I have been thinking about buying a Taig lathe for making small pins
and related parts. I have larger lathes but it seems like they are
always tied up when I need to make a small part. So, I was wondering
how well these lathes work and if they are comparable to larger lathes
if scale is taken into effect.
Thanks,
Eric R Snow

On Thu, 07 Jul 2005 11:43:52 -0700, the opaque Eric R Snow
clearly wrote:

I have been thinking about buying a Taig lathe for making small pins
and related parts. I have larger lathes but it seems like they are
always tied up when I need to make a small part. So, I was wondering
how well these lathes work and if they are comparable to larger lathes
if scale is taken into effect.

Eric, I'll bet if you stated your required precision level (0.010mm or
0.0001"), people who own or have worked with Taigs could give you a
better answer. I doubt they're as precise as a watchmaker's lathe.

Whatcha makin'?


-
Press HERE to arm. (Release to detonate.)
-----------
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming

On Thu, 07 Jul 2005 14:39:34 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 07 Jul 2005 11:43:52 -0700, the opaque Eric R Snow
clearly wrote:

I have been thinking about buying a Taig lathe for making small pins
and related parts. I have larger lathes but it seems like they are
always tied up when I need to make a small part. So, I was wondering
how well these lathes work and if they are comparable to larger lathes
if scale is taken into effect.

Eric, I'll bet if you stated your required precision level (0.010mm or
0.0001"), people who own or have worked with Taigs could give you a
better answer. I doubt they're as precise as a watchmaker's lathe.

Whatcha makin'?

Just the odd small pin, or turning down the head on a screw. If I need
to go to tenths the part can be polished. But to be practical it needs
to be able to remove .0005 reliably. I have a Levin watchmakers lathe.
But it is meant for smaller stuff. Like the platinum-iridium alloy
tubes I jad to make. .024 OD, .008 ID. The collets go down to .004.
ERS
-
Press HERE to arm. (Release to detonate.)
-----------
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming

On Thu, 07 Jul 2005 11:43:52 -0700, Eric R Snow
wrote:

I have been thinking about buying a Taig lathe for making small pins
and related parts. I have larger lathes but it seems like they are
always tied up when I need to make a small part. So, I was wondering
how well these lathes work and if they are comparable to larger lathes
if scale is taken into effect.
Thanks,
Eric R Snow
I got the Unimat 3 before the SB 9A but enjoy having both.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Eric,

I won a taig, and have access to larger lathes... and know other people
with larger lathes, and unimats.
The concensus seems to be that if you can afford the space and money,
the second smaller lathe has distinct advantages... basically the
smaller lathe is easy to run, cheaper consumables, and more suited to
the task. My taig is more than adequate for the work I do, and I have
only had to go to the larger lathe when I've had issues with swing
siamters, or power.. I like the idea of changing chucks with only one
hand, instead of a crane.

I hope that helps,
Des Bromilow

Eric R Snow wrote:
I have been thinking about buying a Taig lathe for making small pins
and related parts. I have larger lathes but it seems like they are
always tied up when I need to make a small part. So, I was wondering
how well these lathes work and if they are comparable to larger lathes
if scale is taken into effect.
Thanks,
Eric R Snow

Eric,

I own a taig, and have access to larger lathes... and know other people
with larger lathes, and unimats.
The concensus seems to be that if you can afford the space and money,
the second smaller lathe has distinct advantages... basically the
smaller lathe is easy to run, cheaper consumables, and more suited to
the task. My taig is more than adequate for the work I do, and I have
only had to go to the larger lathe when I've had issues with swing
siamters, or power.. I like the idea of changing chucks with only one
hand, instead of a crane.

I hope that helps,
Des Bromilow

Eric R Snow wrote:
I have been thinking about buying a Taig lathe for making small pins
and related parts. I have larger lathes but it seems like they are
always tied up when I need to make a small part. So, I was wondering
how well these lathes work and if they are comparable to larger lathes
if scale is taken into effect.
Thanks,
Eric R Snow

In article ,
Eric R Snow wrote:
I have been thinking about buying a Taig lathe for making small pins
and related parts. I have larger lathes but it seems like they are
always tied up when I need to make a small part. So, I was wondering
how well these lathes work and if they are comparable to larger lathes
if scale is taken into effect.

I've got one, and like it for small work. Note that the
standard collets for it are not particularly impressive, so I am glad
that I also bought the watchmaker's spindle for it when I got it (some
years ago at a hamfest, and without the "Taig" label on it anywhere --
before I had even *heard* of "Taig". :-)

I already had the watchmaker's collets, as I also use them in
the watchmaker's spindle for the Unimat SL-1000. Note that one
difference between the two spindles is that the Unimat one also has the
tapered exterior surface to open the expanding stepped collets for
holding inside of rings, while the Taig one has a threaded exterior
which matches the thread for the normal spindle to accept chucks and
faceplates.

I've actually set up both of them recently to handle different
stages of a recent project. The first (and most complex) stage was
handled on the Emco-Maier Compact-5/CNC

On the Unimat, if you want to turn tapers, you can simply swing
the headstock to the appropriate angle. On the Taig, your choices a

1) Turn between centers with an offset tailstock.

2) Mount the compound and use it (if the needed taper is short
enough.

3) Make a taper attachment for the lathe. (Perhaps someone has
already done this -- I don't know.


But I do find it to be quite a rigid lathe for its size and
price. The Unimat SL-1000 is probably the worst for that, with a bed
consisting of two steel rods of not particularly large diameter.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 7 Jul 2005 23:55:28 -0400, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:

In article ,
Eric R Snow wrote:
I have been thinking about buying a Taig lathe for making small pins
and related parts. I have larger lathes but it seems like they are
always tied up when I need to make a small part. So, I was wondering
how well these lathes work and if they are comparable to larger lathes
if scale is taken into effect.

I've got one, and like it for small work. Note that the
standard collets for it are not particularly impressive, so I am glad
that I also bought the watchmaker's spindle for it when I got it (some
years ago at a hamfest, and without the "Taig" label on it anywhere --
before I had even *heard* of "Taig". :-)

I already had the watchmaker's collets, as I also use them in
the watchmaker's spindle for the Unimat SL-1000. Note that one
difference between the two spindles is that the Unimat one also has the
tapered exterior surface to open the expanding stepped collets for
holding inside of rings, while the Taig one has a threaded exterior
which matches the thread for the normal spindle to accept chucks and
faceplates.

I've actually set up both of them recently to handle different
stages of a recent project. The first (and most complex) stage was
handled on the Emco-Maier Compact-5/CNC

On the Unimat, if you want to turn tapers, you can simply swing
the headstock to the appropriate angle. On the Taig, your choices a

1) Turn between centers with an offset tailstock.

2) Mount the compound and use it (if the needed taper is short
enough.

3) Make a taper attachment for the lathe. (Perhaps someone has
already done this -- I don't know.


But I do find it to be quite a rigid lathe for its size and
price. The Unimat SL-1000 is probably the worst for that, with a bed
consisting of two steel rods of not particularly large diameter.

Enjoy,
DoN.
Thanks for the reply DoN. I know a guy with a Unimat. I used it and it
was pretty flexible. As to collets, the collets for my Levin are not
the same as the ones the Taig watchmakers spindle uses. That's too bad
because then I'd already have 80 collets for the machine. I've looked
at the collets on the Taig web site. They don't have a large selection
but seem to stout enough. What in particular did you not like about
their collets? As to tapers, most of the tapers I do on small pins
would be short enough for the compound. I did think about a taper
attachment. Maybe there's a market for some.
Eric

In article ,
Eric R Snow wrote:
On 7 Jul 2005 23:55:28 -0400, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:

[ ... Taig ... ]

I've got one, and like it for small work. Note that the
standard collets for it are not particularly impressive, so I am glad
that I also bought the watchmaker's spindle for it when I got it (some
years ago at a hamfest, and without the "Taig" label on it anywhere --
before I had even *heard* of "Taig". :-)

I already had the watchmaker's collets, as I also use them in
the watchmaker's spindle for the Unimat SL-1000. Note that one
difference between the two spindles is that the Unimat one also has the
tapered exterior surface to open the expanding stepped collets for
holding inside of rings, while the Taig one has a threaded exterior
which matches the thread for the normal spindle to accept chucks and
faceplates.

[ ... ]


[ ... ]

Thanks for the reply DoN. I know a guy with a Unimat. I used it and it
was pretty flexible. As to collets, the collets for my Levin are not
the same as the ones the Taig watchmakers spindle uses.

They should be -- WW series collets. I think that the Levin
ones may have slightly different thread form for the drawbar, but the
rest is the same. I've got some old Levin collets in addition to the
ones which I got for my Unimat SL-1000 watchmaker's spindle, and those
work well in the Taig watchmaker's spindle.

That's too bad
because then I'd already have 80 collets for the machine. I've looked
at the collets on the Taig web site. They don't have a large selection
but seem to stout enough. What in particular did you not like about
their collets?

They did not have a drawbar, just a nut which shoved them into
the normal lathe spindle. They are not hardened, but just made from
mild steel. They come only in a very few sizes, plus one which has
never been drilled so you can make your own in a specific size. (After
which, you would need to set up the slitting saw to slit them so they
can close.) They don't have the range of the ER collets, nor the
self-extracting groove to engage a lip on the closer nut, so they have
to be driven out from the other end of the spindle. All in all, they
were nothing but a minimal excuse for collets.

Now -- remember that this machine, while it *looks* like a Taig,
never had the "Taig" nameplate on it (though I have gotten a second of
the Taig 4-jaw chucks, after modifying the original to use on my
Compact-5/CNC, and it looks identical to what I have.)

It may be that the official collets which Taig now offers are
better than what I have.

It may also be that the watchmaker's collet spindle is no longer
offered.

As to tapers, most of the tapers I do on small pins
would be short enough for the compound. I did think about a taper
attachment. Maybe there's a market for some.

O.K.

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 8 Jul 2005 21:40:11 -0400, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:


Now -- remember that this machine, while it *looks* like a Taig,
never had the "Taig" nameplate on it (though I have gotten a second of
the Taig 4-jaw chucks, after modifying the original to use on my
Compact-5/CNC, and it looks identical to what I have.)

It may be that the official collets which Taig now offers are
better than what I have.
Nope those are the Taig collets, they are a compromise between price
and precision. (Taig is now making an ER-16 spindle for the mills, but
it won't accept 3/4"-16 tooling....)

The WW spindle option is still offered. If the drawbar doesn't work
for a particular collet then one can just make a replacement (given
how well tooled everyone in this discussion is...)

The Taig is more rigid than the old unimat SL, that's for sure.
If you have a Levin I wouldn't bother with a Taig unless you want
another lathe - you can do much more on the Levin (but there is a bit
of a price difference).

I have several bigger lathes but the Taig shines for certain work
because:
1) tooling is cheap and modifiable
2) Top speed is 5000 rpm, which is great for small parts
3) soft jaw 3 jaw chuck is great for certain operations
4) If I need to do something destructive (like grinding) on it,
replacement parts are cheap.

The Taig has shortcomings though:
1) No way to do single point threading (aftermarket accessories
partially answer this)
2) Lowest speed is 500 rpm, which is too fast for some work
3) Not a lot of space
4) Not as wide a range of accessories as other lathes.

But I am the #1 crazy Taig guy, if you haven't, check out my Taig
pages:
www.cartertools.com



On Fri, 08 Jul 2005 07:24:03 -0700, Eric R Snow
wrote:

Thanks for the reply DoN. I know a guy with a Unimat. I used it and it
was pretty flexible. As to collets, the collets for my Levin are not
the same as the ones the Taig watchmakers spindle uses. That's too bad
because then I'd already have 80 collets for the machine. I've looked
at the collets on the Taig web site. They don't have a large selection
but seem to stout enough. What in particular did you not like about
their collets? As to tapers, most of the tapers I do on small pins
would be short enough for the compound. I did think about a taper
attachment. Maybe there's a market for some.
Eric

On 8 Jul 2005 21:40:11 -0400, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:

In article ,
Eric R Snow wrote:
On 7 Jul 2005 23:55:28 -0400, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:

[ ... Taig ... ]

I've got one, and like it for small work. Note that the
standard collets for it are not particularly impressive, so I am glad
that I also bought the watchmaker's spindle for it when I got it (some
years ago at a hamfest, and without the "Taig" label on it anywhere --
before I had even *heard* of "Taig". :-)

I already had the watchmaker's collets, as I also use them in
the watchmaker's spindle for the Unimat SL-1000. Note that one
difference between the two spindles is that the Unimat one also has the
tapered exterior surface to open the expanding stepped collets for
holding inside of rings, while the Taig one has a threaded exterior
which matches the thread for the normal spindle to accept chucks and
faceplates.

[ ... ]


[ ... ]

Thanks for the reply DoN. I know a guy with a Unimat. I used it and it
was pretty flexible. As to collets, the collets for my Levin are not
the same as the ones the Taig watchmakers spindle uses.

They should be -- WW series collets. I think that the Levin
ones may have slightly different thread form for the drawbar, but the
rest is the same. I've got some old Levin collets in addition to the
ones which I got for my Unimat SL-1000 watchmaker's spindle, and those
work well in the Taig watchmaker's spindle.

That's too bad
because then I'd already have 80 collets for the machine. I've looked
at the collets on the Taig web site. They don't have a large selection
but seem to stout enough. What in particular did you not like about
their collets?

They did not have a drawbar, just a nut which shoved them into
the normal lathe spindle. They are not hardened, but just made from
mild steel. They come only in a very few sizes, plus one which has
never been drilled so you can make your own in a specific size. (After
which, you would need to set up the slitting saw to slit them so they
can close.) They don't have the range of the ER collets, nor the
self-extracting groove to engage a lip on the closer nut, so they have
to be driven out from the other end of the spindle. All in all, they
were nothing but a minimal excuse for collets.

Now -- remember that this machine, while it *looks* like a Taig,
never had the "Taig" nameplate on it (though I have gotten a second of
the Taig 4-jaw chucks, after modifying the original to use on my
Compact-5/CNC, and it looks identical to what I have.)

It may be that the official collets which Taig now offers are
better than what I have.

It may also be that the watchmaker's collet spindle is no longer
offered.

As to tapers, most of the tapers I do on small pins
would be short enough for the compound. I did think about a taper
attachment. Maybe there's a market for some.

O.K.

Enjoy,
DoN.
The collets for the Levin are "D" collets. I'll look up the specs if I
can find them and see if they have the same taper. I don't think they
do though. The "D" collets only go up to 5/16" (8mm). Don't the WW
collets have a larger capacity?
Eric

On Sat, 09 Jul 2005 09:42:46 -0700, Felice Luftschein and Nicholas
Carter wrote:

The Taig is more rigid than the old unimat SL, that's for sure.
If you have a Levin I wouldn't bother with a Taig unless you want
another lathe - you can do much more on the Levin (but there is a bit
of a price difference).

I have several bigger lathes but the Taig shines for certain work
because:
1) tooling is cheap and modifiable
2) Top speed is 5000 rpm, which is great for small parts
3) soft jaw 3 jaw chuck is great for certain operations
4) If I need to do something destructive (like grinding) on it,
replacement parts are cheap.

The Taig has shortcomings though:
1) No way to do single point threading (aftermarket accessories
partially answer this)
2) Lowest speed is 500 rpm, which is too fast for some work
3) Not a lot of space
4) Not as wide a range of accessories as other lathes.

But I am the #1 crazy Taig guy, if you haven't, check out my Taig
pages:
www.cartertools.com


Nicholas,
Thank for the reply. I'll look at your site. Finding someone with lots
of experience with one of these machines is just what I'm lookin
for.The Levin I have is quite small. A very good machine but limited
in travel. The cross slide is clamped to the bed wherever it needs to
be to do the machining. The cross slide has a compound that can be
turned 90 degrees for turning straight parts. There is no longitudinal
lead screw. So threading on this lathe can't be done either. Since
I'll be using a DC motor with a variable speed control the speeds
won't be a limitation. And the top speed rating of the spindle is way
higher than 5000 rpm according to the Taig web site. Which is one of
the reasons for considering it.
Eric

On Fri, 08 Jul 2005 07:24:03 -0700, Eric R Snow
wrote:

Thanks for the reply DoN. I know a guy with a Unimat. I used it and it
was pretty flexible. As to collets, the collets for my Levin are not
the same as the ones the Taig watchmakers spindle uses. That's too bad
because then I'd already have 80 collets for the machine. I've looked
at the collets on the Taig web site. They don't have a large selection
but seem to stout enough. What in particular did you not like about
their collets? As to tapers, most of the tapers I do on small pins
would be short enough for the compound. I did think about a taper
attachment. Maybe there's a market for some.
Eric

Yeah, with the stock pulley setup the top speed is 5K rpm, but it is
rated for a top speed for 7k rpm. If you ask nicely when you order
they can put the bearings they use on the CNC mill in the headstock
and then you would be good to 10K rpm. You can't run any of the chucks
at those speeds though...that would be scary.

On Sat, 09 Jul 2005 10:15:04 -0700, Eric R Snow
wrote:

And the top speed rating of the spindle is way
higher than 5000 rpm according to the Taig web site. Which is one of
the reasons for considering it.
Eric

On Sat, 09 Jul 2005 14:38:30 -0700, Felice Luftschein and Nicholas
Carter wrote:

Yeah, with the stock pulley setup the top speed is 5K rpm, but it is
rated for a top speed for 7k rpm. If you ask nicely when you order
they can put the bearings they use on the CNC mill in the headstock
and then you would be good to 10K rpm. You can't run any of the chucks
at those speeds though...that would be scary.

On Sat, 09 Jul 2005 10:15:04 -0700, Eric R Snow
wrote:

And the top speed rating of the spindle is way
higher than 5000 rpm according to the Taig web site. Which is one of
the reasons for considering it.
Eric
Nicholas,
I sent you an e-mail to you with a list of items. Can you also supply
the better bearings?
cheers,
Eric R Snow

In article ,
Eric R Snow wrote:
On 8 Jul 2005 21:40:11 -0400, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:

In article ,
Eric R Snow wrote:

[ ... ]

Thanks for the reply DoN. I know a guy with a Unimat. I used it and it
was pretty flexible. As to collets, the collets for my Levin are not
the same as the ones the Taig watchmakers spindle uses.

They should be -- WW series collets. I think that the Levin
ones may have slightly different thread form for the drawbar, but the
rest is the same. I've got some old Levin collets in addition to the
ones which I got for my Unimat SL-1000 watchmaker's spindle, and those
work well in the Taig watchmaker's spindle.

[ ... ]

It may also be that the watchmaker's collet spindle is no longer
offered.

We've now heard that they are still available.

The collets for the Levin are "D" collets. I'll look up the specs if I
can find them and see if they have the same taper. I don't think they
do though.

Oh -- those are 10mm collets, not the 8mm that the WW series
are. Levin also made 8mm (WW) collets as well, and that is what I
thought that we were talking about. The watchmaker's spindle for both
the Taig and for the Unimat SL-1000 are for the "WW" (8mm) collets.

The "D" collets only go up to 5/16" (8mm). Don't the WW
collets have a larger capacity?

Nope -- smaller. The WW collets (8mm OD) have only a 1/4"
capacity. The 'D' series collets ('D' for Derbyshire, I think) have an
OD of 10mm. I've got a set of those, too. I've been planning on making
a drawbar and closer for those for my Compact-5/CNC.

No chance of them working directly in the same spindle, though I
could imagine an adaptor to allow a "WW" (8mm) collet to be used in a
'D' (10mm) spindle. I just can't imagine why anyone would make one,
unless they could not get the 10mm collets at all.

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 10 Jul 2005 00:26:16 -0400, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:

In article ,
Eric R Snow wrote:
On 8 Jul 2005 21:40:11 -0400, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:

In article ,
Eric R Snow wrote:

[ ... ]

Thanks for the reply DoN. I know a guy with a Unimat. I used it and it
was pretty flexible. As to collets, the collets for my Levin are not
the same as the ones the Taig watchmakers spindle uses.

They should be -- WW series collets. I think that the Levin
ones may have slightly different thread form for the drawbar, but the
rest is the same. I've got some old Levin collets in addition to the
ones which I got for my Unimat SL-1000 watchmaker's spindle, and those
work well in the Taig watchmaker's spindle.

[ ... ]

It may also be that the watchmaker's collet spindle is no longer
offered.

We've now heard that they are still available.

The collets for the Levin are "D" collets. I'll look up the specs if I
can find them and see if they have the same taper. I don't think they
do though.

Oh -- those are 10mm collets, not the 8mm that the WW series
are. Levin also made 8mm (WW) collets as well, and that is what I
thought that we were talking about. The watchmaker's spindle for both
the Taig and for the Unimat SL-1000 are for the "WW" (8mm) collets.

The "D" collets only go up to 5/16" (8mm). Don't the WW
collets have a larger capacity?

Nope -- smaller. The WW collets (8mm OD) have only a 1/4"
capacity. The 'D' series collets ('D' for Derbyshire, I think) have an
OD of 10mm. I've got a set of those, too. I've been planning on making
a drawbar and closer for those for my Compact-5/CNC.

No chance of them working directly in the same spindle, though I
could imagine an adaptor to allow a "WW" (8mm) collet to be used in a
'D' (10mm) spindle. I just can't imagine why anyone would make one,
unless they could not get the 10mm collets at all.

Enjoy,
DoN.
Thanks Don,
I looked on the web and found the specs for WW and D collets. You are
correct, the D style stands for Derbyshire. BTW, Derbyshire is still
in business and sells D style collets that are every bit as good as
the Levin collets for less than half of the Levin price.
ERS

Gerald Miller wrote:
On Thu, 07 Jul 2005 11:43:52 -0700, Eric R Snow
wrote:


I have been thinking about buying a Taig lathe for making small pins
and related parts. I have larger lathes but it seems like they are
always tied up when I need to make a small part. So, I was wondering
how well these lathes work and if they are comparable to larger lathes
if scale is taken into effect.
Thanks,
Eric R Snow

I got the Unimat 3 before the SB 9A but enjoy having both.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
I have an old round-way Unimat SL and a Logan 10" lathe. I still find
the Unimat useful for really small items where the Logan wound be
clumsy. Also, the Unimat is upstairs in my model shop, while the Logan
is in the basement. The choice of tool is sometimes determined by how
lazy I am at the moment.

Small lathes like the Unimat and Taig are in no way as rigid as a larger
machine. Still, the accuracy they can produce is more a matter of
operator skill than machine properties. The Unimat is about as minimal
as they can get and still be useful, but it can and has produced many
fine small parts.

I'm most of the way through rebuilding a worn-out Levin (about 4")
instrument maker's lathe (rather like an oversize Watchmaker's lathe).
That will stay in the basement shop with the Logan. It's only a little
larger than the Unimat, but vastly more rigid and precise. Even when
it's completed, however, I'll keep the Unimat upstairs where it's often
handy. It's stood the test of time.

Dan Mitchell
============

On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 09:23:31 -0400, "Daniel A. Mitchell"
wrote:

Gerald Miller wrote:
On Thu, 07 Jul 2005 11:43:52 -0700, Eric R Snow
wrote:


I have been thinking about buying a Taig lathe for making small pins
and related parts. I have larger lathes but it seems like they are
always tied up when I need to make a small part. So, I was wondering
how well these lathes work and if they are comparable to larger lathes
if scale is taken into effect.
Thanks,
Eric R Snow

I got the Unimat 3 before the SB 9A but enjoy having both.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
I have an old round-way Unimat SL and a Logan 10" lathe. I still find
the Unimat useful for really small items where the Logan wound be
clumsy. Also, the Unimat is upstairs in my model shop, while the Logan
is in the basement. The choice of tool is sometimes determined by how
lazy I am at the moment.

Small lathes like the Unimat and Taig are in no way as rigid as a larger
machine. Still, the accuracy they can produce is more a matter of
operator skill than machine properties. The Unimat is about as minimal
as they can get and still be useful, but it can and has produced many
fine small parts.

I'm most of the way through rebuilding a worn-out Levin (about 4")
instrument maker's lathe (rather like an oversize Watchmaker's lathe).
That will stay in the basement shop with the Logan. It's only a little
larger than the Unimat, but vastly more rigid and precise. Even when
it's completed, however, I'll keep the Unimat upstairs where it's often
handy. It's stood the test of time.

Dan Mitchell
============
Thanks for the reply Dan. The Taig lathe apparently has the aluminum
body of the lathe filled with cement. Then steel ways are screwed to
this cement filled extrusion. I imagine this really helps with the
rigidity. Of course I don't expect the lathe to be as rigid as my
Levin lathe or a 14 inch swing lathe. What I was mostly interested in
was how well the small lathe could make small, fairly precise parts.
It seems that the Taig will do just that. With the high speed bearings
(7000 rpm) installed getting enough surface speed will be no problem.
I've sent off a check to Nicholas Carter who is a Taig dealer and has
tons of stuff on his web site about Taig machines.
Eric R Snow

I have been thinking about buying a Taig lathe for making small pins
and related parts. I have larger lathes but it seems like they are
always tied up when I need to make a small part. So, I was wondering
how well these lathes work and if they are comparable to larger lathes
if scale is taken into effect.
Thanks,

I started with a sherline lathe. I have since owned many lathes but
I still own my sherline. I don't use the sherline lathe much but there
are times I find it useful. However I still use my sherline mill a lot
even though I have 2 other mills. I discussed this with sherline guys at NAMES
and he stated that may people tell him they still use their sherline
machines even though they have bigger machines.

chuck