DIYbanter - View Single Post

(jj3000) wrote in message . com...
I bought this cheap version of "sawzall" but it's a craftsman one for
like $60.
Perhaps it's a craftsman one instead of the real sawzall and it sucks,
or maybe someone can tell me what they think.

I found it to be an overweighted clumsy tool that does not cut as well
(and easy) as my hacksaw. Maybe I am expecting too much and it's
meant for cutting wood?

The problem is that I think the object to be cut needs to be clamped
down. I am used to a little air compressor powered saw which is the
size as an air ratchet and that one can zip throw sheet metal very
well, where as this sawzall clone just vibrates the hell out of the
metal and doesn't really cut. Do I need finer teeth blade?

I was standing on a junked muffler (so it's secured), trying to cut an
hanger off and it's barely notching the metal. I don't know what the
problem is.. Put it under a chop saw instead and it comes off in 3
seconds.
I feel like this thing can only cut styloform and wood. Great for
trimming the trees in my backyard I bet!

The sawzall clones have a shorter stroke than the real thing so a few
teeth do all the cutting, and then break off. The work needs to
either be well-anchored or heavy enough for the teeth to do any
cutting at all. You can try resting the shoe on the work.

Full speed is too fast for metal, just burns up even a good bimetal
blade. Yes you need a fine enough pitch blade to keep a few teeth in
the work.

The sawzall is a good last-ditch tool, like for chopping structural
steel in the boeing surplus yard. Hacksaw is better for many things.