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Roy
 
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Default sawzall or reciprocating saw tips?

On 24 Nov 2003 11:59:40 GMT, (MP Toolman) wrote:

===Sawzalls and the competing brands are very handy tools, but mostly for rough
===work and not for serious metal cutting. You need good, bimetal blades -- and
===don't set your expectations too high.
===
===Mill
===
===
===I bought this cheap version of "sawzall" but it's a craftsman one for
===like $60.
===Perhaps it's a craftsman one instead of the real sawzall and it sucks,
===or maybe someone can tell me what they think.
===
===I found it to be an overweighted clumsy tool that does not cut as well
===(and easy) as my hacksaw. Maybe I am expecting too much and it's
===meant for cutting wood?
===
===The problem is that I think the object to be cut needs to be clamped
===down. I am used to a little air compressor powered saw which is the
===size as an air ratchet and that one can zip throw sheet metal very
===well, where as this sawzall clone just vibrates the hell out of the
===metal and doesn't really cut. Do I need finer teeth blade?
===
===I was standing on a junked muffler (so it's secured), trying to cut an
===hanger off and it's barely notching the metal. I don't know what the
===problem is.. Put it under a chop saw instead and it comes off in 3
===seconds.
===I feel like this thing can only cut styloform and wood. Great for
===trimming the trees in my backyard I bet!
===

I dunno abnaout setting expectations to high, as the Porter Cable
Tiger Saw I have been using is sure one nice saw, and its accuracy is
dependant on the operator. I agree its not worth your time to buy
cheap blades and you'll get more mileage out of bimetal. I have cut a
heap of stuff so far and its proven to be a great saw. Of course I
can't speak for Crapsman brand or the others but the Pporter Cable is
great, and I would surely think a MiIlwaukee would be just as good as
well. Work getting cut generally needs to be held firmly, and the saw
needs to be held firmly against the work.

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