Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

I need to find a good, knowledgeable old fart, (or young fart), to help
with leading in the body panels(body solder). Seattle area. Help, anyone?
Thanks
JR
Dweller in the cellar

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

I've done a fair amount of body work restoring older cars - I'd recommend
you consider alternatives to lead - in particular, the high quality epoxy
puttys - specifically NOT Bondo - I have had excellent luck with a putty
called "allmetal" that uses a metallic filler instead of talc (whcih is what
the cheap ones use) - I've had repairs that are fine, no cracks, after 15
years. the stuff is pricy, but much easier to use than lead, and better for
you and the environment. you can get it at automotive paint supply stores
like FinishMaster
"JR North" wrote in message
.. .
Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

I need to find a good, knowledgeable old fart, (or young fart), to help
with leading in the body panels(body solder). Seattle area. Help, anyone?
Thanks
JR
Dweller in the cellar

The thing with lead is it will wick in between the panels and lock them
together so they can't flex at the joint. Body filler materials will not
do this. I'm sure there will be cracking around the upper seams after
driving awhile if I use a filler material.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

william_b_noble wrote:

I've done a fair amount of body work restoring older cars - I'd recommend
you consider alternatives to lead - in particular, the high quality epoxy
puttys - specifically NOT Bondo - I have had excellent luck with a putty
called "allmetal" that uses a metallic filler instead of talc (whcih is what
the cheap ones use) - I've had repairs that are fine, no cracks, after 15
years. the stuff is pricy, but much easier to use than lead, and better for
you and the environment. you can get it at automotive paint supply stores
like FinishMaster
"JR North" wrote in message
.. .

Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

I need to find a good, knowledgeable old fart, (or young fart), to help
with leading in the body panels(body solder). Seattle area. Help, anyone?
Thanks
JR
Dweller in the cellar






--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

On Sun, 23 Oct 2005 11:31:06 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, JR
North quickly quoth:

Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

I need to find a good, knowledgeable old fart, (or young fart), to help
with leading in the body panels(body solder). Seattle area. Help, anyone?

I used to work for a body shop (wrenching for them) and had the fine
experience of watching a real lead artiste at work several times. He'd
flux the area, melt some lead on, and heat his wooden paddle to melt
some beeswax onto it, then carefully reheat the body panel and solder
before smoothing it down with the paddle. The body file came next and
left 'er smoother than a baby's butt.

www.Eastwood.com sells a lead-free kit for $130 if you're considering
doing it yourself. 31125 for the VHS or 11166 for the kit with DVD.
It would be a good, money-making skillset to have.


--
Strong like ox, smart like tractor.
----------------------------------
www.diversify.com Oxen-free Website Design

On Sun, 23 Oct 2005 11:59:15 -0700, JR North
wrote:

The thing with lead is it will wick in between the panels and lock them
together so they can't flex at the joint. Body filler materials will not
do this. I'm sure there will be cracking around the upper seams after
driving awhile if I use a filler material.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

william_b_noble wrote:

I've done a fair amount of body work restoring older cars - I'd recommend
you consider alternatives to lead - in particular, the high quality epoxy
puttys - specifically NOT Bondo - I have had excellent luck with a putty
called "allmetal" that uses a metallic filler instead of talc (whcih is what
the cheap ones use) - I've had repairs that are fine, no cracks, after 15
years. the stuff is pricy, but much easier to use than lead, and better for
you and the environment. you can get it at automotive paint supply stores
like FinishMaster
"JR North" wrote in message
.. .

Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

I need to find a good, knowledgeable old fart, (or young fart), to help
with leading in the body panels(body solder). Seattle area. Help, anyone?
Thanks
JR
Dweller in the cellar



Solder seal the joints, then fill with a metalized filler like
Alumaplex or a fine chopped glass lighweight filler - NOT a polyester
filler. Get the best of both worlds. The new filler is less than half
the weight of lead, much simpler to apply and finish,

"JR North" wrote in message
.. .
Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

I need to find a good, knowledgeable old fart, (or young fart), to
help
with leading in the body panels(body solder). Seattle area. Help,
anyone?
Thanks
JR
Dweller in the cellar

--

Leadwork CAN be a bit different. Big thing is to clean the parts REAL
well and remove any grease/oil/dirt. Even handprints will cause it to
fail. You can buy the paddles and lead from Eastwood, they have a kit as
well that includes a video that is pretty good as well. I use a O/A with
a VERY wide tip to do most of my heating, you want to heat the area
larger than you plan to lead to allow the lead to feather at the edges,
then you remove most of it with the body files. Then you do metal
finishing with files/heat and hammers to cure any small warped areas
(careful use of just enough heat will prevent them a lot) Don't use
propane for heating because it puts a LOT of water onto the parts and
can cause rust under the lead when it is trapped in a seam. Seams can be
cleaned and tinned prior to assembly as well which will bond the parts
together and keep the seam from shifting. On fixed panel seams
(roofline/QP/Rear valance areas) you just heat from behind and allow the
lead to flow into the seam (like sweating a pipe joint). For a first
timer I suggest extra tinning butter and a couple extra flex files
(takes a bit to get used to adjusting them). Seasoned maple, and oak
work well for custom paddles if you don't want to buy extras (they get
charred during use). Your going to want a respirator to keep from
breathing the lead fumes. Light sunglasses also make it easier to watch
the flowing lead.

Looked at the Roadster pages. Nice work so far.

Steve W.



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I would suggest using a "tinning flux" instead of regular flux, just in
case you didn't already know about it. It makes the work sooo much
easier. It's flux with powdered solder in it already, just flux, heat
and it's tinned.

John

On Sun, 23 Oct 2005 11:31:06 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

I need to find a good, knowledgeable old fart, (or young fart), to help
with leading in the body panels(body solder). Seattle area. Help, anyone?
Thanks
JR
Dweller in the cellar

Look in the yellow pages under "restoration". There's a shop here
in Fridley (MN) that does leading, but it's a bit of a hike from
Seattle.

On Sun, 23 Oct 2005 11:31:06 -0700, JR North wrote:
Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

I need to find a good, knowledgeable old fart, (or young fart), to help
with leading in the body panels(body solder). Seattle area. Help, anyone?

Eastwood, Co. sells bodywork leading supplies. I've got a set of the
files and paddles that I haven't used in years; if you're up to trying
it yourself, I'd be happy to dig it out and we can decide what it's
worth if you want it.

Dave Hinz

Looks like I'll go the Eastwood route(no sources here), and do it
myself. After all, I can do anything I try. I removed the original body
solder when taking the car apart, so it's just the reverse, with a
little 'hand' for good measure.
BTW: you can put together a better lead 'kit' at Eastwood by ordering
individual components instead of the kits they sell.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

JR North wrote:
Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

I need to find a good, knowledgeable old fart, (or young fart), to help
with leading in the body panels(body solder). Seattle area. Help, anyone?
Thanks
JR
Dweller in the cellar



--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

JR North wrote:
Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

Nice work, Jason. That roadster's going to look like new when you've
finished.

Chris

On Mon, 24 Oct 2005 10:48:17 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Looks like I'll go the Eastwood route(no sources here), and do it
myself. After all, I can do anything I try. I removed the original body
solder when taking the car apart, so it's just the reverse, with a
little 'hand' for good measure.
BTW: you can put together a better lead 'kit' at Eastwood by ordering
individual components instead of the kits they sell.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

JR North wrote:
Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

I need to find a good, knowledgeable old fart, (or young fart), to help
with leading in the body panels(body solder). Seattle area. Help, anyone?
Thanks
JR
Dweller in the cellar

Greetings JR,
You will find that once you get the hang of it that it is real easy.
You can build up a surface quickly, melt part off if too proud, smooth
with a cloth, etc. It's kinda fun. And much more satisfying than using
bondo. I wonder if the lead free solder would was well as lead.
Probably not. It's probably too brittle or will become too brittle.
The biggest problem with leading is sanding and creating fines and
dust. It's amazing how little lead you have to ingest to make yourself
sick.
ERS

On Sun, 23 Oct 2005 11:31:06 -0700, JR North wrote:

Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

I need to find a good, knowledgeable old fart, (or young fart), to help
with leading in the body panels(body solder). Seattle area. Help, anyone?
Thanks
JR
Dweller in the cellar


No help on the leadwork, but I hope that the moron to rear-ended you is paying
for your time! Co-incidentally, has anyone ever been sued/charged for causing
excessive damage/injuries in a crash due to modifying their vehicle and
compromising its safety (fender height etc)?


Mark Rand
RTFN

Steve W. wrote:
... Don't use
propane for heating because it puts a LOT of water onto the parts and
can cause rust under the lead when it is trapped in a seam. ...

Hmmm ... how can (liquid) water exist on a part that's hot enough to
melt lead? Bob

On Mon, 24 Oct 2005 17:56:11 -0400, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Steve W. wrote:
... Don't use
propane for heating because it puts a LOT of water onto the parts and
can cause rust under the lead when it is trapped in a seam. ...

Hmmm ... how can (liquid) water exist on a part that's hot enough to
melt lead? Bob

Also, what hydrocarbon can I oxidize that won't end up giving me water
vapor, I wonder?

On Mon, 24 Oct 2005 17:56:11 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Steve W. wrote:
... Don't use
propane for heating because it puts a LOT of water onto the parts and
can cause rust under the lead when it is trapped in a seam. ...

Hmmm ... how can (liquid) water exist on a part that's hot enough to
melt lead? Bob

Old wive's tale. Propane burning in air makes no more "water" than
acet in oxy.

JR North wrote:

Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

I need to find a good, knowledgeable old fart, (or young fart), to help
with leading in the body panels(body solder). Seattle area. Help, anyone?
Thanks
JR
Dweller in the cellar

So what happened with the jerk in the truck?

Wes
--
Reply to:
Whiskey Echo Sierra Sierra AT Alpha Charlie Echo Golf Romeo Oscar Paul dot Charlie Charlie
Lycos address is a spam trap.

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
Steve W. wrote:
... Don't use
propane for heating because it puts a LOT of water onto the parts
and
can cause rust under the lead when it is trapped in a seam. ...

Hmmm ... how can (liquid) water exist on a part that's hot enough to
melt lead? Bob

The problem is the entire panel is not that hot. As you heat the area to
be leaded you have areas close by that are not hot enough to evaporate
the water. With Propane you get a LOT of water vapor that condenses onto
those areas and causes problems. When I do lead I use the A/O torch to
heat fast and smaller areas which cuts down on warpage and makes for
less metal working.

As far as it being an old wives tale about propane not leaving a lot of
water in the air. I have seen it cause rust in shops where it was used
in an open heater. Just because of the excess water vapor in the air.



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Yes you can, but the kits are OK for folks who want to get started and
don't have a real clue how to start.
As for other sources check Hemmings for lead ingots and sticks, you can
make your own flux and even tinning butter if you want to bother with
it.

--
Steve

"JR North" wrote in message
...
Looks like I'll go the Eastwood route(no sources here), and do it
myself. After all, I can do anything I try. I removed the original
body
solder when taking the car apart, so it's just the reverse, with a
little 'hand' for good measure.
BTW: you can put together a better lead 'kit' at Eastwood by ordering
individual components instead of the kits they sell.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

JR North wrote:
Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

I need to find a good, knowledgeable old fart, (or young fart), to
help
with leading in the body panels(body solder). Seattle area. Help,
anyone?
Thanks
JR
Dweller in the cellar



--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Steve W. wrote:
"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...

Steve W. wrote:

... Don't use
propane for heating because it puts a LOT of water onto the parts

and

can cause rust under the lead when it is trapped in a seam. ...

Hmmm ... how can (liquid) water exist on a part that's hot enough to
melt lead? Bob


The problem is the entire panel is not that hot. As you heat the area to
be leaded you have areas close by that are not hot enough to evaporate
the water. ...

OK, but I was responding to the part about "... rust under the lead ..."

POR-15 makes a few body fillers and I have had great success with them.
http://por15store.com under the fillers and puttys section. It is a
little pricey also, but I really like it and would recommend paying the
extra for it.