This is a somewhat older model all metal construction bandsaw where the
blade tracks on 3 instead of just 2 main guide wheels giving the over all
housing a triangular configuration and a deeper throat.

Does anybody here own or have any experience with this model and can you
tell me what you think of it pro or con?

I have the opportunity to pick one up for reasonable money but I'm
wondering about the "non standard" 3 wheel configuration.

Thanks for any insight,

Dennis van Dam

PS

Oh yeah, obligatory metal content, I'm going to be cutting aluminium with it.

This is a somewhat older model all metal construction bandsaw where the
blade tracks on 3 instead of just 2 main guide wheels giving the over all
housing a triangular configuration and a deeper throat.

I think the determining factor is the diameter of the wheels. I believe
that some three wheelers used very small wheels so the blade flexed
a lot and were prone to break. I could be wrong though.

The only other factor would be the blade length and if blades are
available in that length.

chuck

In article ,
(Chuck Sherwood) wrote:

This is a somewhat older model all metal construction bandsaw where the
blade tracks on 3 instead of just 2 main guide wheels giving the over all
housing a triangular configuration and a deeper throat.

I think the determining factor is the diameter of the wheels. I believe
that some three wheelers used very small wheels so the blade flexed
a lot and were prone to break. I could be wrong though.

The only other factor would be the blade length and if blades are
available in that length.

chuck


Thanks Chuck.

The wheels are definately smaller than typical so your description may be
an apt consideration.

The blade length factor already occured to me. I've downloaded the parts
list and the owners manual from Delta (a good sign that these are still
available) and the one piece of info not found in either is blade
length. If I have to have blades made up it wouldn't be worth it even if
the saw was free.

Thanks for the reply.

Dennis

I would not touch a 3 wheeler like this. The problem is alignment - it
is a bitch.

Chuck Sherwood wrote:
This is a somewhat older model all metal construction bandsaw where the
blade tracks on 3 instead of just 2 main guide wheels giving the over all
housing a triangular configuration and a deeper throat.

I think the determining factor is the diameter of the wheels. I believe
that some three wheelers used very small wheels so the blade flexed
a lot and were prone to break. I could be wrong though.

The only other factor would be the blade length and if blades are
available in that length.

chuck

In article
, Dennis
van Dam wrote:

In article ,
(Chuck Sherwood) wrote:

This is a somewhat older model all metal construction bandsaw where the
blade tracks on 3 instead of just 2 main guide wheels giving the over all
housing a triangular configuration and a deeper throat.

I think the determining factor is the diameter of the wheels. I believe
that some three wheelers used very small wheels so the blade flexed
a lot and were prone to break. I could be wrong though.

The only other factor would be the blade length and if blades are
available in that length.

chuck


Thanks Chuck.

The wheels are definately smaller than typical so your description may be
an apt consideration.

The blade length factor already occured to me. I've downloaded the parts
list and the owners manual from Delta (a good sign that these are still
available) and the one piece of info not found in either is blade
length. If I have to have blades made up it wouldn't be worth it even if
the saw was free.

Why? I routinely get blades made up. The cost is trivial. In fact I
have a blade welder on my big bandsaw but would still get blades made
to length, it's simpler. Find a local supplier and ask how much they'll
charge to make blades, you may well find they're cheaper than buying
the same thing off the shelf.

PDW

On 26 Jul 2005 23:00:14 -0700, wrote:

I would not touch a 3 wheeler like this. The problem is alignment - it
is a bitch.

You think thats bad..Ive got a stubbie Jet, with 6..yes 6 wheels in
it.

If its not throwing a blade..its busting one. And they are a *******
size too.

Thanks be for the Emerson...

Gunner


Chuck Sherwood wrote:
This is a somewhat older model all metal construction bandsaw where the
blade tracks on 3 instead of just 2 main guide wheels giving the over all
housing a triangular configuration and a deeper throat.

I think the determining factor is the diameter of the wheels. I believe
that some three wheelers used very small wheels so the blade flexed
a lot and were prone to break. I could be wrong though.

The only other factor would be the blade length and if blades are
available in that length.

chuck


"This device is provided without warranty of any kind as to reliability,
accuracy, existence or otherwise or fitness for any particular purpose
and Bioalchemic Products specifically does not warrant, guarantee,
imply or make any representations as to its merchantability for any
particular purpose and furthermore shall have no liability for or
responsibility to you or any other person, entity or deity with respect
to any loss or damage whatsoever caused by this device or object or by
any attempts to destroy it by hammering it against a wall or dropping it
into a deep well or any other means whatsoever and moreover asserts
that you indicate your acceptance of this agreement or any other
agreement that may he substituted at any time by coming within
five miles of the product or observing it through large telescopes or
by any other means because you are such an easily cowed moron
who will happily accept arrogant and unilateral conditions on a piece
of highly priced garbage that you would not dream of accepting on a
bag of dog biscuits and is used solely at your own risk.'

(Chuck Sherwood) wrote:

The only other factor would be the blade length and if blades are
available in that length.


Dennis
van Dam wrote:


The blade length factor already occured to me. I've downloaded the parts
list and the owners manual from Delta (a good sign that these are still
available) and the one piece of info not found in either is blade
length. If I have to have blades made up it wouldn't be worth it even if
the saw was free.



Peter Wiley wrote:

Why? I routinely get blades made up. The cost is trivial. In fact I
have a blade welder on my big bandsaw but would still get blades made
to length, it's simpler. Find a local supplier and ask how much they'll
charge to make blades, you may well find they're cheaper than buying
the same thing off the shelf.

PDW


I guess, without giving it too much thought, I just assumed having blades
made up would be significantly more expensive. Glad to hear this is not
neccesarily the case and I'll check locally to see what the deal is.

The other consideration with made up blades (and this one was definately
at the forefront when I made the statement) is finding yourself
desperately in need of a replacement on a Friday at 4:45pm (or anytime on
Sat or Sun) and not being able to run down to Lowes/HD for a spare.
True, this is nothing a bit of planning ahead couldn't prevent but we all
know how that goes come 4:45PM Friday.

Peter, thanks for the reply.

Dennis

wrote:

I would not touch a 3 wheeler like this. The problem is alignment - it
is a bitch.

Now_there's_a parameter that had not occured to me at all! Now that you
bring it to my attention, I can see what a pecker it would be if one idler
wheel was trying to track the blade the outside and the next was trying to
track it to the inside. Or even if both idlers where tracking the blade
to run off the edge(s) the same way figuring which idler to adust is going
to be more trial and error than typical.

Checking the downloaded PDF manual for this saw I'm noticing only one of
the idler wheels (lower aft) has tracking adjustment. The other (top)
idler never gets out of adjustment? I can see how this might be a
problem.

Thanks for the heads up on this.

The band saw was available on a "Buy it Now" only eBay auction for $75.
It needs a $24 drive belt and it was going to be a 3 hour trip one way to
pick it up so I was already waffling. I think I'll give it a miss.

Thanks to all for the helpful replies.

Dennis van Dam

In article
, Dennis
van Dam wrote:


(Chuck Sherwood) wrote:

The only other factor would be the blade length and if blades are
available in that length.


Dennis
van Dam wrote:


The blade length factor already occured to me. I've downloaded the parts
list and the owners manual from Delta (a good sign that these are still
available) and the one piece of info not found in either is blade
length. If I have to have blades made up it wouldn't be worth it even if
the saw was free.



Peter Wiley wrote:

Why? I routinely get blades made up. The cost is trivial. In fact I
have a blade welder on my big bandsaw but would still get blades made
to length, it's simpler. Find a local supplier and ask how much they'll
charge to make blades, you may well find they're cheaper than buying
the same thing off the shelf.

PDW


I guess, without giving it too much thought, I just assumed having blades
made up would be significantly more expensive. Glad to hear this is not
neccesarily the case and I'll check locally to see what the deal is.

The other consideration with made up blades (and this one was definately
at the forefront when I made the statement) is finding yourself
desperately in need of a replacement on a Friday at 4:45pm (or anytime on
Sat or Sun) and not being able to run down to Lowes/HD for a spare.
True, this is nothing a bit of planning ahead couldn't prevent but we all
know how that goes come 4:45PM Friday.

Peter, thanks for the reply.

The point about the 3 wheeler being a PITA to keep tracking correctly
is, I think, a good one. Never had the pleasure of finding out myself,
but I can believe it.

My cheapo 4x6 H/V metalcutting bandsaw works ok and I keep a few extra
blades about for it because the flexing of the blades makes their
working life pretty short, IMO. The other trick is, it's not difficult
to silver solder bandsaw blades to length. You grind tapers on both
ends, overlap in a simple jig and silver solder together. Home Shop
Machinist has had a number of articles on how to do this over the
years. It's a useful thing to know if you break the one & only band you
have at 4:45 Friday :-)

PDW

In article ,
Peter Wiley wrote:
In article
, Dennis
van Dam wrote:

[ ... ]

The other consideration with made up blades (and this one was definately
at the forefront when I made the statement) is finding yourself
desperately in need of a replacement on a Friday at 4:45pm (or anytime on
Sat or Sun) and not being able to run down to Lowes/HD for a spare.
True, this is nothing a bit of planning ahead couldn't prevent but we all
know how that goes come 4:45PM Friday.

So -- does the bandsaw in question have a built-in blade welder?
If so, just stocking some roll form blades would suffice. That's what I
do.

The point about the 3 wheeler being a PITA to keep tracking correctly
is, I think, a good one. Never had the pleasure of finding out myself,
but I can believe it.

It depends. If the wheels have crowned rubber tires, it should
not be a significant problem.

My cheapo 4x6 H/V metalcutting bandsaw works ok and I keep a few extra

And if your experience is with this, I can understand the
concern with tracking, as the 4x6 does *not* have crowned rubber tires
-- it is all machined cast iron, with a flange to set the back edge of a
single width blade (1/2") -- no others need apply.

I've got an old Emco 3-wheel bandsaw, with rubber tires (on
fiberglass-epoxy wheels, I think), and have no problems with tracking.
It is not an all-metal bandsaw, however, but rather has a mix of metal
panels and chassis, with molded plastic end pieces.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article ,
Dennis van Dam wrote:
wrote:

I would not touch a 3 wheeler like this. The problem is alignment - it
is a bitch.

Now_there's_a parameter that had not occured to me at all! Now that you
bring it to my attention, I can see what a pecker it would be if one idler
wheel was trying to track the blade the outside and the next was trying to
track it to the inside. Or even if both idlers where tracking the blade
to run off the edge(s) the same way figuring which idler to adust is going
to be more trial and error than typical.

Checking the downloaded PDF manual for this saw I'm noticing only one of
the idler wheels (lower aft) has tracking adjustment. The other (top)
idler never gets out of adjustment? I can see how this might be a
problem.

If the wheels are crowned (with rubber tires), this is not
normally a problem two-wheeled or three wheeled.

[ ... ]

The band saw was available on a "Buy it Now" only eBay auction for $75.
It needs a $24 drive belt and it was going to be a 3 hour trip one way to
pick it up so I was already waffling. I think I'll give it a miss.

Hmm ... that sounds like a nice price -- depending on the
construction.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 29 Jul 2005 19:09:17 -0400, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:

In article ,
Peter Wiley wrote:
In article
, Dennis
van Dam wrote:

[ ... ]

The other consideration with made up blades (and this one was definately
at the forefront when I made the statement) is finding yourself
desperately in need of a replacement on a Friday at 4:45pm (or anytime on
Sat or Sun) and not being able to run down to Lowes/HD for a spare.
True, this is nothing a bit of planning ahead couldn't prevent but we all
know how that goes come 4:45PM Friday.

So -- does the bandsaw in question have a built-in blade welder?
If so, just stocking some roll form blades would suffice. That's what I
do.

The point about the 3 wheeler being a PITA to keep tracking correctly
is, I think, a good one. Never had the pleasure of finding out myself,
but I can believe it.

It depends. If the wheels have crowned rubber tires, it should
not be a significant problem.

My cheapo 4x6 H/V metalcutting bandsaw works ok and I keep a few extra

And if your experience is with this, I can understand the
concern with tracking, as the 4x6 does *not* have crowned rubber tires
-- it is all machined cast iron, with a flange to set the back edge of a
single width blade (1/2") -- no others need apply.

I've got an old Emco 3-wheel bandsaw, with rubber tires (on
fiberglass-epoxy wheels, I think), and have no problems with tracking.
It is not an all-metal bandsaw, however, but rather has a mix of metal
panels and chassis, with molded plastic end pieces.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Installed a band saw for a customer..finished it today after 16+ hours
of labor. I needed a 10ton jack, two cable come-alongs and pry bars to
line up the table with the saw itself. Actually cuts pretty square,
to small thousands. Course it does have a 2" wide blade...... the
blade that is on it has a 1 tooth......

G

Gunner

Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends
of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

In article ,
Peter Wiley wrote:
In article , DoN. Nichols
wrote:

[ ... ]

I've got an old Emco 3-wheel bandsaw, with rubber tires (on
fiberglass-epoxy wheels, I think), and have no problems with tracking.
It is not an all-metal bandsaw, however, but rather has a mix of metal
panels and chassis, with molded plastic end pieces.

Well, I've always been favourably impressed with Emco stuff. My Maximat
11 lathe is a gem.

As is my little Compact-5/CNC. The matching (but not CNC) mill
(made by combining the milling attachment which bolts to the back of the
ways for the Compact-5 with a much heavier X/Y table is pretty nice,
too, but the spindle speed can't be cranked down low enough for some
operations, and I had to design and build an A-frame bracket to hold the
top end of the column from vibrating on heavier cuts.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article , DoN. Nichols
wrote:

In article ,
Peter Wiley wrote:
In article
, Dennis
van Dam wrote:

[ ... ]

The other consideration with made up blades (and this one was definately
at the forefront when I made the statement) is finding yourself
desperately in need of a replacement on a Friday at 4:45pm (or anytime on
Sat or Sun) and not being able to run down to Lowes/HD for a spare.
True, this is nothing a bit of planning ahead couldn't prevent but we all
know how that goes come 4:45PM Friday.

So -- does the bandsaw in question have a built-in blade welder?
If so, just stocking some roll form blades would suffice. That's what I
do.

The point about the 3 wheeler being a PITA to keep tracking correctly
is, I think, a good one. Never had the pleasure of finding out myself,
but I can believe it.

It depends. If the wheels have crowned rubber tires, it should
not be a significant problem.

My cheapo 4x6 H/V metalcutting bandsaw works ok and I keep a few extra

And if your experience is with this, I can understand the
concern with tracking, as the 4x6 does *not* have crowned rubber tires
-- it is all machined cast iron, with a flange to set the back edge of a
single width blade (1/2") -- no others need apply.

I have 3 bandsaws. A 12" 2 wheel woodcutting machine, the generic 4x6
metalcutting one and a 18" wood/metalcutting 2 wheel machine with blade
welder that weighs close to 500 kg. Never owned a 3 wheel machine so
while I can in theory see why they might be more finicky, it'd depend
on construction.

I've got an old Emco 3-wheel bandsaw, with rubber tires (on
fiberglass-epoxy wheels, I think), and have no problems with tracking.
It is not an all-metal bandsaw, however, but rather has a mix of metal
panels and chassis, with molded plastic end pieces.

Well, I've always been favourably impressed with Emco stuff. My Maximat
11 lathe is a gem.

PDW

On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 18:40:45 GMT, (Dennis van
Dam) wrote:

This is a somewhat older model all metal construction bandsaw where the
blade tracks on 3 instead of just 2 main guide wheels giving the over all
housing a triangular configuration and a deeper throat.

Does anybody here own or have any experience with this model and can you
tell me what you think of it pro or con?

I have the opportunity to pick one up for reasonable money but I'm
wondering about the "non standard" 3 wheel configuration.

Thanks for any insight,

Dennis van Dam

PS

Oh yeah, obligatory metal content, I'm going to be cutting aluminium with it.

Three-wheel is not good for metal cutting. The three-wheel frames
are not generally rigid enough to track well with any significant
blade tension or loading. I have a very old Craftsman (50 yrs old)
cast iron frame three-wheeler that was a good bandsaw for wood but
wasn't up to the demands of metal with a speed reducer. The blades
just wouldn't stay on it when I pushed metal thru it.

I now have a Wilton 8201 that I've found very satisfactory for both
wood and metal. Speed range of 39 to 3000 SFPM, 14" throat. It has
*never* thrown a blade. Delta made a saw like this; the Wilton is
probably a knockoff. Made in Taiwan but it works OK.

Re blades: a saw shop will make blades for about what they cost
readymade -- and they'll be better blades made with Sandvik or Do-All
bladestock. The shop I use wants orders of 3 or more at a time,
costs me a bit over $30 per visit and he wants a day or two advance
notice. The three blades in a min order don't all have to be the
same pitch. His welds are perfect; no "bump" when they go thru the
saw, and the teeth even line up.