"Ignoramus8644" wrote in message
...
Just got myself a used 1/2 HP baldor grinder. It has openings in the
back of the wheel guards, for dust collector or some such. I am
thinking about attaching a shop vac to these openings. Is this plan
fatally flawed, or is it workable?

i

Nothing wrong with the idea, but be advised that if the vacuum is used for
collecting combustible materials, saw dust, for example, you'll eventually
set it on fire with sparks from grinding steel. Use caution unless it's
a dedicated collector, strictly for your grinder.

Harold

I'm sure there are many kinds of motors for vacuum cleaners, but 2 that
come to mind are "sucks right through the motor" and bypass. Even
though, I suppose, the filters are in between the dirty air and the
motor, I would think that the motor bearings would be fouled with minute
metal particles if you don't use the bypass style.

In addition to the wood dust problem mentioned in another post, I
have heard of runors about steel and aluminum particles combining
vigorously, too.

Pete Stanaitis
--------------------------

Ignoramus8644 wrote:

Just got myself a used 1/2 HP baldor grinder. It has openings in the
back of the wheel guards, for dust collector or some such. I am
thinking about attaching a shop vac to these openings. Is this plan
fatally flawed, or is it workable?

i

Sparks off the grinder are pretty hot, likely to eventually melt the
plastic hose. Not to mention adding the hot steel to the bottom of the
shop dust and sawdust and having a bonfire.

I do set my 6x48" belt sander up with a shop vac for wood sanding. Does
a great job of keeping the dust under control.

Ignoramus8644 wrote:
Just got myself a used 1/2 HP baldor grinder. It has openings in the
back of the wheel guards, for dust collector or some such. I am
thinking about attaching a shop vac to these openings. Is this plan
fatally flawed, or is it workable?

i

Ignoramus8644 wrote:

Just got myself a used 1/2 HP baldor grinder. It has openings in the
back of the wheel guards, for dust collector or some such. I am
thinking about attaching a shop vac to these openings. Is this plan
fatally flawed, or is it workable?

Are the openings round or oval? If oval, you'd have to figure the circumference,
find the equivalent sized round piece of PVC, heat it in hot water, and flatten
it to fit, or something like that. Not real trivial.

GWE

Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:
"Ignoramus8644" wrote in message
...

Just got myself a used 1/2 HP baldor grinder. It has openings in the
back of the wheel guards, for dust collector or some such. I am
thinking about attaching a shop vac to these openings. Is this plan
fatally flawed, or is it workable?

i


Nothing wrong with the idea, but be advised that if the vacuum is used for
collecting combustible materials, saw dust, for example, you'll eventually
set it on fire with sparks from grinding steel. Use caution unless it's
a dedicated collector, strictly for your grinder.

Put the vac a distance away, for the noise abatement.
Make the intake of thinwall tubing. Run it into a 5-gallon bucket with a
n air-tight lid, with the end of the tub about 3 inches from the bottom.
Fill 3/4-full of water. Attach vac hose to the lid so it pull air from
atop the water.
This way any sparks will wind up in the water, the water will filter the
air enroute to the vac.

Keep the water level up, as it will evaporate.
Be sure the vac is wet-or-dry.

No personal knowledge or experience here but note the CAUTION in the
following howto article:

http://billpentz.com/woodworking/PVC.html

Lots of good dust collection info on this site though primarily oriented
towards woodworking.

David Merrill

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Ignoramus8644 wrote:

Just got myself a used 1/2 HP baldor grinder. It has openings in the
back of the wheel guards, for dust collector or some such. I am
thinking about attaching a shop vac to these openings. Is this plan
fatally flawed, or is it workable?

Are the openings round or oval? If oval, you'd have to figure the
circumference,
find the equivalent sized round piece of PVC, heat it in hot water, and
flatten
it to fit, or something like that. Not real trivial.

GWE

On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 19:36:39 GMT, David Merrill wrote:
No personal knowledge or experience here but note the CAUTION in the
following howto article:

http://billpentz.com/woodworking/PVC.html

Lots of good dust collection info on this site though primarily oriented
towards woodworking.

Ow, my eyes.

I got a hepa filter for my SS ShopVac - It is a bit larger than the paper
and it was clean - the delta was some difference I noticed. I was picking
steel cutoffs off the floor easily.
Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Ignoramus8644 wrote:
On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 14:13:36 -0500, spaco wrote:

I'm sure there are many kinds of motors for vacuum cleaners, but 2 that
come to mind are "sucks right through the motor" and bypass. Even
though, I suppose, the filters are in between the dirty air and the
motor, I would think that the motor bearings would be fouled with minute
metal particles if you don't use the bypass style.

In addition to the wood dust problem mentioned in another post, I
have heard of runors about steel and aluminum particles combining
vigorously, too.


My "6 Peak HP" ShopVac from Home Depot sucks through the motor, but
uses a paper filter. It's served me pretty reliably over the last 3
years, so far.

i


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Xenophon wrote:
Rex B wrote:


Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

"Ignoramus8644" wrote in message
...

Just got myself a used 1/2 HP baldor grinder. It has openings in the
back of the wheel guards, for dust collector or some such. I am
thinking about attaching a shop vac to these openings. Is this plan
fatally flawed, or is it workable?

i




Nothing wrong with the idea, but be advised that if the vacuum is
used for
collecting combustible materials, saw dust, for example, you'll
eventually
set it on fire with sparks from grinding steel. Use caution
unless it's
a dedicated collector, strictly for your grinder.



Put the vac a distance away, for the noise abatement.
Make the intake of thinwall tubing. Run it into a 5-gallon bucket with
a n air-tight lid, with the end of the tub about 3 inches from the
bottom. Fill 3/4-full of water. Attach vac hose to the lid so it pull
air from atop the water.
This way any sparks will wind up in the water, the water will filter
the air enroute to the vac.

Keep the water level up, as it will evaporate.
Be sure the vac is wet-or-dry.


I saw a similar setup in a shop using a 10# coffee can and no water. A
thin plate was welded to the top of the can and a hole cut into it. with
a hole cut into the side of the can near the bottom. the bottom hole
was connected to the grinder and the top hole connected to the vacuum
cleaner. This way most of the sparks went into the can and only the
smallest lightest ones made it into the vacuum plus they had to travel
so much that they were cold by the time they hit the vacuum anyways.
The can was placed at the bottom of the grinder but the vacuum was about
6 feet away under a bench.

That setup would certainly be less restrictive and would be
lower-maintenance than the water trap.

Rex B wrote:

Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

"Ignoramus8644" wrote in message
...

Just got myself a used 1/2 HP baldor grinder. It has openings in the
back of the wheel guards, for dust collector or some such. I am
thinking about attaching a shop vac to these openings. Is this plan
fatally flawed, or is it workable?

i



Nothing wrong with the idea, but be advised that if the vacuum is
used for
collecting combustible materials, saw dust, for example, you'll
eventually
set it on fire with sparks from grinding steel. Use caution
unless it's
a dedicated collector, strictly for your grinder.


Put the vac a distance away, for the noise abatement.
Make the intake of thinwall tubing. Run it into a 5-gallon bucket with a
n air-tight lid, with the end of the tub about 3 inches from the bottom.
Fill 3/4-full of water. Attach vac hose to the lid so it pull air from
atop the water.
This way any sparks will wind up in the water, the water will filter the
air enroute to the vac.

Keep the water level up, as it will evaporate.
Be sure the vac is wet-or-dry.

I saw a similar setup in a shop using a 10# coffee can and no water. A
thin plate was welded to the top of the can and a hole cut into it.
with a hole cut into the side of the can near the bottom. the bottom
hole was connected to the grinder and the top hole connected to the
vacuum cleaner. This way most of the sparks went into the can and only
the smallest lightest ones made it into the vacuum plus they had to
travel so much that they were cold by the time they hit the vacuum
anyways. The can was placed at the bottom of the grinder but the vacuum
was about 6 feet away under a bench.

That setup would certainly be less restrictive and would be
lower-maintenance than the water trap.

I have a 10" baldor bench grinder with a baldor dust collector. You
can look at them in J&L catalog.

The grinding wheel discharge connects to the blower with a rubber
hose. The output of the blower is directly into a large cloth bag.
No water traps or anything fancy. When I got it the cloth bag
was very old and torn, but had obviously survived for years without
a fire.

I think a water trap would be pretty smelly after a short time.
I have considered adding a metal can for a particle trap. Someday.

chuck

On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 17:58:52 GMT, Ignoramus8644
wrote:

Just got myself a used 1/2 HP baldor grinder. It has openings in the
back of the wheel guards, for dust collector or some such. I am
thinking about attaching a shop vac to these openings. Is this plan
fatally flawed, or is it workable?


How about a cyclone device between the vac and the grinder?

Make or scrounge a can, perhaps about the size of a 3 lb coffee can.
Make the inlet (from the grinder) enter tangentially, and the outlet
from the center of one end. The idea is to have the incoming air
make the air inside the can spin. Centrifugal force (centripetal
acceleration for the purists) moves particles outward so they flow
(and fly) around the inside wall of the can. This might have two
beneficial effects: the particles would be cooled by contact
(collisions) with the inside wall, and they would have a much longer
path between inlet and outlet which further promotes cooling before
they enter the shopvac hose. Heavier particles (that cool more
slowly) may just stay in the can if the inlet is at the top pointing
a bit downward and the outlet is also at the top.