bet!

The sawzall clones have a shorter stroke than the real thing so a few
teeth do all the cutting, and then break off. The work needs to
either be well-anchored or heavy enough for the teeth to do any
cutting at all. You can try resting the shoe on the work.

Full speed is too fast for metal, just burns up even a good bimetal
blade. Yes you need a fine enough pitch blade to keep a few teeth in
the work.

The sawzall is a good last-ditch tool, like for chopping structural
steel in the boeing surplus yard. Hacksaw is better for many things.

I have silver soldered a few "attachments" to old blade shanks with great
results but I haven't seen comercial versions.


"Jeteye" wrote in message
. ..
I would like to find a set of diamond files, mill and ******* file
attachments for my cordless Milwaukee Hatchet. Has any one seen any files
for sawzalls yet?
"MP Toolman" wrote in message
...
Sawzalls and the competing brands are very handy tools, but mostly for
rough
work and not for serious metal cutting. You need good, bimetal
blades --
and
don't set your expectations too high.

Mill


I bought this cheap version of "sawzall" but it's a craftsman one for
like $60.
Perhaps it's a craftsman one instead of the real sawzall and it sucks,
or maybe someone can tell me what they think.

I found it to be an overweighted clumsy tool that does not cut as well
(and easy) as my hacksaw. Maybe I am expecting too much and it's
meant for cutting wood?

The problem is that I think the object to be cut needs to be clamped
down. I am used to a little air compressor powered saw which is the
size as an air ratchet and that one can zip throw sheet metal very
well, where as this sawzall clone just vibrates the hell out of the
metal and doesn't really cut. Do I need finer teeth blade?

I was standing on a junked muffler (so it's secured), trying to cut an
hanger off and it's barely notching the metal. I don't know what the
problem is.. Put it under a chop saw instead and it comes off in 3
seconds.
I feel like this thing can only cut styloform and wood. Great for
trimming the trees in my backyard I bet!

The real trick is to lube and to keep the shoe on the work.
This means push against the work as it saws. Using the correct pitch
blade is important - e.g. the 3 tooth in the metal at a time rule is
kept here if possible.

And yes - I have a 18" blade for limb cutting - it is green after all -
and it
slices the end of the Christmas tree every year. Don't remember ever
doing any sawing on a tree, but heck - a long extension cord and a saw
up the
tree might be nicer than a chain saw in the same hands.

Martin [ beneath 150 foot (British Imperial foot) Coastal Redwood trees
]
--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

On Tue, 25 Nov 2003 05:41:28 GMT, Eastburn
wrote:

The real trick is to lube and to keep the shoe on the work.
This means push against the work as it saws. Using the correct pitch
blade is important - e.g. the 3 tooth in the metal at a time rule is
kept here if possible.

And yes - I have a 18" blade for limb cutting - it is green after all -
and it
slices the end of the Christmas tree every year. Don't remember ever
doing any sawing on a tree, but heck - a long extension cord and a saw
up the
tree might be nicer than a chain saw in the same hands.

Martin [ beneath 150 foot (British Imperial foot) Coastal Redwood trees
]

I trim my palm trees with my Sawzall. Tie Wrap the trigger down, tape
it with duct tape to an old extendable pool net pole, and when Im
ready..plug in the extension cord. Works pretty good and I only have
to do it once a year.

Im thinking about either cutting the damned things down, or trying to
sell them. I planted them from 6" pots about 10 yrs ago..and now they
are about 25' tall.

Mexican fan palm...shrug

Gunner

"The British attitude is to treat society like a game preserve where a
certain percentage of the 'antelope' are expected to be eaten by the
"lions".
Christopher Morton

Gunner wrote in message . ..
On Tue, 25 Nov 2003 05:41:28 GMT, Eastburn
wrote:

The real trick is to lube and to keep the shoe on the work.
This means push against the work as it saws. Using the correct pitch
blade is important - e.g. the 3 tooth in the metal at a time rule is
kept here if possible.



For most sawzall type metal cutting you only dull the first inch of
teeth from the saw "shoe"
2 ways to get more life from the blade

1 make a shoe extension that extends the shoe past the dull portion
and screws to the existing shoe.

2 grind and snap the dull portion away and grind a new tab on the
blade for the saw to hold

and of course ANY oil when cutting is better than none.

On 25 Nov 2003 06:59:45 -0800, (Beecrofter) wrote
something
.......and in reply I say!:

But in both cases remember not to make the blade so short that its tip
comes up into the cut when it retracts.

1 make a shoe extension that extends the shoe past the dull portion
and screws to the existing shoe.

2 grind and snap the dull portion away and grind a new tab on the
blade for the saw to hold

and of course ANY oil when cutting is better than none.

************************************************** ** sorry
remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Imagine a _world_ where Nature's lights are obscured
by man's. There would be nowhere to go.
Or wait a while. Then you won't have to imagine.

If you can sell the palms - someone will love them!

I lived in So. Ca. and we had wimpy Queen palms at the time.
THey were ok, but more fan than go. Maybe that made them best.

Grew up across the street from a massive date palm that was planted
in the 30's. It was 20 years old at the time - and last I saw it
10 years ago that sucker was bigger! Tons of dates and falling fronds.

Martin
--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder