I just finished cutting 12 pieces of 2" angle with my Skil using 24 tpi
bi-metal blades. My buddy laughed when he got a look at the saw and started
breaking out his OA rig to do the cutting. I was through the first piece
before he got his tourch lit. It helps to use a little bit of oil on each
cut and it takes a bit of practice to get a straight cut. You will have to
clamp the work down. With mild steal or conduit, the blades last a long
time. But if you are cutting rebar forget it. Good luck.

"jj3000" wrote in message
om...
I bought this cheap version of "sawzall" but it's a craftsman one for
like $60.
Perhaps it's a craftsman one instead of the real sawzall and it sucks,
or maybe someone can tell me what they think.

I found it to be an overweighted clumsy tool that does not cut as well
(and easy) as my hacksaw. Maybe I am expecting too much and it's
meant for cutting wood?

The problem is that I think the object to be cut needs to be clamped
down. I am used to a little air compressor powered saw which is the
size as an air ratchet and that one can zip throw sheet metal very
well, where as this sawzall clone just vibrates the hell out of the
metal and doesn't really cut. Do I need finer teeth blade?

I was standing on a junked muffler (so it's secured), trying to cut an
hanger off and it's barely notching the metal. I don't know what the
problem is.. Put it under a chop saw instead and it comes off in 3
seconds.
I feel like this thing can only cut styloform and wood. Great for
trimming the trees in my backyard I bet!