hey everyone,

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?

I've seen the Infrared heaters in home centers and costcos... are they
more efficient?

Cost is a factor for me.

Thanks,

James, Seattle

RainLover wrote:

hey everyone,

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?

I've seen the Infrared heaters in home centers and costcos... are they
more efficient?

Cost is a factor for me.

Doesn't the basic combustion of hydrocarbons yield CO2 and H2O? I'd sure worry
about water vapor in my shop. Is yours insulated?

I use yard sale electric heaters right in my work area when I get cold in my
shop in the winter. I see those oil-filled radiator thingys all the time,
standard YS price is five bucks.

Cost is a factor for me too, and likely always will be.

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington

RainLover:
I also need help on this same topic. I don't mean to parachute in on
your post, but I just had one of those cooler periods here in St.
Louis, followed by a warm humid period and my machines and tools are
getting wet and rusting! My shop is smaller 400 sq ft. and is a
converted detached garge. I'd like to ask anyone posting on this topic
to include smaller shop solutions as well. I am considering a window
heat/cool combo unit. Thanks
-Mike

On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 10:14:24 -0700, RainLover
wrote:

hey everyone,

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?

I've seen the Infrared heaters in home centers and costcos... are they
more efficient?

Cost is a factor for me.

Thanks,

James, Seattle
Greetings James,
My shop is sort of like a quonset hut too. I use radiant heat. A big
tube with a burner at one end. It's 150,000 BTU and will drive you
right out of the 30 x 40 shop. It heats objects, not the air, which I
like. I want warm tools and cool air. There's a fan in my shop that
blows the air down when it gets warm so there is some circulation.
And it doesn't blow cold air. The forced air heaters will blow cold
air until the whole shop is warm. So if you are at the opposite end of
the shop from the heater even though the air out of the heater is warm
it will be cool by the time it gets to you. And it will blow right
down your neck. If you shop is not insulated and you exhaust a propane
heater into the shop, even with proper ventilation, the water from
combustion will condense on the building and rain down on you.
I know, I've been there.
Eric R Snow

RainLover:
I also need help on this same topic. I don't mean to parachute in on
your post, but I just had one of those cooler periods here in St.
Louis, followed by a warm humid period and my machines and tools are
getting wet and rusting! My shop is smaller 400 sq ft. and is a
converted detached garge. I'd like to ask anyone posting on this topic
to include smaller shop solutions as well. I am considering a window
heat/cool combo unit. Thanks
-Mike

The direct flame heaters like the classic bullet heaters are only for
temporaty use. The chemistry combustion will tell you that for every
gallon of fuel you use, you will nearly a gallon of water vapor (exact
ratio depends on exactly the hydrocarbon you are burning) My 115k BTU
kerosene heater uses a gallon an hour, puts a gallon of water into the
air. It's not a big issue for the center of the garage, the tools
sitting in the far corner tend to get rusty. Not too mention the issue
of Carbon Monoxide poisoning if your burned is misadjusted or
malfunctioning. I've had it once, survived the experience, it was NOT fun.

The infra red gas heaters have the same issues, you are pumping water
into the area, you are not venting the fumes outside.

Since the building is built, skip the in floor hydronic heat. Nice and
even but hard to retrofit.

You are left with forced air or tube infra red. Both are good, the
forced air warms the air, makes it nice to work. Infra red warms the
equipment, you will still want to wear a vest.

consider getting a used home furnace. tear outs are common as folks
upgrade to higher effiency units. I've seen 5 year old units show up on
www.craigslist.com in the free section. $50 to $100 should get you an
80k btu unit with 80% effiency. Use a standard plennum on top, fix up 2
or 3 8" round ducts a few feet long to get some air flow to the areas
you want.

RainLover wrote:

hey everyone,

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?

I've seen the Infrared heaters in home centers and costcos... are they
more efficient?

Cost is a factor for me.

Thanks,

James, Seattle

On 3 Oct 2005 10:29:40 -0700, "mlcorson"
wrote:

RainLover:
I also need help on this same topic. I don't mean to parachute in on
your post, but I just had one of those cooler periods here in St.
Louis, followed by a warm humid period and my machines and tools are
getting wet and rusting! My shop is smaller 400 sq ft. and is a
converted detached garge. I'd like to ask anyone posting on this topic
to include smaller shop solutions as well. I am considering a window
heat/cool combo unit. Thanks
-Mike


Hey Mike,

Won't "fix" everything, but a couple of those 10 to 20 dollar Wal-Mart
ceiling fans (no lights) left running blowing "down" constantly will
help decrease the rust formation. Won't do anything to remove rust
once it's started, but sure helps to slow it down from starting.

Helps to keep the heat off the "peak" and circulating too James, but
run them "up".

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

hey everyone,

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?

I've seen the Infrared heaters in home centers and costcos... are they
more efficient?

Cost is a factor for me.

Thanks,

James, Seattle
Pellet stove?
Ken.

If you use a propane or natural gas heater both will work fine PROVIDED
that they are both properly vented to the outside of your shop with
some form of a chimney.

The majority of wall mounted gas heaters that I am familiar with
provide a connection for an outside vent as part of their design. Be
sure that you connect it properly.

Harry C.

"RainLover" wrote in message
...
hey everyone,

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?

I've seen the Infrared heaters in home centers and costcos... are they
more efficient?

Cost is a factor for me.

Thanks,

James, Seattle

I agree with the home tear out route. Watch the curbs for some upright
furnace and make sure it is vented properly.
An amazing amount of heat is put out by a home de-humidifier, the little
small roll around types which you will often find in garage sales for
$10.00. It will pull the water out of the air and heat up the area quite
well. I've got two shop rooms that are 1500 sqft each 10ft ceilings and one
de-humidifier in each room adds about 3-5 degrees in the cold days. Eats up
a bit of electric but worth getting the water out of the air.

Pedroman

According to Pedroman :

"RainLover" wrote in message
...
hey everyone,

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?

One consideration is that burning *any* fuel in the shop creates
water vapor (burning the hydrogen in the fuel) as well as CO2 (from the
carbon part of the fuel).

Since you are starting out from a cold shop, the air will heat
up first, and hold more of the water vapor, and the machine tool
surfaces will take some time to catch up in temperature, so the water
vapor will condense on the metal, thus risking serious rust problems.

An electric heater keeps the air dryer, as does a heat pump.
Both will cost more to run -- but are less likely to damage your machine
tools.

You say "studio" heat -- so you may or may not have machine
tools there to be damaged.

Enjoy,
DoN.


--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"RainLover" wrote in message
...
hey everyone,

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?

I've seen the Infrared heaters in home centers and costcos... are they
more efficient?

Cost is a factor for me.

Thanks,

James, Seattle

How much is your life worth? I mean, aside from the $ .98 cents worth of
chemicals you are made up of.

Go down and buy a Kidde CO alarm with a memory and a digital readout. This
will tell you the current CO level, and the highest level it has been since
the last reset. They are $30.

Doing propane in a confined space is a stupid thing to do, and so stupid
that even OSHA frowns on it.

So, whatever you try, whatever you experiment with, do it safely, and get a
CO monitor to keep track of it so your loved ones don't find you paws up on
the floor one morning, one degree above room temperature.

Steve

Hello!

My workshop ccnsists of half of my two-car garage. After abusing my
machine tools for several years by not heating the garage (and here in
upstate New York that means a very cold workspace in the winter), I
installed a celing-mounted heater, fed with propane from exterior
tanks. The heater exhausts through a vent pipe to the outside.

This has proved to be an excellent solution to my heating needs: the
machines, and my bodfy, are kept from freezing, and there are no
problems with condensation. The heating contractor who installed the
heater urged me to insulate the garage, so I installed a framework of
2X6's and put in thick fiberglass insulation bats. My machines (and our
car) love the space now.

George

In article , RainLover
wrote:

hey everyone,

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?

I've seen the Infrared heaters in home centers and costcos... are they
more efficient?

Cost is a factor for me.

Thanks,

James, Seattle

Hi,
I heat my basement shop with wood. The woodstove came from Navy City
Metals in Gorst ie cheap. Last year I burned a lot of scrap wood from a
wood shop. The wood was nice and dry. It did need to be cut shorter
to fit the stove and one did have to watch for nails. But the price is
right. Now one can only install a certified stove so useable wood
stoves are harder to find and more expensive to buy.

I don't think you should use wood as your only source of heat. It is
not economical when you consider the time it costs you. But I would
sure recommend it over no heat at all and if you generate any wood
scrap it will help you get rid of it.

Dan

RainLover wrote:

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.


Cost is a factor for me.

Thanks,

James, Seattle

hey everyone,

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?

I've seen the Infrared heaters in home centers and costcos... are they
more efficient?

Cost is a factor for me.

Thanks,

James, Seattle
Sending this another time in case it didn't go through...
Pellet stove? Pretty much automatic, safe, approved, cheap, clean
dry, efficient, etc., etc., etc.
Ken.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?

I've seen the Infrared heaters in home centers and costcos... are they
more efficient?

Cost is a factor for me.

1. As folks have suggested, a fan or fans as high up as you can get
them shall serve admirably. The object is not to blast the air, but
merely to bring the air at the top down to floor level to just kiss the
floor, so to speak.
2. Any insulation you can apply will yield a rather handsome return on
your investment.
3. Propane as a fuel is acceptable. The heater that you use must needs
be a vented one. Anything less is inapproriate for the task you
describe. If you want infrared, it will work to heat people & objects
in front of it as also heat the air like a blue flame heater. One is
not more efficient than the other; the former has 2 ways of heating
while the latter has 1 way of heating.
They shall both emit the same amount of Btu, if you compare any 2 that
are rated at the same heat output.
4. Unfortunately heating is no longer cheap. You may find ways to
reduce cost, (buying used equipment as opposed to new), but you should
now mentally accept that heating is an expensive part of living,
depending on where you are on the planet. Hope this helps.
Ashoke - heating.products.bz/lptype.html

wrote:
Hi,
I heat my basement shop with wood. The woodstove came from Navy City
Metals in Gorst ie cheap. Last year I burned a lot of scrap wood from a
wood shop. The wood was nice and dry. It did need to be cut shorter
to fit the stove and one did have to watch for nails. But the price is
right. Now one can only install a certified stove so useable wood
stoves are harder to find and more expensive to buy.

I don't think you should use wood as your only source of heat. It is
not economical when you consider the time it costs you. But I would
sure recommend it over no heat at all and if you generate any wood
scrap it will help you get rid of it.

I do the same thing. My shop came with a woodstove built from a
55-gallon drum. I separate shop trash into burnable and not. So I get
rid of paper towels, newspaper etc that is soaked with oil or anything
else. Same with wood scaps, cardboard, old crossties removed from
landscapng etc. If I keep it hot no noticable odor comes fro the stack.
Here in N Texas I rarely have to supplement the scrap and discards with
real firewood. But there's plenty of that that I won't burn in my
fireplace at home.
My intention is to convert it to waste oil by adding a compressed air
line blowing across a tee-fitting to spray the oil into the drum. I'll
start it by burning the usual waste, then cut in the oil as it burns down.

On Tue, 04 Oct 2005 09:14:54 -0500, Rex B wrote:


BIG SNIP
My intention is to convert it to waste oil by adding a compressed air
line blowing across a tee-fitting to spray the oil into the drum. I'll
start it by burning the usual waste, then cut in the oil as it burns down.


Hey Rex,

The compressed air is not necessary. If you "dribble" the used oil in
at the top of the fire box, a drop or so per 1 to 5 seconds, and
provide a splash/catch pot near the bottom of the fire chamber, that
will suffice. As the drops fall through the flame, they "pre-heat"
and when they hit the splash/catch pan, the striking/splashing on the
hot can vapourizes them and the oil burns quite nicely, almost as a
gas. It does require a pre-existing fire to get started though, to
heat the can and rod. An old "space heater" is perfect.

In the "old days" we would hang a coffee tin (1 or 2 pound tin??) on
an 8" long 1/4" steel rod poked though the tin from side to side just
below the open end, and hung across the space heaters existing fire
ring The drops would actually hit the red-hot rod, and create such a
heat as to make the whole stove "dance" from the combustion
reactions, and get very hot if you let too much oil flow. At an
un-educated guess, I would think that this created a BTU output factor
of roughly 4 times what the highest setting using just the proper
stove oil (like a kerosene), and the stove flow valve.

These proper space heaters had a fire-box access door for lighting
them with a match to ignite the stove oil, so ready-made access to do
what we did.

Try something like this first, before you get all elaborate.
Admittedly, you won't want this to be left un-attended for any length
of time.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

"RainLover" wrote in message
...
hey everyone,

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?

I've seen the Infrared heaters in home centers and costcos... are they
more efficient?

Cost is a factor for me.

Thanks,

James, Seattle

Heat pumps generally work pretty well in the Pacific northwest--a 3-1/2 ton
unit should probly do okay for a building that size, so long as it's
insulated fairly well.

You would want to have 10 ~ 15 kw of backup heat strips installed in it for
in the rare case our outside temps drop into the low 30's or lower.....that
or else oversize the unit towards additional heating capacity....just
realize that an oversized unit won't de-humidify as well during our (
relatively short ) summer cooling season.

--

SVL

Brian
I appreciate the input. I recall the old stoves when I was a kid
visiting some backwoods shop with a drip WOH.

I've been thinking about this a while. The reasons I'm leaning toward
compressed air:

1 - From what I've read, it's makes the hottest flame, the quickest. I'm
more insterested in complete combustion than BTU output, but quick heat
is desirable. I typically get to the shop at about 6:30 and work till
10:00, so the quicker I get heat, the more I can get done. I don't want
any black smoke coming out of the stack to bother my neighbors, who are
pretty closeby. This shop is situated in a mobile home community.
2 - Drip feed means I'd probably want the waste oil source at a higher
level than the stove. That would make it inconvenient to pour into.
With compressed air the venturi vacuum would siphon out of a floor-level
drum.
3 - The drop distance I'd have would be whatever I could get out of a
55-gallon drum on it's side, less the height of the catch-pan, so the
oil would only drop about 14". Would that be enough?
4 - With the oil feed entering the hottest part of the firebox, I'd be
concerned about carbon or gunk buildup from oil residue at the opening.

Brian Lawson wrote:
On Tue, 04 Oct 2005 09:14:54 -0500, Rex B wrote:


BIG SNIP

My intention is to convert it to waste oil by adding a compressed air
line blowing across a tee-fitting to spray the oil into the drum. I'll
start it by burning the usual waste, then cut in the oil as it burns down.



Hey Rex,

The compressed air is not necessary. If you "dribble" the used oil in
at the top of the fire box, a drop or so per 1 to 5 seconds, and
provide a splash/catch pot near the bottom of the fire chamber, that
will suffice. As the drops fall through the flame, they "pre-heat"
and when they hit the splash/catch pan, the striking/splashing on the
hot can vapourizes them and the oil burns quite nicely, almost as a
gas. It does require a pre-existing fire to get started though, to
heat the can and rod. An old "space heater" is perfect.

In the "old days" we would hang a coffee tin (1 or 2 pound tin??) on
an 8" long 1/4" steel rod poked though the tin from side to side just
below the open end, and hung across the space heaters existing fire
ring The drops would actually hit the red-hot rod, and create such a
heat as to make the whole stove "dance" from the combustion
reactions, and get very hot if you let too much oil flow. At an
un-educated guess, I would think that this created a BTU output factor
of roughly 4 times what the highest setting using just the proper
stove oil (like a kerosene), and the stove flow valve.

These proper space heaters had a fire-box access door for lighting
them with a match to ignite the stove oil, so ready-made access to do
what we did.

Try something like this first, before you get all elaborate.
Admittedly, you won't want this to be left un-attended for any length
of time.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 16:08:43 -0400, Brian Lawson
wrote:

On 3 Oct 2005 10:29:40 -0700, "mlcorson"
wrote:

RainLover:
I also need help on this same topic. I don't mean to parachute in on
your post, but I just had one of those cooler periods here in St.
Louis, followed by a warm humid period and my machines and tools are
getting wet and rusting! My shop is smaller 400 sq ft. and is a
converted detached garge. I'd like to ask anyone posting on this topic
to include smaller shop solutions as well. I am considering a window
heat/cool combo unit. Thanks
-Mike


Hey Mike,

Won't "fix" everything, but a couple of those 10 to 20 dollar Wal-Mart
ceiling fans (no lights) left running blowing "down" constantly will
help decrease the rust formation. Won't do anything to remove rust
once it's started, but sure helps to slow it down from starting.

Helps to keep the heat off the "peak" and circulating too James, but
run them "up".

Ah! genious... I was worried about fans effecting my welding, but
placing them on 'reverse' would run the heat down my perfectly CURVED
walls and do my awaiting chilly feet.

And people think Canadians are dumb...... HA!

James, Seattle

On Tue, 04 Oct 2005 10:51:40 GMT, Ken Sterling (Ken Sterling) wrote:

hey everyone,

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?

I've seen the Infrared heaters in home centers and costcos... are they
more efficient?

Cost is a factor for me.

Thanks,

James, Seattle
Sending this another time in case it didn't go through...
Pellet stove? Pretty much automatic, safe, approved, cheap, clean
dry, efficient, etc., etc., etc.
Ken.


Thanks for all the suggestions. My studio is insulated and DOES have
a lot of metal equipment in it (welders, tools, etc), so the moisture
problem of propane will need to be looked into.

I don't have a lot of floorspace for a pellet stove, although that
sounds like a way to go, especially if I combine it with some ceiling
fans getting the heat down my way.

Do those Propane infrared tube heaters put much moisture into the air?
I could see placing one above my 1" thick steel work table and using
the table as a radiator, keeping the heat around where I work.

Thanks for all the input so far!

james, Seattle (actually, port orchard and rummages around Navy City
all the time)

http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_...earth/me4.html

http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/oilburners.html

Im collecting Stuff for a waste oil heater. I will likely build the
Mother Earths one.

Gunner

Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to
clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are
so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry

Gunner wrote:
http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_...earth/me4.html

http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/oilburners.html

Im collecting Stuff for a waste oil heater. I will likely build the
Mother Earths one.

Gunner

Yep, that's my backup plan. My current woodstove is made from a
55-gallon drum. I don't know how long it will go before burning out or
through, but so far it's OK. I salvage a good hot water tank from my
rent house to build the Mother Earth version.

On Tue, 04 Oct 2005 10:51:40 GMT, Ken Sterling (Ken Sterling) wrote:

Sending this another time in case it didn't go through...
Pellet stove? Pretty much automatic, safe, approved, cheap, clean
dry, efficient, etc., etc., etc.
Ken.

Gotta disagree with that option. Had one in my shop for 1 1/2 years
and it was a high maintenence bastid. Had to clean/vaccuum it out at
least once a month, usually twice or more during cold weather (also
near Poulsbo, WA). That, combined with crappy pellets, and getting a
ton at a time, caused me to give it away to a guy who made a Traeger
style smoker out of it ; ) Even a small percentage of crumbled
pellets or pellet dust would clog up the auger.

It had replaced a double barreled wood stove. I just got sick of
cutting, splitting, stacking firewood and stoking that thing.

Ended up going with an outside vented propane fireplace:
http://mendota-gas-fireplaces.com/ flush mounted on the back wall
with an enclosed exterior chimney for the vent. It's a 60k btu unit
that was given to me by a friend who works for the company and it
heats both floors of my 24' x 32' shop quite nicely. No moisture
problems at all.

I'm in Mason County and they wouldn't allow me to install a 250 gal
propane tank under the outside stairs... but, they do allow you to
install two 125 gal tanks, one saddled on top of the other... go
figure.

Anyway, I like the convenience of an outside vented propane heater
best so far.

Good luck!

Snarl

On Tue, 04 Oct 2005 17:20:04 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_...earth/me4.html

http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/oilburners.html

Im collecting Stuff for a waste oil heater. I will likely build the
Mother Earths one.

Gunner

I've been thinking about adding supplemental WO burning to my shop
wood burner for a while now. One problem I've heard of with the
needle valve drip setup is that as the oil gets hotter and thinner it
drips faster and faster. That causes you to be the feedback device to
keep the drip from overheating the stove, or getting too rich and then
smoking. In my case, I don't want to burn only WO, but just to
supplement the wood fire with a occasional shot of it.
I'm planning on building a small, say 1/2 to 1 oz piston pump
actuated by a solenoid or an eccentric cam to deliver a fixed volume
of WO at an adjustable interval. THis would just be a piston with the
appropriate check valves to make it pump one way. I've been thinking
about using the 555 timer circuit published in the 12/2000 1/2001 HSM
magazine titled "A new electronic circuit for Glenn Wilson's Coolant
pump" It does seem however that a better circuit might keep the
solenoid energized for say 1/2 a second to finish the pump stroke if
the oil is thick and cold and a cap discharge doesn't fully stroke the
pump. This way there would be not need to preheat the oil, the volume
would the same if it was axle oil or trans oil, hot or cold. It would
also be easier to turn off if you left the shop, and turn back on to
the same setting later when you added a big fresh log to the fire.

I'm also planning on insulating the ceiling in my shop, a 30' x 40'
pole barn with 12' ceilings. Now all the heat does is speed the
frequency of the drips of melting snow that come off the roof. I want
to hang bats of fiberglass from the trusses (2' on center) but I would
like to find some foil backed insulation to keep the shop as bright as
possible. 6" thick fiberglass is my plan, with firing strips to hold
it up. I thought of tyvek, its white, but adds another few hundred $
and the insulation will already have a vapor barrier. Sheet goods are
the same, more money, and I really don't need them, or the hassle of
hanging them over a too full shop. Insulation itself will be a bad
enough job. Any ideas where to get shiny foil backed insulation? I
know it used to be made.
Brad - in Michigan
Brad Heuver

RainLover wrote:

hey everyone,

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?

I've seen the Infrared heaters in home centers and costcos... are they
more efficient?

Cost is a factor for me.

Thanks,

James, Seattle


The first thing you got to do is to put up a ceiling fan to blow down
the heat collecting at the ceiling.
This will save you a ton of money.


John

There are several brands of direct vent pellet, NG, and propane heaters
that do not add combustion products to the inside air. They are not
cheap, but they will prevent the excess humidity build up.

DoN. Nichols wrote:
According to Pedroman :

"RainLover" wrote in message
. ..

hey everyone,

Winter's right around the corner and after 2 years without studio
heat, I MAY finally be able to do something about it.

I have a 1,500 (30' x 50') sf studio with 17' high ceilings (Quonset
hut, so only the peek is that high)

I've been leaning towards a propane tank outside and one of those
propane-powered shop heaters mounted up on an end wall. Are these the
best way to go? any other suggestions?


One consideration is that burning *any* fuel in the shop creates
water vapor (burning the hydrogen in the fuel) as well as CO2 (from the
carbon part of the fuel).

Since you are starting out from a cold shop, the air will heat
up first, and hold more of the water vapor, and the machine tool
surfaces will take some time to catch up in temperature, so the water
vapor will condense on the metal, thus risking serious rust problems.

An electric heater keeps the air dryer, as does a heat pump.
Both will cost more to run -- but are less likely to damage your machine
tools.

You say "studio" heat -- so you may or may not have machine
tools there to be damaged.

Enjoy,
DoN.