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| Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Good trouble lights?
A.K.A. Drop Lights. I need one, but all of the ones I've encountered
in the stores are absolute crap. On-line catalogs look like they're the same. I'm just looking for one that's not hard (cheap/brittle/uncomfy) plastic on the outside. The "rubberized" orange and yellow ones with wire cages used to be pretty common in the stores years ago, but not any more. Now it's plastic, plastic, plastic. Sometimes halogen bulbs, sometimes florescent bulbs, but always plastic handles. Usually with cheap, ****ty cords to complete the package. McMaster has one with a rubber handle, but it's $lightly expen$ive. Any other places to look? Except ebay--I hate ebay. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/ |
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#2
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"B.B." wrote: A.K.A. Drop Lights. I need one, but all of the ones I've encountered in the stores are absolute crap. snip there ya go, "Absolute crap". Made somewhere else, and sold in America. I was at home DePost last year and they were tossing a pallete of "trouble lights" that had the rims/reflectors bent due to....trouble. for 12 dollars I got the whole load....I have 3 left that work, and a lot of aluminum spun refectors. The plastic breaks. Duh. *But, hey China! Can't ya'll even make Plastic anymore*? Just wondering ~D |
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#3
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Look for ones made for commercial use. See if you can possibly finds ones
made by McGill or Woodhead or Ericson. You will pay quite a bit more, but you will get commercial quality. Any electrical distributor should be able to order one for you. I believe Crouse Hinds and Appleton even make ones for harzardous environments where it is impossible for the unit to emit any kind of spark that could ignite gases. Try here http://www.ericson.com/products/prod...p?catid=2&id=2 "B.B." u wrote in message news  A.K.A. Drop Lights. I need one, but all of the ones I've encountered in the stores are absolute crap. On-line catalogs look like they're the same. I'm just looking for one that's not hard (cheap/brittle/uncomfy) plastic on the outside. The "rubberized" orange and yellow ones with wire cages used to be pretty common in the stores years ago, but not any more. Now it's plastic, plastic, plastic. Sometimes halogen bulbs, sometimes florescent bulbs, but always plastic handles. Usually with cheap, ****ty cords to complete the package. McMaster has one with a rubber handle, but it's $lightly expen$ive. Any other places to look? Except ebay--I hate ebay. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/ |
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#4
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....
A.K.A. Drop Lights. I need one, but all of the ones I've encountered in the stores are absolute crap. On-line catalogs look like they're the same. .... Man, I hear ya. I've got an antique one that wore out, so I bought another. Threw it away(total crap) and put the old one back up. I really need a decent one, also. If you do find one, please let me know. Karl |
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I don't know what brand, but I bought 2 units for our job shop, fluorescent,
rubberized, yellow, cool to the touch. 6 years in service, with no care, lots of abuse. they just keep going, with original bulbs $100 each, but how many cheepies are you willing to buy in that time span? not to mention broken light bulbs, accidental burns, etc... "B.B." u wrote in message news A.K.A. Drop Lights. I need one, but all of the ones I've encountered in the stores are absolute crap. On-line catalogs look like they're the same. I'm just looking for one that's not hard (cheap/brittle/uncomfy) plastic on the outside. The "rubberized" orange and yellow ones with wire cages used to be pretty common in the stores years ago, but not any more. Now it's plastic, plastic, plastic. Sometimes halogen bulbs, sometimes florescent bulbs, but always plastic handles. Usually with cheap, ****ty cords to complete the package. McMaster has one with a rubber handle, but it's $lightly expen$ive. Any other places to look? Except ebay--I hate ebay. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/ |
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#6
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The orange plastic ones are actually better than metal. More resilient.
Once the metal shield or cage gets distorted, metal ones are annoying to use. I have a 'cheap' HF orange plastic one. It has a magnetic base, which on rare occasion I have found useful. It has a retained thumb screw for the cage, which makes lamp changes easy. It doesn't mind 100W lamps. It articulates in the center; also useful on occasion. Good switch. Has a 3 prong aux socket in the handle. I have been careless with it for 4 years, still in good shape. Like any other trouble light, drop it, and go get another lamp. For a 'cheap' chinese trouble light, I can't bitch. JR Dweller in the cellar B.B. wrote: A.K.A. Drop Lights. I need one, but all of the ones I've encountered in the stores are absolute crap. On-line catalogs look like they're the same. I'm just looking for one that's not hard (cheap/brittle/uncomfy) plastic on the outside. The "rubberized" orange and yellow ones with wire cages used to be pretty common in the stores years ago, but not any more. Now it's plastic, plastic, plastic. Sometimes halogen bulbs, sometimes florescent bulbs, but always plastic handles. Usually with cheap, ****ty cords to complete the package. McMaster has one with a rubber handle, but it's $lightly expen$ive. Any other places to look? Except ebay--I hate ebay. -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses -------------------------------------------------------------- Dependence is Vulnerability: -------------------------------------------------------------- "Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal" "I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.." |
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#7
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[...]
On a related note, I found this: http://www.flashlightmuseum.com I think I'll build me one of those 7-cell beasts one of these days. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/ |
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#8
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"B.B." u wrote in message news A.K.A. Drop Lights. I need one, but all of the ones I've encountered in the stores are absolute crap. On-line catalogs look like they're the same. I'm just looking for one that's not hard (cheap/brittle/uncomfy) plastic on the outside. The "rubberized" orange and yellow ones with wire cages used to be pretty common in the stores years ago, but not any more. Now it's plastic, plastic, plastic. Sometimes halogen bulbs, sometimes florescent bulbs, but always plastic handles. Usually with cheap, ****ty cords to complete the package. McMaster has one with a rubber handle, but it's $lightly expen$ive. Any other places to look? Except ebay--I hate ebay. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/ I have a yellow plastic one with flourescent bulb in it and an automatic reel that I bought at Home Depot many years ago that has been a good one. It always lights, I've never had to replace the bulb. Lane |
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#9
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If you do temporarily settle for one of the plastic ones line the
reflective(?) area behind the bulb with aluminum foil otherwise you can't see nothin' because of the glare through the back of the thing. JohnF On Sun, 07 Aug 2005 02:08:49 -0500, "B.B." u wrote: A.K.A. Drop Lights. I need one, but all of the ones I've encountered in the stores are absolute crap. On-line catalogs look like they're the same. I'm just looking for one that's not hard (cheap/brittle/uncomfy) plastic on the outside. The "rubberized" orange and yellow ones with wire cages used to be pretty common in the stores years ago, but not any more. Now it's plastic, plastic, plastic. Sometimes halogen bulbs, sometimes florescent bulbs, but always plastic handles. Usually with cheap, ****ty cords to complete the package. McMaster has one with a rubber handle, but it's $lightly expen$ive. Any other places to look? Except ebay--I hate ebay. |
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#10
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On Sun, 07 Aug 2005 02:08:49 -0500, "B.B."
u wrote: A.K.A. Drop Lights. I need one, but all of the ones I've encountered in the stores are absolute crap. On-line catalogs look like they're the same. I'm just looking for one that's not hard (cheap/brittle/uncomfy) plastic on the outside. The "rubberized" orange and yellow ones with wire cages used to be pretty common in the stores years ago, but not any more. Now it's plastic, plastic, plastic. Sometimes halogen bulbs, sometimes florescent bulbs, but always plastic handles. Usually with cheap, ****ty cords to complete the package. McMaster has one with a rubber handle, but it's $lightly expen$ive. Any other places to look? Except ebay--I hate ebay. Trouble lights are aptly named: they are nothing but trouble. They're never in the right place, usually in the way, often hot, and the damned bulbs are fragile. I made a head-mounted light using a 1-watt Luxeon LED and a lens diffuser. It's a lousy flashlight for hiking and cave exploration -- but that isn't what I was after. I wanted it to illuminate everything within reach of my hands. It does that very well. The light is very even -- no darkspots or other artifacts. There are no apparent shadows because the light comes from the middle of my forehead. The "bulb" runs cool, and it will never break or burn out. It works well under hoods, underneath cars, under sinks, in machinery and when doing wiring and plumbing with both hands. I used the body from a Harbor Freight head light ($2.95 on sale). Mounted elex, Luxeon, lens and lensholder where the lightbulb and reflector had been. Didn't make any drawings...... |
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#11
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Keywords:
In article , Don Foreman wrote: snip Trouble lights are aptly named: they are nothing but trouble. They're never in the right place, usually in the way, often hot, and the damned bulbs are fragile. I made a head-mounted light using a 1-watt Luxeon LED and a lens diffuser. It's a lousy flashlight for hiking and cave exploration -- but that isn't what I was after. I wanted it to illuminate everything within reach of my hands. It does that very well. The light is very even -- no darkspots or other artifacts. There are no apparent shadows because the light comes from the middle of my forehead. The "bulb" runs cool, and it will never break or burn out. It works well under hoods, underneath cars, under sinks, in machinery and when doing wiring and plumbing with both hands. I used the body from a Harbor Freight head light ($2.95 on sale). Mounted elex, Luxeon, lens and lensholder where the lightbulb and reflector had been. Didn't make any drawings...... I agree, a good headlamp is a wonderful gadget, and makes a trouble light optional for many occasions. The LED approach gives MUCH better battery life. If you don't want to spend your time building one fromn scratch, the best one I've found is the "Streamlight Septor LED Headlamp". Do a search on Froogle, you can get them for ~$28. I still use a trouble light for some things, like working in the attic. The one I have that I like the best is a fluorescent model from Home Depot. The big advantage is that it is cool enough to move around without fear of burns or fires. It has two tubes, so you can select how much light you want. I always run it with both, so I don't consider that a particularly useful option. I'm sure it you drop it from a good height, it's gonna bust, but I try to be a bit more careful that that, and withthe headlight, I can usually set it up out of harms way. Doug White |
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#12
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I agree with the others regarding the LED headlamp. My daughter (11 y.o.)
gave me one for Christmas last year - it's got two white LEDs, or you can switch to a red one so you don't mess up your night vision. I've had a fluorescent drop light for many years, and it served me well. Since getting the headlamp, I rarely use the drop light. It's very handy, small, cool and the light always shines where I'm looking. Great for working on the car, the electrical panel, plumbing under the sink, or whatever. -- Ron DeBlock N2JSO If God had meant for Man to see the sunrise, He would have scheduled it later in the day. |
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#13
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Just Me wrote:
"B.B." u wrote in message news
A.K.A. Drop Lights. I need one, but all of the ones I've encountered in the stores are absolute crap. On-line catalogs look like they're the same. I'm just looking for one that's not hard (cheap/brittle/uncomfy) plastic on the outside. The "rubberized" orange and yellow ones with wire cages used to be pretty common in the stores years ago, but not any more. Now it's plastic, plastic, plastic. Sometimes halogen bulbs, sometimes florescent bulbs, but always plastic handles. Usually with cheap, ****ty cords to complete the package. McMaster has one with a rubber handle, but it's $lightly expen$ive. Any other places to look? Except ebay--I hate ebay. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/ I have a yellow plastic one with flourescent bulb in it and an automatic reel that I bought at Home Depot many years ago that has been a good one. It always lights, I've never had to replace the bulb. Lane I have one like that in the shop - often without a light bulb when it was in the garage-shop - to close to the house - a working bulb is a bird in the hand. Martin -- Martin Eastburn @ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
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#14
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Just Me wrote:
"B.B." u wrote in message news
A.K.A. Drop Lights. I need one, but all of the ones I've encountered in the stores are absolute crap. On-line catalogs look like they're the same. I'm just looking for one that's not hard (cheap/brittle/uncomfy) plastic on the outside. The "rubberized" orange and yellow ones with wire cages used to be pretty common in the stores years ago, but not any more. Now it's plastic, plastic, plastic. Sometimes halogen bulbs, sometimes florescent bulbs, but always plastic handles. Usually with cheap, ****ty cords to complete the package. McMaster has one with a rubber handle, but it's $lightly expen$ive. Any other places to look? Except ebay--I hate ebay. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/ I have a yellow plastic one with flourescent bulb in it and an automatic reel that I bought at Home Depot many years ago that has been a good one. It always lights, I've never had to replace the bulb. Lane One thought on the long lasting bulb - the wire is low gage and likely limits current on the startup surge. That blows the lights. Martin -- Martin Eastburn @ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
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#15
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In article ,
Don Foreman wrote: [...] Trouble lights are aptly named: they are nothing but trouble. They're never in the right place, usually in the way, often hot, and the damned bulbs are fragile. I made a head-mounted light using a 1-watt Luxeon LED and a lens diffuser. It's a lousy flashlight for hiking and cave exploration -- but that isn't what I was after. I wanted it to illuminate everything within reach of my hands. It does that very well. The light is very even -- no darkspots or other artifacts. There are no apparent shadows because the light comes from the middle of my forehead. The "bulb" runs cool, and it will never break or burn out. As to the bulb hotness thing, I've found that the florescent light bulbs with the screw-in base of the incandescent bulbs work well in drop lights and handle shock much better. Extra-messy if it does break, though. I might break down and spend the money on a WoodHead light, but I'm still hunting for the middle-ground non-crap, inexpensive solution. It's probably mostly a personal preference thing, but I hate headlamps. I spend enough time wedging my head into tiny gaps that I'd either block the thing 90% of the time or outright crush it. For me, a drop light is the best solution most of the time. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/ |
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#17
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B.B. wrote:
As to the bulb hotness thing, I've found that the florescent light bulbs with the screw-in base of the incandescent bulbs work well in drop lights and handle shock much better. Extra-messy if it does break, though. I've found that as well. Old wire cage inspection lamp with the black rubber handle. Never could keep a normal bulb working in it for more than a week (you'd put one in and it would be gone next time) but the fluorescent has been in there several years now. Only thing I did different was put a leather washer over the base of the bulb so it was a snug fit into the hole in the handle the socket sits in as we have bayonet bulb bases over here which let the bulb wobble more. Could have used an O ring but the leather washer was handy. Also I cut a shade/reflector out of a coke can and folded it round three of the wires of the cage. Without it, I couldnt see a thing if crawling into a small space pushing the light ahead of me. -- Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED) ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* SPAM TRAP set in header, Use email address in sig. if you must. |
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#18
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On Tue, 09 Aug 2005 09:09:05 +0100, Ian Malcolm
wrote: I've found that as well. Old wire cage inspection lamp with the black rubber handle. Never could keep a normal bulb working in it for more than a week Never put a regular bulb in such a lamp. Buy the more expensive Rough Duty bulbs and they last much much longer. http://www.electerm.com/ldrop.html http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/...lb-685743.aspx http://www.stanley-garage-opener.com/gardooroplig.html Gunner If you are going to use that phrase then you should use the full phrase of "**** Off and Die and Rot In A Ditch and Get Eaten By Maggots and ****ed On and **** On By a Dysenteric Elephant (but not necessarily in that order)." Crash Street Kidd |
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#19
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Gunner wrote:
... Buy the more expensive Rough Duty bulbs and they last much much longer. .... Yes, I've never had one lose a filament. Generally the first time I use one it's under a sink, a drop of water falls on the bulb and it breaks from the thermal shock |8-( Now I use the compact fluorescent. Bob |
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#20
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They have relatively inexpensive LED lights with headbands at WalMart
in the sporting goods section. Run about 50+ hours on 3 AAA batteries. I use then at one shop I do work for that, apparently, doesn't believe in lighting around the machines. JohnF On Mon, 08 Aug 2005 17:19:29 -0500, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 07 Aug 2005 02:08:49 -0500, "B.B." . ru wrote: A.K.A. Drop Lights. I need one, but all of the ones I've encountered in the stores are absolute crap. On-line catalogs look like they're the same. I'm just looking for one that's not hard (cheap/brittle/uncomfy) plastic on the outside. The "rubberized" orange and yellow ones with wire cages used to be pretty common in the stores years ago, but not any more. Now it's plastic, plastic, plastic. Sometimes halogen bulbs, sometimes florescent bulbs, but always plastic handles. Usually with cheap, ****ty cords to complete the package. McMaster has one with a rubber handle, but it's $lightly expen$ive. Any other places to look? Except ebay--I hate ebay. Trouble lights are aptly named: they are nothing but trouble. They're never in the right place, usually in the way, often hot, and the damned bulbs are fragile. I made a head-mounted light using a 1-watt Luxeon LED and a lens diffuser. It's a lousy flashlight for hiking and cave exploration -- but that isn't what I was after. I wanted it to illuminate everything within reach of my hands. It does that very well. The light is very even -- no darkspots or other artifacts. There are no apparent shadows because the light comes from the middle of my forehead. The "bulb" runs cool, and it will never break or burn out. It works well under hoods, underneath cars, under sinks, in machinery and when doing wiring and plumbing with both hands. I used the body from a Harbor Freight head light ($2.95 on sale). Mounted elex, Luxeon, lens and lensholder where the lightbulb and reflector had been. Didn't make any drawings...... |
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#21
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In article ,
Gunner wrote: On Tue, 09 Aug 2005 09:09:05 +0100, Ian Malcolm wrote: I've found that as well. Old wire cage inspection lamp with the black rubber handle. Never could keep a normal bulb working in it for more than a week Never put a regular bulb in such a lamp. Buy the more expensive Rough Duty bulbs and they last much much longer. Not always, however. I was working in a dark corner of the factory I was in -- under the last in a row of trailers for 18-wheel rigs. Where I was there was a connector panel facing down with something like 64 MS series connectors plugged into it. I had to interchange two wires on one specific connector -- solder terminal version, so no pin removal and insertion tools -- just a soldering iron. So -- I was under there, with a trouble light and the soldering iron plugged into the extension running off to somewhere. The soldering iron was warming up, and I was trying to unscrew the ring on the right connector to get it down where I could work on it. The trouble light seemed rather bright, but it was a very dark area, so I just figured it was a matter of relativity -- until the bulb burned out, and I could almost read by the soldering iron. :-) It turns out that the extension was connected to 240VAC, not the 120VAC which the connectors on it would suggest. *No* incandescent trouble light bulb lasts long on double voltage. :-) In case anyone cares -- the company was making "portable" flight simulators for sub-hunting helicopters for the Navy. Three portable ones (six trailer rigs), and one for installation within a building. Really early in the use of minicomputers for this sort of thing, and gazillions of wires in cables connecting the computer and analog stuff to the second trailer which had the cockpit, the instructor's console, and the sonor room from the tail of the 'copter. These days, almost all of that from the first trailer could be squeezed into a PC with a few special interface cards and lots of software. This thing took three phase power fed by 4/0 cables. :-) As for the best trouble light that I ever got -- it is one with a short straight length of power cord, which goes into a lump about 3x3x4", and then turns into a coiled cord until it gets to the trouble light, which is a plastic cylinder, with a fluorescent lamp and a starter inside it, with a slip-on yellow rubber boot at the power cord end, and another one with a hook at the far end. I still have the same lamp in it, and have been using it on and off since about 1976 when I got it. The only switch is the power plug. To that, I've added another fluorescent trouble lamp, with the cord in a spring-loaded reel which mounts on the wall, and a switch under a rubber dome on the end with the hooks (which in this case are made of wire wrapped around a turn and a half and formed into hooks. I don't have as many years of use on that one, but it has been very nice to use when I have needed it. It came from an MSC flyer a few years ago. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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#22
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On Wed, 10 Aug 2005 17:25:28 GMT, JohnF
wrote: They have relatively inexpensive LED lights with headbands at WalMart in the sporting goods section. Run about 50+ hours on 3 AAA batteries. I use then at one shop I do work for that, apparently, doesn't believe in lighting around the machines. JohnF I use an LED head light just bout daily http://www.eveready.com/products/fla...asp?cat=4&id=3 a review http://www.tincher.to/headlamp.htm I LOVE mine Gunner The two highest achievements of the human mind are the twin concepts of "loyalty" and "duty." Whenever these twin concepts fall into disrepute -- get out of there fast! You may possibly save yourself, but it is too late to save that society. It is doomed. " Lazarus Long |
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#23
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On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 08:28:30 GMT, the opaque Gunner
clearly wrote: I use an LED head light just bout daily http://www.eveready.com/products/fla...asp?cat=4&id=3 That looks like the $12.99 special (odd name) at Bi-Mart. I like the red LED idea to retain your night vision. a review http://www.tincher.to/headlamp.htm I LOVE mine What'd you pay/where? The one listed at Wally World's website is $16.68 and has krypton and 2 LEDs, no red. http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=2618826 -- ------------------------------------------------------- Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects. ---- http://diversify.com Dynamic Website Applications |
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#24
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On Wed, 10 Aug 2005 17:25:28 GMT, JohnF
wrote: They have relatively inexpensive LED lights with headbands at WalMart in the sporting goods section. Run about 50+ hours on 3 AAA batteries. I use then at one shop I do work for that, apparently, doesn't believe in lighting around the machines. JohnF Those are better than no light, but two LED's don't produce much light and 3 AAA's are kinda heavy and bulky for a head-mounted light. Best feature is low price. I think the "ideal" head light would use a single Luxeon and a single lithium 123 cell -- which costs about the same as three alky AAA's if you buy them a dozen at a time from Surefire. It would be adjustable in power from 2-LED dim (for max battery life) to full brightness which is about 10X that for when you really need some serious light. Battery life at WOT would vary from about 6 hours at WOT to about 60 hours in "glimmer" mode which would still be brighter than the 2-LED jobs when their batteries are fresh. Brightness would be constant (as set) throughout battery life. Battery weight would be half that of 3 AAA's, bulk would be somewhat less than 3 AAAs. The same basic 3-volt light could also run from 2 AAA's (different package design) if universal battery availability were a concern. Battery life would be about the same, perhaps slightly less. AFAIK, nobody makes a light like this -- yet. Consumers seem to buy price, often without regard to performance. If I worked under hoods or in other dark places every day, I'd surely have built one like this by now. There are Luxeon-based head lights, but they're not dimmable, they have too concentrated a "spot" for close task use, and I know of none that use a single 123 cell. I'm still working on the elex for such a light. COSMOS has very good 3-volt elex in their single-123 luxeon flashlights, but I don't know how they work. I used Terralux TLE-5 elex in the 3-volt head lights I made for myself and Fitch, but I changed the Luxeons from side-shooter to Lambertian for close task flood illumination. They work well, but they're not dimmable. They would run off a single 123, presently run off a pair of AA's because that's what fit in the HF package I used. |
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#25
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On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 06:59:46 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 08:28:30 GMT, the opaque Gunner clearly wrote: I use an LED head light just bout daily http://www.eveready.com/products/fla...asp?cat=4&id=3 That looks like the $12.99 special (odd name) at Bi-Mart. I like the red LED idea to retain your night vision. a review http://www.tincher.to/headlamp.htm I LOVE mine What'd you pay/where? The one listed at Wally World's website is $16.68 and has krypton and 2 LEDs, no red. http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=2618826 IRRC I got it at Big 5. Gunner The two highest achievements of the human mind are the twin concepts of "loyalty" and "duty." Whenever these twin concepts fall into disrepute -- get out of there fast! You may possibly save yourself, but it is too late to save that society. It is doomed. " Lazarus Long |
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#26
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On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 11:54:28 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote: Those are better than no light, but two LED's don't produce much light and 3 AAA's are kinda heavy and bulky for a head-mounted light. Best feature is low price. The unit I linked provides MONDO light, both in its white and red modes. Gunner The two highest achievements of the human mind are the twin concepts of "loyalty" and "duty." Whenever these twin concepts fall into disrepute -- get out of there fast! You may possibly save yourself, but it is too late to save that society. It is doomed. " Lazarus Long |
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#27
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On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 17:37:00 GMT, Gunner
wrote: On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 11:54:28 -0500, Don Foreman wrote: Those are better than no light, but two LED's don't produce much light and 3 AAA's are kinda heavy and bulky for a head-mounted light. Best feature is low price. The unit I linked provides MONDO light, both in its white and red modes. MONDO apparently converts to 5.6 candela. http://tinyurl.com/dejbp A 1-watt Luxeon light with a beamwidth of 30 degrees included angle produces about 210 candela at rated power -- about 37.5 MONDO. It would produce 1 MONDO running at about 2.5% of rated output. |
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#28
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On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 17:36:09 GMT, the opaque Gunner
clearly wrote: On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 06:59:46 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: What'd you pay/where? The one listed at Wally World's website is $16.68 and has krypton and 2 LEDs, no red. http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=2618826 IRRC I got it at Big 5. I just stopped there today to pick up a $15 tactical light. BRIGHT (62 lumen) Krypton bulb, aluminum case, tactical switch, variable focus, 110 minutes on a pair of CR123A lithiums. Ouch! $10 for a pair of those batteries at Wally World. I found the little HF headlamps on sale about 5 years ago and just picked up a couple more of them when they went on 2/$5 sale last spring. They work fine for most stuff (in the attic, under the truck, under the sink, finding the faucet to turn off the sprinkler hose in the dark.) The AA batts in those last a good long while and are a lot cheaper, but now I have a good tactical which I can keep with the P-11. Hmmm, www.lara.com has CR123As for $1.58 each. That's better. $18.95 per dozen + $4.95 s/h for a grand total of about $2 each. Check out their 9v battery-topper LED flashlights. Pricy but cool. - Inside every older person is a younger person wondering WTF happened. --- http://diversify.com Website Application Programming |
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#29
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On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 18:32:52 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 17:36:09 GMT, the opaque Gunner clearly wrote: On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 06:59:46 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: What'd you pay/where? The one listed at Wally World's website is $16.68 and has krypton and 2 LEDs, no red. http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=2618826 IRRC I got it at Big 5. I just stopped there today to pick up a $15 tactical light. BRIGHT (62 lumen) Krypton bulb, aluminum case, tactical switch, variable focus, 110 minutes on a pair of CR123A lithiums. Ouch! $10 for a pair of those batteries at Wally World. I found the little HF headlamps on sale about 5 years ago and just picked up a couple more of them when they went on 2/$5 sale last spring. They work fine for most stuff (in the attic, under the truck, under the sink, finding the faucet to turn off the sprinkler hose in the dark.) The AA batts in those last a good long while and are a lot cheaper, but now I have a good tactical which I can keep with the P-11. Hmmm, www.lara.com has CR123As for $1.58 each. That's better. $18.95 per dozen + $4.95 s/h for a grand total of about $2 each. Check out their 9v battery-topper LED flashlights. Pricy but cool. Those same batteries are available from Surefire for $15/doz + $4.99 S&H. - Inside every older person is a younger person wondering WTF happened. --- http://diversify.com Website Application Programming |
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#30
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On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 18:32:52 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: CR123A http://search.ebay.com/CR123A_W0QQsojsZ1QQfromZR40 Gunner The two highest achievements of the human mind are the twin concepts of "loyalty" and "duty." Whenever these twin concepts fall into disrepute -- get out of there fast! You may possibly save yourself, but it is too late to save that society. It is doomed. " Lazarus Long |
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On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 18:17:41 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote: On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 17:37:00 GMT, Gunner wrote: On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 11:54:28 -0500, Don Foreman wrote: Those are better than no light, but two LED's don't produce much light and 3 AAA's are kinda heavy and bulky for a head-mounted light. Best feature is low price. The unit I linked provides MONDO light, both in its white and red modes. MONDO apparently converts to 5.6 candela. http://tinyurl.com/dejbp A 1-watt Luxeon light with a beamwidth of 30 degrees included angle produces about 210 candela at rated power -- about 37.5 MONDO. It would produce 1 MONDO running at about 2.5% of rated output. Mondo means I could back up a flat bed truck and trailer with a backhoe on it 1/2 mile out of a dead end canyon on a moonless night after the lighting system failed. Shrug. Thats good enough for me. Gunner The two highest achievements of the human mind are the twin concepts of "loyalty" and "duty." Whenever these twin concepts fall into disrepute -- get out of there fast! You may possibly save yourself, but it is too late to save that society. It is doomed. " Lazarus Long |
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#32
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On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 21:48:36 -0500, the opaque Don Foreman
clearly wrote: On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 18:32:52 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: Hmmm, www.lara.com has CR123As for $1.58 each. That's better. $18.95 per dozen + $4.95 s/h for a grand total of about $2 each. Check out their 9v battery-topper LED flashlights. Pricy but cool. Those same batteries are available from Surefire for $15/doz + $4.99 S&H. Excellent. Thanks, Don. I picked up several white LEDs and haven't yet experimented with them. I suppose Lithiums would be a good power source for those, too. - Inside every older person is a younger person wondering WTF happened. --- http://diversify.com Website Application Programming |
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On Fri, 12 Aug 2005 06:39:27 GMT, the opaque Gunner
clearly wrote: On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 18:32:52 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: CR123A http://search.ebay.com/CR123A_W0QQsojsZ1QQfromZR40 Shipping from Hong Kong isn't cheap. $0.01 + $11.99 s/h for batteries or $0.02 + £8.00 for the light. The batteries are a good deal if they're quality products, but this review shows them at the bottom of the list! http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubb...?Number=772562 The 7 brands clustered there must be from one manufacturer or technique, and the Sanyos kick ass! I think I'll go with the SureFires, 4x the lifetime and only $19.99/doz delivered from a U.S. source. - Inside every older person is a younger person wondering WTF happened. --- http://diversify.com Website Application Programming |
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#34
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On Fri, 12 Aug 2005 06:42:09 GMT, Gunner
wrote: The unit I linked provides MONDO light, both in its white and red modes. MONDO apparently converts to 5.6 candela. http://tinyurl.com/dejbp A 1-watt Luxeon light with a beamwidth of 30 degrees included angle produces about 210 candela at rated power -- about 37.5 MONDO. It would produce 1 MONDO running at about 2.5% of rated output. Mondo means I could back up a flat bed truck and trailer with a backhoe on it 1/2 mile out of a dead end canyon on a moonless night after the lighting system failed. Shrug. Thats good enough for me. Golly! Using mirrors? |
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On Fri, 12 Aug 2005 10:11:45 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote: On Fri, 12 Aug 2005 06:42:09 GMT, Gunner wrote: The unit I linked provides MONDO light, both in its white and red modes. MONDO apparently converts to 5.6 candela. http://tinyurl.com/dejbp A 1-watt Luxeon light with a beamwidth of 30 degrees included angle produces about 210 candela at rated power -- about 37.5 MONDO. It would produce 1 MONDO running at about 2.5% of rated output. Mondo means I could back up a flat bed truck and trailer with a backhoe on it 1/2 mile out of a dead end canyon on a moonless night after the lighting system failed. Shrug. Thats good enough for me. Golly! Using mirrors? Ayup. I put that head band on the backhoe as the backup light. Gunner The two highest achievements of the human mind are the twin concepts of "loyalty" and "duty." Whenever these twin concepts fall into disrepute -- get out of there fast! You may possibly save yourself, but it is too late to save that society. It is doomed. " Lazarus Long |
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On Fri, 12 Aug 2005 04:45:39 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 21:48:36 -0500, the opaque Don Foreman clearly wrote: On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 18:32:52 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: Excellent. Thanks, Don. I picked up several white LEDs and haven't yet experimented with them. I suppose Lithiums would be a good power source for those, too. Yes. You'll need a dropping resistor (or elex) to limit LED current. A nice thing about lithiums is that their voltage doesn't droop over life nearly as much as alkies do. Alkies go from 1.5 to 0.8 volts per cell. CR123's go from 3 volts to 2.5 volts at about 90% depeleted, to 2 volts in the last 10% of life. White LED's typically run somewhere around 3.4 volts, so you'll need two 123's. They'll then droop from 6 volts new to about 5 volts nearly gone. Resistor voltage (hence current) goes from 2.6 to 1.47, a change of about 38%. WIth 3 alkies, voltage goes from 4.5 volts to 2.4 volts -- but the light goes dark at 3.4 volts (1.13 volts per cell) so you discard batteries that are only a bit over 1/2 depleted when the light has diminished from full brightness to no brightness during that time. That's how some flashlight mfrs get their lifetime claims with alkies. They may produce light for xx hours, but it will be significantly less than half output for most of those xx hours. With 3 AAA's (and resistor current limiting) you're down to half output (and half drain) at 1.31 volts per cell which is only about 25% depleted, down to 25% when the batteries are about 39% depleted, and so on. White LED's (other than Luxeons and a couple of others) are typically rated to run at somewhere between 20 mA and 50 mA. Overdriving them just shortens their life, which may be acceptable. They'll still last much longer than incandescant bulbs. If you want to run several LED's, each should ideally have its own dropping resistor for operation from a 6-volt source or less. Some flashlights just rely on the internal resistance of alkie cells -- so lithiums may overdrive the hell out of them. For 2 CR123's and 50mA per LED, a 51ohm resistor is about right. For 100 mA per LED, about 27 ohms is about right. There's a ****-simple elex circuit (about 3 bux worth of parts) that can supply dead flat current (constant brightness) over battery lifetime -- and it could drive several LED's in parallel if they were fairly well-matched in forward voltage drop. Email me for details if interested. It's also on the web somewhere. Check out one of those 3W luxeon lights to go with your P-11. A 3-watt Luxeon puts out about 60 lumens, comparable to your tactical krypton light -- and the bulb won't ever burn out. Some Krypton bulbs last about 10 hours -- the bulb, not the batteries! Have fun! |
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#37
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On Fri, 12 Aug 2005 11:06:21 -0500, Don Foreman wrote:
Check out one of those 3W luxeon lights to go with your P-11. A 3-watt Luxeon puts out about 60 lumens, comparable to your tactical krypton light -- and the bulb won't ever burn out. Sharper Image have a LED light with a claimed 82 lumen output. I saw it today while browsing around the mall (back-to-school shopping time). Looks like a single LED. It is SERIOUSLY bright - don't shine it in your eyes! I was blind in one eye for a few minutes.... -- Ron DeBlock N2JSO If God had meant for Man to see the sunrise, He would have scheduled it later in the day. |
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