"JR North" wrote in message
.. .
Back on the Roadster Project. The series is he
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/acc2.html

I need to find a good, knowledgeable old fart, (or young fart), to
help
with leading in the body panels(body solder). Seattle area. Help,
anyone?
Thanks
JR
Dweller in the cellar

--

Leadwork CAN be a bit different. Big thing is to clean the parts REAL
well and remove any grease/oil/dirt. Even handprints will cause it to
fail. You can buy the paddles and lead from Eastwood, they have a kit as
well that includes a video that is pretty good as well. I use a O/A with
a VERY wide tip to do most of my heating, you want to heat the area
larger than you plan to lead to allow the lead to feather at the edges,
then you remove most of it with the body files. Then you do metal
finishing with files/heat and hammers to cure any small warped areas
(careful use of just enough heat will prevent them a lot) Don't use
propane for heating because it puts a LOT of water onto the parts and
can cause rust under the lead when it is trapped in a seam. Seams can be
cleaned and tinned prior to assembly as well which will bond the parts
together and keep the seam from shifting. On fixed panel seams
(roofline/QP/Rear valance areas) you just heat from behind and allow the
lead to flow into the seam (like sweating a pipe joint). For a first
timer I suggest extra tinning butter and a couple extra flex files
(takes a bit to get used to adjusting them). Seasoned maple, and oak
work well for custom paddles if you don't want to buy extras (they get
charred during use). Your going to want a respirator to keep from
breathing the lead fumes. Light sunglasses also make it easier to watch
the flowing lead.

Looked at the Roadster pages. Nice work so far.

Steve W.



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