I looked on the web, and did not find an answer to some basic questions
about the South Bend 9 x 20 lathe (Yes, I know that there are different
models). I know zilch about lathes, never run one. I don't have any
buddies with lathes, so I would probably take a course at the local
community college.

Roughly how big are they? What is the footprint?

How much do they weigh?

Any good webpages on how to inspect one or value it? I know wear is a
big issue, so look for slop. The electric motor is another, I don't
have three phase in my shop, and a VFD is $200 or so. The webpage below
seems like a good place to start.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/page2.html

I understand that accessories can cost as much as the lathe. I would
imagine the 3 and 4 jaw chucks are among the more expensive accessories,
but what else is key?

I have probably read a hundred posts on the relative merit of new cheap
lathes from Asia vs. old iron, so no need to rehash that debate. I
would probably not want to undertake a major rebuild, I don't think I
know enough for that to be a good plan.

Thanks,
Richard

I would not worry about the motor - on a smaller lathe like that, you can
easily change to a 110V single phase motor - half horse or 1 horse - others
will provide far better information on the lathe itself than I can


"Richard Ferguson" wrote in message
...
I looked on the web, and did not find an answer to some basic questions
about the South Bend 9 x 20 lathe (Yes, I know that there are different
models). I know zilch about lathes, never run one. I don't have any
buddies with lathes, so I would probably take a course at the local
community college.

Roughly how big are they? What is the footprint?

How much do they weigh?

Any good webpages on how to inspect one or value it? I know wear is a big
issue, so look for slop. The electric motor is another, I don't have
three phase in my shop, and a VFD is $200 or so. The webpage below seems
like a good place to start.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/page2.html

I understand that accessories can cost as much as the lathe. I would
imagine the 3 and 4 jaw chucks are among the more expensive accessories,
but what else is key?

I have probably read a hundred posts on the relative merit of new cheap
lathes from Asia vs. old iron, so no need to rehash that debate. I would
probably not want to undertake a major rebuild, I don't think I know
enough for that to be a good plan.

Thanks,
Richard

In article , Richard
Ferguson says...

Roughly how big are they? What is the footprint?

This depends to a large degree on two factors. 1) is it an underneath
drive model, or the kind with the separate, rear drive. And 2) what
is the bed length.

The bench you put a machine like that on will be a foot or two longer
than the bed length, and if it is a rear drive model, the bench will
realistically be almost four feet deep to make it all fit. If it
is an underneath cabinet drive model, then the size of the cabinet
is the footprint.

How much do they weigh?

If you break the bench lathe down, two folks can lift the largest
part, the bed.

I understand that accessories can cost as much as the lathe. I would
imagine the 3 and 4 jaw chucks are among the more expensive accessories,
but what else is key?

That is a good approximation, tooling cost = lathe cost more or less.

QC toolpost and toolholders, steady rest, chucks, collets, collet setup
are only a few things you will find handy.

Jim


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In article ,
Richard Ferguson wrote:

[ ... ]

I understand that accessories can cost as much as the lathe. I would
imagine the 3 and 4 jaw chucks are among the more expensive accessories,
but what else is key?

Well ... I just got through typing a list of the tooling which
could come with a lathe, and what some of it is useful for. This was in
another thread, asking for a choice between the SB Heavy 10 and a
Clausing 59??.

Rather than re-typing all of that, I'll simply suggest that you
find that thread and read it there. The only things which do not
apply are the references to chuck sizes, QC-toolpost sizes, and collet
sizes -- but everything else should apply.

One thing to watch for in the SB machines is whether it is a
model 'A', 'B', or 'C'. Model 'A' has the full power feed (longitudinal
and cross) with a quick-change gearbox. Model 'C' has only threading
with the "basket of gears" change system, where you tear down one
geartrain and build up another. (This tends to discourage setting the
right feeds for turning, simply because of the inconvenience.) The
model 'B' I think has the power cross-feed and longitudinal, but not the
quick-change gearbox. (Or is it the reverse?) Anyway -- having the
true power feeds reduces wear on the lathe's leadscrew and half-nuts, as
the power is picked off from a keyway which runs the length of the
leadscrew, instead of from the actual Acme threads. As a result, it
only gets wear when actually threading, which is usually a small enough
percentage of the total work so you will be fine.

Good Luck,
DoN.
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Richard Ferguson wrote:
I looked on the web, and did not find an answer to some basic questions
about the South Bend 9 x 20 lathe


Roughly how big are they? What is the footprint?

The three foot bed model has a footprint of 39 3/8" x 33 1/4"

How much do they weigh?

The shipping weight of the Model C was 320 pounds with motor and crate.
I have lifted the bed with headstock out of a car trunk and onto the bench.

Any good webpages on how to inspect one or value it?

Go to mermac.com and read "how to inspect a lathe"

I don't
have three phase in my shop, and a VFD is $200 or so.

Not an issue. It unusual to find one with a three phase motor. These are
small (1/4-1/3-1/2 HP depending on year) motors.

The webpage below
seems like a good place to start.

The Yahoo Southbend lathe group has a lot of information.

I understand that accessories can cost as much as the lathe. I would
imagine the 3 and 4 jaw chucks are among the more expensive accessories,
but what else is key?

I don't have a three jaw for the SB. I work with the headstock Jacobs
chuck, faceplate, and four jaw. The accessories you need will depend on
what you make.


Kevin Gallimore

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In article , DoN. Nichols says...

One thing to watch for in the SB machines is whether it is a
model 'A', 'B', or 'C'. Model 'A' has the full power feed (longitudinal
and cross) with a quick-change gearbox. Model 'C' has only threading
with the "basket of gears" change system, where you tear down one
geartrain and build up another. (This tends to discourage setting the
right feeds for turning, simply because of the inconvenience.) The
model 'B' I think has the power cross-feed and longitudinal, but not the
quick-change gearbox. (Or is it the reverse?)

You were correct DoN.

A = quick change, and lever-selectable X- and L- feeds.

B = no QC, but still has feeds.

C = no QC, no feed worm in the carriage, so any longitudinal feed is
via the halfnuts.

Jim


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please reply to:
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